View Full Version : Durga ??
Lowie
31-10-2010, 05:00 PM
WHat about the DB01, the Durga-model? I mean, I recall this model being presented as a low cost 4WD buggy, with capability to race for a novice ...
Is it still being raced? I checked local shops and the model has even desappeared from their shoplist.
I also noticed now that I don't recall Tamiya bringing out much improvement kits, parts, as they do for other racing models.
My son's DF02 Rising storm is so beaten up that I rather buy him a new car .. and i was thinking about the Durga.
But is it still "alive" or is a buggy that has proven not being as race-ready as it was intended to be?
Carno
31-10-2010, 06:25 PM
There's lots of hop-ups for the db-01.
But it's smarter to just buy the db-01r which has most of them installed already.
The downside is that it doesn't come with a body/wing or tires and it's almost as expensive as a B44.
lazyboy12300
31-10-2010, 07:36 PM
The DB01's are definitely race-able. I recently got one second hand for a play indoors over winter. I had my first race today at ardent and it was not outclassed at all. I qualified about 30th which I was happy with as it is very different to my usual nitro's. There was still a lot to come from it and I was changing small things each round and was improving vastly.
Although mine has quite a few hopups I feel that it is well up to mixing it with more expensive brands.
Think it is worth getting the DB01R unless you can get a second hand one with some hopups
peetbee
31-10-2010, 07:41 PM
if you're going to get one new then start with the db01r, but check the price of b44, etc as you may be surprised how they compare, especially if dealers start offloading the B44 before the B44.1 comes along
I run a DB01 alongside my 501x and on some tracks the DB01 is faster. Only downside is thats there's a few hundred Ģ in the car so its not any cheaper than a 501 or even a 511 so its not really a sensible route. But yes, the car is more than able to mix with the other kits.
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd349/mark_dyson/TRF02.jpg
jameswilkinson7
31-10-2010, 08:12 PM
I run a DB01 alongside my 501x and on some tracks the DB01 is faster. Only downside is thats there's a few hundred Ģ in the car so its not any cheaper than a 501 or even a 511 so its not really a sensible route. But yes, the car is more than able to mix with the other kits.
http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd349/mark_dyson/TRF02.jpg
2 OLD NAILS there Mark!:p:p:p:woot:
If it is for your boy, buy the DB-01, slipper, front CVD's (Tamiya) and 3Racing suspension blocks, be cheap as chips until you start putting decent power through it.
2 OLD NAILS there Mark!:p:p:p:woot:
Here we go :rolleyes:
I think mine has come in pretty cheap, not upgraded much really, rear outdrives, driveshafts, slipper and shocks, shop wisely and it is much cheaper than a TRF
Lowie
31-10-2010, 09:46 PM
thx guys,
that 's really good info there.
Also the idea of a cheaper car for my son, ... which can be pimped up, tuned up later on ... IF needed.
But as he runs a very low motor ATM there is no real need.
Other then that ... I'm still looking for any shop selling the DB01 or the DB01r
... and can ship fast as we will be needing a 4WD car for nov, 14th.
Also, can someone point me out to a link/more info on teh difference between the DB01 and the DB01r? I'm off goodling it now, but all info is appreciated.
And, .. what seems to B the difference between the Durga and the Baldr? Haven't figured that out yet neither
thx guys,
that 's really good info there.
Also the idea of a cheaper car for my son, ... which can be pimped up, tuned up later on ... IF needed.
But as he runs a very low motor ATM there is no real need.
Other then that ... I'm still looking for any shop selling the DB01 or the DB01r
... and can ship fast as we will be needing a 4WD car for nov, 14th.
Also, can someone point me out to a link/more info on teh difference between the DB01 and the DB01r? I'm off goodling it now, but all info is appreciated.
And, .. what seems to B the difference between the Durga and the Baldr? Haven't figured that out yet neither
Here's what the DB01R has compared to DB01:
54142 DB01 High-Traction Lower Arm (Rear)
54141 DB01 High-Traction Lower Arm (Front)
54140 DB01 Reinforced Drive Belt - 369mm
54040 DB01 Motor Heat Sink
54039 DB01 Aluminum Suspension Block
54038 DB01 Aluminium Suspension mount (Rear)
54037 DB01 Aluminium Suspension Mount (front)
54036 Carbon Reinforced - M-parts (Damper Stay)
54028 TRF Buggy Dampers
54018 DB01 Slipper Clutch Set
54016 DB01 Assembly Universal Shaft - Rear
54015 DB01 Assembly Universal Shaft - Front
50994 5mm Suspension ball
*main chassis specific to DB01R
And it is very much worth the cost over DB01.
The difference between DB01 Durga and DB01 Baldre is the body, stickers and possibly the colour of the wheels. Nothing else. In my opinion the Baldre body is both better looking and better in terms of keeping the dirt out, too. But on the other hand, I would not consider it a deal breaker wether the store only had Durga in stock.
muratti
01-11-2010, 09:37 AM
DURGA
http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index.php?firma=Tamiya&best=58395&name=Durga-4WD-Buggy-DB-01-Chassis-1-10
BALDRE
http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index.php?firma=Tamiya&best=58404&name=Baldre-4WD-Buggy-DB-01-Chassis-1-10
DB01R
http://www.modellbau-seidel.de/index.php?firma=Tamiya&best=84100&name=DB-01R-Chassis-Bausatz-ohne-Karosserie-
Itīs a German Shop that has all the cars in stock. They ship so ast that i believe you can have the car at home before the 14th.
They have a great service and i used them many times before.
I have a Db01R and must say it is the much cheaper car depending on what Hop Ups you get.
Lowie
01-11-2010, 10:29 AM
thx!!
I understood that the DB01R comes without rims, tyres, body? So if I choose to buy the R, I will still have to find these separatly.
Any info on what body's will suit this car? Or should I choose for the Baldr- or Durga-body for any particular reason?
(That german site seems to have the Durga-body in stock also :) )
Also, I read in other posts that one can use other brand rims ... but not 100% fitting??
Lowie
01-11-2010, 10:51 AM
did some checking and it seems that the DB01R still misses the alu diff-outdrives? Or am i wrong?
Might be an important hop-up.
thx!!
I understood that the DB01R comes without rims, tyres, body? So if I choose to buy the R, I will still have to find these separatly.
Any info on what body's will suit this car? Or should I choose for the Baldr- or Durga-body for any particular reason?
(That german site seems to have the Durga-body in stock also :) )
Also, I read in other posts that one can use other brand rims ... but not 100% fitting??
Correct, not all similar rims fit perfectly. The hex is too deep in many of them. But there is nothing wrong with the Tamiya rims, so you can just use them :)
Baldre body has the best fit on the chassis (keeps most of the dirt out). With Durga body there are openings that might need to be filled with something (at least the standard Durga kit comes with material for this).
Even if you do need to find the tires/rims/body/wing (wing is included with the Baldre body kit, but not Durga, though), it is still worth it to buy the R.
did some checking and it seems that the DB01R still misses the alu diff-outdrives? Or am i wrong?
Might be an important hop-up.
No alu outdrives, but I would recommend the 501/511 steel outdrives instead anyway over alu outdrives.
The DB01R outdrives work ok, but the 501/511 ones are of course better. Or you could get a gear diff in there and forget about the outdrives for now :)
Lowie
01-11-2010, 11:46 AM
is there a gear diff that will fit this car??
That sounds like a very interesting idea.
There is one but it's done to the same scale as my mid motor and is very expensive. Unfortunately Spec-R have not seen fit to make one for the TA05 (which would most likely fit).
muratti
01-11-2010, 01:02 PM
Lowie, iīd recommend to buy the DB01R and the Baldre Bodyset plus wheels from the German site. They have the yellow, black and white wheels in stock as well as the car and Baldre Bodyset.
The Outdrives are nice to have and a Must Have if you have a hot motor. I have them on my DB01R, part number is 51286. Modellbau Seidel hasnīt got them in stock iīm afraid as well as any other shop i know, these seem to be pretty rare. RC Champ in Japan can order them for you from Tamiya for sure as i bought some from them some weeks ago.
If you donīt want to go that way just buy the 3 Racing ones, but they are out of aluminium and wonīt last as long as the Tamiya steel ones but will still do the job.
Carno
01-11-2010, 03:58 PM
If you're not going to put a lot of power in it, i wouldn't get the steel outdrives yet.
a Mate runs the db-01R with the original outdrives on our clay track with a 6.5 and he hasn't had any issues so far.
Carpet would probably be a different story.
I also order a lot of stuff at Seidel as no lhs stock TRF parts(or db-01 parts for that matter).
I don't know how fast he delivers to the UK but to NL it's between 3-4 days usually.
*I just noticed you're from belgium so that should be 3-4 days.
PS.
Get black wheels. White and yellow are outdated. :D
http://www.oople.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=561&pictureid=3351
muratti
03-11-2010, 03:43 PM
Here are the Outdrives 51286 by Tamiya:
http://www.vellrip.com/store/product_details.asp?p=983&c=47
Lowie
04-11-2010, 01:19 AM
thx Muratti ;)
You only really need steel outdrives when you put more than a 13.5 in there.
CVD's on the front.
Slipper.
Aluminium suspension mount.
Thats the essentials over a stock kit.
then get shocks (Tamiya are best, but B4 ones fit)
Losi wheels fit
rear CVD's
Bearings for the steering
Better diff balls and thrust race.
Lowie
16-11-2010, 06:24 PM
well guys, thx for all info.
I bought the car online (modellbau-seidel.de, delivery within 3 days!). It became a DB-01R.
The build was a breese (Tamiya-quality :) ) and as my son was not racing this weekend, I tried the car myself.
It was the stock setup, and on a full astroturf indoortrack so the setup was much too soft.
But with a little adjusting the car became very fun to drive.
It is just faboulous, knowing that you are competing with a plastic 230,00-car againts much pricier carbon cars :)
muratti
16-11-2010, 10:09 PM
Just as i told you. Was a pleasure for me helping you. The DB01R is indeed a very competitive car!
Lowie
22-12-2010, 10:02 PM
just a litle update on my DB-01-adventure.
I raced the car at the BlackCountryArena in Charleroi, Belgium the past weekend. It is an indoor astrotrack.
I added the yellow rollbars front and rear. Shockoil 60 Fr and35 R (Losi)
blue springs in the Front
Shum Yellow Minispikes as we run usually on this track.
I have raced 4WD before with a Predator. I improved over time and learned a lot about setup.
But I never got further then D or C-final (we only have 4 finals usually).
This time, with the DB-01 I BQ'd :p and still found that I was going slow. :eh?:
I like that little plastic low-budget car :)
It is an awesome car to run!
Btw, I broke 3 out of 4 of the included high-traction arms that come with the DB-01R within about 5 practice sessions. Both rear arms broke on the same pack (as far as I can tell). Nothing crazy, normal track driving, with some bad landings here and there.
The TRF501X arms are much stronger, and the DB-01 arms are cheap, and strong but slightly flexible. The softer plastic doesn't hold screw threads as well, so I would recommend drilling in the shock mounting holes with a 2.5mm drill bit to extend the screw holes further. The outermost and innermost holes can go all the way through the other side. The middle hole can be deepened another 4mm so you can use a longer (15mm) screw.
I agree with the high traction arms, but the kit DB-01 arms, never had an issue with pulling threads, apart from old age!
dimblum
23-12-2010, 09:20 PM
I used to break several high traction arms until I stiffened my shocks a bit.. I was running my shocks too soft and bottoming out on landings too often. The high traction arms will snap pretty easy when this happens.. Try switching to higher tension springs with the same oil and see if the problem goes away.. I used Team Associated springs which had a better feel for the hard pack dirt tracks I race on..
Stiffening the springs actually helped my driving compared to the softer spring settings I was using before.
Btw, I broke 3 out of 4 of the included high-traction arms that come with the DB-01R within about 5 practice sessions. Both rear arms broke on the same pack (as far as I can tell). Nothing crazy, normal track driving, with some bad landings here and there.
The TRF501X arms are much stronger, and the DB-01 arms are cheap, and strong but slightly flexible. The softer plastic doesn't hold screw threads as well, so I would recommend drilling in the shock mounting holes with a 2.5mm drill bit to extend the screw holes further. The outermost and innermost holes can go all the way through the other side. The middle hole can be deepened another 4mm so you can use a longer (15mm) screw.
Lowie
23-12-2010, 10:38 PM
what are the differences (benefits, changes in car-behaviour) when using ...
... the dual slipper over the simple slipper?
... the front One-Way
... centre One-way
are these items vital, important or just an expensive gizmo?
DaveG28
30-12-2010, 10:02 PM
Double slipper: I find it a little nicer landing from jumps than a single, not much difference though!?
Not sure on the one ways!!
Would anyone be interested in a DB01R by the way!? Might sell mine, either standard + double slipper + 511 outdrives + Ali steering arms plus atomic shock towers, or with all that plus hopups including gold shock bodies and shock shafts, blue turnbuckles!?
It has a Tonys screws set on it too, and the shell is uncut/unpainted
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