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Nigel
19-05-2011, 06:14 AM
well im starting to have second thoughts on my purchase on this buggy. because i seem to have problem after problem now

problem 1: my diff's are really smooth but when i put the diff's drive shafts into the slipper/spur assembly and try to spin it i feel a lot of friction. too much to be normal.

so i took out the diff's and just put my spur/slipper assembly onto its mount that it sits on when its in the buggy and when i spun it i felt a lot of friction. so this is my problem with the too much friction.

has anyone else had this problem? if so how do you fix it or dose it go away after a couple of runs?

problem 2: my front diff seems to be losing a lot of its diff fluid ad my rear has lost a bit and i have not even run my buggy yet. i even followed all the diff building instructions online perfectly. is there any seals i can use to fix this problem? i have seen threads about this before. but i have not even run my buggy yet so im wondering if something else is wrong with my diffs.

problem 3: on my spur/slipper assembly the side that is longer seems to be crooked. i noticed this when i put the diff drive shafts in and spun it. because the whole shaft started to wobble. im not really sure what the heck is wrong here since i assembled it all correctly (at least i think i did.)
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/4928/screenshot20110518at110.png (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/233/screenshot20110518at110.png/)



not really a problem but dose anyone use these little round plastic piece's that go over the end of the drive shaft because i had a hard time putting them on but when i got them on they kept popping off.
http://i481.photobucket.com/albums/rr171/1slash/Screenshot2011-05-18at104750PM-1.png

OoD1S
19-05-2011, 08:01 AM
Problem 1: Mate check the bearings, you may have a seized one. My car had a total of 5 mins on it and i had 5 seized bearings. (must be super quality bearings from Kazakhstan).

Problem 2: The kit diff seals are shit there is no other way to beat around the bush, I have had success by using standard xrings but before i put them in i put a shit tin of grease on them then place them into there moldings they will still leak but it takes a bit longer for it to start. I have tryed P5 kyosho rings but they did not free up enough to be usable for me.
There are tresrey ones but they are P5 ones aswell but they may be a different compound and loosen up more? ANYONE BUELER BUELER !

Problem 3: Check the fitment of the pin that goes into that part ie does it sit straight, mine is a little off and does wobble a bit but does not affect the car at all. The little covers on the drive shaft piss them off, they are very annoying i use good thread lock on grub screw and then put heat shrink over that. ( I had a problem where the little pin did not have the cut out directly center of pin so it would work its way loose all the time even with the plastic cover on, solution was to get a new pin that had a correctly cut out bit on it no probs at all now).

I feel your pain man everyone said how good the workmanship is on these cars but mine did not have the same quality i guess mine was a friday afternoon car!

Hope this helps you.

captainlip
19-05-2011, 08:12 AM
I feel your pain man everyone said how good the workmanship is on these cars but mine did not have the same quality i guess mine was a friday afternoon car!

Hope this helps you.


coolio

Kurtje
19-05-2011, 08:28 AM
I use the tresrey rings and they are very good... No leeks at all, put some green slime on it and right into the diffs...

The wobble with the slipper, that problem i have also... Don't know where it's coming from :( But it doesn't affect the driving skills...

jimmy
19-05-2011, 09:09 AM
The DNX408 shock seals can be used in place of the X-rings. I'm surprised you're having them leak without even running though, sounds very odd indeed.

Problem 1 and 3 sound to be the same thing. I'd check your slipper pads are properly located in the spur gear if you're having too much friction as a skewed slipper shaft wouldn't really give you loads of friction?

Drop TD an email at support@team-durango.com

Fabs
19-05-2011, 09:26 AM
I use the tresrey rings and they are very good... No leeks at all, put some green slime on it and right into the diffs...

The wobble with the slipper, that problem i have also... Don't know where it's coming from :( But it doesn't affect the driving skills...


Leek's nice but it gives bad breath if you're not careful :lol:

Big G
19-05-2011, 10:09 AM
The last issue I had to do what Jimmy did

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/review410r/centreshaft03.jpg

The rear one finally went on, but the front snapped. I've never had a problem with the pins coming out though. I've now got little boots over both CVD's to stop dust, etc getting into the grease.

Best thing to do is contact durango. they are more than helpful when it comes to support via email or trackside

stegger
19-05-2011, 11:18 AM
The last issue I had to do what Jimmy did

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/review410r/centreshaft03.jpg

The rear one finally went on, but the front snapped. I've never had a problem with the pins coming out though. I've now got little boots over both CVD's to stop dust, etc getting into the grease.

Best thing to do is contact durango. they are more than helpful when it comes to support via email or trackside


I've also heard of people boiling there rings !!! :eh?: So they go on better ;)

Reo
19-05-2011, 03:44 PM
i drop the plastic rings and use a shrinking tube

RC John
19-05-2011, 05:51 PM
( I had a problem where the little pin did not have the cut out directly center of pin so it would work its way loose all the time even with the plastic cover on, solution was to get a new pin that had a correctly cut out bit on it no probs at all now).

I have this problem as well, along with the others mentioned. I ordered a new package of 2mm pins and they all had cut outs that were not centered, just like the ones that came with my kit. I fixed the problem by cutting the cut outs better with my dremel. The pins have stayed in place since I've done this, and I don't bother with the little plastic collar, which I agree is a pain in the ass.

RC John
19-05-2011, 05:54 PM
I feel your pain man everyone said how good the workmanship is on these cars but mine did not have the same quality i guess mine was a friday afternoon car!

I believe all durangos are made on Fridays.

Dazzler
19-05-2011, 06:20 PM
I believe all durangos are made on Fridays.

I think it's more a case of they are assembled on Fridays..

For instance, Captainlips diffs are a classic example, where on inspection all the threads were stripped in the diff housing, and he wondered why things were going out of mesh and gears were stripping.

If you disregard the builder errors, it would be fair to say there are no more issues than would be expected of any mass produced kit. And for every customer that reported on a forum that they had a problem, I'm sure there are hundreds of satisfied customers.

As for the original poster, don't regret your purchase, just resolve your little niggles as the chassis is great.

As Jimmy has suggested above, problems 1 & 3 will almost certainly be related, as the bearings should be running true on the axis of the spur/slipper assy. Have you checked that you have not cross threaded the rear (long) drive cup??

Problem 2, take your choice of seals available and advised on this forum, but I am running standard X rings with no issues.

As for the plastic driveshaft rings, think of them as a safety device for people who can't build CVD's :woot:

Nigel
19-05-2011, 06:25 PM
well with problem 1: none of my bearings are seized. but i forgot to put the shims in on both the sides and now it seems to be smooth (it used to be hard to turn and then easy in some parts) but i can still feel some friction but maybe i am over rating it :confused:

and with problem 2: i will just have to end up getting some tresrey seals then are these the ones? http://www.tresrey-usa.com/products/O%252dRING-P5-%28BLACK%7B47%7D8pcs%29.html

and problem 3: i am going to try rebuilding my slipper and see how it works. but no from what i can tell i have not cross threaded the slipper/spur long drive cup. but i just found out my spur is also wobbling a bit too when i spin it.

Nigel
19-05-2011, 06:53 PM
ok i just rebuilt my slipper/spur twice now and i still have the wobble. so i guess i will just have to leave it there.

jimmy
19-05-2011, 08:00 PM
You can leave it sure - but I suggested you to contact TD support, it's your choice to leave it or sort it out. :thumbsup:

Nigel
19-05-2011, 08:36 PM
ok i will contact TD then.

RC John
19-05-2011, 10:21 PM
If you disregard the builder errors, it would be fair to say there are no more issues than would be expected of any mass produced kit.
I could not disagree with you more. I've built quite a few kits in my 12 years in this hobby. The durango definitely has had more issues than any car I've built.
As I said before, the cut outs on my CVDs were not cut in the middle. Even the replacement I bought were offset. I don't think dremeling set screw slots should be considered a part of "proper assembly"
I also had to dremel the shaft on the bevel gear P/N 310005, because the shaft was too long and I could not squeeze the assembly to eliminate play in the bearings.
The plastics used throughout the kit is too weak. I've never had to replace the servo horn or servo saver on a car till I got the durango. The rear gearbox positioner and the rear gearbox inserts also are too weak. Durangos fix is to replace everything with aluminum. That works, but it would have been way cheaper to use a better plastic.
I could not believe that even the stock body doesn't fit without hitting the spur gear cover. I know they raised the gear assembly to allow the use of thicker Lipos, but how about changing the body so it fits.
Now that I've fixed all the issues I know of, I'm pretty happy with my car, but to say the fit and finish of the durango is excellent, or that it's as good as any other kit, I don't think so.

Bozzspeed
19-05-2011, 10:28 PM
Where are you diffs leaking from?

near the outdrive cups (seals)

or

where the diff gear screws to the diff case.

Bozzspeed
19-05-2011, 10:38 PM
Im with you Dazzler.

RC John - did you sit on your body for it to hit the gear cover? :)I don't understand how you can manage to get the body to do this.

JohnM
19-05-2011, 10:57 PM
I could not disagree with you more. I've built quite a few kits in my 12 years in this hobby. The durango definitely has had more issues than any car I've built.
As I said before, the cut outs on my CVDs were not cut in the middle. Even the replacement I bought were offset. I don't think dremeling set screw slots should be considered a part of "proper assembly"
I also had to dremel the shaft on the bevel gear P/N 310005, because the shaft was too long and I could not squeeze the assembly to eliminate play in the bearings.
The plastics used throughout the kit is too weak. I've never had to replace the servo horn or servo saver on a car till I got the durango. The rear gearbox positioner and the rear gearbox inserts also are too weak. Durangos fix is to replace everything with aluminum. That works, but it would have been way cheaper to use a better plastic.
I could not believe that even the stock body doesn't fit without hitting the spur gear cover. I know they raised the gear assembly to allow the use of thicker Lipos, but how about changing the body so it fits.
Now that I've fixed all the issues I know of, I'm pretty happy with my car, but to say the fit and finish of the durango is excellent, or that it's as good as any other kit, I don't think so.

Thing is, I couldn't disagree with you more John, I would say that I've had less issues with my Durango, then any other car I've had in the last 29 years of playing with RC cars.

HyperFX
19-05-2011, 11:26 PM
I have an original DEX410 that did not have the dragging slipper problem, but I bought a DEX410R for my oldest Son that did have the problem. To remedy this, I carefully removed a small amount of material from the bottom of the slipper cover/clamp, where it contacts the rear bearing. I did not need to remove material where it contacts the front bearing, only the rear.

The wobble you're experiencing could be a poorly machined front slipper plate, or the rear slipper outdrive. You can check it by removing the rear slipper outdrive (the part you circled in the image), and then place the slipper in the mount with the cover/clamp installed. Spin it while looking for wobble. If there is no wobble, the rear slipper outdrive could be bad. Contact TD. If it wobbles, contact TD for a front slipper plate replacement.

Let's stay on topic, please.

Nigel
20-05-2011, 12:31 AM
I have an original DEX410 that did not have the dragging slipper problem, but I bought a DEX410R for my oldest Son that did have the problem. To remedy this, I carefully removed a small amount of material from the bottom of the slipper cover/clamp, where it contacts the rear bearing. I did not need to remove material where it contacts the front bearing, only the rear.

The wobble you're experiencing could be a poorly machined front slipper plate, or the rear slipper outdrive. You can check it by removing the rear slipper outdrive (the part you circled in the image), and then place the slipper in the mount with the cover/clamp installed. Spin it while looking for wobble. If there is no wobble, the rear slipper outdrive could be bad. Contact TD. If it wobbles, contact TD for a front slipper plate replacement.

Let's stay on topic, please.

ok i tried what you said and even when i removed the part i circled in the picure it still wobbled and the spur did too. so im pretty sure its a bad slipper clutch plate.

and i will try shaving some of that plastic down on the slipper cover/clamp but im thinking the problem with the bent slipper clutch plate is related to this problem?

thanks :)

JosephShanks
20-05-2011, 04:02 AM
Concerning the wobbly slipper assembly. When I install the slipper assembly in the mount and just hold it there and spin with my fingers I can't detect a wobble. It only happens for me when the cover is on. I wonder if it is somehow related to the plastic half of the diff mount. I believe they were both aluminum on the 410 non R???

HyperFX
20-05-2011, 04:13 AM
... and i will try shaving some of that plastic down on the slipper cover/clamp but im thinking the problem with the bent slipper clutch plate is related to this problem?

thanks :)

That's very possible.
Just be patient with it. The DEX410 is, IMO, the best RC I've owned in 25 yrs of racing them. It's not perfect, nothing is, but it's definitely on the right track! I spent the first couple months after purchase, learning it's quirks, adjusting, testing, and modifying, and now I do a little preventive maint. and just enjoy racing it.
You're gonna love it!

tomtom
20-05-2011, 10:33 AM
I bought a R second hand (might be the ticket to skip building it !!).

Got lots of play on the ball studs and the spur didn't turn straight. Changed some bearings and put a RW spur and it did the trick.

Just one run, got really hot but what an amazing car, turns like no others and so much torque and grip. I'm sold 100%. Got to learn how to set it up properly as far as slipper, play and others little detail but seems very solid.

juergen_jl
20-05-2011, 12:37 PM
I could not disagree with you more. I've built quite a few kits in my 12 years in this hobby. The durango definitely has had more issues than any car I've built.

100% correct. I built many RC cars, but -concerning the relation price: easyness to build, the Durango is the worst car I ever had. Any car could be build without to much dremeling, filing, but here you need it for almost any step. (not to mention, that the wiring is a tough approach due to the design of the body)

I have most of the issues mentioned, additionally one more: I bought a complete diff set, to have a easier way to change set-up. Unfortunately the bearings delivered in this package have a smaller inner diameter than the housings of the diff. OK, filing the plastic may work, but the metal teeth wheel?

Sorry Durango, but the manufacturing quality of your car is bad and not worth the price I payed for it.

If Schumacher would understand, that the way how they mount the front and rear Axle of the CAT SX II (and III) is poor and way to weak, I would go back at to them any second.

Nigel
20-05-2011, 08:45 PM
ok well im thinking my problem with the wobbling spur. is the bearings! they are off center i still have to do some more things like try some other bearings but im thinking its the bearings.

EDIT: wait im wrong its a slipper clutch plate after some more testing.

telboy
20-05-2011, 10:25 PM
If the diffs are leaking even before it has been run, it suggests to me that they've been over filled and when the main gear is screwed into place it may have popped the seals?

Easy to do the first time.

I ran std seals on mine and only ever replaced one set in a year and half. And that was just because I stripped it all down and just renewed parts.

TonyM
20-05-2011, 11:03 PM
Having just built a Losi 22 shortly after my DEX410R and DESC410R I can say that the Rango is heads-above the Losi on quality. OK so the Rango has it's quirks like the weak servo saver, but once you are on top of the obvious niggles you end up with an extremely robust buggy which drives like a dream.

BTW I only bought the 22 while waiting for the DEX210.

Nigel
21-05-2011, 12:31 AM
If the diffs are leaking even before it has been run, it suggests to me that they've been over filled and when the main gear is screwed into place it may have popped the seals?

Easy to do the first time.

I ran std seals on mine and only ever replaced one set in a year and half. And that was just because I stripped it all down and just renewed parts.

well i ended up finding my diff problem.

non of the diffs where leaking but one of the diff gears that go's on the output shaft was too tight making the other diff seem a lot looser but really the tighter one was just tighter because the gear that was on the output shaft was really jammed in place

Nigel
30-05-2011, 10:19 PM
i emailed durango about a week about and the day after i got a reply asking for my number on the side of my box so i sent them that and they just sent off a replacement :thumbsup:

juergen_jl
01-06-2011, 08:12 AM
I think, I will check it out, if the direct connect will work, too. I bought a diff (TD210001) and the diff ring gear is too wide, to put the ball bearing onto it. I tried to sand it, but this does not really works. I do not have a machine park at home, so I expect the parts to fit perfectly.

Nigel
06-06-2011, 08:12 PM
ok after putting the slipper/spur assembly back together it seems to not want to slide in easily like they show it dose in the manual.

http://i481.photobucket.com/albums/rr171/1slash/pictures%20of%20my%20RC%20cars/Screenshot2011-06-06at10310PM-1.png

can i just remove one of the washers it has between the bearings and the slipper plate?

Dazzler
06-06-2011, 08:43 PM
Seems odd, you can shim to suit, but just make sure the bearings are fully up against the slipper pressure plates, and that you haven't accidentally trapped a badly located slipper pad. That may be giving you wider assembly.

Nigel
06-06-2011, 09:30 PM
i know i did have to use one of the spare shims that come in the miscellaneous bag but im pretty sure its the same size.

Dazzler
06-06-2011, 09:47 PM
The different thickness are different materials / colours. Copper colour, 0.1mm, silver coloured 0.2mm thick. So you can decide from that if they were the same. But, as said, if it's too tight, remove a shim, too tight add a shim..

Nigel
06-06-2011, 10:08 PM
ok thanks :) i tried a copper shim on one side and a silver on the other and it works now :thumbsup:

once i got it in tho i did notice a tiny bit of wobble but im pretty sure its normal. but just to be sure could someone look at this video i made. you can hardily see the wobble but you can see it more near the end of he video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQ1wnuEPrjQ

Dazzler
06-06-2011, 10:56 PM
Hard to tell quite what you can see there, video is a little out of focus, actually, a lot. Try again, a little further away.

Nigel
07-06-2011, 12:34 AM
ok sorry i did not realize it was that out of focus because i only viewed the the video on the camera :blush: so i will remake it :)

kabilay
07-06-2011, 12:11 PM
ok thanks :) i tried a copper shim on one side and a silver on the other and it works now :thumbsup:

once i got it in tho i did notice a tiny bit of wobble but im pretty sure its normal. but just to be sure could someone look at this video i made. you can hardily see the wobble but you can see it more near the end of he video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQ1wnuEPrjQ


Hi mate, I had the same issue and my local distributor replaced the center axle with no cost.

RC John
07-06-2011, 03:16 PM
Hi mate, I had the same issue and my local distributor replaced the center axle with no cost.
Did the new one fix it?
I also have this issue in my car, and have been running for a few months like that. I assumed it was due to poor manufacturing so I figured a new one would most likely be the same.

Nigel
07-06-2011, 08:25 PM
i am going to make a new video soon for you guys to see so you can see if its anything to worry about.

Soo
10-06-2011, 09:22 AM
In my opinion there is only few major problems with dex410.

And if team can fix those dex would be wonderful car.

-Re-design rear bulkhead -> More material or aluminium or/and add seperate wing mount.

-Re-design diff cases. -> Those are too flexy, which causes broken diff gears.
-> More material or harder plastic.

-Aluminium servo saver as standard.

And of course many other minor problems.

Nigel
10-06-2011, 11:42 PM
ok here is a video of the shaft wobbling with a better camera http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boFAQYlXb5Y

tomtom
11-06-2011, 12:02 AM
Not an expert on the 410 but mine was wobbling a bit too at low revolutions but more stable at regular speeds.
Change the spur to an RW as it was not perfectly flat, it was better. Then noticed the CVD parts on the diffs sides did move under acceleration, pointing up once the trigger got pushed, a few mm but still. Retightened diffs covers and it was way better.
Did not move since, a bit of wobbling on both slipper outdrives. Seems normal

Dazzler
11-06-2011, 07:34 AM
ok here is a video of the shaft wobbling with a better camera http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boFAQYlXb5Y

I wouldn't be worried about that, it's next to nothing, I think with the lightened drive cups how they are, it gives an impression of movement as the shape you see is constantly changing during rotation. At the outer end, it is consistent in shape and from what I can see it hardly moves.

P.s. Don't forget to put the grub screw in the slipper adjustment nut!

TonyM
11-06-2011, 08:37 AM
I've probably got even more wobble on my 410 than shown in your video. It's nothing to worry about and has never caused any problems.

JamesRumble
11-06-2011, 12:42 PM
Yes as TonyM says, I also have loads more movement in my 410 than your video shows and thus far has not been a problem.

Nigel
11-06-2011, 04:37 PM
ok sounds good guys :) oh and thanks for pointing that out Dazzler i would have never noticed that :blush: