Diff and CVD build tips!! check this out.

[Hulk]

Durango have put step by step diagrams on their web site showing how to correctly build your diffs and cvd's.

Defo worth a look.

Here are the links

CVD link: http://www.team-durango.com/blog/?p=44

Diff link: http://www.team-durango.com/blog/?p=24

Sweet! :thumbsup:

[Adam Skelding]

Yup.
I've been busy.....

:lol::lol:

[Hulk]

Good skills fella.

Never thought of filling the CVD barrel with threadlock. ive always just put a drop on the grub screw which then spills over and binds the CVD. By filling the barrel you make sure there is plenty of threadlock on the grub screw and around the pin. No chance of it coming loose!

Good stuff :thumbsup:

[mark christopher]

adam is that a normal Durango driver or a Torque driver?

[AmiSMB]

Going to get busy now and re-do all of mine as I have now done my 4th drive pin. It is strange as I have never had this type of issue with MIP CVDs.

[Adam Skelding]

adam is that a normal Durango driver or a Torque driver?
Normal..
Why would it be a torque driver???
There are no Torx screws on the car....:confused:

[GRIFF55]

i'm guessing he means a torque driver (as in torque wrench you can adjust pressure on) as opposed to a torx (star shaped head) one.
Like the tip about tipex on the flat spot, never thought of doing that before:)

Will/are the tools going to be released? they look NICE!! if so, when please mate?

[mark christopher]

adam Torque driver NOT torx driver

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/catalog/TDriver.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp%3FidProduct%3D7031&h=341&w=510&sz=28&tbnid=RXRbZlmjlKbSFM:&tbnh=88&tbnw=131&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dtorque%2Bscrew%2Bdriver&hl=en&usg=__H1pD0ZOvL5HlQ9H0QeW_tlBgcow=&ei=PGYhS-vuDIr74Aboi8XoCQ&sa=X&oi=image_result&resnum=10&ct=image&ved=0CC4Q9QEwCQ

[one]

Great idea using a blog. Thanks for your time Adam.

I have not had one issue with pins coming loose, but I will mos def add the extra grub screw with the next re-build.

I have been using light bearing oil on my cvd's then lightly wiping them dry. What's the benefit with the black grease?

Also with the x-rings on the dif, some people have been soaking the rings in oil before installing them. Is that worth doing as well as the green slime.

Cheers
Ant

[fastinfastout]

edit.

found the answer myself.

M3 grub screws.

[Malcnz]

one thing I always do on my 8th scale buggy/truggy diff casings is smear some silicon around the top edge of the plasitc case and this stops the top from leaking..just a little bit is required...I didnt build my diffs as brought car already built and I guess there is room on top of casing to put some silicon on and do they run a gasket like 8th scale diffs?

[fastinfastout]

yes I was suprised too when I built my durango that the diffs didnt have a rubber gasket/o-ring when mating the two parts together. I did however used some grease when assembled. Any grease is better than none, I normally would use vasoline/white grease but smeared some AE diff lube on the mating surface which I had lying around.

[AmiSMB]

Well I re built the CVD with two grub screws but have still found that I went through a CVD pin. It was still in the barrel with bits missing and it had not moved. Now I am using Losi or AE drive pins and just use a 1.7mm drill in the pin hole to make sure that everything is smooth when it is rebuilt. On another note last night I found out that a B44 front drive shaft will fit on the front of the Durango. That will teach me to keep the CVD barrel somewhere safer!

[fastinfastout]

I'm thinking maybe the flat spot design on the cvd pins are the reason the pins have been snapping/shearing!

A full pin with no flat spot should/would be stronger.

maybe durango just got too technical and overboard with their engineering!