Setups!

[jimmy]

Post your setups in here ! if you like! :)

[Arn0]

Blank sheet & setups for MR4BX (http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/SetupSheetsYokomoMR4BX.html)

Blank sheet & setups for B-Max4 (http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/SetupSheetsYokomoBMax4.html)

Not so many thing on this one but maybe the list 'll grow with time!

[rcyogi]

I ran my car for the first time yesterday and the stock setup is so good, at my local track Im not sure Im chaging anything, One thing i did was shave a little be of the front top brace to clear the belt, but I did this when i built the car since I notes it was touching.

[Bastos]

Hello


I've win a french nats with this setup.

Here :
http://mini-zone.com/download.php?lng=fr

and gallerie of the race here :
http://www.mini-zone.com/plugins/diaporama/diaporama.php?lng=fr&diapo_id=27

See you later

[Cammer]

If anyone is running their car on dirt and experiencing belt and pulley damage putting a piece of notched foam over the belt solved most of my problems. The batteries hold it in place.

[Bathy]

I was thinking of using a bit of cut off 'brush' to have a similar effect as your foam idea, I think I'll try to sort something out tonight, don't want a diff full of grass this weekend.

Does anyone know where I can download a blank .pdf setup sheet for the BX? (I know there is a link to a .jpg one above but I want a .pdf so i can type on my PC)

[ryan]

this is the setup i used around oswestry i loved it, it was the best 4wd car i have ever driven this setup was so dialed and handled the bumps lovely!!

front:
yokomo shocks
spring:losi silver
oil:35
piston:associated 3
camber link on shocktower: bottom in the middle
hub height: bottom hole
top of the shock absorber:middle
bottom of shock:middle

Rear:
yokomo shocks
spring: losi red
oil: 30
piston: associated 1
*upside down ballstuds by spacing up rear deck and turnung up side down i will post pics later*
top of shock: 1 hole from the inside
bottom of the shock: most droop inside

i will also post a setup sheet with this info on

hope this helps ryan:)

[ryan]

hi

i have done the setup sheet in adobe photo shop elements and have tryed to upload but the dimensions are to big, how do i shrink it??
ryan

EDIT: Here it is
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/reviewbx/setups/bxsetuposwestry.jpg

[jimmy]

You can resize it in photoshop--- or email me it and I will do it and upload it for you mate.

m o o p l e a @ h o t m a i l . c o m

[winehundred]

this is the setup i used around oswestry i loved it, it was the best 4wd car i have ever driven this setup was so dialed and handled the bumps lovely!!

front:
yokomo shocks
spring:losi silver
oil:35
piston:associated 3
camber link on shocktower: bottom in the middle
hub height: bottom hole
top of the shock absorber:middle
bottom of shock:middle

Rear:
yokomo shocks
spring: losi red
oil: 30
piston: associated 1
*upside down ballstuds by spacing up rear deck and turnung up side down i will post pics later*
top of shock: 1 hole from the inside
bottom of the shock: most droop inside

i will also post a setup sheet with this info on

hope this helps ryan:)
Hi,

I tried the AE pistons with the Yokomo shocks, but they seem to be a little too narrow. I bought those pistons 10 years ago or so (they're white), maybe the present ones are different? Did someone else tried this?

Also could we compare the white Yokomo to the AE n°2 and blacks to the AE n°1?

Thanks for your help:)

[ryan]

hi,
the associated pistons just fit, make sure all the burs are removed and if new manually slide shaft up and down until they aren't so narrow. alos try no 2 in the front and some losi orange springs (if you can find them) also a extra short wheel base for extra grip and you could also try some 25 weight oil in the rear on less bumby or high frequency bumbs to gain more rear end grip.
ryan

[Arn0]

Blank sheet & setups for MR4BX (http://www.petitrc.com/view_news.php?id=4930)

File update with Hiroshi Suzuki standard setup sheet, maybe interesting for some fellows looking for a starting point setup.

[winehundred]

Is it me or everybody run the 3° rear suspension mount upside down from what the manual suggests?:confused: If so, what's the benefit of that mod?

Thanks guys!

[ryan]

it's not a modification its just a adjusment. It angles the wishbone, i think running it upside down stops it digging in to the bumps, i think everybody runs it upside down.


ryan:)

[winehundred]

it's not a modification its just a adjusment. It angles the wishbone, i think running it upside down stops it digging in to the bumps, i think everybody runs it upside down.


ryan:)

Thanks mate:)

[Arn0]

Blank sheet & setups for MR4BX (http://www.petitrc.com/view_news.php?id=4930)
Document updated, blank setup sheet in pdf available!

[Jimbo]

Hey guys,
Firstly, I apologise for the long post to follow, hopefully it helps someone out!

Got no idea how many of you have an MR4BX, but over an event recently, some guys were pretty keen to know how I got my BX to handle on a fairly rutty track, red dirt , and why I wasn't continuously rebuilding diffs. I'm not going to say I'm a ledge driver, or my BX was totally dialled, but I do know it was pretty easy to drive, and reliable enough for three runs http://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/laugh2.gif .

Basically the car was setup so that it went through bumps straight on the straight and without kicking the rear out in the corners.

With a standard setup to start, the following was changed:

Yellow yokomo springs front and rear, 25wt front oil, 20 wt rear. Soft rear helped through the bumps etc, softer front actually stopped the front from catching as bad as the stock front when going through corners, which was kicking the back out.

Rear shock on inside hole on tower, settles the car in bumpy corners.

Removed the shims under front hingepin mounts at the back of the car - helped go through bumps better on power.

2 degree front toe in - helps go straight through bumps

2 degree front and rear camber - more stable through the bumps

Curved rear wing trimmed down to the first line - as in highest lip other than full, helps rear traction keeping rear down on straight, and slightly on cornering

Front belt tension on the line closest to the centre of the car - on an old belt

Rear belt tension on the first step towards the back from the middle of the adjustment, I think it is the 5th notch backwards, with a new rear belt.

Slipper reasonably loose, actually quite slow off the line, good enough to get to the corner first, but fine when rolling, helps allow use of loose belt tension and loose diffs.

Losi IFMAR Studs silver front, slightly worn Losi Step pins in the rear.
They were on 5 spoke rims, no idea if that helped (Flex or lack of, no idea)

Front diff tighter than rear.

Beware, this setup jumps terribly so may not work if you have triples etc to contend with, all I will say is the 'slap' from landing a 50 cm kicker is pronounced. But it drives well on a damp, bumpy red dirt track. The more you can down side, the better.

And as for reliability, you guys probably do this anyway, but this is what I do/have done.

rebuild the diffs before each day as a precaution, keep the bearings clean too, they sieze pretty easily.

trim the undertray as high as possible, buy some self adhesive window/door foam strip (soft stuff is best) and stick it around the top of the tray above the velcro. Also apply velcro all the way around the undertray.

Cut the body as low as possible also.

Trim the top lexan cover of the rear diff as long as possible so it sticks into the car under the bodyshell. Stick some of that foam around the belt where it goes through the front of the lexan cover, and on the graphite top plate under the belt. It can be trimmed, or the belt will eventually wear it away so it is nice and snug. Also leave the sides of the lexan top cover as large as possible to fit the top plate and use the four screws to hold it down.

Carefully trim a piece of lexan to fit the gap in front of the rear diff between the belts, and as much around it as possible. You can go as close as a couple of mm to the belt as it is pretty close to the pulley and won't move too much up and down.

Tape the gaps around the concentric housings for the rear diff under the top plate, kinda like an upside down 'U' so it goes around the diff outdrives and cover the gap across the top of the housing.

Use a fine mesh and superglue (careful, it will melt the paint if applied and moved around too much) it to the inside of the bodyshell around the cooling vents for the motor. I used the mesh from a clothes dryer lint collector on a front loading dryer. They usually come in a round disk about 30 cms across, the mesh is a fine as you'll find anywhere, and it will keep the air going through and all but the finest dust out. Any better sources I'm listening.

Form a L shaped piece of lexan or use tape to cover up the top gap above the front diff when looking down and the two holes in the front shock tower that are actually under the line of th bodyshell. Dirt will get straight in here.

Put some foam across the top of the front shock tower where the top of the lexan diff cover meets it.

Put a piece of lexan across the back of the rear diff housings.

I also mount the under tray at the back by having an L shaped piece go up and back towards the front, then screw the top of this into the rear hinge pin block holes. I then put some of the foam on the undertray floor all around where the graphite for the rear chassis plate is (avoiding the gap where it might foul with the diff). I also put a strip across on the under tray floor where the under tray goes under the front diff/hinge pin housing and where the lip on the sides starts, this stops dirt getting in when the front end bottoms out.

And finally, I slipped a piece of fuel tubing over the aerial and fitted it so it was snug just where the body rests when mounted so it fills the hole in the body.

I wonder if the Tamiya diff covers will fit somehow??

It is pretty involved, but hey, I hate rebuilding diffs at the track, so I did everything I could think of to prevent it.

Sure, it may weigh some extra, but especialy club racing, it makes this car far more manageable.

If this post is too long or irrelevant, please move it to another thread Jimmy:wtf:

And let me know if this helped.

Cheers

[speedworm]

i finish 12 on 60 in French Nats with this set up:thumbsup:

http://yokomo.blogspot.com/2008/03/mr4-bx-w-set-up-moquette.html#links

[speedworm]

Finish 4th during the last french championship with this set up.

http://yokomo.blogspot.com/2008/05/set-up-yokomo-bx-we-pau.html

[sosidge]

I hope nobody minds if I put a B-MAX4 setup in this thread... if this seems wrong then perhaps we could have a new sticky for them?

Anyway, this is the setup I settled on during the NE indoor regional series this winter. The tracks have all been multisurface with grip ranging from none to loads during the course of a single lap, and some big obstacles and tricky bumps too.

I'm not in a position to make any great claims about winning A finals (or B finals for that matter :cry:), but I found this setup easy to drive, calming the B-MAX4's steering down, improving traction and jumping, while maintaining it's lovely ride quality.

Also worth noting that I did not break a single part on the car with the exception of some front shock mounting screws (solve this by putting some spacers on before the nuts to conceal the exposed thread), and one set of rear bevel gears (my fault - mesh is CRITICAL on this car - NO backlash - make SURE the transmission rolls freely at the same time).

If you do give it a try please let me know how you find it, it would be interesting to compare notes.

DA's B-MAX4 Indoor Setup (http://www.sosidge.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/b-max4_indoors_da.pdf)

[Arn0]

Bmax 4 setups (http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/SetupSheetsYokomoBMax4.html) with the lattest Tom Yardy setup @ Talywain, based on comments made by Tom (http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost.php?p=239932&postcount=4)

[Yardeeee]

Thanks Arn0 that's perfect.

[Arn0]

Bmax 4 setups (http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/SetupSheetsYokomoBMax4.html) with the lattest Tom Yardy setup @ Talywain, based on comments made by Tom (http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost.php?p=239932&postcount=4)
Tom's setup from Oswestry in PDF added (http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/SetupSheetsYokomoBMax4.html), based on what Tom provides on this thread. (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24921)

[Gonky]

Nice one! :)

[U.S.CAT3K]

Would anyone have baseline gearing for a very tight and bumpy dirt track, Komodo Dragon 19T, BX? Started at 24/81 and ended the day at 27/81....straight line speed was getting much better, so I feel I was going in the right direction, but I still couldn't finish any of my 5-minute heats as it seems the motor was getting too hot and the car would start to slow and eventually stop moving (steering still worked, so I'm wondering how much the charge in the batteries influenced this). The shutting down could've been my batteries (having my GFX updated for lipos and had to use my Triton that weekend), but the motor definitely smelled like it was getting hot and the color of the comm confirmed it (was red with the 24 and became lighter in color every tooth I went up on the pinion). The motor had one race night on it previously and was properly broken in, though I've now switched to silver brushes since the stockers have blued on the ends.

Am I close with the gearing? Would going to an 84 or 87 spur help?

Thanks!

EDIT: upon researching it a bit, it looks like the 81 tooth spur is probably too small for how tight the track is, so I'll try the stock 84 and report back. On another note, I really like the BX so far.....great steering and bump handling comparable to my XX4 and will likely be more durable. Kind of surprised the car didn't do better in the U.S. For anyone still running this car, Bastos' French Nationals setup from PetitRC is a great baseline for dirt....the specified white springs are somewhat stiff for really rough tracks, so I'm going to try the softer Yok springs from the optional spring set to tone down some of the bounce and lengthen the front camber links to see if I can get a little more steering throughout the end of the turns.

I should also mention that dirt ingress into the drivetrain wasn't a problem; running Shadows' vinyl diff covers and a piece of tire foam stuffed into the outdrive to protect the thrust bearings, the diffs stayed smooth all day. I also used a small pick to remove any small pieces of dirt that found their way into the rear diff gear after every round, which I also had to do with my CAT 3000, though I don't remember ever reading about dirt getting stuck in the pulleys being as big a problem in that car.

[woOdy]

I thought I would just say I have bought myself a 2009 and straight out of the box with AE silver springs all round and even the box shock oils, It was the nicest 4wd car I have ever driven. So nice and safe. What a relaxing car to drive. This measn to me that I can afford to not push it towards the 110% mark and crash. I can just drive it safe and still be quick.
The only thing I wanted was a little more turn in which putting a washer under the front outer camber link ball stud gave me. I also went to AE blue springs on the front as it was very dry and very grippy. I then put the wing mounts in the low possition which made the car unstable over high speed bumps and over jumps. Raised it back again and it was planted.
I have all the camber links as the book says so for the first impressions this car is ACE.

[chokoboy]

:confused: Where can i find Tom or Jorn's B-max4 setups from euro in Bilbao?
Jimmy any help?

[Arn0]

:confused: Where can i find Tom or Jorn's B-max4 setups from euro in Bilbao?
Jimmy any help?
I have a incompete setup of Jörn's car, you can find it here (http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/SetupSheetsYokomoBMax4.html) but remind there is missing data such the most important to me sense, oil and piston!

[fastinfastout]

does anyone have matsukura's hot rod hobbies set up?

[blitzboy]

right guys thought i d put this up as the car ran so well for me
front
middle hole on tower
outer hole on wishbone
losi shock
shaft lenght 23mm
losi red piston
32.5 weight losi oil with losi red piston
.5 degree toe out
2 deg camber
1mm spacer on inside hole on top of the hub
inner hole on tower for turnbuckle
front hubs down
standard diff
front blocks as kit set up
front drive shafts level
ride height 21mm side of chassis

rear
middle hole on tower
outside hole on wishbone
X5 losi shocks
3o mm shaft length put 4mm spacer inside shock to reduce droop
30 weight losi oil with losi red piston
1.2 mm roll bar
rear hubs on short wheel base
rear blocks as kit set up
rear turnbuckles as kit position
2 deg camber
ride height 22 mm
standard diff

mine is the 09 spec kit so ugraded the out drives to light weight and spur was 87 as kit spur and 21 pinion
motor was 6.5 epic
vampire lipos
lrp speedo tc spec

60 grams lead under each lipos

will say this is about the best set up i ve had for worksop and the kit ran well if i ve missed anything then feel free to pm me and ill get back to you
:thumbsup:cheers g

[grapejuice]

Any one have a lipo set-up for the b-max, I'm running on an indoor, clay, high bite track with the champ shocks. Most set-ups I'm finding are using nickel metals. Thanks

[blitzboy]

grape juice you should be fine to go with 60 grams of lead under each lipos buddy as for set up cant say but the euros set up would be my starting point ,, hope it helps ya

[grapejuice]

Probably going to play with one of the Yatabe set-ups, just don't know which one, they are very different. The newest one shows 3 degrees positive camber, 3 degrees toe-out and a really low ride height. Anyone have experience with the yatabe set-ups?

[MHeadling]

Mr Yardy, can you post up your latest Nationals set ups?

I'm interested in the EPR set up in particular

[Yardeeee]

setup sheet attached for EPR.

Same setup as used at other national tracks except the shock oil was 5 wt heavier each end at EPR.

[MHeadling]

Cheers Tom for the speedy reply!

I'll give your set up a go!

[Arn0]

I took a couple of minute to make a pdf of Tom' setup sheet (http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/setupbmax4/BMax4_TomYardy_EdenParkRaceway20100606.html)

For some other, refer here (http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5492&postcount=2)

HTH

[MHeadling]

Cheers Arn0 for making it a PDF, makes it nice and easy to print off

[flipside]

Hi!

Anyone has a good base setup for clay (euro's 2010)? Preferably for non big bore shocks :-)

Thanks,

wouter

[feniks]

yep have a good one for you if you would like it.

[kikefu]

And anyone got the B-Max4 euro's Setup? I have a race in a very similar track here in Spain and that would be much appreciated...

[evertonal]

Hi,
Does anyone have any indoor set-ups for racing on quite grippy carpet, using big bores?

What springs?
What shock oil?
Extra weight added?
etc etc.

[ottoswe]

evertonal.. indoors i´ve come up with f35/r30wt oil. black pistons. green front springs, orange rear. middle on tower front and rear.

inner on front wishbone. outer on rear.

tight front diff.. 2mm schims on front camber links.. standard holes front and rear. and front wishbone mount is flipped upside down.

this is with slicks schumacher tires and additive. no swaybar.

[ottoswe]

kikefu, check out the setup section on petitrc.com

jörn neumanns two euro setups is there.

[kikefu]

Thanks a lot Otto! I didn't see the one at the bottom.

[evertonal]

Does anyone run a sway bar (aka anti roll bar) on the front end of their b-max. Looking at the pics of Tom Yardy's b-max at the Stotfold national, he is running a front sway bar. I have never tried this before, anyone else tried it, especially on astro? Did it help or hinder, in particular does it give or allow a faster turn in?

[fastinfastout]

the whole point of having a roll bar is to reduce roll. Generally when your putting a sway bar, it will produce less grip, so putting it on the front 'should' reduce the bite on the front.

[Yardeeee]

I tend to use roll bars at both ends of the car, normally 1.2 at each end. The main reason for this is that the Yoke is quite a heavy vehicle and as such, creates a lot of body roll which is often a positive handling characteristic, but if you are racing on a technical, high bite track that requires fast/smooth change of direction, I find the roll bars are crucial.

The front bar in particular makes the car much more responsive, but if you regularly race on expansive flowing tracks which don't offer particularly high bite, it will likely be more of a hinderance.

[Arnefles]

Does anyone have a good setup for clay/bumpy to the bx (not the bx-w)?

I find some at petit but they are old and I'd like a new one.

Please help.

Friendly.

Arne

[NoobRCDriver]

Hello,

Can someone help me with these setting? as in what exactly they are.:confused:

[J'MM'N]

The blocks have the hinge pin holes slightly offset and are design so one or both can be fitted upside down, to adjust anti squat angle.

On that setting both have the hinge pin holes in the lower position.

[NoobRCDriver]

The blocks have the hinge pin holes slightly offset and are design so one or both can be fitted upside down, to adjust anti squat angle.

On that setting both have the hinge pin holes in the lower position.

"to adjust anti squat angle" is there a number related to each? Take the TLR 22, it uses degrees, something i can get my head around. I'm just trying to understand so i can make an educated guess/adjustment.

[discostu]

dont forget

front block up and rear block up is the same anti squat as
front block down rear block down but the roll centre is different

stu

[NoobRCDriver]

dont forget

front block up and rear block up is the same anti squat as
front block down rear block down but the roll centre is different

stu

but what's the anti-squat?

[discostu]

it doesnt realy matter either

max anti squat middle anti squat or less anti squat unless you are comparing to another car its irelevent.

stu

[NoobRCDriver]

dont forget

front block up and rear block up is the same anti squat as
front block down rear block down but the roll centre is different

stu

it doesnt realy matter either

max anti squat middle anti squat or less anti squat unless you are comparing to another car its irelevent.

stu

OK, so..
1. F-up, R-up is HRC?

2. F-down, R-down is LRC?

3. F-down, R-up is less anti-squat?

4. F-up, R-down is more anti-squat?

[discostu]

OK, so..
1. F-up, R-up is HRC?

2. F-down, R-down is LRC?

3. F-down, R-up is less anti-squat?

4. F-up, R-down is more anti-squat?

Ok now you have established high and low roll centre and more or less anti squat in TLR terminology what next?

[blue_pinky]

but what's the anti-squat?

Not sure if your asking for what antisquat is, or what the actual angle is on the bmax....so....

You can adjust the angle of the rear hinge pins for both anti squat and toe angles.

Anti squat is the vertical angle of the rear hinge pin (as opposed to toe in which is obviously the horizontal angle)...on any car it's typically set with the front of the hinge pin a little higher than the rear of the hinge pin...hence the angle number that the losi, and most cars describe it with.

As people have described already, if you lift/lower both the front and rear ends of the hinge pin with the blocks, you won't be changing the anti squat.

Simple description of the anti squat adjustment...more anti squat (lifting the front end of the hingepin, so increasing the angle) gives better lift of jumps and bumps, but reduces side bite, and vice versa.

They don't seem to tell you what the actual angle is on this car, so all you can do as go for more or less based on the settings available, and the setting you are currently using.

[NoobRCDriver]

OK, so..
1. F-up, R-up is HRC?

2. F-down, R-down is LRC?

3. F-down, R-up is less anti-squat?

4. F-up, R-down is more anti-squat?

Not sure if your asking for what antisquat is, or what the actual angle is on the bmax....so....

You can adjust the angle of the rear hinge pins for both anti squat and toe angles.

Anti squat is the vertical angle of the rear hinge pin (as opposed to toe in which is obviously the horizontal angle)...on any car it's typically set with the front of the hinge pin a little higher than the rear of the hinge pin...hence the angle number that the losi, and most cars describe it with.

As people have described already, if you lift/lower both the front and rear ends of the hinge pin with the blocks, you won't be changing the anti squat.

Simple description of the anti squat adjustment...more anti squat (lifting the front end of the hingepin, so increasing the angle) gives better lift of jumps and bumps, but reduces side bite, and vice versa.

They don't seem to tell you what the actual angle is on this car, so all you can do as go for more or less based on the settings available, and the setting you are currently using.

Thanks discostu and blue.

Wouldn't #3 also = RHC?
and #4 would be LHC?

Blue, i was looking for an actual angle.

i thought the only way to change the toe angle of the rear on a bmax4 was to buy different rear hubs?

[discostu]

i suppose you could measure it as long as you measure pin heights from the same datum point you could probably work out what the degree angle is.

stu

[OneKiwi]

Where are all the setups for the MR2??
There aren't that many on petitrc

[mes]

Maybe the kit set-up is just too good. ;)
Ran the car in rear configuration today in Troisdorf (sandy astro) with worn Multibytes in the rear and high-profile Staggers up front, 1 degree aluminum hubs. The only thing I changed was taking the shims from the rear camber link and adding them to the front. Although my Max was slightly slower (non-blinki SXX and Vampire Bloodline 17.5) than the LRP Challenge guys with their blinki 13.5 turns X12 motors, I ended up second overall. Not too bad for running the first time on our new track layout without any previous practice! :thumbsup:

[OneKiwi]

So where are everyones setups?

I tried the car indoors yesterday on carpet with slicks (thats what we are allowed here) and liked it. All I changed was a harder rear spring from avid white to yellow but I am still looking for a little more steering.

Flat landings/over jump from maybe 1m height (only one of those jumps) will bottom but not bounce that much

Thoughts are welcome

https://www.dropbox.com/s/metcns95pkdoz1z/Simon%20Frost%20V8%20first%20run%20indoors.pdf

[JustARcFan]

Did anybody try the 2hole black 1.6mm pistons?

Thanks

[ColbyWillardUSA]

That is what i have and i ve been told its good but i am one hand down so i cant drive good. but i need a good mid motor indoor carpet set up. any one got one!

[OneKiwi]

Try my one or really anyone of the ones for smooth astro on the petit site or in this thread.
I haven't changed a lot from the outdoor settings which is a suprise for me. Maybe Im just getting better :woot:

I worked a little more on my setup (3 posts up) and have 15% dragbrake and 2x10gm (20gm total)up front instead of 10 total.

Best change today was I tried a shorty foward in the battery hole and thought it worked really well. This will be my go to setup for now.

Still looking for a little more on power steering... suggestions?

I also tried the narrow bulkhead thinking that I might gain a heap more steering but wasn't any difference so went back to the standard.

I think that tires (slicks) are playing a big part with on power steering, but Im happy with how it is working out with it only being the second time on carpet with the yok

[skyaflake]

My car gained a lot of steering when I went softer in shock oil in the front. It was just too much for my local track. :thumbsup:

[neallewis]

My BMAX2 MR Batley Outdoor track setup:
http://courgette.jml.net/~neal/RC/Bmax2MR_NealLewis_Batley_Outdoor.pdf

Also used in Cullingworth and York Indoor tracks, with different tires.

[skyaflake]

I used this setup on a tight indoor setup: http://teamyokomo.nl/setups/BMAX2MR/BMAX2MR_MIO_BASE_SV.pdf

Still needs work, but for me it's a good starting setup for a tight indoor track.

[OneKiwi]

After a few changes here is my new setup
I am using TD springs that sit "ok" under the collars. Ill be looking at making them a little larger or getting another brand.

I also gave the tires a really good clean (slicks with addative) and this helped

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ajz53f7wqujf9ty/Simon%20Frost%20changes.pdf

[janus_77]

Here is my current setup, also used it on indoor carpet. Changed the tires and front springs, and it was good to go.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/setupbmax2/Bmax2MR_ArjanVanDeGraaf_Vlijmen201310/

[sfry61]

Here is my current setup, also used it on indoor carpet. Changed the tires and front springs, and it was good to go.

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/setupbmax2/Bmax2MR_ArjanVanDeGraaf_Vlijmen201310/

What front springs did you change to for the carpet? :confused:

Steve

[janus_77]

What front springs did you change to for the carpet? :confused:

Steve

Since it was indoor carpet I went to Losi Green. If its real astro you may need to go to bleu

[OneKiwi]

My latest setup its working really well lots of steering and with ARB

https://www.dropbox.com/s/new1r1iils8xj2y/Simon%20Frost%20with%20ARB.pdf

Remember:
Its with slicks and addative
My driving style
Small track

[Allan1875]

Here are my latest grass setups:

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/setupyz2/YZ2_AllanOBrien_Falkirk20150419/

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/yokomo/setupbmax4/Bmax4III_AllanOBrien_Falkirk20150419/