View Full Version : damaged wheel bearings
rcardoso
06-01-2010, 12:39 PM
I started to notice that the front wheels dont spin free, disassembled and all the wheel bearing are gone.
the crush tube between the bearings was smashed... and the roll pins are bent also, i think this was the problem...
What roll pins are u using ?
Had this happened to someone ??
mark christopher
06-01-2010, 01:55 PM
the crush tube is just a spacer it should not crush?
rcardoso
06-01-2010, 04:00 PM
i think beeing smashed is a signal that i´m tightning the wheel too much, maybe because the roll pins are bending?
Anyone with this problem?
AmiSMB
06-01-2010, 04:13 PM
I use solid drive pins from Nortech racing instead of roll pins all round the car. You need to make sure that the rear is shimmed properly at the rear to avoid bending the pin when tightening the wheel nut.
Alex H
06-01-2010, 04:24 PM
I have replaced every single ballbearing in my ride since one broke down on the first testrun. And there were no crashes or other incidents. No jumping or what not. Just tried it out on the street. Bad luck I thought and bought a new one. Then I noticed that one of the diff bearings also was bad. I ordered a complete set of bocca bearings instead and replaced all of them. When I did so one of the spurgears bearings fell apart in the process!!!
The boccas seems to do the job but I was not that impressed with the quality as I were when building it. Rest of the car is just ace.
Guess I got a bad batch of bearings. These new ones does not spew grease all over the car anyway.
AmiSMB
06-01-2010, 04:33 PM
I have found the same thing and use Answer RC 5x 10 x 4 bearings for the wheels and also bought some bearings for a Kyosho ZX5 which happens to have all of the different bearings that the Durnago uses from Wallawalla store on ebay.
bondy
06-01-2010, 04:45 PM
New Steel Spacers are on the way soon I have been informed.
Which should eliminate any bearing Pin Issues. I recently replaced mine and also inserted a steel ic clutch shim. It seams to have done the job for now as no failures on Sunday ! cant wait for the steely ones :woot:
will all the revitions be free to people who have already got the kits as im sure they will be in the future kits
Malcnz
06-01-2010, 11:00 PM
will all the revitions be free to people who have already got the kits as im sure they will be in the future kits
wouldnt that be nice..TM did it with there first Buggy..was still a peice of :thumbdown: though...
The wheel bearings are the same size as most common 8th scale gas buggys/truggys so are cheap and easy to find but index easily and are just to small.....my Tamiya mini chassis have bigger wheel bearings...crazy.
Steel spacers would be perfect. I have found that the wheels need to be tightened up super firm, or else, loose wheel... then pin loose and wheel stripped on the rear anyway.
I have picked up some Associated shims for the rear axels. I also noticed that my rear alloy spacers had become squashed deformed after 10 race meets. Cheap to replace though :thumbsup:
The car seems to seriously lock down and grip when you fully punch it. I attributed this to some of the wheel bearing being shot after each couple of race meets. I am picking up bearings for about $1 (50 pence) so no big deal. Especially as the gains on dirt tracks are simply awesome. The outer-outer rear wheel bearings on my B4 also fail, but over a longer period of race meets.
Would it be worth buying high quality bearings like Boca if the wheel bearings are taking such a punishing?
Chequered Flag Racing
07-01-2010, 09:27 AM
New Steel Spacers are on the way soon I have been informed.
pal has these fitted from the HPI Cyclone D4 / #61490 if anyone can't wait
dave g
07-01-2010, 10:13 AM
yep,we fitted some steel spacers to bruces car.
you can use an old nitro clutch bearing and just the inner part of it and its a perfect fit.
AmiSMB
25-01-2010, 12:02 PM
I have had problems with the front bearings going and the front wheels not being very free and now I have used the HB61490 the front wheels are alot smoother and I can make sure the wheel nuts can be run tight without worrying about them. I still thread lock them just in case. I decided the use the old front bearing centres for replacing the crunch spacer in the rear and now the drive train is the most free it has ever been. That may have caused my higher than expected temperatures when I first had the car.
Has any one tryed the orange sealed ceramics from boca?
http://www.bocabearings.com/main1.aspx?p=product&id=18334&n=*66-005C-OS-NB2
or the yellow one are good enough?
http://www.bocabearings.com/main1.aspx?p=product&id=18335&n=*66-005C-YS
Takes2home
04-02-2010, 11:58 PM
I have try the orange boca bearing the yellow too (on my e revo) they are really smooth but the best in my opinion are ACE bearing they last for ever.
I just put on my TD the teflon bearing from Tresrey they seems very smooth but i have them only for 10 days now.
Bye
The yellow are greased for life what about others?
Have you seen real differences between orange and yellow that worth the price?
Takes2home
06-02-2010, 12:17 AM
the orange one are sold with spare shilds and they have one type for on road with oil and one for offroad with grease and no shild contact, but i diden t notice difference between orange and yellow they are both great. Teflone bearing are also very good and much cheaper.
Ok thanks,
I think I will go for the yellow, that are greased for life.
On orange they say less maintenance and yellow are maintenance free.
I also can get 2.5 kit of yeloow for one orange...
paulc
06-02-2010, 10:52 AM
them BOCA bearings are exspensive :o
Who make ceramic bearings greased for life cheaper?
paulc
10-02-2010, 09:52 PM
New Steel Spacers are on the way soon I have been informed.
Which should eliminate any bearing Pin Issues. I recently replaced mine and also inserted a steel ic clutch shim. It seams to have done the job for now as no failures on Sunday ! cant wait for the steely ones :woot:
when are these steel spacers going to be avalible ??
I have had problems with the front bearings going and the front wheels not being very free and now I have used the HB61490 the front wheels are alot smoother and I can make sure the wheel nuts can be run tight without worrying about them. I still thread lock them just in case. I decided the use the old front bearing centres for replacing the crunch spacer in the rear and now the drive train is the most free it has ever been. That may have caused my higher than expected temperatures when I first had the car.
hey man any way you can post a pic of this for better refference. i keep stripping my wheels cuz of over tightening and bending the pin
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