TRF501X - Alternative for plastic pivot balls

[triplevenom]

Hi,

Does anybody have an alternative for the plastic pivot balls that the dampers mount on? Especially the plastic nut on the top mount I really don't trust.

Thanks
T.

[TRF_Tastic]

Me and a couple of others have been racing the 501 all season without a single failure of those parts. So dont worry about them, there is plenty of info on the parts that do need to be replaced on the 501, but these parts are not one of them.

[delanobe]

It could be a good idea to make a list of all the items that should be changed when you get the standard kit? :wtf:

AE 87 spur
Screw kit
Different springs
New bearings all around
DIff bearings
TI turnbuckles
Reinforced cup balls
Adjustable belt tensioners
Sway bars

if somebody can make the list complete??

Ciao

[chrispattinson]

Bearings: What is wrong with the kit bearings? I always thought the quality of the Tamiya bearings was very good.

Sway bars: Are many people running these? Ive never got on with anti roll bars, particularly with our rough tracks.

I would add to that list:

Ballstuds - as I have seen some shear off on occassions that I thought were acceptable.

Alloy camber mount should be upgraded to the stronger version, as I have seen the kit items bend.

[TRF_Tastic]

These are the items from you list with some added extras.

AE 87 spur Must
Screw kit Must
Different springs Must (associated Springs)
New bearings all around (Kit Bearings fine)
DIff bearings (Ceramic Diff Balls)
TI turnbuckles Must
Reinforced cup balls 50/50
Adjustable belt tensioners Must
Sway bars No need

Extra's
One Way
Yokomo Shock Shafts
Strengthened Camber link
Schumacher arial mount (moves the arial away from the centre pain in the neck position)

Hope that this helps, if you need anymore help just drop me a pm.

[delanobe]

What is the schumacher arial mount?? Never heard about it?

thanks

[TRF_Tastic]

If you look at the Schumacher site

http://www.racing-cars.com/images/Technical_info/Schumacher/Current%20Cars/Mi2EC/Exploded%20Diagram/Mi2ec_exploded.pdf

and look for part U1042 you will see what I mean.

[delanobe]

These are the items from you list with some added extras.

AE 87 spur Must
Screw kit Must
Different springs Must (associated Springs)
New bearings all around (Kit Bearings fine) Kanzen bearings are a cheap good upgrade
DIff bearings (Ceramic Diff Balls)
TI turnbuckles Must
Reinforced cup balls 50/50
Adjustable belt tensioners Must
Sway bars No need

EDIT: Diff protective seals (In my opinion a must)


Extra's
One Way
Yokomo Shock Shafts
Strengthened Camber link
Schumacher arial mount (moves the arial away from the centre pain in the neck position)

[mutie]

Just my 2ps worth...

I don't really understand why a new spur is a MUST!

Personally I found that the kit spur and pinion an excellent ratio for my 5.5.

You need some extra springs, granted. I used the tamiya option springs.

My standard turnbuckles have taken lots of abuse, did not break one all season (but could do with a decent spanner!)

personally i think any diff in our current 'power mad' climate can benefit from a ceramic ball upgrade.

Compared to many other cars the 501 is one tough cookie as standard! Not even the camber link is essential, having one in the box would be sensible.

Granted the standard screws are not titanium, but i have found them perfectly up to the job.

The sway bars are cheap as chips and you may be surprised at the effect they may have. The tamiya bars are very thin for adding 'just a little' positive effect. One on the front worked for me, toned the front one way agression down a notch.

I guess overall my take is that the extra cash could be used for more spares, motors, cells etc.... which could add more value in the long run.

[delanobe]

Anybody had problems with the Hex hubs?? Seems like they are not really that reliable?

is there an alternative?

Thanks

[TRF_Tastic]

The Hex hubs have been fine no issues that I've heard of apart from people losing in them when they dont do their wheels nuts up, which in my opinion is their own faults!!!

[TRF_Tastic]

Just my 2ps worth...

I don't really understand why a new spur is a MUST!

Well try an 87t spur and then get back to me, provides the car with a better ratio also less rotating mass in the transmission which as we all know is a good thing.

I guess overall my take is that the extra cash could be used for more spares, motors, cells etc.... which could add more value in the long run.

More spares, are you having a laugh I have a truck load of spares that I havent used, the only thing I have broken is a wishbone (massive accident at full tilt) and a front upright again massive accident at full tilt. A basic set of spares will go a long way with this car.


I could spend ages debating the merits of what you have said verus what I have recomended, the items on my list are things that I have gone to through trial and error so they are well founded, however you have got by with what you have run, it just goes to show that this buggy can be run in standard trim or in modified trim like I have done. Horses for courses.

[stefke]

AE 87 spur No must. 96T is Kit spur is fine for me
Screw kit handy but no must
Different springs Must (associated Springs) : AGREE. Tamiya spring are a NO NO (they rub the shockbodies)
New bearings all around Kit Bearings are fine
Diff balls (ABSOLUTE MUST
TI turnbuckles Not needed really. Kit ones look dull but are fine
Reinforced cup balls ABSOLUTE MUST. Kit ball cups pop off too easy
Adjustable belt tensioners Must
Sway bars Not a MUST, but handy on astro tracks
Diff protective seals For reducing maintenance : MUST. But : cut your own ! :D
Yokomo Shock ShaftsMUST
Strengthened Camber link Kit one fine for me
Schumacher arial mount Handy but no must

[delanobe]

Could somebody give me a link where to get Snee blue inserts and associated springs (with the correct art nr.) The hobby shops in Belgium are a real pain in the A$$.

Best regards

[stefke]

Could somebody give me a link where to get Snee blue inserts and associated springs (with the correct art nr.) The hobby shops in Belgium are a real pain in the A$$.

Best regards

Here you go :

http://www.rc10.com/newprod/1580_springs.htm

Forget the Snee inserts. You can't find them anymore. Use the Schumacher blue inserts instead. You're from Belgium so try MCM.

[scotoap]

If you look at the Schumacher site

http://www.racing-cars.com/images/Technical_info/Schumacher/Current%20Cars/Mi2EC/Exploded%20Diagram/Mi2ec_exploded.pdf

and look for part U1042 you will see what I mean.

Thats almost identical to the TA05 ariel mount, so you could keep to Tamy bits for that;) :rolleyes:

[rcracer]

is it possible to just move the ariel mount :confused: , ive got 2 reciever so aint going to be messing about with it.

[jimmy]

The Hex hubs have been fine no issues that I've heard of apart from people losing in them when they dont do their wheels nuts up, which in my opinion is their own faults!!!


The hexes break easily because they bend around the pin - Losi ones the pin is on the outside so they don't do that. I used Losi ones and now I use hot bodies - but they need drilling out.

[TRF_Tastic]

is it possible to just move the ariel mount :confused: , ive got 2 reciever so aint going to be messing about with it.

I've moved the arial mount so its located on one of the screws that locate the undertray in the middle, works fine for me.

[TRF_Tastic]

The hexes break easily because they bend around the pin - Losi ones the pin is on the outside so they don't do that. I used Losi ones and now I use hot bodies - but they need drilling out.

Jimmy I was unaware of this happening, as I havent seen it down here.

[jimmy]

I broke mine just tightening the wheels too much, woody broke his on an impact. The hotbodies ones need drilling and the rear just sanding lightly so the pin will go thru easier.


As for ball cups I've given up! first it was serpent ones - which I broke at the Euros.. so I fitted new HB ones all round and still popped one off on the first jump in my final when I landed at an angle. ARGH. Someone told me about the reinforced ball cups which are supposed to be better than the kit items so I've made it my mission to get those on the car next.

[stefke]

Just put some Losi whites (like Hupo) or RPM ball cups on. The Tamiya ones are made from a plastic that is too soft for the job.

[taz84]

Has anyone tried DuBro captured ends yet?

[Lplate]

Any recomendation for Ceramic Diff Balls that will fit the TRF501x ball diffs? Any brand and item in particular?

[501X Driver]

Has anyone tried DuBro captured ends yet?

I ahven't had an issue with the 501X yet but on my Losi XXX-t CR i was popping them off every or every other race so I went to the Dubro captured ends and they add some bulk but they work great and don't wear really at all. Plus if you break the ball off the ball mounts the use of a screw is much stronger. So the looks are bulky but much less hassle if you have issues finishing races for a simple ball cup popping off.

Also for the debate on the 87 spur. I felt like it moved the motor back enough to take away some steering. WIth the lipo pack you need to move as much weight back as possible. I don't like adding weight like lead strips so I prefer the smaller spur. Plus it takes out some of the sharp spikes to the belts because you loose the leverage.
Just my .02

[super__dan]

Jimmy, RPM ball ends, I absolutly swear by them. I use the short (AE style) black ones on all my cars and they never ever fall off!

[SiR_Dave]

I use to run the RPM rod ends and the Losi HD ones... but I have found that the Yokomo HD ones are Very strong!!!!:cool::woot: and plus they are very cheep to boot;)

http://www.rcspeedshop.ne.jp/oscommerce/catalog/images/ZC-207HD.jpg

[Eddie168]

anyone know where i could get 501x screw kit? thx

[SiR_Dave]

anyone know where i could get 501x screw kit? thx

There are a few shops that make them but none of them that I know of are in the UK:eh?:

The other ones are as follows
Speedtech R/C $64.99 - USA
CHAMP ￥2,940- Japan