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View Full Version : Team Durango cant make diffs for sh!t....


captainlip
30-03-2011, 10:17 PM
I dont care what durango or anybody says, ive spent silly £££ with durango and for the 3rd time both diffs are f**ked and will cost me at least another £30 to sort.

no point contacting team cant make diffs, they will blow some bull sh!t my way about how its not covered under warranty

ive built them PERFECTLY, no play in them, shimmed correctly, slipper not to tight, throttle profile low, brakes reduced to 75%

takes the ****** ***** p!$$ they lasted only 3 heats from a full rebuild

durango im seriously p!$$ed with you and tbh considering selling it for something that works and doesnt need rebuilding every heat costing a months wages each time.

takes the fun out of racing!!! :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

pitwizard
30-03-2011, 10:21 PM
I dont care what durango or anybody says, ive spent silly £££ with durango and for the 3rd time both diffs are f**ked and will cost me at least another £30 to sort.

no point contacting team cant make diffs, they will blow some bull sh!t my way about how its not covered under warranty

ive built them PERFECTLY, no play in them, shimmed correctly, slipper not to tight, throttle profile low, brakes reduced to 75%

takes the ****** ***** p!$$ they lasted only 3 heats from a full rebuild

durango im seriously p!$$ed with you and tbh considering selling it for something that works and doesnt need rebuilding every heat costing a months wages each time.

takes the fun out of racing!!! :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:


Have you asked any of your local team drivers to take a look at your car to see if they can spot any problems? - not that I'm saying youre doing anything wrong, but might be worth a try.

captainlip
30-03-2011, 10:26 PM
ive literally tried everything, this time when they were built they both felt perfect, no play, meshed perfect.

really losing faith in rango, clearly there is an issue as they have put a guide up to build them.

if durango send me some perfectly built diffs as a way of sorting this and thanking me for the hundereds ive spent with them then i would give them thumbs up again.

but ill just get fu*ked off like usual as they dont want to know about it.

jamiekerr14
30-03-2011, 10:29 PM
No offence but I have not heard, seen of many going tbh.. The Guide-is a guide.. more companies should follow!

captainlip
30-03-2011, 10:34 PM
then why would i have 3 sets off diffs fu*k up???

seriously the diffs are built really well. but now ive spent over £100 on diffs parts that keep failing.

i must be single handed financing durangos development team

common rango i want an answer for this and something done about it before you lose a good customer and i spread the word to aviod rango diffs

mikeyscott
30-03-2011, 10:34 PM
No offence but I have not heard, seen of many going tbh.. The Guide-is a guide.. more companies should follow!

Agreed, number of us run them at torch and have no problems. Think circa 8 410s recently.

pitwizard
30-03-2011, 10:35 PM
ive literally tried everything, this time when they were built they both felt perfect, no play, meshed perfect.

really losing faith in rango, clearly there is an issue as they have put a guide up to build them.

if durango send me some perfectly built diffs as a way of sorting this and thanking me for the hundereds ive spent with them then i would give them thumbs up again.

but ill just get fu*ked off like usual as they dont want to know about it.

But have you talked to a local team driver racing on the same track? They are there to help.

mikeyscott
30-03-2011, 10:35 PM
Agreed, number of us run them at torch and have no problems. Think circa 8 410s recently.

How tight is the slipper as that is also key to protecting drive train

coolcars782
30-03-2011, 10:36 PM
Well if you said you have built them perfectly, there must be something else wrong causing it too happen, what parts have actually gone?

jamiekerr14
30-03-2011, 10:38 PM
Im all for getting feedback, But if you have x3! go.. there maybe something wrong.. in they way they are built, or your drivetrain. As Gear diff's take a lot of abuse( 1/8th scare racer) and withstand a lot of abuse before they go. Which having 3 go by 1 person. And not many- if any other's complaining of issues. It starts to lead to the car or building them. What parts have gone in the diffs?

captainlip
30-03-2011, 10:51 PM
i have spoken with i team member at bury who gave some advice.

its inside the gearbox the main crown x4 and the 14t going in the gearbox x2, not to mention shims, gearbox cases x1 plus other spares. :thumbdown:

jamiekerr14
30-03-2011, 10:53 PM
You sure it was meshed correctly? as if its killing teeth. It likely to have too much play. if not no idea what else it could be.. (Pictures say a 1,000 words)

captainlip
30-03-2011, 10:54 PM
and when its built i look at every single detail when building it, too me nearly two hours to the point i was happy it be the last time it happen, im running barely no brakes, and the slipper is perfect and defo not to tight!

captainlip
30-03-2011, 10:58 PM
You sure it was meshed correctly? as if its killing teeth. It likely to have too much play. if not no idea what else it could be.. (Pictures say a 1,000 words)


meshed perfectly, there was barely any play when built. i mean 1mm movement outside the gearbox couldnt have been better :cry:

coolcars782
30-03-2011, 11:09 PM
Do you check your diffs after the first run? just to check it's all bedded correctly?

captainlip
30-03-2011, 11:14 PM
each heat you could hear they were getting worse, by the final its terrible, cant run it again, so thanks rango £30 of parts lasted me 1 evening.

tbh if rango dont respond to this i will probably sell it for something else, as much as i love it, im not filling rangos pockets for their shit diffs.

lets see there customer service and driver support now please....

Bozzspeed
30-03-2011, 11:24 PM
Come on Captianlip.

You are yet to describe what actually has happened to your diffs.

I was happy to see the guide personally. As for being on the other side of the world, it is helpful to see what method the factory drivers use. I have run my diffs for a few weeks now with a few chipped teeth, yet it has not failed.

Is it the inside gear?

What oil and brand are you using?
What part is failing?
Is it just leaking?


More info is required if you what help over the forum?

captainlip
30-03-2011, 11:32 PM
sorry is the main crown and the 14t gear going into the gearbox both are stripping teeth and filling the box full of metal flakes, there is too much play and never seems to mesh correctly even after loads of time getting it to a point it felt perfect. but somethings missing clearly as they keep stripping every meet, its not that it cant be used its that it sounds like a mess, everyone is commenting on how bad it sounds hardly good publicity :lol:

if rango help me out with gearbox cases, grease, 2x 14t input gears 2x gearbox crowns i will be calling praise and glory for rango helping someone who has serious issues with their kit. but this will never happen. after all these would cost rango pennys. :blush:

Bozzspeed
30-03-2011, 11:50 PM
Now we are getting some where!

You say that there is a lot of play.
Where?
Diff (left to right).
Is the 14t gear moving in and out?
Or is the play all in the mess.
What shims are in what position?


Funny, I built my car and it was noisy, then I built the diffs for mate when he was building the rest of his car. His was quiet. Club members now call my car the “Tractor” because you can hear it coming. Once I replace the diff rear diff gear all is quiet now.

A silly question. But are you put the 3 diff screws which hold the case together through the correct side. Eg when you look at the top of the car can you see the screw head buttons?

ghostdogg
30-03-2011, 11:53 PM
Ask them to build one for you!!
You never know what they might say. Then you'll know what it is if they don't go!!
Oli

captainlip
30-03-2011, 11:54 PM
You say that there is a lot of play.
Where? the 14t gear coming out the box
Diff (left to right). nope shimmed properly
Is the 14t gear moving in and out? yes
Or is the play all in the mess. yes lol
What shims are in what position? silver 0.2 on the crown side 0.1 copper on opposite


A silly question. But are you put the 3 diff screws which hold the case together through the correct side. Eg when you look at the top of the car can you see the screw head buttons? these are in correct way. :D

Bozzspeed
31-03-2011, 12:04 AM
Ask them to build one for you!!
You never know what they might say. Then you'll know what it is if they don't go!!
Oli

I don't think someone else building a diff will help. I'm sure that Captian can tighten up 4 screws correctly.


Come to think of it Captianlip, even if the 3 diff screw were not in the rear bulkhead should hold it together. It just if the 2 front screws are loose, you would have a lot of movement in the 14T shaft. :confused:

Bozzspeed
31-03-2011, 12:08 AM
Let me have a quick look at mine, since it sitting next to me apart.

captainlip
31-03-2011, 12:10 AM
I have the rear diff out, and im sure its not had this in the past, but the 14t gear has a decent amount of play forward and backwards.

Bozzspeed
31-03-2011, 12:10 AM
whats the gap between the 2 bearing in the 14T shaft when the bearings are fully pulled apart?

captainlip
31-03-2011, 12:12 AM
should be as per manual but there is play in the front towards the 14t gear, clearly needs a shim. :thumbdown:

Bozzspeed
31-03-2011, 12:15 AM
picture

captainlip
31-03-2011, 12:18 AM
well there could be part of the problem, i only have a tape measure :lol: but even with that i can see its JUST over 3.0mm :mad::mad:

durango owe me some credit or spares

Bozzspeed
31-03-2011, 12:32 AM
Now this is why you have a 3mm gap and how to fix it.

Undo the grub screw on the gear input driveshaft a little, then push it up the 14T shaft and re-tighten. This should give you at least 2.70 – 2.8.

If you have it pulled all the way out you will have the measurement of 3.00mm, which is too much movement of the shaft.

captainlip
31-03-2011, 12:34 AM
pulled all the way in! :mad: made sure of this each time it was rebuilt.

seen this link but where the hell do i find correct shims. :confused::confused:



http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/474896-durango-dex-410-leaky-diff-shim-fix.html

fifi
31-03-2011, 12:42 AM
Poor lock it on the screw?
Did you use the one given in the kit?
Clean the parts and use good lock it.

captainlip
31-03-2011, 12:44 AM
the screw on the 14t gear?

Bozzspeed
31-03-2011, 12:54 AM
The Durango importer may only consider a replacement if you return all the parts to examine and something is machined wrong.

I hard to see that all parts that you have purchased are machined wrong, but could be. But from the info from the last few messages it looks like the driveshaft has not been pushed on far enough. As the instruction says 2.8mm is the correct spacing. At 3mm you should of been asking the shop where you purchase the car about the measurement being wrong and why. This is why a shop makes money from us.

A question for Adam:
In the instruction it a cross next to the 2.00mm setting. No way could I ever get a 2mm setting if I tried. Should it read 3.00mm? That would make more sense and may stop this problem from happening again.

captainlip
31-03-2011, 12:57 AM
so basically i need to stick shims in there? as per link above? where the hell i get those!

thanks for the help, but i still feel durango are at fault and should be here offering replacement and support in extreme cases like this.

£100 already and still no functioning gearboxes. :thumbdown:

Bozzspeed
31-03-2011, 01:06 AM
or you could make the slot in the shaft a little longer. I wouldn't use the shim method as it the moves the gear forward and you may not be able to space it out correctly with the diff shims.

I hoped all this helped you.

Is it time to go to bed?

captainlip
31-03-2011, 01:08 AM
sure is :lol: thanks!

dunno about the cutting out havent got a dremmel

simoncrabb
31-03-2011, 05:41 AM
IF you need to shim it, you just need some 5mm shims, something like

http://www.team-durango.com/part-info.php?partNo=TD709015

I rebuilt one yesterday that had too much movement in the input shaft, I thought I would have to shim it, but cleaned it all out, and it closed up nicely with zero play.

Getting the mesh right is the key and no play anywhere.

cmgreen
31-03-2011, 07:06 AM
Sounds to me like complete user error!

Ian F
31-03-2011, 07:45 AM
Are you running on carpet?
I would say the slipper is to tight, the kit setting is way to much, try backing it all the way to get slip then tighten, I've been running one all winter and only done 1 rear when I changed surface to astro.

mark christopher
31-03-2011, 08:19 AM
Sounds to me like complete user error!

Agree here. Fail to see how you can come on here claiming their built correctly when you have admitted having play in the input shaft.

Defiantly user error. My diffs have been fine since I built t it when they first came out

You should be apologizing to Durango.

ben
31-03-2011, 08:29 AM
I know your angry at the diffs failing, but coming on oOple slating Durango doesnt do any good. Go to team durango and tell them what your problem is rather than having a dig at them on here!

SHY
31-03-2011, 08:46 AM
We've all been at a dead end sometimes! Have someone else build the diffs for you, and then see exactly how they've done it. You're probably just missing something.

Sounds like you have too much play.

Good luck! :thumbsup:

Just for the record: When the B44 came out, some had problems with gearbox havocs all the time. Others never ever. Clearly that was just incorrect shimming. There may be production tolerences as the moulds get worn, so you should always properly check the clearences, not follow the manual blindly. May be wise to start with it too tight, then take off 1 shim. If it's then free, you know you can't make it any tighter... And correct slipper adjustment of course, check that on the track. Make it too loose, then tighten until it slips just slightly. Don't use the "manual/measure setting".

Keep in mind that these are sophisticated racing machines, not toys. So you very seldom get a refund when something breaks. But some guys are extra nice, and give a refund/free parts even when there's been a user error. Doesen't hurt to send the parts and politely ask for new parts. But I'd be a bit humble about it! ;)

Bagman
31-03-2011, 10:35 AM
Have you contacted TD directly? I'm guessing the way to go about these things are ask team drivers/friends/forum members with the same car first then if still no joy a polite email to the manufacturer explaining things clearly. If that solves it great if they just fob you off or fail to respond then bring it up on the forum. I don't think you'll get any refunds or free parts though. Can't see that. It does sound like an incorrect set up and no parts failure involved. When the 1.5mm pin issue came up that was (eventually) addressed and help/discounts given to those who needed it. So the system does work.

I've raced my Durango for over a year with a fairly tight slipper and had no issues like this, nor have I seen any other Durango with this sort of problem. Stick with it though as if this is your only problem a team driver can probably sort this then your off.

captainlip
31-03-2011, 10:49 AM
Agree here. Fail to see how you can come on here claiming their built correctly when you have admitted having play in the input shaft.

Defiantly user error. My diffs have been fine since I built t it when they first came out

You should be apologizing to Durango.


I was expecting a few on here to come out with comments like this, read the whole thread before you all post next time. its not like im a noob at building diffs, i know what im doing and take care building them everytime.

captainlip
31-03-2011, 10:50 AM
IF you need to shim it, you just need some 5mm shims, something like

http://www.team-durango.com/part-info.php?partNo=TD709015

I rebuilt one yesterday that had too much movement in the input shaft, I thought I would have to shim it, but cleaned it all out, and it closed up nicely with zero play.

Getting the mesh right is the key and no play anywhere.

so are these the shims for behind the 14t gear?

SHY
31-03-2011, 10:56 AM
Good drivers with 10/20/30 years experience still make mistakes...

And trying to resolve this in cyberspace isn't the best solution IMHO. Have someone with the same car rebuild the diffs for you man! Then see step-by-step how they do it. There might be a "aha" along the way... :thumbsup:

Bagman
31-03-2011, 10:58 AM
You've got to love that AHA moment, can't be faked.

SHY
31-03-2011, 11:00 AM
In this case possibly followed by a "monkey slap" :lol:

Hulk
31-03-2011, 11:22 AM
There must be something seriously wrong for you to be having this many problems.

Ive had the car for over 18 months and had no problems at all. This is obviously an isolated issue as nobody else is replying saying they have the problem.

I use the shims as per the instruction manual and have run my car week after week with no failures.

Like people have said, it doesnt do any good coming on here having a rant. Its very hard for people to help when you cant actually see whats going on.

Durango have contact details on their website including a phone number and email address. Your best off speaking to them direct to see if they can shed some light on waht is causing the problem before having a rant on here. Im sure if you call them they will be happy to help.

Let me know where your racing over the next few weeks, and if i happen to be going to the same place, ill personally take a look to see if theres anything obvious causing the problem.

The car has been out for over 18 months and nobody has had so many gear failures, so this is not a common problem at all.

Send me a PM with your contact details and ill give you a call to help if needed.

Craig

Bozzspeed
31-03-2011, 11:27 AM
Good morning Captianlip,

sleep well?

the shims can be found on Mugen,Serpent,Kyosho 1/8th cars. we use the to space out the clutch bell

Not sure if Durango uses them on the 1/8buggy.


Yes, some reply with out read the whole thread.......:woot:

mikeyscott
31-03-2011, 11:31 AM
I too am running the gears shimmed as per the manual with no issues.

I'd take Craig up on the offer as he's been very helpful for me.

captainlip
31-03-2011, 11:39 AM
my gearbox is also shimmed per manual, and has no movement left to right, i believe (thanks to bozz) the issue is with the input gear 14t moving in and out, if its shimmed inwards i can see there should be no meshing problems.

my durango diffs should be made of gold the amout ive spent on them. if durango dont supply shims for this then its their fault and should take responsibility as they should have extensively tested this.

captainlip
31-03-2011, 11:41 AM
if someone can point me in the way of the shims for the 14t gear input shaft id be greatful as i cant find any :confused:

Bagman
31-03-2011, 11:44 AM
You would have a few more issues if they were made of gold surely.

If I were you I'd accept the offer of help now and let it lie. You're probably going to end up with a diff the rest of us will be jealous of.

mark christopher
31-03-2011, 11:48 AM
my gearbox is also shimmed per manual, and has no movement left to right, i believe (thanks to bozz) the issue is with the input gear 14t moving in and out, if its shimmed inwards i can see there should be no meshing problems.

my durango diffs should be made of gold the amout ive spent on them. if durango dont supply shims for this then its their fault and should take responsibility as they should have extensively tested this.

They do not need shims, on the input shaft, there should be no play. Simply take any play out by moving the cvd in or out and locking the grub screw.
So what experience do you have on building and meshing gear diffs?

Big G
31-03-2011, 12:03 PM
if durango dont supply shims for this then its their fault and should take responsibility as they should have extensively tested this.

The thing is you're the ONLY ONE who has had this problem.
All the rest of us who have been running the car for a long time haven't had any problems at all with our diffs.

The fact that you have gone through so many diffs means 2 possibilities.

1) faulty diffs. Slim chance it could be else the rest of us would have problems
2) you didn't build the transmission as good as you make out.

You repeatedly state you built it perfectly, etc, etc. but it keeps failing so perhaps you're not building them as perfectly as you think?

I'm pretty sure all the shims required were supplied in my kit to space everything out correctly too.

Hulk
31-03-2011, 12:08 PM
my durango diffs should be made of gold the amout ive spent on them. if durango dont supply shims for this then its their fault and should take responsibility as they should have extensively tested this.[/QUOTE]

I can assure you, the diffs have been extensivley tested and there should be no need for you to shim the input gear.

I have never shimmed the input gear. I have a few diffs with different oils which are all built the same with no issues.

If your doing the Nationals, ill be at Stotfold so come see me and ill take a look.

There has to be a logical explination to whats causing your problem and your initial post of 'Durango cant make diffs for s**t' is not the cause.

Craig

captainlip
31-03-2011, 12:33 PM
They do not need shims, on the input shaft, there should be no play.

read the whole thread and you will see my problem in doing this!

captainlip
31-03-2011, 12:38 PM
my durango diffs should be made of gold the amout ive spent on them. if durango dont supply shims for this then its their fault and should take responsibility as they should have extensively tested this.

I can assure you, the diffs have been extensivley tested and there should be no need for you to shim the input gear.

I have never shimmed the input gear. I have a few diffs with different oils which are all built the same with no issues.

If your doing the Nationals, ill be at Stotfold so come see me and ill take a look.

There has to be a logical explination to whats causing your problem and your initial post of 'Durango cant make diffs for s**t' is not the cause.

Craig[/QUOTE]

it certainly is the case, as there is play forward and backwards in the input shaft, you can defend durango as much as you like, but there is a major flaw with these diffs I have recieved.

ive see pictures of other people with poorly machined parts from durango.

last night i was commented on how smooth and solid the diffs felt! 4 heats later it was they loudest piece of sh!t out there.

i love durangos when they work, but the fact this keeps happening im losing faith fast. durango should be sorting the issue out in extreme cases like this.

Bagman
31-03-2011, 12:50 PM
I think they are helping you out as you only posted a strongly worded, less than polite opinion on a forum and within a few hours you've got one of the top Durango drivers in the county offering you personal help, direct phone contact and trying to find out where you'll be racing so he can help out.

captainlip
31-03-2011, 12:55 PM
I think they are helping you out as you only posted a strongly worded, less than polite opinion on a forum and within a few hours you've got one of the top Durango drivers in the county offering you personal help, direct phone contact and trying to find out where you'll be racing so he can help out.


I do appreciate his help, but this is something durango as a company should recognise and not expect their drivers to deal with

Bagman
31-03-2011, 12:57 PM
When did you contact them?

mikeyscott
31-03-2011, 12:57 PM
I do appreciate his help, but this is something durango as a company should recognise and not expect their drivers to deal with

But none of us here have had the prob :confused:

captainlip
31-03-2011, 12:59 PM
But none of us here have had the prob :confused:


exactly why im pissed!!! im the only one with this and im not forking out any more money on dodgy diffs

Adam Skelding
31-03-2011, 01:00 PM
Captainlip.
I have read through the entire thread and there has got to be an obvious problem with your gearboxes if you are going through gear at the rate you suggest.

If you input shaft is moving around so much, it maybe worth checking that your bearings on the input shaft haven't collapsed, which could be causing the excessive movement. There is certainly no need to put extra shims in here, it simply won't help. If you are putting extra shims in you are using them to cover up a problem which lies elsewhere.

As of yet we are still to hear from you directly at Team Durango, as other people have mentioned on this thread, it's how we deal with our customer service questions, we don't deal with them on forums as it prevents us from dealing with any issues on a one to one basis.

The diffs were extensively tested and have been run by the team for nearly 2 years now without any major issues. There are no other parts being used by the team, everyone has the same parts that you do and the build guide on the TD website:
http://www.team-durango.com/blog/?p=2584
Was put there to answer the most commonly asked question we had as to the proper methodology in building our diffs.

Most cases can simply be rectified without the purchase of any new parts, there is usually a glaring problem which is found and resolved quickly.

Could I please ask you to contact support@team-durango.com so we can help you to resolve your issue.

Bagman
31-03-2011, 01:00 PM
But when did you contact them?

Answered above.

TonyM
31-03-2011, 01:00 PM
Sorry to hear about your problems again Phil.

As I mentioned last night, from scratch I put a strip of insulating tape on the diff and input shaft bearing housings, as advised by others in threads on this topic.

So, far (fingers crossed) I've had no issues and I've probably raced my Rango for about eight hours now.

cmgreen
31-03-2011, 01:12 PM
Captainlip.
I have read through the entire thread and there has got to be an obvious problem with your gearboxes if you are going through gear at the rate you suggest.

If you input shaft is moving around so much, it maybe worth checking that your bearings on the input shaft haven't collapsed, which could be causing the excessive movement. There is certainly no need to put extra shims in here, it simply won't help. If you are putting extra shims in you are using them to cover up a problem which lies elsewhere.

As of yet we are still to hear from you directly at Team Durango, as other people have mentioned on this thread, it's how we deal with our customer service questions, we don't deal with them on forums as it prevents us from dealing with any issues on a one to one basis.

The diffs were extensively tested and have been run by the team for nearly 2 years now without any major issues. There are no other parts being used by the team, everyone has the same parts that you do and the build guide on the TD website:
http://www.team-durango.com/blog/?p=2584
Was put there to answer the most commonly asked question we had as to the proper methodology in building our diffs.

Most cases can simply be rectified without the purchase of any new parts, there is usually a glaring problem which is found and resolved quickly.

Could I please ask you to contact support@team-durango.com so we can help you to resolve your issue.

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

SHY
31-03-2011, 01:18 PM
The only way to top this level of customer service would be for Mr. Skelding to drive to the guy's house & ring his doorbell... with hot tea and biscuits to go... :thumbsup:

mikeyscott
31-03-2011, 01:18 PM
So now there are two offers of assistance.

One from a highly respected driver and 2nd from Team Durango themselves. Pretty good offer thus far as a starting point.

The ONLY time I have seen a Durango diff go in the rear is when the slipper has been wound up super tight and therefore not doing one of it's functions (i.e. protecting the drive train). I purchased a number of diff items as spares and 4 months on they are still NIP in my box..

The only thing I have ever had to do on my Durango diffs is change the o rings to Kyosho ones and that's it. I love the car for it's design, but I'm not sure it suits me with regards to my driving style So I've been looking at a 511 again, however that'll be a pig to maintain compared to this. But it's more ££ and I'll see how I do at Stotfold this weekend.

mark christopher
31-03-2011, 02:12 PM
read the whole thread and you will see my problem in doing this!

I have and your doing it wrong.
Now answer my question on ur experience building gear diffs...

DarkDog
31-03-2011, 02:30 PM
Hi All,

I have to say that I also experienced a lot of broken 14T gears inside the gearbox. (410R)
I got this resolved by replacing the black shim (#TD709001) covering the E-clip with a slightly thicker model.
In the new 410 2010 spec however, these have been changed into thicker silver ones out of the box...

Maybe this helps

captainlip
31-03-2011, 02:42 PM
Captainlip.
I have read through the entire thread and there has got to be an obvious problem with your gearboxes if you are going through gear at the rate you suggest.

If you input shaft is moving around so much, it maybe worth checking that your bearings on the input shaft haven't collapsed, which could be causing the excessive movement. There is certainly no need to put extra shims in here, it simply won't help. If you are putting extra shims in you are using them to cover up a problem which lies elsewhere.

As of yet we are still to hear from you directly at Team Durango, as other people have mentioned on this thread, it's how we deal with our customer service questions, we don't deal with them on forums as it prevents us from dealing with any issues on a one to one basis.

The diffs were extensively tested and have been run by the team for nearly 2 years now without any major issues. There are no other parts being used by the team, everyone has the same parts that you do and the build guide on the TD website:
http://www.team-durango.com/blog/?p=2584
Was put there to answer the most commonly asked question we had as to the proper methodology in building our diffs.

Most cases can simply be rectified without the purchase of any new parts, there is usually a glaring problem which is found and resolved quickly.

Could I please ask you to contact support@team-durango.com so we can help you to resolve your issue.


thanks for your reply, i have sent an email to that address for your attention. I will see what we can resolve off the forum and get back to winning ways :thumbsup:

I recommend durango to everybody but really need this sorting as ive found myself getting very annoyed with the diffs every meet.

mattb
31-03-2011, 04:18 PM
phil just thinking to some problems you posted when you bought the car,ie when you pressed the throttle the car went backwards.If i remember rightly everyone told you to flip you diffs round,but after looking at your transmitter for you, you had the settings all over the place,im just thinking if you have the diffs still in the wrong way round then maybe when your getting on the throttle the center drive shaft is trying to lift them out of the gear boxes causing them to strip??? could this happen durango guys?


phil get your manual out and check everything is the right way round,
also phil if you remember when i set your radio gear up for you at roundabout we had to reverse the throttle trim,if your diff are in the wrong way flip them back over then reverse your throttle trim again,then i dont think youl have anymore problems with your diffs!!

JonyNitro
31-03-2011, 05:14 PM
KYOSHO
LAZER
FS-2
MUHAHAA

ben
31-03-2011, 05:22 PM
I think they are helping you out as you only posted a strongly worded, less than polite opinion on a forum and within a few hours you've got one of the top Durango drivers in the county offering you personal help, direct phone contact and trying to find out where you'll be racing so he can help out.

Well said!
If the diffs are built as perfect as you make out, then.. why does this thread even exist?

captainlip
31-03-2011, 07:10 PM
The diffs are the correct way round.

To be clear I'm not slating durango, I'm just venting my anger towards these diffs. I am now dealing with this with adam not on here.

I highly rate durango and wouldn't choose any other brand. Hell I want rango sponsorship so I can pay for these diffs :D And to be honest I am very happy with the help and support not from Adam but the tips and advice you guys are giving, as clearly most of you understand how much trouble I'm having.

Will report back when/if this is resolved

Nige
31-03-2011, 07:23 PM
To be clear I'm not slating durango, I'm just venting my anger towards these diffs. I am now dealing with this with adam not on here.

I highly rate durango and wouldn't choose any other brand.


Those diffs must have affected your short-term memory then.....


durango im seriously p!$$ed with you and tbh considering selling it for something that works and doesnt need rebuilding every heat costing a months wages each time.


really losing faith in rango, clearly there is an issue as they have put a guide up to build them.

You should count to ten and think before posting such negative threads in the future :thumbdown: And I do hope when your issue is resolved you'll come back and apologise to Durango.

telboy
31-03-2011, 07:53 PM
You mention that you're such a perfectionist when building the gearboxes, yet later on you mention that there is exessive play in the mesh :confused:

To me this is not building them to perfection.
No need to spend hours building gearboxes. I had my Rango for about a year and half, and never had problems with the diff. Same with the R that I had too. I just biult them, had a quick check for exessive play, and if all felt fine then it went on track, with no problems racing nats and regionals for well over a year.

I was going to mention bearing collapse but Mr Skelding beat me to it!:p:cry:

Also, with both of the durangos I had, when you build the diff case, the 3 screws in the casings have all been facing down. Maybe this is why your car went backwards?

Shaun 'TheSheep' Atkinson
31-03-2011, 07:57 PM
I don't actually run a Durango anymore, but I don't think any R/C company or Team should be slated on a public forum!

No matter how diplomatic you 'think' you have been you have to think about people on here new and old that may be thinking about a switch to Durango, this kind of thing could put them off altogther, therefore possibly losing the company/team a potential long term customer.

This sort of thing should go straight to the company your having problems with. What you initial comment should have read is:

"Has anyone else had any problems with there diffs?"
Not... "Team Durango cant make diffs for sh!t...."

I have had a few problems with the car I am running, nothing major, but I wouldn't come onto oOple and leave negativity about them before they have had a chance to sort the problem on a 1 to 1 basis...

steve73
31-03-2011, 08:04 PM
One guy with one problem
Thousands without a problem, i think that is enough information
Please buy another car and don't bother us

Shaun 'TheSheep' Atkinson
31-03-2011, 08:16 PM
One guy with one problem
Thousands without a problem, i think that is enough information
Please buy another car and don't bother us

I don't think the last part of that was really called for! People are entitled to run whichever car they want to, with or without any problems they may or may not have had, My point was I don't think the route taken by the guy having the problems was the correct one, This should have been taken up with Durango 1 to 1 and attempted to be resolved before posting such comments.

I dare say if he had spent as much time talking to Durango rather than posting on this thread, his problems would have been sorted much sooner.

steve73
31-03-2011, 08:29 PM
I agree, but when there is no wish to solve the problem only *******words, without photos of the car, without asking for help and so on, i have to say what i said

captainlip
31-03-2011, 09:03 PM
My durango didn't go backwards and there is excessive play now, not before though! People are reading this all wrong!!!

You mention that you're such a perfectionist when building the gearboxes, yet later on you mention that there is exessive play in the mesh :confused:

To me this is not building them to perfection.
No need to spend hours building gearboxes. I had my Rango for about a year and half, and never had problems with the diff. Same with the R that I had too. I just biult them, had a quick check for exessive play, and if all felt fine then it went on track, with no problems racing nats and regionals for well over a year.

I was going to mention bearing collapse but Mr Skelding beat me to it!:p:cry:

Also, with both of the durangos I had, when you build the diff case, the 3 screws in the casings have all been facing down. Maybe this is why your car went backwards?

captainlip
31-03-2011, 09:12 PM
One guy with one problem
Thousands without a problem, i think that is enough information
Please buy another car and don't bother us

Nice one steve, make a tit of your company on here well done!

How about sort the diffs out, they leak from standard, they need shims from standard, an even then some still have issues!

And to others that don't bother reading the whole thread, I wasn't slating durango, just annoyed with the diffs being defective 3 times, anybody with any car would do the same, I'm entitled to my opinion and entitled to air my concerns, ask for advice on here and discuss this. I haven't slated rango at all.

Like I said I'm dealing with rango now, let's just hope steve doesn't take care of this one!

If rango don't resolve this or offer decent advise after all the £££ I spent for them and recommended others then yes I will come back and advise everyone to avoid rango, but that's not my intentions.

Shaun 'TheSheep' Atkinson
31-03-2011, 09:35 PM
phil just thinking to some problems you posted when you bought the car,ie when you pressed the throttle the car went backwards.If i remember rightly everyone told you to flip you diffs round,but after looking at your transmitter for you, you had the settings all over the place,im just thinking if you have the diffs still in the wrong way round then maybe when your getting on the throttle the center drive shaft is trying to lift them out of the gear boxes causing them to strip??? could this happen durango guys?


phil get your manual out and check everything is the right way round,
also phil if you remember when i set your radio gear up for you at roundabout we had to reverse the throttle trim,if your diff are in the wrong way flip them back over then reverse your throttle trim again,then i dont think youl have anymore problems with your diffs!!

Well obviously this guy seems to think it went backwards, and he obviously knows you as he set your radio gear up...

telboy
31-03-2011, 09:42 PM
Nice one steve, make a tit of your company on here well done!

How about sort the diffs out, they leak from standard, they need shims from standard, an even then some still have issues!

And to others that don't bother reading the whole thread, I wasn't slating durango, just annoyed with the diffs being defective 3 times, anybody with any car would do the same, I'm entitled to my opinion and entitled to air my concerns, ask for advice on here and discuss this. I haven't slated rango at all.

Like I said I'm dealing with rango now, let's just hope steve doesn't take care of this one!

If rango don't resolve this or offer decent advise after all the £££ I spent for them and recommended others then yes I will come back and advise everyone to avoid rango, but that's not my intentions.

I've read the whole thread.
And saying that durango can't make diffs for sh!t....I would call that 'slating'.

captainlip
31-03-2011, 09:52 PM
Well obviously this guy seems to think it went backwards, and he obviously knows you as he set your radio gear up...

No he sorted a few servo issues on my tranny and in the process it went backwards while he was fiddling with settings, I know what he means as when was first built I put it in the wrong way buy this is because the tranny was all backwards. Nothing to do with this problem now but was a valid point to ask.

captainlip
31-03-2011, 09:53 PM
I've read the whole thread.
And saying that durango can't make diffs for sh!t....I would call that 'slating'.

Take it like that if you wish, but that's just how youv interpreted that sentence.

captainlip
31-03-2011, 09:58 PM
I agree, but when there is no wish to solve the problem only *******words, without photos of the car, without asking for help and so on, i have to say what i said

I have to disagree with your comments, there is plenty of info in these 5 pages that points towards the input drive gear, wether it's the gear, case, bearings somethings costing me alot of £££

And for you to jump in with that really gets my back up, as a representative of the company id expect better, Adam gave a superb reply and since taken this to durango directly, the reason I didn't earlier was because I expected the response you just gave me.

Adam Skelding
01-04-2011, 07:03 AM
Captainlip.
Steve73 doesn't work for Team Durango, I'm not sure where you get the idea from that he does.

We at TD will be looking at your diffs with staff who have a combined racing experience of well over a 100 years.

Words do sometimes explain the problem but pictures can really help. Even then there is no substitute for seeing the problem first hand.

Nice one steve, make a tit of your company on here well done!

How about sort the diffs out, they leak from standard, they need shims from standard, an even then some still have issues!

And to others that don't bother reading the whole thread, I wasn't slating durango, just annoyed with the diffs being defective 3 times, anybody with any car would do the same, I'm entitled to my opinion and entitled to air my concerns, ask for advice on here and discuss this. I haven't slated rango at all.

Like I said I'm dealing with rango now, let's just hope steve doesn't take care of this one!

If rango don't resolve this or offer decent advise after all the £££ I spent for them and recommended others then yes I will come back and advise everyone to avoid rango, but that's not my intentions.

cmgreen
01-04-2011, 07:08 AM
I would say 'You cant make diffs for sh*t'

Pack it in slating people for your problem, theres loads of people on here always willing to help each other out. Me thinks alot of these people wont be helping you in the future!

As for durango, you cant beat there customer service and build quality of that car!

Bagman
01-04-2011, 07:59 AM
Just relax it a bit and stop contradicting yourself this thread is a bit embarrassing for all concerned now. Eat a bit of humble pie, back off and go with the help and it'll all be back to normal in a few weeks.

Good luck with the sponsorship by the way.

Benh
01-04-2011, 11:00 PM
I have picked up some 1.5 Drive shafts and started rebuilding them.

They were pretty gummed up with thread lock, which restricted the joint (barrel) considerably (it took a lot of force to straighten them). I have read that a lot of thread lock was common due to original issues of pins getting thrown. I would imagine that if I had installed this, as it was, into another Durango, (considering the angles going into the input shaft,) this would cause a lot of stress on the input shaft and in turn the gearbox and bevel. The gearbox housing would weaken and result in the above more rapidly each time.

Just a thought?

Arnefles
06-04-2011, 05:29 PM
I just want to say that my diff's on my Durango works smooth and have never had any troubble with it. I did shims a little bit on the sides but not on the bevel gear.

I have seen that it might be some difference on the gearbox-cases but not much.

If I turn the 3 screws on the box to hard the gear makes a little bit more noise on my car.

But I'm really satiesfied with the diff's on my car, love it!

I have been driving indoor and outdoor about a year now.

Go Durango! -waiting for the DEX210 :-)

mikeyscott
06-04-2011, 05:32 PM
Never had a problem with mine period. However it potentially goes to a new owner tomorrow night.

captainlip
06-04-2011, 05:35 PM
mine are back with durango today, hope to hear from them soon, customer sevice cant be beaten ill give them that :thumbsup:

coleman758
06-04-2011, 05:44 PM
mine are back with durango today, hope to hear from them soon, customer sevice cant be beaten ill give them that :thumbsup:

Dito, Just got a full set of new driveshafts today to replace the 1.5mm ones i got sent by mistake.

Martin Wallace
06-04-2011, 11:32 PM
mine are back with durango today, hope to hear from them soon, customer sevice cant be beaten ill give them that :thumbsup:


dunno if this helps you or not.

http://www.petitrc.com/_forumphp/showthread.php?t=41989&page=18

STEWART
07-04-2011, 02:11 AM
I race on carpet and have yet to see a durango diff or drive train part break.

stegger
07-04-2011, 07:14 AM
dunno if this helps you or not.

http://www.petitrc.com/_forumphp/showthread.php?t=41989&page=18

Jamie, that's been copied from the durango website. ;)

slowjun
13-04-2011, 05:15 AM
Well, im not the expert type when it comes to rebuilding Gear Diffs and this is the first time i had built one (except for the Tamiya/kyosho ones before), been sideline for more than 20 yrs but started to come back, got a B44, dumped it for a 410 coz of the Gear Diffs. after 6 months of having my 410 did not encounter any problems on the Diff (except for changing to Kyosho o-rings). What i did was before i bought my 410, did my homework first and gathered all info/tips needed for the assembly, and true enough, it paid off.

Im happy with my 410 but eagerly waiting for the 210.

Amen.

JosephShanks
18-04-2011, 09:49 PM
Captian, did you by chance put the gearbox build guide that Durango posted a link to to use? Here it is again. http://www.team-durango.com/blog/?p=2584 I bought my Rango used from a friend at the track. A couple gears were chewed up and the car sounded like a chain saw. When rebuilding the car found my friend had not taken all the "slack" out of the bevel gear(imput shaft). I have a couple weeks on the car now with no problems. I too think the problem was the bevel gear. Also the set screw for the bevel gear gear needs to be good and tight with the proper amount of loctite. Good luck! :thumbsup: Joseph.

Gonzo
18-04-2011, 10:11 PM
Captian, did you by chance put the gearbox build guide that Durango posted a link to to use? Here it is again. http://www.team-durango.com/blog/?p=2584 I bought my Rango used from a friend at the track. A couple gears were chewed up and the car sounded like a chain saw. When rebuilding the car found my friend had not taken all the "slack" out of the bevel gear(imput shaft). I have a couple weeks on the car now with no problems. I too think the problem was the bevel gear. Also the set screw for the bevel gear gear needs to be good and tight with the proper amount of loctite. Good luck! :thumbsup: Joseph.

The last picture of that build guide was the most important for me too. Most people I know take that play away using 2cm of electrical tape at the top and bottom of the bevel bearings. That s probably not a nice solution to put on the blog, but maybe better than overtightening those 2 screws.

Maybe Durango can change their (inner?) mold so it leaves a little more material behind at the top and bottom of the bevel bearings.Then the picture that says
"Tighten the grub screw whilst applying pressure to squeeze the two halves together."
becomes less critical, because sideways pressure on ball bearings cant improve smoothness and bearing life.

For 3 months now I use 2 pieces of electrical tape, and a copper shim at each side: all my gearboxes are very free, and no teeth breaking anymore. (before 1 diff ring every month, no matter what shims and where)

pitwizard
18-04-2011, 10:15 PM
How did this all work out in the end captain? :confused:

captainlip
19-04-2011, 05:38 PM
I'll update this....

diffs are back and in the car and running smoothish so far, hoping to get upto rossmods track tommorrow night. bill from durango was £60.

reasons for the shits failing was a number of reasons that could easily be overlooked.

1. bearings had collapsed. to the naked and untrained eye they seemed fine to me. :blush:

2. gearboxes where stripped at the screws as they had been opened and closed all the time (because of 2 rebuilds and shimming) this meant the cases werent closed tight enough causing movement in the meshing. either way i sent them to rango as they were after 4 heats and were in a real bad way.

they noted wear in some of the pins and other bits. for to date my diffs have cost me £150. they were rebuilt by adam skelding so should be fine.

I cant fault the customer service, but have to say durango failed to realise I had to rebuild these twice, the first set lasted 2 meets, meaning something failed to quickly, some of it would have been down to builder error but cant help that something was wrong out the box.

either way its resolved now, i have my version of events and rango completely believe it was user error. after £150 just on diff parts and sending it to be rebuilt by a pro, if this happens again i will send them to rango covered in excrement and the rest will be in the for sale section.

but for now i will continue to support and race with rango products as i freaking love them.....just loath the diffs. :thumbsup:

AmiSMB
19-04-2011, 08:53 PM
I think you should invest in some digital calipers for making measurements and not use a tape measure as this will help in the future. I set my bearings to what they state in the manual but found that the shaft moved in and out of the gear box so just took up the excess by moving the output cup closer to the outer bearing making sure that it still had a little float but not too much. I also recommend using a small amount of electrical tape on the top and bottom of each bearing so that the plastic diff cases hold the bearings a lot tighter.

As I found with my Losi 8ight-T when the ring and pinion failed and I just replaced them it went again almost straight away. The only way to fix it properly was new bearings, new ring and pinion and new gearbox plastic. I have been in the game a long time and even I made the mistake of not replacing all items and I did not check the rest of the car and on the next run found that the centre diff was also ruined as it had got too hot and the cross pins had melted the diff case which could only be seen when it was opened up.

pitwizard
21-04-2011, 06:08 PM
I'll update this....

diffs are back and in the car and running smoothish so far, hoping to get upto rossmods track tommorrow night. bill from durango was £60.

reasons for the shits failing was a number of reasons that could easily be overlooked.

1. bearings had collapsed. to the naked and untrained eye they seemed fine to me. :blush:

2. gearboxes where stripped at the screws as they had been opened and closed all the time (because of 2 rebuilds and shimming) this meant the cases werent closed tight enough causing movement in the meshing. either way i sent them to rango as they were after 4 heats and were in a real bad way.

they noted wear in some of the pins and other bits. for to date my diffs have cost me £150. they were rebuilt by adam skelding so should be fine.

I cant fault the customer service, but have to say durango failed to realise I had to rebuild these twice, the first set lasted 2 meets, meaning something failed to quickly, some of it would have been down to builder error but cant help that something was wrong out the box.

either way its resolved now, i have my version of events and rango completely believe it was user error. after £150 just on diff parts and sending it to be rebuilt by a pro, if this happens again i will send them to rango covered in excrement and the rest will be in the for sale section.

but for now i will continue to support and race with rango products as i freaking love them.....just loath the diffs. :thumbsup:


So you built them wrong? :confused::confused::confused:

I really want to buy one, but am worried about building the diffs. I'll probably get a friend to help me.

Big G
21-04-2011, 06:18 PM
the diffs are as easy as breathing to build properly. This is 1 person who's had problems who's admitted it was user fault to blame.

the dex410 is an awesome car. you won't regret it! :)

RC John
21-04-2011, 06:20 PM
So you built them wrong? :confused::confused::confused:

I really want to buy one, but am worried about building the diffs. I'll probably get a friend to help me.
The diffs are finicky to build, and the lack of details in the instructions don't help. But if you follow the tips mentioned in this thread, and take your time, you should be ok.

dpackster1980
21-04-2011, 06:52 PM
The diffs are the easiest diffs to build they are standard gear diffs nothing special. If you can't build a simple diff then there's something wrong with you and you should buy yourself a rtr. :thumbdown:

2 e-clips and 4 screws?????? What the hell is so difficult about that. I can't believe people are struggling with that. :p

steel
21-04-2011, 07:06 PM
Ive got to agree the diffs are easy to build and hassle free my sons been running mine every week since they first come out and had no problems with the diffs at all and he is also a bad throttle junky durango gets 10/10 from me :thumbsup:
Also just incase anyone was wondering it was mine till i lent it to him and he loves it that much he wont give me it back lol

Rebelrc
21-04-2011, 08:15 PM
Easy !!!:thumbsup:
No problems
If you could do a Childs jigsaw you will be fine