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View Full Version : The ultimate Durango (AKA V3?)


Dazzler
05-07-2011, 05:53 PM
So, what would the ultimate Durango be:-

What mods have people done to their cars?

What mods have people seen on cars at the track?

What have the team been testing that has been caught on camera?

Basically, add anything you would like to see as an improvement over the existing car. It will be interesting to see a customers wish list, compared to the release spec...

And if team Durango wish to drop in on this post and confirm the spec.. Feel free!

We've seen the double D joints, alloy diff housing supports, shell, big bores, but what else?

johnnygibbon
05-07-2011, 09:16 PM
they could put a sticker on every box

" this product is no way whatsoever asociated or endorsed by mr gay "

TonyM
05-07-2011, 09:41 PM
For me:-

Big Bore Shocks.
New Body.
Tresrey type servo saver.
MIP type drive shafts - you know the ones with the retaining rings rather than using grub screws.
Wider wing.
Larger headed screws in the diff casing - I'm constantly stripping them.
Battery clearance to 27mm in height - my Vampier 5400's have expanded a little, they are 26mm in height.

JohnM
06-07-2011, 06:33 AM
A stronger wing would be nice, other then that I'm happy.

Rebelrc
06-07-2011, 06:59 AM
Rear body mount further into the shell ! I've seen alot of good paint jobs get bined cause the shells rear has ripped off.
Larger rear wing with the adjustment of the 2005 prototype cause that was ace!
Ball diff option and one way!
The battery strap needs a couple of ridges adding on top of it to hold it more ridged so it doesn't keep rubbing the prop
And a little lump adding to the right hand side pod around the servo saver, just enough to get my servo wire away from the saver serrated nut...

These would be great
Many thanks team Durango for the last couple of years racing I have had, virtually no maintainence or breakages. I have never none reliability or durability like it. I've never waited longer than a day for parts.
And I love the little touches like giving 3 types of set up each track (same conditions) for your driving style , smooth,med,aggressive. Touch!:thumbsup: well done.
You've come from know where and showed the world of rc how it should be done

Big G
06-07-2011, 08:44 AM
A stronger wing would be nice, other then that I'm happy.

I've used a stronger rear wing and they still develop holes where the plastic bulkhead pierces it. I added a cut out of the previous wing under it to try and strengthen it a bit, but it's gone now :(

Cardnim
06-07-2011, 08:47 AM
Would the ultimate Durango be one thats on sale to get the money to buy an SX3? :lol:

Sorry Daz, couldnt help myself m8. ;)

jkclifford
06-07-2011, 09:17 AM
ball joints you can actually adjust. (Without poping off)

Hulk
06-07-2011, 09:25 AM
I've used a stronger rear wing and they still develop holes where the plastic bulkhead pierces it. I added a cut out of the previous wing under it to try and strengthen it a bit, but it's gone now :(

Best thing to do with your wing is put shock 'o' rings under, and on top of the the wing.

Ive used standard Durango wings for months on end in this way with no problems.

JohnM
06-07-2011, 12:47 PM
I've used a stronger rear wing and they still develop holes where the plastic bulkhead pierces it. I added a cut out of the previous wing under it to try and strengthen it a bit, but it's gone now :(

I'm not having that happen on mine, mine tend to start to fold up like a clam, ends up 2" narrower, and an inch higher the normal, makes it fly all funny:lol:

Maybe I'll give Craigs o ring idea a go, might help if it's not mounted too stiffly.

Bungleaio
06-07-2011, 01:12 PM
I run Shock O rings under my wing and they last a good few months for me.

Hulk
06-07-2011, 01:41 PM
Just make sure when you use the 'o' rings you dont screw the wing down too hard, then your wing should last a long time.

Alternatively, stop crashing! lol :p

JohnM
06-07-2011, 03:00 PM
Alternatively, stop crashing! lol :p

If your not crashing, your not trying hard enough:p

Culetto
06-07-2011, 08:42 PM
Best performing 4wd buggy .... ever! But what would make it better? I guess these all apply to both the buggy and the desc410

2mm longer rear center propshaft so if you bellyflop a big jump onto the chassis you dont spend the rest of the race in front wheel drive.

Aluminum bulkheads front and rear as an upgrade, or just stronger plastic, etc. The rears can crack and the fronts always seem to strip where the top plate screws in from the side.

4 holes on the center propshafts for the CVD's so when the holes wear you can double the life of them. I know, seems simple, but they only last so long before the slop starts bugging me, lol.

Stronger inner hinge pins, front and rear, the only saving grace of these is when you do bend one they are cheap to replace, would rather not keep replacing them though, lol.

t8rtot
06-07-2011, 08:53 PM
4 holes on the center propshafts for the CVD's so when the holes wear you can double the life of them. I know, seems simple, but they only last so long before the slop starts bugging me, lol.

outstanding idea:thumbsup:

Stronger inner hinge pins, front and rear, the only saving grace of these is when you do bend one they are cheap to replace, would rather not keep replacing them though, lol.

i think this has alot to do with how durable the arms are. its either strong arms or bent hinge pins..

:D:D:D:D

Dazzler
05-08-2011, 04:30 PM
We must be getting close to knowing what we can expect to see on the v3?

A new car has been announced (dex210), spec stated, photographs provided and release date advised, with races won.

This has all happened whilst the v3 has been taking pre orders at MB Models, Yet still nothing confirmed on the V3?

Does anybody know that can share the info?

How does it compare to the ideas above?

captainlip
05-08-2011, 05:14 PM
I'd love to say something here but have to keep stum

andys
05-08-2011, 05:55 PM
I'll second the stronger rear wing :)
Kit one at the rear is stupidly thin. Wings normally last me years, not just one meeting !

Maybe it's a ploy to keep us buying them....

mark christopher
05-08-2011, 06:13 PM
I'd love to say something here but have to keep stum

YAWN..............

andys
05-08-2011, 06:18 PM
Those captive cvd pins where the cvd / outdrive sits inside the bearing like on 8th cars would be nice.
I think it was like that on the 210 I saw ?

Dazzler
05-08-2011, 06:44 PM
Those captive cvd pins where the cvd / outdrive sits inside the bearing like on 8th cars would be nice.
I think it was like that on the 210 I saw ?

I also noticed them in the spec and pictures. That would be good, and possibly a case of uplifting the design to have commonality of spares with the 210 going forward. Like the 14mm hex, not essential, but a good improvement all the same.

Dazzler
05-08-2011, 06:53 PM
I'd love to say something here but have to keep stum

Maybe it comes pre-built by Phil? Ensuring all essential components are assembled to exacting standards, threads stripped, bearings collapsed, shims left in the bag and any old seals found in the spares box used etc, etc.. :woot:

It could be the CLCBDFS Edition... Please work out the acronym for yourselves :thumbsup:

Only pulling your leg Phil..

wheelspin
05-08-2011, 07:26 PM
I'd love to say something here but have to keep stum

You could tell us about those chinese bearings made in germany.:thumbsup:

Big G
05-08-2011, 07:47 PM
It could be he CLCBDFS Edition... Please work out the acronym for yourselves :thumbsup:

Only pulling your leg Phil..

I think I've worked that out... :wub

captainlip
05-08-2011, 08:01 PM
Maybe it comes pre-built by Phil? Ensuring all essential components are assembled to exacting standards, threads stripped, bearings collapsed, shims left in the bag and any old seals found in the spares box used etc, etc.. :woot:

It could be he CLCBDFS Edition... Please work out the acronym for yourselves :thumbsup:

Only pulling your leg Phil..

Actually daz that's very good :D

Rebelrc
06-08-2011, 06:29 AM
You need to change your location lippy!
Your confusing people.

dpackster1980
06-08-2011, 06:13 PM
Best performing 4wd buggy .... ever! But what would make it better? I guess these all apply to both the buggy and the desc410

2mm longer rear center propshaft so if you bellyflop a big jump onto the chassis you dont spend the rest of the race in front wheel drive.

Aluminum bulkheads front and rear as an upgrade, or just stronger plastic, etc. The rears can crack and the fronts always seem to strip where the top plate screws in from the side.

4 holes on the center propshafts for the CVD's so when the holes wear you can double the life of them. I know, seems simple, but they only last so long before the slop starts bugging me, lol.

Stronger inner hinge pins, front and rear, the only saving grace of these is when you do bend one they are cheap to replace, would rather not keep replacing them though, lol.

Buy Tresery ones they come with 4 holes and are cheaper than the Durango ones. :thumbsup:

Marc0
08-08-2011, 10:51 AM
Buy Tresery ones they come with 4 holes and are cheaper than the Durango ones. :thumbsup:

The aluminium ones ? I have made 4 runs of 15 minutes, and the 4 holes are dead, on a very high traction track :thumbdown:

Dazzler
08-08-2011, 11:02 AM
I agree, Tresrey alloy shafts are not good at all :thumbdown:. I had a brand new set on a second hand car and thought I'd run them, but they were wearing from race 1. Save your money, kit is best.:thumbsup: The four hole idea is valid though.

MHeadling
08-08-2011, 11:06 AM
Yes the tresrey ali centre shafts are crap, I only used them on a 13.5 indoors and they wore very quickly, kits 2mm is best!

Marc0
08-08-2011, 11:08 AM
I'm "happy" to see that I'm not the only one having this issue. I thought my slipper settings was too hard...