bevel gears!!

[bretts]

anyone had trouble with the bevel gears.

when I landed off the jumps (while on the power) I heard a crunch from the gear box. so, I stripped down the front gear box there were some little white bits of plastic in there. I put new gears in, but I'm sure it might do it again. I haven't looked at the rear gear box yet cos I've hurt my hand so I can't grip a screw driver very well :(

i've tried moving the shims about so it meshes closer, but then the drive train sounds too tight.

It's worse with the one-way in but is there a cure?

bretts

[stefke]

Check if you haven't locked the slipper clutch completely. Normally the slipper should be the artifically weakest point in the drivetrain. It's perfectly normal that gears break more easely when using a one-way diff. That's why I can't use one on my NTC3. The drivetrain won't survive a 30 min final and AE refuses to design metal gears. :mad:

I also noticed on this car that it's easy to miss the fact that the gearbox screws aren't completely turned down. Always check this visually.

[Southwell]

On my pred i shimmed the gears super tight, then ran the car for 5 mins and was super free again :D, never broke a gear after that.

[nick oliver]

Ye i have stripped loads!, all with oneway.
This was when i was on carpet tho, its fine when your on outdoor tracks!
Put it like this with oneway as you come off a jump and land the front wheels snatch back cause which causes them to snap, The reason they dont snap outdoors cause there is not as much fiction as it lands when theres loads on carpet! Hope that helps, one good thing the gears are alot cheaper than other makes, maybe you could try boiling them? and could i ask what surface they broke on?;)

[BluesFan]

I don't have an answer for the one-way, but I can assure you of a method for the normal diffs. You need to shim them EXACTLY as the instruction book states. It will be slightly tight after building, but they will break in nicely and run well from there on out. Also, put some losi white grease on the gears for lubrication. Unfortunately, the one-way assembly is ever so slightly different than the normal diffs, so I don't know how to shim that one. So far, everyone that I race with (and including myself) that has had this problem that you've stated about the ZX-5 shimmed the diffs as shown in the instructions and their diffs work great afterwards.

[bert digler]

I don't have an answer for the one-way, but I can assure you of a method for the normal diffs. You need to shim them EXACTLY as the instruction book states. It will be slightly tight after building, but they will break in nicely and run well from there on out. Also, put some losi white grease on the gears for lubrication. Unfortunately, the one-way assembly is ever so slightly different than the normal diffs, so I don't know how to shim that one. So far, everyone that I race with (and including myself) that has had this problem that you've stated about the ZX-5 shimmed the diffs as shown in the instructions and their diffs work great afterwards.
i shimmed as per kit set up diff as per kit the set slipper to slip before diff ran off road no problem i agree with they guy with pred shim it tight run in on bench you should have no problem try rc10.com tc3 section for advice as they have been doing shaft drive forever hope this helps:)

[Squintz Palladoris]

[quote=stefke] That's why I can't use one on my NTC3. The drivetrain won't survive a 30 min final and AE refuses to design metal gears. :mad:
[quote]

I Havn't had a problem out of my Bevel Gears in My NTC3. Even with a One way.

I mention this only because I tore up the rear bevel, in my z-x5 the other day, My LHS doesnt stock Kyosho parts so I had to order them online. They will be here next week. Well I couldn't wait! I looked at the bevel gear in My Touring car and noticed it looked similar to the one in my buggy. Only looks a bit stronger. I bought a set today. Had to modify it just a bit and it fit like a glove. Same Pitch and tooth count.

Heres what I had to do. Drill out the Associated bevel to fit the shaft. Then make the crosspin slot a little longer with an exacto knife. I then had to Sand the nose of the gear just a hair to be able to get the C-clip on the shaft. It's workin great so far.

Brad

[stefke]

[quote=stefke] That's why I can't use one on my NTC3. The drivetrain won't survive a 30 min final and AE refuses to design metal gears. :mad:
[quote]

I Havn't had a problem out of my Bevel Gears in My NTC3. Even with a One way.

I mention this only because I tore up the rear bevel, in my z-x5 the other day, My LHS doesnt stock Kyosho parts so I had to order them online. They will be here next week. Well I couldn't wait! I looked at the bevel gear in My Touring car and noticed it looked similar to the one in my buggy. Only looks a bit stronger. I bought a set today. Had to modify it just a bit and it fit like a glove. Same Pitch and tooth count.

Heres what I had to do. Drill out the Associated bevel to fit the shaft. Then make the crosspin slot a little longer with an exacto knife. I then had to Sand the nose of the gear just a hair to be able to get the C-clip on the shaft. It's workin great so far.

Brad

Seems like a good idea. I can easely get AE parts at my LHS.

[Squintz Palladoris]

Well it worked for a little while. Then my ESC went up in smoke. After further investigation I found that the C-clip for the rear bevel gear had come off and ran thru the gears:o . I think I drilled the gear a bit too big and it alowed it to wobble a bit. The stockers showed up so I replaced the gears and shimmed it as per the Kit instructions. I run a 1 Way in the front and it is shimmed 1 shim looser than the kit specs and I have had no problems at all with the front.

Hopefully I will have my ESC Back from LRP next week:(

Brad

[wouter.z]

well broke 2 sets of gears yesterday at the belgium gp :-(
I did shim the diffs as instructed, and the slipper was set up right and they still broke.
I must say that i never broke a gear before, so its probably because of the high traction and my 8*2 motor.

[niggs98]

i tend to shim mine with 2 silvers and a copper on one side and a silver on the other to make it tighter. the car will runn tight for as couple of runs but will free up very quickly and gears have lasted 18 meetings so far without stripping, the only other thing i do is to make sure the slipper slips before the diff does as that really helps