Sc10 rear wheels pins problem [Archive]

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pb1

10-02-2010, 08:06 AM

Has any body had problems with the rear pins striping the wheel. I no the pins are sitting right in the slots I am only running a 10.5 motor the car has just ran up an down the road to test the car????? If so what other wheels to buy:confused:

jon kedge

10-02-2010, 08:23 AM

Iv'e heard of this happening and iv'e been told to fill in the moulding on the inside of the wheel (not the slot you use for the pin)with putty or anythihg that sets hard and it stops the plastic spreading under load.And you might be running the slipper clutch to hard so back it off a bit.I myself have invested in traxxas wheels and a 12mm hex conversion from e-bay USA,you can also get 17mm hex conversion and run rally x wheels and tyres but i think that would be a no no in any race series.Hope this helps.

pb1

10-02-2010, 08:38 AM

Thanks for the info will check the slipper to night

wezzer

10-02-2010, 09:28 AM

Hi
the original kits had an issue with not having enough strength around the pin slots in the wheels ( hence filling the gaps with araldite etc ) but this was only on the very early kits ! the recent ones have reinforced wheels and no longer cause an issue! how old is your kit ? and where was it purchased.

Northy

10-02-2010, 09:38 AM

Or you could use longer pins.... ;)

pb1

10-02-2010, 09:57 AM

mark christopher

10-02-2010, 10:39 AM

Or you could use longer pins.... ;)
i would also sugest above, see the man above who can supply them, cheap and perfect..... the pins are good too :p

Gaz_Stanton

10-02-2010, 11:39 AM

I got a new set of wheels recently and, as Wes has said, these have now been strengthened from the originals. The picture below is of an AE #9808 wheel and as you can see there is a lot more material around where the pin goes.

http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb197/gareth_stanton/DSC01563.jpg

millzy

10-02-2010, 11:47 AM

b4 wheel nuts grip more to the CVD than the bigger sc10 ones

tested a few "stronger" wheels and found that the wheel nuts are the biggest issue

mrspeedy

10-02-2010, 05:53 PM

If you go to your local model shop you can buy a length of spring steel for peanuts and have drive pins an inch long if you like :thumbsup:

Garry

11-02-2010, 08:00 PM

Heres a pic of the difference between old and new rims:

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/1337/sc10rears.jpg

b4 wheel nuts grip more to the CVD than the bigger sc10 ones

tested a few "stronger" wheels and found that the wheel nuts are the biggest issue

Yep, I found the stock nyloc is rubbish and the nut loosens off far enough to allow the pin to come out of the slot. I'm running Fastrax Low-Profile nuts and haven't had a problem with them.

Stick your old rims in the oven, 180deg C, 4 mins on a baking tray, then you'll be able to pull the old tyres off the rims if they are still in decent condition. Then just buy new rims. :thumbsup:

Chrislong

11-02-2010, 09:45 PM

My wheels are knackered, even with longer pins. Somehow im still using them and just keep re-tightening them between runs.

Still on original wheels, kit bought new from JEspares about August/Sept 2009.

Infact, Ive just bought new wheels 2 weeks ago from the shop at Bury indoor club, unused but glued to new tyres ready - and those wheels are also of the old design!!!!!! (Wez, help!! :( )

mes

12-02-2010, 07:51 AM

I had the same issue (destroyed two sets of wheels...) and consequently converted to hex drives (TC3 ones). I had to get the axle more to the inside, though. I managed to do so by cutting the original bearing spacer in half and putting the halves on the (cvd) axles before pushing them into the bearings.
Looks great and works great, but was a little late for me after having issues for the entire season...

I really liked the old aluminum RC10s of my friends (myself driving a Cougar 2 with brittle front plate at that time), but I'm a little disappointed of the 1st series SC10.
The newer one seems to have all major problems solved: toe-in in the rear, more caster in the front, reinforced chassis and suspension (had no problems with these...) and ruggedized rear wheels. I wonder when there will be a FT version...

Cooper

12-02-2010, 01:21 PM

The newer one seems to have all major problems solved: toe-in in the rear, more caster in the front, reinforced chassis and suspension (had no problems with these...) and ruggedized rear wheels. I wonder when there will be a FT version...

where can I find these updates?

Beanie

26-03-2010, 12:37 PM

Hmm...found the same issue with the wheels on my SC10. I'm going to use Nortech longer pins, put some araldite around the wheel pin slot to reinforce it and get some of those Fastrax wheel nuts!
Also read on another thread about using a washer on the outside of the wheel to ensure the nuts aren't getting to the end of the axle thread and will nip up tightly to ensure the pin is nicely engaged.

Be interested to know about the other updates as Cooper asked :)
Anyone got more details of these?

Matt_N

26-03-2010, 04:03 PM

I stripped the original wheels, so bought some Proline Split 6's and the blue B4 wheelnuts and havent had a problem since.

Matt

weeman

26-03-2010, 05:00 PM

Beanie

26-03-2010, 05:29 PM

Running 2 sc10's..Tried all the wheels and they all munch in the end..Original pin too short and huge diameter wheel...somethings got to give...My solution which totally works...crude i admit, dremel a neat slot fully across the hub and cut a pin from piano wire about25mm long.. Put wheel back on tight and it will stay on til tyre wears through to the insert!:woot:

Surely that, or perhaps the Nortech Cat pins that fit the B4? I got a set for my B4 because I wasn't comfortable with the way those roll pins sat in the B4 wheels, too short to my mind.

A pack gives you 4, so 2 for the B4 and 2 to put on the SC10 :thumbsup: