PDA

View Full Version : First few weeks ... some Questions


snook
27-06-2011, 08:59 AM
Hi

I'm fairly new to durango. I bought a dex410 about a month ago and it has been up and running for a few weeks now.
And there are some questions i could not answer by just lurking around in the forum. So i'm gona address them in a new thread.



- Tire wear: I noticed that the front tires wear much MUCH faster then the rears. I had a set of proline m4 in the front and ran it on astro, after 1 pack the front tire tread was gone and the rear looked almost new.
->Is this just a weight difference(lipo/nihm) or is there more going on than i know? what can i do to correct that?
- Ball Cups: the ballcups pop out quiet easily. I had popping after landing a jump, a little body to wheel grinding with a shortcourse, tumbling over and just barely missing a tree.
->Is this a known issue? should i try to fix it or is that like a intentional breaking point to prevent any more damage?
Solution: Ill stick with the fancy electrical tape mod for now, and eventually swap to rpm/losi cups and hpi/tc6 studs.

- Spurgear wobbling: I soon noticed quiet a lot of wobble in the spur gear. I looked around in de forum and users said that this is "ok" and "doesn't matter" so i ignored it. Only later i realized that the spur gear wobble is actually because of the slipperoutdrivepad not properly assembled, there is a tiny offset of the outdrive giving the spur play.
Solution: I decidet to let the spurgear desintegrate a little more. As long as it works its ok. A new Slipperoutdrive is orderd and should be here in a few days.
So now the gearmesh is very hard to set up, because the spur moves about .8 of a millimeter every turn. and after the first run i had tiny flakes of spur gear all over the inside of my body.
-> is this normal? how im i going to fix this? is replacing the slipperoutdrivepadthing the only way?
Solution: see above
- Servo Saver: is crap :( i broke mine within the first 10 min of driving, landing wasn't perfect but this shouldn't happen, i got the thersey servosaver crank after that.
-> will the other plastic part of the servo saver eventually give? is there an aftermarket option available?
Solution: I ordered another set of plastic parts just in case, but ill keep an eye out of alluminium servohorn.
- Durango Rims: I was very dissapointed with the durango rims. The rims that came with the kit wehere wobbly. I accepted that becaus i didn't know in what conditions and how long the kit was lieing around in the store and just ordered another set of rims. Thes were also wobbly even more than the one that that came with the kit. I had to order 3 sets of rims to get a combination that was somewhat even.
-> Is this normal? or has my LHS just a sold me some bad wheels? what set of rims are direct fits?


lots of questions i hope you guys can help me answer a few of them, thx

snook

jkclifford
27-06-2011, 09:26 AM
Uneven tyre where could be your set up, or the way you drive. Poping ball joints is a known problem I belive losi ball cups with hpi studs is the favoured upgrade.

Servo saver was probably too tight, change to ally parts break the horn or strip the gears.

Spur gear wobble is fine, escentric movement is not!!

snook
27-06-2011, 12:57 PM
Uneven tyre where could be your set up, or the way you drive.

setup is as kit suggsests with 35wt in front and 30wt in back. diffoils are 7k / 5k. all on astro, any problem with that?
im trying to drive as smooth as i can, i still need to get used to the car.


Poping ball joints is a known problem I belive losi ball cups with hpi studs is the favoured upgrade.
I found a hotfix today i used electrical tape under the ballstuds just a little peace. It puts a bit of binding into the suspention but the seem to fit better and there is less play. sofar i havent popped one. but i guess ill eventually upgrade to diffrent ball cups/studs.


Servo saver was probably too tight, change to ally parts break the horn or strip the gears.
Servo saver was set up as the manual suggsetet. as said i quickly switched to the tersey horn and i havent had a problem since, but i guesse the servo horn will be the next thing to break.


Spur gear wobble is fine, escentric movement is not!!
hmm i guess il have to get a replacement then...

t8rtot
27-06-2011, 01:25 PM
if your running m4 tires don't expect them to last long.. astro has massive grip and you'll do nothing but run those down. may consider running harder compound (m3).

in 4wd the fronts will wear a faster rate, regardless of the brand. the contact patch is smaller, and they recieve the same amount of drive, and they take friction of the turns (increasing wear)

Big G
27-06-2011, 01:26 PM
front tyres wearing faster. does the car push a lot during corner ie. understeer heavily?

can't say I've ever had a ball joint pop off in 8 months of ownership. I may change mine to purely remove the play.

I've had the plastic servo arm on mine since I built the car. I only replaced it for the red alloy one because I'm a tart :D

snook
27-06-2011, 01:57 PM
M4 vs. M3 compound:
i was just surprised how much difference it was, front tires no more tread at all and the rears barley had wear at all. just the most inner pins of the rears had suffered a wee bit.

front tyres wearing faster. does the car push a lot during corner ie. understeer heavily?

no not really actually, it turns quiet predictable into corners with a bit of oversteer but if im not gentle with the throttle the back breaks out immediately. Its easy to correct once you know it.


I've had the plastic servo arm on mine since I built the car. I only replaced it for the red alloy one because I'm a tart
hmm maybe it was a faulty plastic part, cant rly tell.

RC John
27-06-2011, 05:26 PM
I too notice the front tires wearing faster than the rear. This seems track dependent to me, because it doesn't always happen.
The first thing I replace on my kit were the ball cups. I really hated how they would pop off just from adjustment.
I replaced the servo horn and servo saver with aluminum parts. The kit plastic is not very strong.
My general rule of thumb is, if they make an aluminum aftermarket part, get it, because the plastic part will break at some point.

JosephShanks
28-06-2011, 03:38 AM
Snook, let me tell ya what many of us here in the "colonies" like to do to our rangos to make em bulletproof.:lol: We use aluminum front pivot blocks with metal inserts to match. Metal crunch spacers for the hubs. Aluminum servo saver, servo horn, and rear diff loop. And if you don't want your ball cups to pop off every time you adust them you can replace them as well. I'm using Team Associated TC5 "metric" ball studs and cups. I have had no problems with my since I broke a plastic diff loop just after buying it. My slipper was too tight. I should mention that I'm still using the plastic diff loop. I will eventually replace it with a Tresrey aluminum one when I get around to it.:thumbsup: Good luck.

Big G
28-06-2011, 07:42 AM
The Treshey red diff holder is slightly lower than the kit one. I had a boot on my centre shaft to keep the dirt out of the grease and after fitting the red one the boot was rubbing on the lipo. I fitted 2 washers and it sorted it out no problem.

could be related to the 23/25mm lipo height although it does have double holes on it. it appears more of the diff height rather than lipo height. oh well.