View Full Version : Tekin R1 finally available!
Saw this a few days ago:
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=TEKTT1151
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/pics/t_tektt1151.jpg
Does anyone know if it works well? Any "child diseases"?
Are there available other B/L speedos this small sized?
spenner
21-01-2008, 10:37 AM
They have been available in the UK through www.theraceplace.co.uk (http://www.theraceplace.co.uk) since december!!!!
Should also be mentioned that the R1 Pro has TQ'd nearly every meeting it has attended in UK ......
Stotfold Winter Series 20/01/08 3 Tekin R1 Pro's in the A Final 2wd!!!!
Speedo is great and with on going software updates available for download on the internet you should never have a problem...
dan_kitty
21-01-2008, 12:42 PM
i would like one of these.
KevLee
21-01-2008, 12:51 PM
I have been running mine since the start of december and i have been very impressed. Loads of onboard adjustments which are really easy to understand. It also has a realtime temperature gauge (although mine has barely got warm so far).
It is small and it doesn't even need a fan..... i think it has more FETs than any other speedo on the market at the moment
There are always going to be developments in any product like this. The great thing about Tekin is that they will always have the lastest software available for download from their website with the Hotwire system.
There were 4 running at Stotfold winter series yesterday and all were very impressed !
Dan, come see me up COBRA and I show you one!
Kev, any ideas when the Hotwire system will be available for purchase?
spenner
21-01-2008, 08:26 PM
Andrew,
Speak to John in the shop as he is putting in another order to tekin and will be ordering some hotwires...
Will do, thanks Spenner :)
I think a few weeks at least, I am still awaiting mine as we speak, and software (and now I got to go buy a laptop too)
KevLee
21-01-2008, 09:16 PM
I spoke to Tekin today and i think they have some ready, so with some luck we will have them soon!!
more than likely I will have the hotwire before I can find a cheap laptop lol
KevLee
21-01-2008, 09:25 PM
why do you need a laptop?
MattW
21-01-2008, 09:27 PM
It is defiantly nice and small, but i've never been 100% convinced about sensorless Brushless ESC's, and i know i'm not the only one.........:rolleyes::o
KevLee
21-01-2008, 09:28 PM
have you used the Tekin Matt?
why do you need a laptop?
so I can show off the software at the track lol.....
Which motors does the R1 use? Tekin`s own none-sensored, or any normal sensored brushless motors? ie: motors with the hall sensor lead.
Sly.
KevLee
21-01-2008, 11:26 PM
I've been using the Peak 6.5 in my 2wd and also ran an lrp with a sintered rotor without any issues (i've tested on very high and very low grip tracks). I'd advise running sintered as it gives more feedback for the controller to track the rotor.
If you read the instructions of the Peak motor, its says "suitable for sensored and sensorless speed controllers".
Martin-Barbour
22-01-2008, 08:06 AM
I ran it with a Novak 5.5R (sintered) all day Sunday without a problem...
I was running an Orion Vortex 7.5 without any problems.
The Tekin makes the Hall sensor circuitry redundant. This can be beneficial in the wet as I understand it is this component that fails when it comes into contact with too much water.
I don't know (or understand) the details, but believe the R1 systems determine where the rotor is via comparing the back EMF of each phase.
josh_smaxx
22-01-2008, 10:41 PM
Dont believe everything you read on the peak/orion instructions :rolleyes: 'all leading sensored and sensorless speed controllers'...... as far as im aware the mamba max is one of THE leading sensorless speedos and mine didnt work with that, and i tired EVERYTHING.
This thread isn't discussing the Mamba Max.
The Peak/Orion motors will work flawlessly with the Tekin as both Kevin and I have proven.
josh_smaxx
22-01-2008, 10:46 PM
fair do's then, just a point i was making about the motors :rolleyes:
I understand, it just wasn't relevant to the thread and consequently could be misleading. :rolleyes:
Billy
13-02-2008, 07:21 PM
Hello guys! I read in these posts that the speedo works fine without any bad issues, but in the Tekin forum you can read few bad stories. Anyway I got the speedo last week to race in 2008 4WD off road championship in Greece. Do you have any special suggestions for the motor type? I tested it with a stock 17x2 and was quite fascinated on the feeling. Reminded me of my old 411G2. Temperature got to 2nd led after 2 x 4200 batts played one after the other. I'm thinking to get a Vortex 5.5 or a Nosram 5.5 as I used last year (same motor for 2 championships on road and off road without any issues). What would you suggest?
spenner
14-02-2008, 10:35 AM
As long as you use sintered motors you should be fine....
Billy
14-02-2008, 12:00 PM
As long as you use sintered motors you should be fine....
Thanks for your reply! Sintered eh? I also believe it should be fine for low motors i.e. 5.5. I'll go for the Vortex, little bit faster than Nosram and better looking!
spenner
14-02-2008, 01:24 PM
Kevin Lee is the top man for off road using the Tekin's and he has been using 6.5 in 2wd and 4.5/5.5 in 4wd.
The main thing is too make sure they are sintered, there hasn't been any problems when running these.
definately sintered rotors, the harder you push this esc the better it works!
Billy
14-02-2008, 03:21 PM
definately sintered rotors, the harder you push this esc the better it works!
XAXA! That is exactly what I wanted to hear! I have got some really nice feedback from the speedo on my first test, but got a little bit anxious on what motor to select after reading a couple of posts. Let's hope that it will help me win this years championship also without any issues!
HB D4
Tekin R1 Pro
Vortex 5.5
Orion SHO
KO Low profile servo
Futaba 4PK?
Sounds like a winning combination! Let's see... next weekend is the first race of the championship in Greece. I'll keep you posted.
top man, you are more than willing to ask me, spenner or Kev Lee any questions, and if we can help, we more than will.
Make sure you order up the hotwire, the latest firmware is suppose to be sweeeeet, my hotwire is in transit as we speak, the software looks fab too!
Billy
14-02-2008, 09:07 PM
Thanks again! I wish I could grab a plane and come race with you guys in England! I started rcing with electric off road in 1995 but had a big off until 2005. Now that this class is growing like crazy I think we will have a great time! Even retired from the touring class...
KevLee
14-02-2008, 11:37 PM
Thanks again! I wish I could grab a plane and come race with you guys in England! I started rcing with electric off road in 1995 but had a big off until 2005. Now that this class is growing like crazy I think we will have a great time! Even retired from the touring class...
Hi Billy, if you need any advice let us know. I have a profile that i could give you as starting point if you want?
DCM, my hotwire is on the way too! :thumbsup:
I could do with one Key, 5 turn (redline 537) 4wd indoors.
BREEZER
15-02-2008, 09:15 AM
I have A "ORION" 6-5 and whant to know if it is sintered also am thinking of a LRP vector 5-5 any advice from you top dolar guys. Thanks will test to morrow.
AmiSMB
15-02-2008, 09:31 AM
The Orion/Peak motors are sintered and are legal for national racing I use them and they are fantastic. The LRP/Nosram motors are not sintered unless you buy the 4.5 turn or lower or replace the rotor which then makes the motor illegal for national racing. I initially started out running LRP motors but since I made the switch I have never looked back!
BREEZER
15-02-2008, 09:52 AM
hi also what about the novak light seris will they work o/k. thanks
Martin.
AmiSMB
15-02-2008, 10:29 AM
They should work as they use sintered rotors.
BREEZER
15-02-2008, 10:34 AM
The reason I asked is I have some credit ina shop and they stock them as said have orion 6-5 will get novak 5-5 thanks very much. martin
spenner
15-02-2008, 10:37 AM
The Orion/Peak motors are sintered and are legal for national racing I use them and they are fantastic. The LRP/Nosram motors are not sintered unless you buy the 4.5 turn or lower or replace the rotor which then makes the motor illegal for national racing. I initially started out running LRP motors but since I made the switch I have never looked back!
You can actually change the rotors and they will be legal.... it is on the motor part for brca rules this year.
AmiSMB
15-02-2008, 11:57 AM
You can actually change the rotors and they will be legal.... it is on the motor part for brca rules this year.
Did not know they had changed that rule. Ooops :blush:
spenner
15-02-2008, 12:14 PM
Im 95% sure it has changed as someone sent it to me but i can't find to make 100% sure!!!!
KevLee
15-02-2008, 12:26 PM
This is the rule you are looking for !
9.7 The Rotor: Shaft diameter must be 3.175mm where the pinion gear locates. Only one piece, two pole Neodymium or Ferrite magnetic rotors are permitted (bonded or sintered). Magnet minimum length 23.0 mm, maximum 27.0 mm. Magnet minimum diameter 12.0mm, maximum 15.5mm. The original Rotor can be changed providing the replacement: complies with the above specifications, has been approved, is supplied by the motor manufacturer and is available retail.
KevLee
15-02-2008, 12:28 PM
And this is the reason taken from the BRCA website...
During the last year, there has been much development of the magnetic rotor in these motors. Most manufacturers have changed to using sintered magnet rotors and there are now different size rotors available to be used as a tuning aid. The ruling on the magnetic rotor has been amended to allow the original rotor to be swapped, providing the variants comply with the dimensions stated, have been approved and are available from the manufacturer of the motor. This also means that a motor, which is normally supplied with a bonded rotor, can now be fitted with a sintered version.
DCM, my hotwire is on the way too! :thumbsup:
Can you update my firmware once you have it please? :)
I'm assuming your Hotwire is being sent ahead of any for us non-sponsored folk?
KevLee
15-02-2008, 12:54 PM
no problem, i should have it for next week
KevLee
15-02-2008, 07:35 PM
I could do with one Kev, 5 turn (redline 537) 4wd indoors.
This would be a good profile to start with in 2wd and 4wd. You may need some drag brake with the redline as they brake more like a bonded motor, but start with this and go from there.
DB = 0
BS = 13
LM = 13
NW = 3
TP = 4
MT = 1
VC = 1 (default)
HarlowS
16-02-2008, 07:02 PM
Hot wire is available but lets just hope that the software gets released soon, It looks fantastic in my pit box but no good without software with it :o(
DaveG28
16-02-2008, 08:41 PM
Hi Guys,
Without getting the extra's (hotwire?) how useful is this speedo?
Also, what sintered 5.5 motors are out there!?
DaveG28
16-02-2008, 08:43 PM
Oh, and the better version is the "Pro" version yes?
DaveG28
16-02-2008, 08:49 PM
Grrr, sorry for so many posts, sorry for being thick if I am but do sensored motors work with sensorless esc's, eg Orion or LRP?
Dave
spenner
16-02-2008, 08:55 PM
The hotwire just allows you to update any software issues etc... also allows you to transfer settings from fellow Tekin users.
The speedo (R1 PRO) has so far tq'd most winter meetings in the hands of Kev Lee... only Big E has beat him once or twice.
There was also 3 R1 Pro's in the 2wd a main at the last Stotfold winter series..
The hotwire just makes the speedo more attractive as if you have any issues you will be able to download the fix!!!
There will be around 10 R1 Pro's running at tomorrow's Stotfold winter series, this is how impressed people have been.
also, the hotwire will allow you to change other things you can't program throught the very easy to use led's and buttons on the esc....
spenner
16-02-2008, 08:58 PM
You can use any Sensored or sensorless... just make sure they are sintered!!! Orion, Peak, Speed Passion are Sintered as standard.
woOdy
18-02-2008, 07:43 PM
Tried out the new R1 and redline motors yesterday. I have been sent a 537 motor which for some reason I thought it was like a 5.5 or 6.5. I started with a 19 pinion on a B4 and it was REALLY slow. I then went up to a 24 and it was a little quicker but still slow. I sent Scooter a quick mail last night and he has slapped my hand and the motor is 40% less power than a 6.5, which would be somewhere like a stock motor. I should of been on like a 30 pinion. I feel like a right plonker for not reading propperly.:confused:
I used a 537 yesterday, and was on a 25 tooth on an 18th track, I think a 4turn would of been better
DaveG28
20-02-2008, 12:52 AM
WOuld I be likely to suffer overheating problems if I tried to run the R1 Pro with an LRP 4.5 motor? Or duration problems for that matter (using it in a 4wd with 2008 batteries)?
Dave
Does it work well with 4 cells (for 1:12)?
WOuld I be likely to suffer overheating problems if I tried to run the R1 Pro with an LRP 4.5 motor? Or duration problems for that matter (using it in a 4wd with 2008 batteries)?
Dave
well, like any esc, it depends on gearing and car condition, but it should be fine.
Not sure about 12th, go ask at the company forum (www.teamtekin.com)
Billy
23-02-2008, 03:43 PM
One more question! Does anyone have any idea how to connect the speedo to the Nosram brushless motor? I mean the speedo has + -and white, whereas the motor has blue orange and yellow!
One more question! Does anyone have any idea how to connect the speedo to the Nosram brushless motor? I mean the speedo has + -and white, whereas the motor has blue orange and yellow!
I'm not sure what you mean? It has 5 terminals like all brushless ESCs I'm aware of: battery +ve and -ve and then each motor phase (A, B and C).
Does that help?
KevLee
23-02-2008, 04:57 PM
One more question! Does anyone have any idea how to connect the speedo to the Nosram brushless motor? I mean the speedo has + -and white, whereas the motor has blue orange and yellow!
Billy, i think this is what you want....
B (esc) = C orange
W (esc) = B yellow
R (esc) = A blue
B+ = battery +
B- = battery -
Billy
23-02-2008, 06:28 PM
Yes that is it! I really appreciate your help KevLee!
Billy
26-02-2008, 09:20 PM
Okay, I finally raced the speedo last weekend! Eh, second position overall! Not bad at all! As I already felt like by using a stock motor, the speedo has a great feeling, but...
firstly, it sounds like there is rust in it (needs lubricant xaxa) which doesn't really bother me,
secondly if you stop and go sometimes it moves 1 - 2cm backwards and then moves forward #$#??,
thirdly launching from stop has nothing to do with what it felt like with the Nosram speedo I previously had and I do not understand why! It feels like it has no power at all and gradually it becomes powerful, whilst the Nosram was crazy from the very beginning! Throtle program 3 and Nosram 5.5 (sintered). Any idea of what can I do to make it more efficient?
I didn't have time to analyze each problem further, because I was trying to do well in the race, so since the speedo worked okay, I was more concentrated on the cars setup.
I will do some further testing comparing it with a Nosram 2007 but if you have any advice please help!
Oh, and domething else. When the battery is close to below average voltage after 7 minutes approximately I got some serious cogging issues and it had nothing to do with temperature!
super__dan
26-02-2008, 09:33 PM
Sensorless
KevLee
26-02-2008, 09:38 PM
Okay, I finally raced the speedo last weekend! Eh, second position overall! Not bad at all! As I already felt like by using a stock motor, the speedo has a great feeling, but...
firstly, it sounds like there is rust in it (needs lubricant xaxa) which doesn't really bother me,
secondly if you stop and go sometimes it moves 1 - 2cm backwards and then moves forward #$#??,
thirdly launching from stop has nothing to do with what it felt like with the Nosram speedo I previously had and I do not understand why! It feels like it has no power at all and gradually it becomes powerful, whilst the Nosram was crazy from the very beginning! Throtle program 3 and Nosram 5.5 (sintered). Any idea of what can I do to make it more efficient?
I didn't have time to analyze each problem further, because I was trying to do well in the race, so since the speedo worked okay, I was more concentrated on the cars setup.
I will do some further testing comparing it with a Nosram 2007 but if you have any advice please help!
Oh, and domething else. When the battery is close to below average voltage after 7 minutes approximately I got some serious cogging issues and it had nothing to do with temperature!
Billy, the new software solves all of those issues. It revs higher, the delay has gone and it doesn't have that issue towards the end of the pack. It doesn't stutter backwards anymore either (i know Ellis will be happy now:woot:)
I ran the new software this weeknd just gone and the my car was definately not strugling for punch or top end.
It really is worth getting the hotwire, as not only does it allow you to keep your speedo up to date, there are some additional settings to play with aswell.
KevLee
26-02-2008, 09:41 PM
Sensorless
your motor's in the wrong place but i don't go on about it :o:woot:
DaveG28
26-02-2008, 10:29 PM
Thinking of getting this esc to run in my 4wd, where can I get a hotwire from if I do?
KevLee
26-02-2008, 10:33 PM
Thinking of getting this esc to run in my 4wd, where can I get a hotwire from if I do?
The raceplace are stocking the range of Tekin stuff 01462 684859. I think they may have a shipment on the way
DaveG28
26-02-2008, 10:40 PM
Any idea on price?
BREEZER
27-02-2008, 09:26 AM
Hi Kev, I got my R1 pro 2wks ago will it have the latest software and how can I check also when will the hotwire be available and any idea of cost as at presant I am only one with one up here in Aberdeen. Thanks in advance Kev.
Martin.
KevLee
27-02-2008, 08:47 PM
Hi Kev, I got my R1 pro 2wks ago will it have the latest software and how can I check also when will the hotwire be available and any idea of cost as at presant I am only one with one up here in Aberdeen. Thanks in advance Kev.
Martin.
Hi Breezer, Its difficult to say what software you have as there is no saying when it left the factory (as far as i know anyway). The only way i know of working out what software you have is to plug it into a hotwire. It automatically tells you if updates are available and tells you what you currently have.
The raceplace should have some in soon, so its worth giving them a call. I'm not sure what they cost though i'm afraid.
DaveG28
28-02-2008, 09:59 PM
is the hotwire part number TT1450??
If I get this and the R1 Pro is there anything else I need to buy?
just another R1 to stick in your other car!
After wainting for this product for such a long time, I was very optimistic about it...
I tried it for the first time in 1:12 this weekend. Together with a Orion 4,5 motor. Didn't work at all!!!
:thumbdown:
Even with max. punch there was an extreme delay before the speedo delivered full power. Also there was some cogging from standstill. So it was simply undrivable. A fellow racer had exactly the same experience. Plus cogging from standstill and on corner exit.
Some questions spring to mind:
Is there a know 4-cell issue with it?
Is there a software update to fix this problem?
Will it work better with Redline motors?
Is it ok with most motors when using 6 cells? How about 5 cells?
KevLee
09-03-2008, 10:15 PM
After wainting for this product for such a long time, I was very optimistic about it...
I tried it for the first time in 1:12 this weekend. Together with a Orion 4,5 motor. Didn't work at all!!!
:thumbdown:
Even with max. punch there was an extreme delay before the speedo delivered full power. Also there was some cogging from standstill. So it was simply undrivable. A fellow racer had exactly the same experience. Plus cogging from standstill and on corner exit.
Some questions pop to mind:
Is there a know 4-cell issue with it?
Is there a software update to fix this problem?
Will it work better with Redline motors?
Is it ok with most motors when using 6 cells? How about 5 cells?
I haven't used mine with 4 cell but in 6 cell offroad i don't have those problems. The delay has been fixed with the latest release of software and it drives the motor much better with stronger starts and more rpms. I was suprised how much of an improvement the new software was.
The redline motors are what it has been designed with, but i use Nosram motors and as long as you use sintered rotors its fine. I do believe it struggles with stock winds from what i've read but i don't have any experience with those..
I'd definately advise getting it hooked up to a Hotwire and make sure you have the latest software.
I do beleive that the newest firmware does factor some of the problems you are having, which is to do with voltage threshold on less than 6 cells.
If you have a team driver local, you may want to nag them to hook your R1 to the Hotwire and check it out?
I am South Wales
Billy
13-03-2008, 09:29 PM
Guys if you are still interested in the Hotwire...
http://eshop.rcring.com/index.asp?page=viewCategory&mystart=0&cat=7
Got it last week, updated and will check during this weekend hopefully.
My speedo was 3 versions older! :thumbsup:
spenner
13-03-2008, 09:39 PM
Or just go to www.theraceplace.co.uk (http://www.theraceplace.co.uk) and they will be able to sort you out... depending where you are of course.
Billy
19-05-2008, 11:18 AM
Hello! I've had a serious accident this weekend...
I have used pretty successfully the R1 Pro with 5.5 Nosram and 6cells for 4WD Off Road buggy, even with older S/W versions and it worked fine although the Nosram and Lrp guys are a little bit faster in top speed, but this weekend I tried the speed control on my Xray t1fk05 in combination with an Orion 3.5 and again 6cells. S/W version all new 180! Gear ratio 7.50 for large open track. 1st battery and cut off at 4 mins! No response the car just stopped!
Checking esc temp, around 88 degrees celsious! The capacitor from the extreme heat melted the plastic case of the speedo and now I've got a wavy looking speedo! Thankfully I didn't get any smoke and I really hope the speedo that the speedo will work when I put it back on the buggy.
2nd battery and I have replaced the Tekin capacitor with one from a Nosram speedo which is much bigger and also decreased the brakes at 50% on the speedo and the Transmitter, a little better, but the same shut down at around 4 mins and high temperatures.
Any idea what is wrong with the setup? Timing set at requested from the S/w around 16 if I remember correctly. Unfortunately I did not use a cooling fan, because it was not available at the moment!
Many thanks in advance!
in low wind apps, they recomend you run the esc with two of the caps installed, and the solder posts facing cooling air, also, you could add a small fan to blow over the solder posts too if need be.
Have you got the Hotwire tool?
Billy
19-05-2008, 01:34 PM
Thanks for the reply DCM. Yes I have the Hotwire and the speedo is updated to 180 version and I've tried everything, believe me! As for the capacitor, the Nosram one is almost three times bigger than the Tekin one, so no issue with that. As for the cooling fan, I purchased the speedo because of sensorless design, I thought that there would be no temp issues so there would be no need for a fan, but I was mistaken.
Anyway I'm very frustrated at the moment and I'm in contact with Tekin. A speed control is not a cheap machine to destroy! Let's see what they will say, I have the feeling that they are very good with after sales service. But have you seen anyone using it in their touring cars, because I haven't and there should be a good reason for that!
I'll keep you informed if I have good news, or else, forget about it and never look back. Sorry, but the last thing I wanted when I purchased the speedo was a headache!
Richard Lowe
19-05-2008, 02:44 PM
It might not have a heatsink or fan but it still has the same amount of heat to get rid of as other brushless ESC's...
Thanks for the reply DCM. Yes I have the Hotwire and the speedo is updated to 180 version and I've tried everything, believe me! As for the capacitor, the Nosram one is almost three times bigger than the Tekin one, so no issue with that. As for the cooling fan, I purchased the speedo because of sensorless design, I thought that there would be no temp issues so there would be no need for a fan, but I was mistaken.
Anyway I'm very frustrated at the moment and I'm in contact with Tekin. A speed control is not a cheap machine to destroy! Let's see what they will say, I have the feeling that they are very good with after sales service. But have you seen anyone using it in their touring cars, because I haven't and there should be a good reason for that!
I'll keep you informed if I have good news, or else, forget about it and never look back. Sorry, but the last thing I wanted when I purchased the speedo was a headache!
Fabien Simoni has been using one, Russ Williams is helping with developement too. Also, something Fabien found, is that some of the brushless motors have a lot of end float on the rotor and that causes issue's of heat, but if it was hot, and your running 3.5t (was it 5 or 6 cell) you still MAY need to run the fan.
vinny20
19-05-2008, 03:50 PM
whats so good about the tekin r1 iv never had anything in tekin is it better than lrp
it is smaller, can be upgraded with firmare, easily adjustable in the car (full set of LED's) and the top end performance is really getting there with each firmware update (which are free if you got the hotwire)
Billy
19-05-2008, 08:11 PM
it still has the same amount of heat to get rid of as other brushless ESC's...
That is not how they advertised the product... without a heatsink! And also why there is nowhere any specific information of which applications and which motors should be used together with a fan in order to prevent damage, this would help Tekin receive less products for servicing and the users to be happy with their products!
Speedo DCM was used with 6 cells
you need to keep an eye on the forum on www.teamtekin.com as there is some gems of information on there, and don't be afraid of asking.
It doesn't need a heatsink, the solder posts ARE the heatsink, and if you are getting thermal problems, then you NEED to cool it, simple as that, but in off-road, they find that mostly you don't. when you are running, what is the temp indicator showing on the LED's?
Billy
19-05-2008, 10:12 PM
...when you are running, what is the temp indicator showing on the LED's?
LEDs ALL ON and measured with thermal gun around 88 degrees of celsious on top of the plastic case, but the capacitor was way hotter!
Was just checking on Team Tekin, it looks like some good feedback hopefully as I thought. Let's see...
DaveG28
19-05-2008, 10:49 PM
it is smaller, can be upgraded with firmare, easily adjustable in the car (full set of LED's) and the top end performance is really getting there with each firmware update (which are free if you got the hotwire)
Vinny, LRP is pretty easy to adjust too (led system etc) but DCM has a point about the size, the Tekin seems pretty small so if your limited on space in the car (an Aero for example :o) it can certainly make life easier!
Dave
Chequered Flag Racing
20-05-2008, 11:51 AM
it is smaller,
can be seen in this ESC footprint overlay I've just done using maufacturers quoted size
looks like I'll be getting one for 12th pan car
LEDs ALL ON and measured with thermal gun around 88 degrees of celsious on top of the plastic case, but the capacitor was way hotter!
Was just checking on Team Tekin, it looks like some good feedback hopefully as I thought. Let's see...
you dont take the reading from the top, as that is just the control board and BEC circuitry, all the FET's are on the lower board (R1) and lower 2 boards (R1 Pro). take the temp reading on the solder posts. Also, they have found if you are getting thermalling, running 6 cell and low turn brushless, two caps are needed and possibly a fan, also, have cool air passing over the solder posts, so they effectively remove the heat.
Just to let you guys know, I just took delivery of the RS speedo, exactly the same size as the R1 and the LiPo cells, and lovely they are too!!!
KevLee
20-05-2008, 05:35 PM
you dont take the reading from the top, as that is just the control board and BEC circuitry, all the FET's are on the lower board (R1) and lower 2 boards (R1 Pro). take the temp reading on the solder posts. Also, they have found if you are getting thermalling, running 6 cell and low turn brushless, two caps are needed and possibly a fan, also, have cool air passing over the solder posts, so they effectively remove the heat.
Just to let you guys know, I just took delivery of the RS speedo, exactly the same size as the R1 and the LiPo cells, and lovely they are too!!!
I ran the RS last Sunday at the Mid South Regional in Swindon..... worked perfectly without any issue. Very impressed, you won't be dissapointed!
Welshy40
20-05-2008, 05:44 PM
Dont believe everything you read on the peak/orion instructions :rolleyes: 'all leading sensored and sensorless speed controllers'...... as far as im aware the mamba max is one of THE leading sensorless speedos and mine didnt work with that, and i tired EVERYTHING.
Well both my Mambas worked fine with the Peaks brushless without a problem. However I would recommend sticking to Mamba for these escs as they work a lot better with those motors.
Personally Tekin would be the best buy. the development they do is second to none and the president appears to have a plan which he has set in motion. All I can say is watch this space as they can only get a lot better.
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