Need some advise

[Sanotter]

not sure which forum to put it in,but i was wondering a rough speed average on a tamiya durga with 6.5t brushless and 11.1v 90c 4600mah lipo? if that would blow up then a 2c 7.4v 6400mah instead, and stock everything (ratio's and spur and gear etc..)

seeing as the 11.1volt would destroy my car, i was wondering on a battery that is affordbleish yet could run the car for around 40 mins? thanks.

[Col]

Depends on alot of details you'v not included - pinion and spur size, internal gea ratio etc.

Best guess is 0mph as 3 cell lipo will probably blow it to bits.

[Sanotter]

Depends on alot of details you'v not included - pinion and spur size, internal gea ratio etc.

Best guess is 0mph as 3 cell lipo will probably blow it to bits.

hmm, how so? is their any way to avoid? id better get the 7.4v 6400mah one then :P

[budfish]

not sure which forum to put it in,but i was wondering a rough speed average on a tamiya durga with 6.5t brushless and 11.1v 90c 4600mah lipo?

That plastic pig will just burn burn burn!!!

[Col]

Put simply most 10th scale are not designed (both in size and strength) to take 11.1v - there is no need. A decent lipo, speedo and motor and you can be far too fast on most tracks without even trying.
I think some (maybe most) SC trucks can take 3cell, but don't hold me to that.

[Sanotter]

That plastic pig will just burn burn burn!!!

and please tell me why why why xD
ohhh, didnt know 11.1v were made for 1/8+ hehe... anyone make reccomendations on better battery's to get after my turnigy, needs to be high capacity and high quality. :)

also wondering what battery would give me a good 40 mins + of racing/mucking around on jumps?

[arransmith27]

7.4 in a durga with a 6.5 is ok.

Budfish and Col are right, anything more than 7.4 is a stupid idea.

Are you racing or bashing? have to ask as you seem to have some pretty wild ideas

that is all....

[Col]

also wondering what battery would give me a good 40 mins + of racing/mucking around on jumps?

You might be able to get a battery to last that long. but nothing else on the car will.
There were cars running for just over 20min at last years York 24h race, but they were with 8.5 motors on a steady track.

[Timee80]

The problem you will come across will be the total destruction of the rear standard diff. It is a weak point even for an 8.5t on 2s so will sh!t itself as soon as it sees your finger go near the power switch when connected to a 3s lipo. If you want daft speeds and to hand out some abuse, pick another buggy.

[Sanotter]

You might be able to get a battery to last that long. but nothing else on the car will.
There were cars running for just over 20min at last years York 24h race, but they were with 8.5 motors on a steady track.

hmm,sounds good :D also, i will be racing and bashing,might sound strange but i have a whole load of jumps like 20 metres from my house so i wont be able to resist :P

[budfish]

hmm,sounds good :D also, i will be racing and bashing,might sound strange but i have a whole load of jumps like 20 metres from my house so i wont be able to resist :P

Orion carbon pro batteries are good 90c discharge rate I think they are 5500mah

Most of us set up our cars to run for around 8 mins max anything more and you'll melt the motor most 1/10 races are 5mins unless your doing some endurance race then you would gear your car down to keep the temps low

[Sanotter]

Orion carbon pro batteries are good 90c discharge rate I think they are 5500mah

Most of us set up our cars to run for around 8 mins max anything more and you'll melt the motor most 1/10 races are 5mins unless your doing some endurance race then you would gear your car down to keep the temps low
ahh that sounds good, what parts should i get? whats most vulnerable?

[budfish]

If you want a fast buggy get a 5.5t motor and a decent speedo I'd get a lrp sxx brand new at Je spares £129 it comes with a 2 year warranty from the factory that way your covered if it goes wrong and the most important thing is to READ the instructions before fitting it if there's anything you don't understand jump on here and ask someone before you do anything

But my advice is don't run before you can walk get a 10.5t motor and learn to drive and increase the speed as your skill progresses

Budd

[Sanotter]

ok, i can only afford a max 70 pound esc so whats better this: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/mtroniks-g2-pro-competition-brushless-esc/rc-car-products/33593

or this:
http://www.modelsport.co.uk/castle-sv2-sidewinder-esc/rc-car-products/40107

[Rich D]

For that budget I'd buy a used one off here.

[Sanotter]

ok, what brands are best?

[Col]

Value for money Hobbywing is by far the best out there, but you might be able to get a decent LRP, Nosram, Novak, or speedpassion for your money.

[F1END]

I have a Durga and use it mostly for bashing with a bit of racing when I have time.

I have a 7.5T motor in, and it's plenty fast enough for fun.

Problem is, an out-of-the-box Durga will fall to bits as soon as you hit something (and you will) at the speeds you will get with an 8.5-6.5t brushless system. Trust me, I have done it more than once. It is possible to make a Durga pretty much bullet-proof, but it's gonna cost a lot in upgrades.

Thing is, this is your second thread basically asking the same questions, and I pointed you to a thread in the Tamiya forum to help you work out what bits you need. (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54231&highlight=db01) You then came back and asked pretty much the same question again in that thread, and then started this thread. :confused:

If you want specific advice about the DB01 and brushless, do a search in the Tamiya forum, the subject has come up more than once. Most users on here are pure racers, and as such won't know much about the Durga, which is not really a racing buggy. The best forum to ask for advice is the Tamiya one... HERE (http://www.oople.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=22)