Croc is rolling

[frogger]

The rolling chassis is ... rolling!

Very easy build, typical of Tamiya.

The Aeration shocks - very high quality BUT... the standard o-rings completely bind the shock shaft so they have to be rebuilt using the low friction o-rings from Tamiya (part #40530). Once the low friction o-rings are in (with a bit of shock slime) you have to cut quite a lot of coils from the springs. Buttery smooth! I have also removed some of the internal limiters on the front shocks to give more droop. They are super easy to bleed and build bubble free! But if I was buying again I would not waste my money on these and simply get some 3Racing Mini-t shocks.

Also - the Hitec HS-85MG servo fits straight in by cutting about 1mm of the tabs each side and it's also a direct fit to the included servo horn.

My 4100kv motor has not arrived yet so for the moment it has a Tekin 6.9 in as a place holder.

http://carlventer.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/croc2.JPG

http://carlventer.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/croc3.JPG

http://carlventer.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/croc4.JPG

http://carlventer.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/croc5.JPG

http://carlventer.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/croc1.JPG

[low13]

i feel like a perv just looking at it..it's that sexc
but with that alloy the tekin may be tamed

[big air]

what is it :confused: old school re release or something new :o

[Danosborne6661]

Well the original Tamiya of this style was10th. These beauts are Micro! 1/16th scale so quite alot smaller than the 10th :) The GB-01 has been out for a little while now but alot of people have been seeing Jimmys at some of the Micro nationals and been going 'Woow!'. So with a bit of discussion on the UK-MicroRC forum we now have our own 2WD Open class at the next UK-Micro X (March), which is a 1 off event us Microers have every now and then, with the first Micro AGM being called a few weeks after the Micro-X and if everything goes well at this event hopefully we will keep our new 2WD class for next micro winter series :) So quite a few people have bought the Tamiya GB-01, Mini-t's etc to support the new 2WD class :)

[frogger]

what is it :confused: old school re release or something new :o

As Dan says it's a 1/16th scale new release of the old Desert Gator ;) You can fit any Tamtech off road body on it such as Frog, Hornet, DG, etc.

[frogger]

Electrics are in and very basic spray can paint job done to start with.

Running it with an 11.1v lipo battery and 6800kv Tekin brushless motor :D

http://carlventer.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/croc9.JPG

http://carlventer.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/croc15.JPG

[frogger]

I raced the car tonight for the first time at Wycombe and all I can say is WOW - it really drives just like a 1/10th scale 2WD buggy! Absolutely amazing. :D

In my opinion it has incredibly good steering (maybe all the alloy bits has something to do with it), jumps really well and is extremely, EXTREMELY robust (broken nothing all night despite 11.1v power and 6800kv brushless!!). Must get soft compound rear tyres though - the standard compound is OK once grip levels come up but the soft will be better!

There was a Mini-T there as well but unfortunately the guy had servo issues (no saver meant he kept breaking the gears) and so we didn't do a full race together. The Mini-T looked a bit smaller though.

Overall everyone that saw the Tamiya run commented on how well it seemed to go and was very impressed with lots of 'I can't believe how good it is and it's a Tamiya!' comments. :rolleyes:

I was unsure about the 11.1v and 6800kv combo but it seemed very well suited to the car. I didn't once feel it was over powered. I'm going to fit the 4100kv for comparison anyway and will report back. I think the higher voltage theory has really proved itself tonight as the motor got barely warm and I felt I had good controllable power low down with none of the usuall stuttering at very low speed. Probably partly due to the fact that you can't hammer the 2WD as hard as a 4WD but still, very well suited.

As for all the alloy bits - I actually think this is one car that does really well with all the alloy bits as it adds a bit of weight which is no bad thing! Ready to race with all the alloy bits and the whole lot - 653gr - heavier than a RC18 and lighter than my Blaze. But, do you really need them - no, I don't think so - I recon all you really 'need' is the 3Racing steering assembly, maybe the front knuckles and c-hubs and then lastly nice oil shocks (and I don't recommend the Tamiya Aeration shocks as they are weird seem to work ok but they don't feel too good on the bench bounce test).

I am sold on 2WD micro racing - it is so rewarding to drive. It's totally different to 4WD driving (no surprise there ) and you have to think about your driving and be really smooth especially mid corner - no over revving or braking or even taking your finger off the throttle! Lots and lots of fun :D

[Chris Doughty]

the car looks ace mate, very good indeed!

how many were there last night, wycombe would be my local club, I work here during the week, I might have to bring my RC18 for a blast around

[frogger]

Chris, you should absolutely come along mate! Most Monday nights we now get closer to 10 people so we run 2-3 heats. We even had 3 volunteer marshalls show up last night. They didn't drive, they just marshalled all night! :D Most people run RC18/Exotek's and some run Blaze's with a couple of 2WD's now starting to show up. Don't know if you know the club but it's a permanent venue so the track/tables/chairs/power points are all there ready in place.

Wycombe changes the track layout once a month to keep it fresh and there are pre-made wooden jumps (and we have some big and scary as well as slow and technical ones), a wall ride, a corner box jump thing that folds up and hangs on the wall.

A really good facility (toilets, coffee/tea - but you have to wash up your own cups :(......:D, central heating, etc.), very relaxed atmosphere and you get loads of track time inbetween races as well. You can litteraly drive for as long as you have batteries that have power in them!

[Chris Doughty]

I have been to wycombe a few times a little while ago.

I think I need to get my kit together and come back.

[frogger]

Aah, so you know it well then :)

A couple of people are on holiday over the next 2 weeks so next Monday night might be a bit thin on the ground but I am sure there will still be people there. Back to normal numbers starting Feb I think.

[Chris Doughty]

I might bring my B4 along for a blast around the track in between.

I will see if I can get my kit together.

[frogger]

I had my B44 around the track a couple of times a while back but it was hard work :D Maybe you can show me how it should be done properly :cool:

[Chris Doughty]

I wonder if they would put on a heat for 10th scale? :D

its mega tight, I had a bit of a race around with a 10th snoring car, that was tight!

how were the jumps for your B44?

[frogger]

We didn't have jumps on the track that day so I didn't try it with jumps but I recon they should be just fine. We started looking into getting a bit more creative last night by building a cross over jump which worked quite well but not everyone was super keen as the landing was a bit dodgy and if you came up short you would slam into the wooden barrier and break something. I thought it was a good incentive to make the gap but everyone didn't agree :rolleyes:

I'm not sure if anyone would be up for a 10th heat, definitely worth checking! I have a B44, Rob has a B3 and if you come along then there are 3 of us (possibly more).

[Chris Doughty]

I started going down there when the mini-T just came out, we made some amazing ramps from flexible board and stuff.

I have a video of us doing some freestyle mini-t tricks, like 180 half pipe, jump the gap wall rides, spine ramps for backflips, it was very good.

I do agree with having a track that anybody car race on that is safe. but there should be some things that people can have fun with.

do you go down every monday?

[frogger]

Yep, every Monday evening starting 7pm (work permitting) and some Saturday evenings with my boy (wife permitting).

I see so many people complain about jumps being too big, too high, too this and that but in most cases it's simply a bit of practise and if people don't practise then they'll never get good at it so I am always encouraging the lot at Wycombe to try stuff out as I want to challenge myself and don't get the opportunity enough.

I took some BIG skate ramps in which are there (they should be awesome with a 1/10th!) but so far the 18th scale lot have not been too keen to try them. I'm working on them though and the are slowly coming around to my kind of thinking :D

Which reminds me, I need to go and buy some lino so we can have some drift sections as well!

[Chris Doughty]

sounds like fun, I will ramp anything

[Body Paint]

Doughty racing in the winter!!! what is the world coming to :p

[Chris Doughty]

I know, its very rare! but don't worry, its not actually happened yet!

[frogger]

Craig, why don't you and Jonathan come up one Monday night as well - the Atomic-Carbon posse all in one place! (I know it's a bit of a drive but what the hell hey!?).

[madness]

Looking for a carpet set-up for my GB 01... What wt oil is most commonly used? I am using the TamTech aluminum shocks.
Thanks

[sim]

I read on the UK Micro X forum where you mentioned a kickup mod. What is that? Thanks.

[frogger]

I run mine quite soft so 30W oil front and back. Can probably go up a bit. Some guys run up to 60W in the front. I've got rid of the Tamiya shocks and now use 3Racing shocks which in my opinion is a billion times better.

The kickup mod is where you remove the front kickup plate and then remove the 3 plastic lugs that are mounted on the chassis (simply snip them off using some flush cutters). That allows the front kickup plate to sit closer to the chassis and increase the kickup angle. I also had to dremel away a bit of the chassis to help the front A-arms clear (otherwise they bottom out before the chassis does!). It imporves the car no end.

[sim]

Thanks. I didn't get the GB-01 because I didn't like how it had no front kickup and caster. Right now, I've got the GB-02 which has a whole different front, but drives okay (needs more steering, might dig out the Dremel). My 2nd Tamtech will probably be the GB-01 kit like yours.

Since you started with a kit, I take it you tried the CVA shocks as well? Between the CVA, Aeration and 3Racing, your favourite is the 3Racing? Did you have to use their ball studs or did you just snap the shocks onto your Tamiya ball studs? I test fitted my 3Racing Mini-T shocks on my Tamtech and they were a loose fit on the Tamiya studs. The included 3Racing studs were a better fit but I think they were a 2.5mm screw thread instead of 2.6 so I didn't want to experiment too much.

[sim]

Hey frogger,

I tried to follow your example and run the HS85MG with the 3Racing steer rack but I've run into two hurdles - one is the servo screw isn't long enough and some odd size (M2.3?). 2nd is the Tamiya pin that is supposed to go through the 3Racing 620 bearings won't quite fit. Do I need to grind down the diameter some?

How did you do it?

Thanks.

[frogger]

You are correct, Hitec seems to think it's a brilliant idea to use screws that you can't buy anywhere! It is a 2.3mm or even a 2/56 screw - I have tried both and they both work fine. You'll struggle to find them though, I know Makita drills use 2.3mm internal screws. I got a pack of 2/56 screws from www.amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com) (yes, I know, Amazon!)

The 3Racing pin on mine was tight but it did fit, I guess your best option would be to grind it down a tiny bit to reduce the diameter.

Get some pics up when you are done bud.

[sim]

I bought some 2/56 screws today. Will put them on when I have some time :)

We can get both imperial and metric sizes here (Malaysia). It's those weird Japanese and Korean sizes that are hard to get (M2.3, M2.6, etc).

Will roll the pin around a spare cutting disk and see if I can get it to slim down.

Will post up the pics :)

[sim]

Installed the steering last night. Mostly done except now I have to remove the steering cross bar and cut/grind away the outer ball stud mounts that are hitting the springs on my GB-02.

I tried doing the Jimmy mod and space out the shocks further but I already added 2mm worth of spacers and they were still being hit by the steering. I didn't want to add any more spacers otherwise I would be left with only 2mm left of screw threads on the ball studs.

Anyway, posted up the install pics on my site http://www.bigbigplanet.com/rccars/gb02

Here are the pics...
http://www.bigbigplanet.com/rccars/gb02/gb02_16.jpgThe 2/56" countersunk screw worked.

http://www.bigbigplanet.com/rccars/gb02/gb02_17.jpgThe pin needed sanding down slightly.

http://www.bigbigplanet.com/rccars/gb02/gb02_18.jpg
Wires neatly tucked under the servo mounting top plate.

http://www.bigbigplanet.com/rccars/gb02/gb02_20.jpg
The Ackermann actually got worse with the 3Racing bellcrank. Next stage would be to mod the bellcrank to run longer steering links.

[frogger]

Good job! :thumbsup: