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ben27111973
05-09-2009, 04:30 PM
Hi Guys

Been searching for some technical answers around the DEX410

What are the piston hole sizes in the kit?

what is the internal drive ratio?

Adam Skelding
05-09-2009, 08:03 PM
Both pistons are 1.2mm holes (Just 3 hole and 2 hole).

Internal ratio: 2.47:1

samd
06-09-2009, 06:40 AM
Do you know the spring rates against the part numbers Adam?

Arn0
06-09-2009, 11:45 AM
Do you know the spring rates against the part numbers Adam?
You can get them here (http://www.petitrc.com/setup/durango/setupdex410/DEX410_SpringChart.html)

Alex H
13-09-2009, 02:02 PM
Are the shock their own or is it actually some other brand?

Adam Skelding
14-09-2009, 07:09 AM
Are the shock their own or is it actually some other brand?

The shocks are Durango's own brand, they are not made by anyone else.

Alex H
14-09-2009, 08:16 AM
Okey, thanks. How do they hold their oil?:). Tired of leaking shocks. Guess they are just as good as the rest of the car.

jimmy
14-09-2009, 08:18 AM
They hold the oil fine if you threadlock the screws that hold the pistons on :blush::thumbsup::blush:

GRIFF55
14-09-2009, 08:33 AM
ha ha:lol:, mine seem to be leak free too and it stuck some big landings yesterday:thumbsup:

woodey
17-09-2009, 08:02 AM
I had the first run of mine last night, indoors on a polished wooden floor. And after a couple of tweeks got a car I could really attack with.

I did notice the slipper adjustment nut was rubbing on the battery strap, and had actually worn a groove round it. On closer inspection I worked out that the peice of foam supplied to put between the Lipo's was pushing the packs too far apart. This was actually pushing the front retaining strap up, due to the chamfer where it meets the top of the pack.

The solution was to remove the foam and replace it with a smaller peice but between the front lipo and the front retaining strap. Essentially the lipos butt together and are pushed towards the back of the car. I was using the Demon 4200's.

I am also using 0.7mm shims on the rear suspension to provide free movement.

maxoo
17-09-2009, 12:38 PM
Personally I added some washers:

http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/8196/01mm.jpg

http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/7198/04mmm.jpg

GRIFF55
17-09-2009, 01:11 PM
I can see why on the steering maxoo, but why on the rear shafts?? Even at full droop mine haven't popped out.(YET)ha ha
Have you done the sexy massami shell yet???:drool:

DCM
17-09-2009, 01:16 PM
possibly to remove end float, on the shaft, Andy?

maxoo
17-09-2009, 02:36 PM
I can see why on the steering maxoo, but why on the rear shafts?? Even at full droop mine haven't popped out.(YET)ha ha
Have you done the sexy massami shell yet???:drool:

I added rear shims, because if I didn't use these, the "WHEEL CONE REAR" moved a lot, the axle is a little too long :confused:

Of course a "sexy Masami body shell" !!! :thumbsup:

Alex H
17-09-2009, 08:17 PM
Anybody considering useing GHEA pistons in the dampers?

jimmy
17-09-2009, 08:25 PM
I considered it and even screwed them onto the shaft during the review to see if they would fit. I didn't try them though so I'm not sure if they work or not.

maxoo
17-09-2009, 08:28 PM
I did this:

I'm not sure for the Durango Front light red, because I didn't found the value so I putted "~".

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/2517/durangolosiasso.jpg

ben27111973
20-09-2009, 06:46 AM
Ran the car all day today at st ives.

Sensational.

Michael and I both hoped it would be within 0.5 Sec of our laps from the club series meet a few weeks ago. We defined that as success.

Ran a couple of practice packs, changed front shock oil and played around with the diffs with 3 different setups f/r.

Result was the car was 0.5 sec faster than the fastest lap at the club series round. It was able to do 24.5 as the best time with high 24's consistenly. It puts the power down so well - in fact so well it is hard on the tyres.

There is defintely merit of the mechanical grip generated by the drivetrain.

Car is more stable in high speed sweepers than the B44 and as forgiving.

My biggest problem is trying to keep the motor cool. First 3 runs were at 180deg... got it down to 158deg in the last two runs but it is still too hot.

Only other issue seems to be the bearings expelling a lot of grease and the car got a lot noiser thorughout the day which seemed to be the bearings squeaking.

I also changed the spur for an associated 87 and had no issues - its a lot quieter than the std one.

Only other tip is to put threadlock on the screw that holds the rear outdrive on the slipper assembly. It does not tell you too in the manual and it came out for all the durango drives today. I picked it up in practice and with a drop of threadlock its fine.

The shock boots are great and the cvd boots work well too.

Car is a weapon.

samd
20-09-2009, 07:06 AM
Had the same problems myself, lots of grease coming out of the bearings - but i assume they are packed and the transmission came more free as the day went on, and the gearbox noise became smoother. My other problem wasnt keeping the motor cool it was my tekin rs pro getting too hot and cutting out. Running a x12 5.5 with a 20t pinion 50%timing, motor temps about 150/160 and speedo cutting out at 4/5 mins. I had it mounted with the solder posts facing the motor so i hope a little pocket of hot air was keeping the posts hot and overheating the speedo, ive moved it around now so fingers crossed today.
Ben, what diff oils did you try and how did the car change - i have just gone with 6000front and 3000rear not tried anything else yet.
Car just wants to be hammered - impressive - bit faster then my yokomo with yok set up bang on and durango just chucked on track not set up at all

c0sie
20-09-2009, 07:08 AM
Which diff oil setups did you try fella, and how did each of then perform?

Also, what surface are you running on?

telboy
20-09-2009, 08:09 PM
Today at Broxtowe F345's I ran with 10,000f and 7,000r. But we think that it could do with being harder.

Heating wise, no problems here. Was a hot day too and the motor and speedo came of fine. We've drilled holes in the shell where the scoops are above the motor and speedo, and we've had no problems.

I threadlocked the grub as a rule from the D4/Cyber as they do tend to work loose. So not had any probs there.

Was really impressed by the car as a whole, and the way it handle is just awesome. My talent ran out after R1 today so didn't give it the showing that it should have had. But I can't wait to get some more running in with it.:thumbsup:

jimmy
20-09-2009, 08:20 PM
Did someone already mention this? Craig Collinson had the 1 degree hubs on his car today - but seemed to have LESS toe-in. It seems the L1 should be on the right hand side of the car to add 1 degree (to make 4). If it's on the left it reduces the toe angle to 2 degrees, and viceversa for the R1 hub.

ben27111973
21-09-2009, 11:35 AM
st ives has a clay surface with med grip - starting to get a good blue groove on it.

I tried

20k/10k
10k/10k
5k/1k

All worked well, 10k/10k was probably the best, the 1k in the rear was a little light as the track has so much grip. will be trying 10k/5k next time out

GRIFF55
21-09-2009, 12:34 PM
how are you guys cleaning the old weight oils out for quick diff oil changes??
motor cleaner or something?

c0sie
21-09-2009, 12:39 PM
For what its worth, back in my rallycross days we just used to kitchen towel all the oil out. Any that remains after a good attacking with the 'Bounty' isnt going to effect the diff once you put new oil in, and brake cleaner will adversely affect the o-rings inside the diff anyways.

Just out of interest, is there any form of gasket/big o-ring sealing the diff gears to the diff?

Rebelrc
21-09-2009, 03:59 PM
how much heavier are the diffs? than a standard ball diff

telboy
21-09-2009, 06:59 PM
To be honest I've not weighed them. But the car as a whole didn't feel any heavier than a pred. So the whole car is pretty spot on with any other car weight wise.
Duration was fine anyway, only taking 2400-2600 out of my Lipo's.

Diff oil is cleaned out using kitchen towel, as Cosie said. :)

Diesel
21-09-2009, 07:38 PM
A ball diff of same length is 38g.
A Durango diff is 50g.

Here in pics : http://www.mini-zone.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=54707#p54707

Alex H
25-09-2009, 08:02 AM
Just a small question. I am the one and only owner of a Durango so far in Sweden and don't have anybody else's car to compare to. It is more noisy than other 4wds, right? Because of the metal gears. Just that I don't start searching for things that are actually normal for this sweet sweet ride.

GRIFF55
25-09-2009, 08:34 AM
Yes, it whines a bit!! mine is getting quieter as it is run, and more free:thumbsup:

telboy
25-09-2009, 07:10 PM
I found that a lot of the noise was the stones etc hitting the alloy chassis.
Actually made more noise that the car itself. :)

sime46
25-09-2009, 08:51 PM
Mine whines like a rally car with its straight cut gearbox. Its music. I LOVE it. WhAT A car. :thumbsup:

ben27111973
25-09-2009, 11:14 PM
Just a small question. I am the one and only owner of a Durango so far in Sweden and don't have anybody else's car to compare to. It is more noisy than other 4wds, right? Because of the metal gears. Just that I don't start searching for things that are actually normal for this sweet sweet ride.

yes it is a bit louder but it does not seem to be the metal gears. I installed an AE 87t spur on sunday and it halved the noise. Like the CAT the spur is where the noise is coming from.

Grab an AE spur and ream it out to 7.9mm and you will be pleased with the lower dB