it just gets better!

[telboy]

Well, just to say that the more I run this car, the better it gets!

After running it at batley today (where Durango's took the top 4 places ;) ) it really is getting better the more we fiddle around with them.

Top work everyone. :)

[GRIFF55]

what fiddling tel?

[bondy]

Brill for the first time out ! :thumbsup:

Thanks to mr Collinson ( I think) for the setup advice ! It was really good in the final on what is a very bumpy track. If it goes as good on the smooth stuff then ill be very very happy. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Oh and piping Adam over the line HEHEHEH :p

[kjuliussen]

Brill for the first time out ! :thumbsup:

Thanks to mr Collinson ( I think) for the setup advice ! It was really good in the final on what is a very bumpy track. If it goes as good on the smooth stuff then ill be very very happy. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Oh and piping Adam over the line HEHEHEH :p

What kind of setup did you guys end up with on the bumpy track?
I raced mine for the first time today and i was struggeling with the car in the bumpy sections.

[geerno]

Are many people making use of the weight set?

[Hulk]

Theres a few of things you can do to make it better over the bumps.

First off you want to Drill the rear 3 hole pistons to 1.3mm or even 1.4mm if its a really bumpy track. Also drill the front 2 hole pistons to 1.3mm. I ran this set up yesterday at Batley Buggy Club with 30w in the rear and 40w in the front, the car was excellent through the rough sections of the track.

Another thing me and Adam played around with yesterday was anti-squat. We went from running 3 degree to 2 degree and this made a big difference! Instantly you could put the hammer down through the rough sections of the track without the rear end bouncing. Fastest lap times were almost half a second quicker then the previous round using 3 degree.

Also adding the brass weights to the rear will keep the car even more settled and putting your rear camber links on the very bottom hole on the shock tower. Doing this will make the car recover better if it starts getting out of shape.

Hope this helps! :thumbsup:

Craig Collinson

[mark christopher]

craig, wat settings would you recomend or suggest as a starting point for worksop indoors?

[Hulk]

Really not sure yet Mark.

Personally ill be starting with my outdoor set up and working from there. Not run the car indoors yet so its a bit of an unknown.

Ill put my outdoor set up on the team durango web site before the Workspo series so you can use this as a starting point. Ill get it fine tuned on the day and put my finishing set up on the web site also.

If you need any help when your there just come over and give me a shout. :thumbsup:

Cheers

[njc11]

First off you want to Drill the rear 3 hole pistons to 1.3mm or even 1.4mm if its a really bumpy track. Also drill the front 2 hole pistons to 1.3mm. I ran this set up yesterday at Batley Buggy Club with 30w in the rear and 40w in the front, the car was excellent through the rough sections of the track.


Gave my car a quick go yesterday..

This is exactly where i started.. i've been messing around with pistons and oil to try and get the feel right before its first venture out.. first run felt good.. second run all i did was move the upper rear shock position to the middle hole on the tower (it was on the inside) this stopped the back end from kicking up on one particular area of the track.. The front im inside on tower and outside wisbone..

The car was plenty quick enough, X12 6.5 (20 tooth pinion) with 4200 35c Lipos.. and was extremely quiet, which was a bonus comapared to other duranos ive heard :thumbsup:

The day ended though as the grub screw worked loose that holds the rear cvd to the out drive of the rear gearbox.. this buggered up the casing and the part the casing locates on to which is part of the hinged lipo holder.. im sure i threadlocked as i made a point of doing all where needed.. i checked the front gearbox also and this grub screw was loose and you could see threadlock on it... going to have to keep an eye on this.. anyone else had this?

Cheers

Nick

[Hulk]

Hi Nick,

The way to sort this is to make sure the grub screw is on the flat bit of the pin. Make sure you use plenty of thread lock and put a second grub screw on the opposite side.

If you really need to then put some heat shrink around the CVD to cover the pin.

Craig

[geerno]

Gave my car a quick go yesterday..

This is exactly where i started.. i've been messing around with pistons and oil to try and get the feel right before its first venture out.. first run felt good.. second run all i did was move the upper rear shock position to the middle hole on the tower (it was on the inside) this stopped the back end from kicking up on one particular area of the track.. The front im inside on tower and outside wisbone..

The car was plenty quick enough, X12 6.5 (20 tooth pinion) with 4200 35c Lipos.. and was extremely quiet, which was a bonus comapared to other duranos ive heard :thumbsup:

The day ended though as the grub screw worked loose that holds the rear cvd to the out drive of the rear gearbox.. this buggered up the casing and the part the casing locates on to which is part of the hinged lipo holder.. im sure i threadlocked as i made a point of doing all where needed.. i checked the front gearbox also and this grub screw was loose and you could see threadlock on it... going to have to keep an eye on this.. anyone else had this?

Cheers

Nick

What were the differences in lap times with each of the changes?

Also, I have ad no issues with screws coming loose. I used the pacer blue thread lock on anything that screwed into metal.

[njc11]

Hi Nick,

The way to sort this is to make sure the grub screw is on the flat bit of the pin. Make sure you use plenty of thread lock and put a second grub screw on the opposite side.

If you really need to then put some heat shrink around the CVD to cover the pin.

Craig

Craig,

That bit is all sorted its this grub screw..

http://www.cls.eclipse.co.uk/RCCars/Propgrubscrewpic1.jpg

Geerno.. I used the car in practice first thing in the morning then before the finals.. so i wasnt timed. The car felt good, this was the first time Ive run the car.. so for actuall racing i was running my Lazer FS.

Cheers

Nick
:thumbsup:

[Hulk]

Sorry Nick my mistake.

never had a problem with this working loose, again just make sure you use plenty of thread lock.

[njc11]

Sorry Nick my mistake.

never had a problem with this working loose, again just make sure you use plenty of thread lock.

No probs mate...

Ive put loads on the front one and when my parts arrive for the rear one that will be getting a fair amount on to lol.. i'll be keeping an eye on them though..

Cheers again by the way for the lead at Kiddy BRC's :thumbsup:

Cheers

Nick

[kjuliussen]

Ok. will test that next time. Thanks.. :thumbsup:

But what diff setup did you run?

i guess changes to diff oil will matter if you run on bumpy or smooth track. Im thinking thinner oil for bumpy and thicker as the track gets smoother.

[bondy]

Double up on all grub screws driveshafts & cvds etc remember to use the 3*3 mm ones too long and it catches. I have also heat shrinked my main shaft cvd's and i will also be doing the driveshafts after i have visited halfords for a heatshrink kit !

[Hulk]

In terms of diff oils I was using 7,000 in the rear and 12,500 in the front. Im not an expert with diff oils yet but generally if its a high grip track you want to be using heavier oils to produce more drive and visa versa on lower grip tracks.

I wouldnt change oils because of how bumpy the track is, thats more about suspension changes, anti-squat, camber link positions ect.

We will be experimenting with different diff oils throughout the winter and will keep you guys posted as to what does what, so you have a clear understanding of how to set your diffs depending on what surface your racing on.

[JohnM]

Craig, how did you get 2 degrees of anti squat at the rear? the book only shows 0 or 3 degrees.

[carlin]

Double up on all grub screws driveshafts & cvds etc remember to use the 3*3 mm ones too long and it catches. I have also heat shrinked my main shaft cvd's and i will also be doing the driveshafts after i have visited halfords for a heatshrink kit !

Bondy,

What heatshrink is everyone using to cover the CVD's etc just wasnt sure

[mark christopher]

i use some from maplins cheap for loads of it

[carlin]

i use some from maplins cheap for loads of it

Thanks Mark, what size do we need sorry not sure thats all

[mark christopher]

think mine is bout 12mm diameter, measure the cvd diameter

[mw02veg]

Found this place on eBay, any colour any size, not bad prices too.

http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Heatshrink-online__W0QQ_armrsZ1

[mark christopher]

Found this place on eBay, any colour any size, not bad prices too.

http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Heatshrink-online__W0QQ_armrsZ1

:thumbsup:good site

12.7 mm is the one

[JohnM]

Another thing me and Adam played around with yesterday was anti-squat. We went from running 3 degree to 2 degree and this made a big difference! Instantly you could put the hammer down through the rough sections of the track without the rear end bouncing. Fastest lap times were almost half a second quicker then the previous round using 3 degree.

Craig Collinson

How did you get the 2 degrees of anti-squat Craig? My track is pretty bumpy, car takes it pretty bloody wel at the mo, but another half second or so would be nice:thumbsup:

[mark christopher]

Craig, how did you get 2 degrees of anti squat at the rear? the book only shows 0 or 3 degrees.

How did you get the 2 degrees of anti-squat Craig? My track is pretty bumpy, car takes it pretty bloody wel at the mo, but another half second or so would be nice:thumbsup:
im guessing here but id say by adding a 1mm spacer under the front 2+ block to make it +3, giving 2 anti squat?

[JohnM]

Is there room under the block for a spacer? At work at the mo, so don't have the car in front of me.

[carlin]

Hi Guys,

thanks for the heat shrink.

Just one question do you know what size may need for 1/8th Rallycross?
For centre drive shafts etc was thinking it would be 25.4mm???

Any ideas anyone i know it's abit off the topic just think of getting some for 1/8th too

[MALLET]

What car you running Rob is it the AE I think you'll need 18mm so it shrinks to 16mm

[carlin]

What car you running Rob is it the AE I think you'll need 18mm so it shrinks to 16mm

No I've left Associated now buddy.

I'm now running Kyosho MP9, they are little but bigger the CVD's

[JohnM]

Is the 2 degrees of rear anti-squat a secret mod? its been three days since Craig first mentioned it, and still no one has said how to get it:confused:

Also, has anyone tried running without the droop screws in the rear for more droop? if so, did the drive shafts stay in ok?

[Adam Skelding]

Is the 2 degrees of rear anti-squat a secret mod? its been three days since Craig first mentioned it, and still no one has said how to get it:confused:

Also, has anyone tried running without the droop screws in the rear for more droop? if so, did the drive shafts stay in ok?

We didn't run 2 degrees anti-squat, we ran zero.
I mistakenly said to Craig I was changing to the 2 degree rear block, when it actually refers to mm offset.
We ran zero Anti Squat - It was good.

[Hulk]

Is the 2 degrees of rear anti-squat a secret mod? its been three days since Craig first mentioned it, and still no one has said how to get it:confused:

Also, has anyone tried running without the droop screws in the rear for more droop? if so, did the drive shafts stay in ok?

Sorry for late reply John, been off work last few days and still dont have access to internet at moment due to Sky been absolute idiots!!

Yeh after speaking with Adam again it wasn't 2 degree anti squat we actually ran zero. The car was much better over bumps especially under power!

In regards to not using the droop screws for more droop ive not been using mine since i got the car and had no problems with drive shafts coming out. If you take the cover off the outdrive you can actually see without the screws the driveshatfs still sit deep into the outdrive so you will have no problems.

Craig

[JohnM]

Thanks for the replys guys, just I was confused how you were getting the 2 degrees, when the book doesn't show it as an option, thought maybe there were some new parts coming, will give it a go this weekend, if we get enough peeps booked in for a meet.

Our track at LBC, is pretty bumpy, so anything that makes the car even better over them, has got to be good:thumbsup:

[WHITTLER555]

First run with the Durango at Southport today and I am impressed!:thumbsup:

The track is very high grip so worn tyres are best and I changed the set up to cope with the random bumps (set sheet will go up on Durango site if I can figure out how to do it!)

The car puts its power down really well and quite a few people commented on how well it rode he bumps. Reading the comment above I was running kit anti squat so with zero degree it should be even better.

In heat three it rained heavily so i quickly put on some very worn green ballistics and went out for the run. The car was brilliant, full time 4WD and excellent braking power meant I could drive up the inside of anyone, it really was exiting and easy to drive.

All day I was on the pace of a certain young Schumacher team driver so I was well pleased with the cars first run out.:thumbsup:

[bigred5765]

it did look good today damo, not bad for a old gezza lmao,;)

[WHITTLER555]

Cheers Carl, never laughed so much as Matty threw the car off coming on to the straight at 90 degrees into the gate!

Can't believe he finished the race.:woot:

I promise I wasn't sandbagging today:lol:

[bigred5765]

lol have never seen a car dig in so hard in all my time racing,it must have been 6 feet in the air, it took a chunk of wood out of the fence and still kept going, minus its front bumper,you were on for F1 pace today master sand bagger, lol