View Full Version : Building the diffs...
colt_seavers
22-07-2010, 04:27 PM
Does anyone have any tips on how to get the main gears onto the hexagonal input shafts? I have managed to get one on (and no idea how I did it), and that has taken the past hour. I don't know what to do next. I am not forcing it, so maybe I am not pushing it hard enough. Frustration is starting to set in now!
shanks
22-07-2010, 04:39 PM
Usually people use something like a socket etc and tap it down
they are a tight fit from new but will tap down - just make sure it goes down equally all round :thumbsup:
colt_seavers
22-07-2010, 04:50 PM
Thanks for the reply. The only thing is in the review on this site, Jimmy says that forcing them on just makes it harder. I don't want to mangle anything up.
shanks
22-07-2010, 04:54 PM
Yeh i read that too
however they just wont go on without a tap as they are an "inerferance fit"
as long as they god down evenly they will be fine
try durango web site there is a build guide on there i think
also pretty sure similar questions have been asked on here in the durango forum - go to it and search diffs should bring it up
shanks
22-07-2010, 05:13 PM
Durnango web site does reccomment greasing the hex shaft
Rebelrc
22-07-2010, 05:39 PM
bang them on with a wooden dowel and hammer...but not over tight
jimmy
22-07-2010, 05:55 PM
I will go take a look at the review - yes they do need tapping to fully seat them, but I found it somewhat counter-productive to try hammer them on when they weren't on in the first place. If you can get the gears onto the hexagonal shaft then job done - just gently tap them down.
It was getting them on the diff outdrives in the first place that I found a little tricky but try line them up with your eye and then go easy on them and try make sure they're going on square - push 'em with your thumb.
sime46
22-07-2010, 09:11 PM
Be aware fellas, if there tight going on they'll be tight coming off. You will need to strip them sometime to replace the seals etc and you will struggle to get the side off that sits in the cap. The advice says tap them on a table but in reality they dont come off if there on too tight. I rubbed my hex shafts down with some fine sand paper until they fitted nicely. You can get them perfect with time and patience, and down the line you'll kick yourselves if you dont. I ended up cutting one of my diff cases in half to get it apart which aint what you wanna be doin. Up to you in the end but its workin for me. Good luck boys.:thumbsup:
Rebelrc
22-07-2010, 10:00 PM
Just punch the outdrive back out...simples:confused:
EA-Import
23-07-2010, 08:25 PM
Just punch the outdrive back out...simples:confused:
And if it's tight enough screw up the clip and the x-ring and possibly also the case on the way. Just grind them a bit if you can't get it through with just a gentle tap.
matthew
24-07-2010, 02:58 PM
Yes they were difficult but I just lined them up and pushed down with my
thumb wasnt really an issue for me. Good luck with it :thumbsup:
colt_seavers
24-07-2010, 03:38 PM
I might try sanding them down a bit - will sand paper work on metal?
I have found that lots of things so far have had really tight tolerances, so it's been quite challenging in parts. Having said that this is the first kit I have built since I was kid so I don't have much experience. I just want to make a good job of it!
Lamar
26-07-2010, 12:57 PM
It's not just you, I've been giving my files a workout. I used a small 5 or 5.5mm driver to tap the gears on.
The steering shaft that goes through the servo saver is slightly too large for the bearings as well. I forced those on, but the kit bearings leave a lot to be desired.
Chequered Flag Racing
26-07-2010, 02:01 PM
will sand paper work on metal?
No
you need fine wet & dry sanding paper suitable for metal
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