Lunsford shock mounts

[spiro]

http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/7302%20copy.jpg

I see this item listed as compatible with B4/T4/TC4. Any reason why it can't be used with the B44 as well? I thought the shock mounts on the B4 and B44 was the same...

http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=LUNS&Product_Code=7302&Category_Code=SHMO

-S-

[peetbee]

Interesting, would let you change shock position without having to take the shocks off the bolt. I can't see any reason why it wouldn't fit the B44 unless you've fitted thicker shock towers.
Lot of money to spend to just save a couple of minutes tho!

[coolcars782]

I like them :)

And they should fit, unless of course you got thicker towers.

[Darren Boyle]

The reason they list them for certian types of cars is indeed to do with the towers (and tower material) on each car. B4 is "thick" plastic towers on front and rear (as was T4 and TC4) the B44 is thinner carbon towers on front and rear and then older cars like the B2 and B3 were thick tower (plastic) on the rear and then thin (FRP or carbon) on the front. Each set has mounts made to the exact thickness needed for each type of car (and its relevant shock tower thickness), but often they are all still VERY close to fitting each other etc.....

[Lonestar]

just reverse the bolts so the nut is on the other side, et voila, free quick change mounts... pic on my former B4 (hope it resizes:D)

http://www.overrc.com/courses/courses2010/siorc23012010/IMG_3962.JPG

[Lonestar]

didn't resize - oh well :bored:

[Lonestar]

another view- clearer prolly (still huuuuge though!)

http://www.overrc.com/courses/courses2010/siorc23012010/IMG_3961.JPG

[Darren Boyle]

The only problem with that way is that you cannot take just the shock off without disrupting the whole lot, with the quick tunes you can take just the shock off with one nut or move shock tower position with just one nut also...

[Lonestar]

The only problem with that way is that you cannot take just the shock off without disrupting the whole lot, with the quick tunes you can take just the shock off with one nut or move shock tower position with just one nut also...


er... that's the very purpose of this setup. watch again how it's mounted. yes I can... put 4/40 (or whatever the size is) allen wrench in socket head (back of the car) to prevent screw from turning when unscrewing bolt (front), then unscrew the 4/40 nut, move in or out, screw nut back on, done. takes about 5s per shock... just like the lunsford bits, just a little less shiny, and a lot less expensive :p

Paul

[JonMack]

All I can see is a bolt with two nuts on, this means you can move the whole shock between mounting points on the tower, but you can't take the shock off and leave the mount in the same position like you can with the Lunsford ones, can you?!

[Lonestar]

ok. let's start all over. the key purpose of the lunsford bits is too change shock tower positions in a few seconds by decoupling the shock "mount" from the way it's attached to the tower, so one can try shock positions in a short time without having to walk back to the pits - right?

as shown, the setup I use does the trick. Socket head, inverted shock bushing, (inverted in this case), 4/40 locknut screwed "backwards" - this is the "fixed assembly". then there is thread sticking out, this is equivalent to the short-end of the lunsford bit. This is what goes through the tower, and then another 4/40 nut secures it.

Now - granted, I can't leave the mount on the car and take the shock out indeed, this the $25 lunsford mounts do... But I don't really see this as an issue, when I redo my shocks, well, I leave the mounts attached to the cap, not an issue really... even makes things easier when you want to tighten them well.

Yes, I know, the lunsford bits and the RPM shock tool work well too... but they set you back $30 ;) I'd rather buy two sets of tires instead :)

Paul

[Darren Boyle]

All I can see is a bolt with two nuts on, this means you can move the whole shock between mounting points on the tower, but you can't take the shock off and leave the mount in the same position like you can with the Lunsford ones, can you?!

Thanks you for that, that was the point I was trying to make....

You can move postion like the Lunsfords that way, but CANNOT remove the shock without taking all the mounts and everything off, with Lunsfords way, you can either move shock postion OR remove shock with just one nut.............

[Lonestar]

re-read your answer DMS - you are correct, I cannot indeed just take the shock and leave the mount on. Then again I don't consider this an issue as long as it allows me to quickly experiment with shock tower hole, to me that's what matters :)

Paul

[Lonestar]

my last answer crossed yours :D

I love the lunsford bits, tbh... I just cant justify spending $25 when four $0.25 4/40 screws deliver 95% of the service ;)

Paul

[JonMack]

Now - granted, I can't leave the mount on the car and take the shock out indeed, this the $25 lunsford mounts do...

Pretty sure that's the point Darren was making, your solution is good for allowing you to change the shock position on the tower faster than other setups, but it doesn't allow you to take the shock off like the Lunsfords do.

Ah well, unless you're willing to buy the lunsford mounts, you're either going to be able to remove your shocks quickly, or move the position quickly... you decide :P

[Darren Boyle]

IMHO, the primary purpose of getting a shock off would be to do routine work on it, cleaning, pistons changes or oil changes (which are all fairly frequent) waht Lunsford have done is to make changing position on the tower easy AS WELL. Your way is great for the tower changing etc, but the everyday stuff will now take longer with the chance of losing more bits etc due to how much has to come off......

[Lonestar]

I service my shocks all the time, at the track, in my workshop at home, and most of the servicing, afaik, is done with the cap off, except in the first few seconds and until the very end. I leave the mount attached to the cap (but not to the tower!!! :D) when I change oil, piston, limiters, or green-slime the orings and the cap is resting somewhere on my workbench or my pit table... the fact that there's a bolt+bushing attached to the cap during that time isn't really an issue... at least not one that's worth $25 to me.

to me the lunsford bits' primary function looks like setup-changing in a breeze.. not facilitating shock maintenance, as the stock kit setup (bolt+screw) allows to service the shock in exactly the same time as the lunsford, by uncrewing one bolt...

But I sure do respect what you guys pointed out, I just didn't get it the first time around as it was such a non-issue to me ;)

Cheers
Paul

[spiro]

Hohoo! Bucket'o'worms, this one turned out to be.:p

Thanks for the respones girls, they were all(most) useful. I do have a single standard tower at the moment, but I'll prolly do the double-tower-trick before my first crack instead of afterwards. This means that the nifty trick by Paul will be preferred. Of course, I understand that this won't let me remove just the shock, but as I understand it, it will still make it possible to remove the shock with just undoing one nut. (With the bolt still attached to cap.)

The only advantage I can see with the Lunsford bits, that I believe hasn't been pointed out yet, is that when you remove both shocks you don't have to remember hole position as the bits are left in the tower. The Lonestar-method demands a minimum of brain activity as well. That's got bad news written all over it for me.

Actually, this gave me an idea as I'm writing this post.

1) Grab a loooong screw.
2) Enter a normal nut or lock-nut, apply insanely stiff thread lock at desired point and pass nut over it.
3) Dremel of the head of the screw.

Voila, you have a Lunsford-bit-rip-off with long enough threads for thick towers. Ok, you can go ahead and call me flattering names now.

[JonMack]

Actually, this gave me an idea as I'm writing this post.

1) Grab a loooong screw.
2) Enter a normal nut or lock-nut, apply insanely stiff thread lock at desired point and pass nut over it.
3) Dremel of the head of the screw.

Voila, you have a Lunsford-bit-rip-off with long enough threads for thick towers. Ok, you can go ahead and call me flattering names now.

I was thinking something similar, or a very long grub screw (http://www.modelfixings.co.uk/stainless_grub_screws.htm) so you've always got an allen head at one end for holding onto...

[RickRick]

i used the lunsford ones on my b4 and also tc4 the b4 ones got bent fair quickly from upside down landings, so i won't be bothering with them again

[spiro]

i used the lunsford ones on my b4 and also tc4 the b4 ones got bent fair quickly from upside down landings, so i won't be bothering with them again
Now that's useful info. For the price of them, I'd expect better. Guess I'll try my DIY solution first.

-S-

[Lonestar]

Now that's useful info. For the price of them, I'd expect better. Guess I'll try my DIY solution first.

-S-


your idea is good :thumbsup: make sure you use some serious quality steel screw to withstand the load. The challenge will also be to be able to grip the loctite'd nut with the right pliers... use some bada$$ red stuff too :)

Paul

[spiro]

your idea is good :thumbsup: make sure you use some serious quality steel screw to withstand the load. The challenge will also be to be able to grip the loctite'd nut with the right pliers... use some bada$$ red stuff too :)

Paul
I'm guessing a pretty normal rc grade screws will do the trick, as the original shockmount is basically just that. A normal screw with nuts on. As for grip, a basic wrench should do the trick.

Now, how about supergluing red locktite to araldite and then apply to my nuts? Will that stop them from bouncing? :woot: (Now there's a sentence no one has heard before!)

-S-

[Lonestar]

I'm guessing a pretty normal rc grade screws will do the trick, as the original shockmount is basically just that.

yes, but on your assembly, you will have nuts on both sides (alrite, no stupid jokes pls) which will provide more "grab" when flipped upside down that a screw head and a nut.

Either way it should work :)

supergluing red loctite araldite works, as long as you weld it on top just for good measure :p

Paul