Cougar SV Pro build question

[sunbeam]

Hi,

I've been trying to build my new SV today after picking it up from my LMS. I say trying as I've already had to ring Schumacher twice to ask for missing parts to be sent to me :thumbdown:.

The guy at Schumacher sounded pretty fed-up with me after the third time of ringing (first two to report missing parts). My third phone call was questioning the build sequence of the diff. He went through the building of it on the phone with me in a different sequence that was far superior to the book !

I'm now worried to ring again, just incase they get really fed-up with me, but I think I have another problem. The rear wheel threads are different lengths. One protrudes 16mm from the back of the wheel plate, the other, 14mm. In the instructions it says to use a nut and washer for the long shaft and grip nut for the short.

Surely they don't expect the builder/owner to use 2 different drive shaft lengths with different wheel fixings per side? Can someone tell me if they have given me an incorrect drive shaft in my kit.

Also, can anybody tell me what way round the diff goes as the instructions don't say.

Many thanks.

[Robocop]

Mine have 60.5 stamped on them both same length,on the outside.
What was missing.

I use the diff building out the book,but i have fitted the schumacher ceramic balls in mine since building diff is perfect.

[bigred5765]

heres the manual diff build is correct in it http://www.racing-cars.com/images/Technical_Info/Schumacher/Current%20Cars/Cougar%20SV/Instruction%20Manual/Cougar_sv_manual.pdf

you use ether or not different ones at the same time on the car stick to the serated nuts and if you have different lenght axles you have done something wrong,

[sunbeam]

In my box I was given the purple turn buckles as an extra 'U' packet, basically 4 the same length for the upper suspension arms front and rear and a 'U' packet containing 2 for the steering. The steering turn buckles are meant to be 60mm. One of mine in the packet is 57mm. So that was wrong.

I was also meant to have a 'U' packet containing a metal gear and shaft assembly as a 2011 extra, and that was missing.

In the instructions on page 14 it says, and I quote
" Basic diff setting screw in until tight (all disc springs flat) then undo 90 degrees."
That is EXACTLY what I did to the letter and it had what felt like flat spots in it every 1/12th of a turn. I rang Schumacher and after being accused of masively over tightening the screw, I was (over the phone) talked through doing it up. This was done by a 1/4 turn, stage by stage effort, until I could hardly slip the diff, then at this point, a final 1/8th turn to finish.

The book says do up fully, then undo, Schumacher on the phone say do up step by step until correct with NO over tightening involved !! In my eye, and I may be wrong, the two ways of doing the same job are totally opposite ! The book must be wrong, as it was notchy for me when I did it by the book, and perfect after talking on the phone with Schumacher doing it their way.


"if you have different lenght axles you have done something wrong,"

Can you tell me what I have done wrong with these ?
http://s843.photobucket.com/albums/zz357/rbush/?action=view&current=DSCN3599.jpg

Thank you.

[Cockerill]

The diff setting is a sure fire way of ensuring people don't set the diff too loose, causing damage on the first run. Suggesting that people set the diff by 'feel' will be very different from customer to customer, and it will lead to a lot more problems. Up until recently I always set my diffs by tightening them fully, then backing them off 1/8 - 1/4 of a turn. Now that I know how that 'feels' I can be confident of setting them without over-tightening.

With regard to the drive shafts, it looks like you've got one old and one new. The original drive shafts had a slightly longer thread, which was then reduced from the second batch onwards. It will have no effect on the car and I would just use a serrated nut with it like you would on the short side.

[sunbeam]

So what you are saying is that after buying one of the most expensive 2WD on the market, I am to use odd parts on a brand new car? and that's perfectly fine ?:thumbsup:

[Cockerill]

So what you are saying is that after buying one of the most expensive 2WD on the market, I am to use odd parts on a brand new car? and that's perfectly fine ?:thumbsup:

You don't have to no. I'm sure if you get in touch with Schumacher they will be willing to change it for you. I was just saying that it will have no effect on the car. In fact, I think I ran mine like that for most of the season last year :blush:

[sunbeam]

I have rung Schumacher this morning and got everything sorted. Should get the missing bits by tomorrow so I can finish the build.

Racing Friday after all (come on Mr Postman ! ) :thumbsup:

Thanks.

[martin]

Spoke with Sunbeam today and happily resolved his problems regaurding his driveshafts, here at Schumacher we pride ourselves with having the best customer service in the business, and where we can we will strive to resolve any problems you may have with your schumacher product.:thumbsup:

[Mossy]

Just on this note, there is a setup video I have done on Schumachers Youtube channel which talks you through how to build a diff correctly.

Si

[sunbeam]

I ran the car tonight, and I'm very happy with it. Some changes were made on set-up before it hit the track, and it felt MUCH more controlable than my B4.

I do seem to have much to much front grip running yellow mini pins all round. I'm told I need to move to yellow mini spikes or even yellow staggers on the front. I will do this next week.

Is there any point in getting the saddle pack lipo tray to get grip on the rear, or will tyres and set-up do the job?

Our track is carpet and wooden floor.

Thanks.

[hazeandfizz]

Sunbeam,

Just run stagger ribs and play with short/medium wheelbase depending on how much carpet there is down.

Not easy to get away with pins on the front of a Cougar.

Cheers,
James.

I ran the car tonight, and I'm very happy with it. Some changes were made on set-up before it hit the track, and it felt MUCH more controlable than my B4.

I do seem to have much to much front grip running yellow mini pins all round. I'm told I need to move to yellow mini spikes or even yellow staggers on the front. I will do this next week.

Is there any point in getting the saddle pack lipo tray to get grip on the rear, or will tyres and set-up do the job?

Our track is carpet and wooden floor.

Thanks.

[sunbeam]

Hi,

What does the saddle tray do for the car? I would think it give the rear lots more traction, takes away from the front, makes the rear 'swing' when it does let go and unbalances the car in the jumps ????

Thanks

[Soo]

I`m not sure about standard chassis but with new +8mm chassis and saddle tray car is perfectly balanced 65-35 %. It is easy to drive and works like a charm.:thumbsup:

[Adam F]

From what I have seen, not may run saddles indoors.. with a bit of set up the car handles very well with stick pack config.

I use Tom Cockerill's setup for moto arena which is in the setups section, but with the +8 chassis, trishbits weights and staggers on the front.. (I like heavier cars)

[sunbeam]

OK guys, I'll mess about with borrowed tyres before I start spending money.

Thanks for your help :thumbsup: