More brake on LRP Sphere comp 007?

[dewil]

Hello guys!
I wonder if it is possible to set more brake on the esc? I can find "initial brake" and "automatic brake" in the manual but would like to increase the brake-power. I dont want the wheels to lock but not far from it.

The esc is a LRP Sphere comp 007 with a 6,5t lrp brushless motor. The transmitter is a Hitec lynx 3D.

Really epreciate any help!
/Will

[Chris Green]

Is the LRP motor bonded or sintered? A sintered motor will give improved braking.

[Dunc]

Deleted so as to not mislead any further :rolleyes:

[Richard Lowe]

The initial brake only adjusts how strong the brakes are initially, the overall braking strength is the same on all settings ;)

All it is really is like changing the brake 'curve' and 'punch' on a KO transmitter. A sintered motor will give stronger brakes overall, I'm not 100% sure but I think the lower turn motors have (slightly) stronger brakes too.

[Dunc]

Thanks Rich, I stand corrected. I didn't realise the brakes were also based on a profile like the throttle.

In my defence I was reading the supplementary manual, whose explanation is not as expansive as the original user guide where it clearly states: "...allows you to set a certain level of 'hand-brake effect', i.e. you can vary the minimum brake effect when you apply the brake."

Next time I'll read the manual in full :rolleyes:

[Richard Lowe]

Haha, I don't think it's worded too well from what I remember :confused:

I run mine on 1-3-2-2 in the BJ4 with a sintered 5.5 and it's got plenty of brakes for me, unlike the QC2 which never had enough braking strength for the fairly heavy BJ4.

[hickston]

isnt the 1 in the 1-3-2-2 the auto battery setup and it cuts off when the battery pack drops to a certain level? (for Lipos)

Could be me, I think I just remember reading it recently...:eh?:

[Richard Lowe]

isnt the 1 in the 1-3-2-2 the auto battery setup and it cuts off when the battery pack drops to a certain level? (for Lipos)

Could be me, I think I just remember reading it recently...:eh?:

Can't remember lol

It's whichever one is NIMH mode :p

[dewil]

Is the LRP motor bonded or sintered? A sintered motor will give improved braking.

Its a bonded motor. Seems from your answers that there isn´t much to do exept try a sintered rotor.

Thanks for all the help! (Love the fast responses on this board!=))

[RogerM]

I had a similar proble with my Nosram / LRP combination.

In my case it was that the settings had drifted from the original, once I reset my transmitter it had plenty of brakes to lock the wheels on a 2wd!

No I make a point of checking that I get full brake and full throttle before each run, it's not drifted since but it doesn't hurt to check ..... just be careful not to free rev a brushless motor when checking you get full travel.

Worth a try before changing the motor.

[Spoolio]

I am having this problem too. I can have either no brakes or as soon as I even think about touching the stick back I get lock up and instant 180 spins. There is nothing in between at all.

I run an LRP Eraser 10.5T brushless, Futaba 3GR transmitter and Sphere Comp 2007, settings are 1-1-2-3. The yellow setup sheet with the speedo says to set the unit up with the radio at 100% but then recommends running it at 80% on bonded motors (which mine is). The tranny has EPA on the steering but the throttle only has something called ATL-BK and if I adjust this to anything less than 100% I get absolutely no brakes at all and hitting things is getting expensive. It also means I am not fully confident with the car which means slow times.

Anybody else running this transmitter / speedo that can offer some advice.

[Southwell]

That just sounds like either a speedo setup error or possibly a pot giving up on the tranny?

[RogerM]

This does seem to be a problem with the Speedos ....... had it again yesterday and now have spoken to several other people who have also experienced the same!!!!!

[sim]

Spoolio,
Is the Eraser rebuildable? Like can you clean the bearings, change the rotor, etc?

[Spoolio]

That just sounds like either a speedo setup error or possibly a pot giving up on the tranny?

I hope its not the tranny, its only a few weeks old!

[Spoolio]

Spoolio,
Is the Eraser rebuildable? Like can you clean the bearings, change the rotor, etc?

I think so, an advert in one of the mags said it was rebuildable and I'm sure you can change the bearings - I got it 'cos its cheap and its plenty fast enough for me. Running a 23T pinion it was outdragging plenty of cars in my heat down the straight, but it all went t*ts up at the corner as soon as I thought about braking - even in a straight line I was spinning out on minimal stick movement.

[Spoolio]

This does seem to be a problem with the Speedos ....... had it again yesterday and now have spoken to several other people who have also experienced the same!!!!!

A problem with LRP Sphere Comps, or just in general? I dunno, am I expecting too much, I am pretty new at all this - but I did my first round with a boggo Tamiya kit speedo and it had reasonably well proportioned brakes rather than the all or nothing effect I have now.:confused:

[RogerM]

Spoolio .... if the breaks feel very violent turn down the inital brake setting ... if the car doesn't coast in neutral then turn down the drag brake setting.

What I was refering to is not getting full brakes after a few runs as the speedo 'forgets' the correct end point. Happened a few times on both my LRP and Nosram brushless speedos ..... just out of interest I checked the set-up on my micro and that is rock solid (Nosram Dominator Power speedo) so I am fairly sure it's not the transmitter pot.

[Spoolio]

The bit I really don't get is how to set the brake to 80% as per the LRP user guide recommendation. It alludes to this being done on the radio itself so I assume it means set the end point to 80%, but my Futaba 3GR doesn't have throttle end point adjustments, but it does have this ATL-BK thingy. The (fairly useless) manual could be interpreted as this feature only working on the second servo for a nitro car but I am starting to think I am just thick!:mad::(:confused:

[RogerM]

ATL - (actuator travel limit) - BraKe is what your after (in this case the throttle actuator is the speedo)

[Mike Hudson]

I've never seen this much of a problem with the lrp/nosram speedos or transmitters i had used to have an awful setup on my transmitter which made my car 180 when i braked the slightest bit but after i resloved that the setup is now perfect :)

[RogerM]

I've used LRP / Nosram equipment since the V6 speedos and never had any problems until these two ... both doing the same!!!

I am sure LRP / Nosram will get to the bottom of it though and am equally sure my next speedos will also be LRP / Nosram.

[Spoolio]

ATL - (actuator travel limit) - BraKe is what your after (in this case the throttle actuator is the speedo)

No, def not the ATL-BK setting as if I drop this below 100%, even to 99% I get zero brakes (I tried it at low speed and the car just carried on and ran into an old lady (!) so I thought maybe it'll be more noticeable at high speed - consequently I swiped the wall at the end of the straight and took out a front wishbone. Not good.

Last night I had a revelation and re-re-re-read the manual again (Futaba, your radios are as good as your manuals are bad), and there IS a brake EPA, it just takes some finding in the menus. I have turned it down to 80% as per the LRP recommendations and reset the speedo to the guideline base settings and it has transformed the car. I'll probably still crash a lot but now it'll be just my fault, can't blame the setup any more.