simple cure for driveshaft pins coming out.

[dave g]

simple fix to stop driveshaft pins coming out:

im not 100% sure on bearing size,i think its a 10mm outer but measure your driveshafts to double check.

take the above bearing,dremmel across the outer ring so it becomes a split ring,then push the internals out.

pushfit the split ring over the driveshaft and over the pin area,its a very snug fit on the shaft and the pins wont now come out,you can pop them back off when needed to check the pins for wear.

check the driveshaft moves free after fitting because if the pins are too long they will rub on the inside of the split ring and may bind it..2 secs with dremel on the pin cures it.

if you use old bearings even better as the groove inside the bearing is deeper and this wont bind on the pin,im sure its either a 10 or 11mm external bearing we used but they work perfect.

its something we do on the 1/8th d8 buggy(see pic below) and we did this to bruces and craigs durango,no more pins coming loose eh craig :)

dave

http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn270/davegee_album/gearbox%20rings/gearboxringLarge.jpg
http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn270/davegee_album/gearbox%20rings/gearboxring2Large.jpg

[Alex H]

Nice!
Going to try that. Have bought a whole set of new bearings because the stock ones faild. going to use the old ones for this.

[deepdale11]

I find it disappionting that spending all that money on a professional buggy that we need to do these things to make it work!!

[Adam Skelding]

I find it disappionting that spending all that money on a professional buggy that we need to do these things to make it work!!

You don't have to.
Some people just do it, from experience with 8th scale. It's belt and braces.

The most common problem is the CVD's haven't been assembled properly. My tip is to mark the flat on the CVD pin with a little tip-ex. So when you assemble the CVD's you know you are tightening the grub screw against the flat in the shaft.

My CVD's only got taken apart before the last meeting I went to. That's 13 meetings without the pins even budging.

Build it right once and you won't have to do it again...

Simples

[MALLET]

+1 here for Adam as I did the same with all my pins with the flats on. Been marking where the flats are for years on my 1/8th's

[one]

Same, +1 for Adam.

Brand new company and brand new shit hot fast car, give them a break. Besides build the thing properly... no problems.

Man, it is a tired old tune "this buggy is so expensive, blah blah blah". The stickers say it all about the DEX... SERIOUS ABOUT RACING. If that is not your thing buy a B44 and be happy, match made in heaven.

[dave g]

agreed you dont have to,just a precaution and peace of mind..sods law says it will come undone at the wrong time :)

[deepdale11]

NO need to be so touchy......THANK YOU Adam for your reply, i havn't raced mine yet but i will revist the CVD's to check.
My point is that there has been alot of comments on here about the pins in this car and was just thinking that as you said about the stickers "Serious about racing" that you shouldn't need to do these fixs on a serious car?? but as Adam replyed with a postive answer, i don't need to do them.
by the way i am VERY happy with my Durango....thanks!


Same, +1 for Adam.

Brand new company and brand new shit hot fast car, give them a break. Besides build the thing properly... no problems.

Man, it is a tired old tune "this buggy is so expensive, blah blah blah". The stickers say it all about the DEX... SERIOUS ABOUT RACING. If that is not your thing buy a B44 and be happy, match made in heaven.

[Northy]

One other thing I found was that all the CVD parts are oily from the manufacturing process in the kit.

Make sure you clean EVERY part with motor spray/brake cleaner until it is uber clean :D

G

[Gonzo]

Brand new company and brand new shit hot fast car, give them a break. Besides build the thing properly... no problems.



True, but this is a tricky part when building the car though. I noticed that when you use the force on the screw like tightening other MIP's, you would expect the little shaft is fixed, but it isn't! I could still push the shaft from side to side half a mm using a thin tool.
I think a lot of Durango's are driving now like this, and the shaft is only held in the axle because of the flat surface that traps the screw sideways. I know I did for a couple of weeks ;).
Only turning the screw using A LOT of force (much more than I used to on other MIP's), made that the shaft didn't move anymore when pushed sideways using a tool. (so there is no play at all, like I first assumed) When you don't have a decent hex-screwdriver, I think it's even completely impossible to tighten the screw properly.

[offroadrc]

i have put in 2 screws in one axle. first cleaned them with brake cleaner and locktied them.:bored:

[Gonzo]

i have put in 2 screws in one axle. first cleaned them with brake cleaner and locktied them.:bored:

I did too: 2 screws and strong locktite. But that doesn't help a thing when they aren't screwed in deep enough. So I still advise to check them, it takes 1 sec. When you can move the little shaft by pushing it, it's no good.

Maybe the thread (or diameters) in some bushings is not deep enough, and maybe on those you think you reached the shaft, but only reached the end of the thread. Not normal so much force is needed on some of them.

Last week the first one came out on my car after about 50 packs. Then I checked the other axles, and only 1 of the little pins was not moving when I pushed it, so I rebuilt them all 5 ...
I don't think they came loose, I think they were like that from the moment I first build them. Now I tightened properly using a lot of force, and I'm almost 100% sure they'll stay in this time, without any crimp or bushing like above (nice idea though)

[Northy]

Oh, another tip I forgot......:blush:

I 'think' the threaded tubes in the cvds are threaded and then cross drilled for the pins. In a couple of mine there were bits swarf left from drilling the holes. This might have been why your grub screw didn't nip up.

So, before you clean everything REALLY well, run an M3 tap, or a screw, or even a screw with a slot ground in it right the way through the threaded tube to clean out any manufacturing swarf. ;)

G

[DCM]

Strewth, I never knew building a CVD was so complicated... come on guys, if you are buying one of these cars, then you shouldn't be a newbie at building driveshafts, it is the same old.... degrease/clean, check orientation, assemble, thread lock then apply a small amount of grease!

[samd]

Is this how you built your durango CVDs

[James]

Dave can you measure the correct size bearing and post ? :)

[dave g]

i dont have durango here..but im pretty sure it was an 11x5x4mm (clutch bearing off the d8)

whats the diameter of the durango cvd?

[James]

9.96mm

[dave g]

yep looks like 11mm bearings then :)

[Lee Martin]

what ever happened to simple heat shrink? :-p

[offroadrc]

i think heat shrink is still availeble

[dave g]

heatshrink does work,but if the pin comes loose it pushes right thru but its better than nothing.

as adam said if you build them right with good locktite and leave to set for 24hrs(threadlock is slow setting and needs a good 12+ hours cure time) you should be ok,this is just an added backup and you never have to worry about pins coming out.

[AmiSMB]

Was just checking my pins after reading this thread but even if I had the pin saver or heat shrink it would not have helped me as my pin was in two pieces. Could not believe it! Seems like alot of poeple are purchasing the drive pins as they seem to be out of stock at the moment.