Durga DB01 Help

[Sanotter]

hey guys, im going to run a 6.5-8.5t durga to race an bash, i will race when i have time and so want it to be quick yet strong.

what hopups to get?

at the moment these are what im thinking:

slipper
atomiccarbon shock towers
trf shocks
alu suspention blocks
hex screws
dont know what else?

thanks

[DCM]

TRF501 diff outdrives!!

[Sanotter]

TRF501 diff outdrives!!

ima newbie, please link or part number please? :D

[msxmre]

Add in some titanium turnbuckles and some alloy wheel hexes. Make sure you speak to someone who's running this car for the correct gear ratios. If i think of anything else i'll post buddy.
Scotty...

[DCM]

kit turnbuckles will do, mine are still straight after 2 1/2 years.... and alloy hexes are not needed, Losi/B44 wheels will also fit on the kit axles.

51286 for diff outdrives.

[Sanotter]

kit turnbuckles will do, mine are still straight after 2 1/2 years.... and alloy hexes are not needed, Losi/B44 wheels will also fit on the kit axles.

51286 for diff outdrives.

why are they so important? wouldnt getting cvd's be as expensive but better?

[DCM]

Running a 6.5 or 8.5, your going to make a mess of the kit outdrives. CVD's are also needed fot running mod!

[Sanotter]

Running a 6.5 or 8.5, your going to make a mess of the kit outdrives. CVD's are also needed fot running mod!

fot running mod? :/

[jimmy]

The only things I had were:

TRF dampers
Slipper
One way front diff (personal preference)
501X metal rear diff halves
Hex Screw set (Tonys scewz)

I never had the alloy suspension hangers - if you shim the arms and use metal balls in the holders then there's little chance of them popping out.

The metal rear diff is essential - good idea to get one for the front if you're using a diff up front but it's the rear that gets the most abuse.

There's a lot of info on here already about what to upgrade and of course people have differing opinions. The thing I liked about the DB01 was its price and spending too much on it wouldn't make it fun for me so I stuck with a mostly plastic car and simple dogbone driveshafts all round and it was brilliant.

[Sanotter]

The only things I had were:

TRF dampers
Slipper
One way front diff (personal preference)
501X metal rear diff halves
Hex Screw set (Tonys scewz)

I never had the alloy suspension hangers - if you shim the arms and use metal balls in the holders then there's little chance of them popping out.

The metal rear diff is essential - good idea to get one for the front if you're using a diff up front but it's the rear that gets the most abuse.

There's a lot of info on here already about what to upgrade and of course people have differing opinions. The thing I liked about the DB01 was its price and spending too much on it wouldn't make it fun for me so I stuck with a mostly plastic car and simple dogbone driveshafts all round and it was brilliant.

hehe, iv broken my suspension hangers twice :3 must just be my rubbish driving eh? :P

by metalrear diff you mean this? http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=51286

[jimmy]

hehe, iv broken my suspension hangers twice :3 must just be my rubbish driving eh? :P

by metalrear diff you mean this? http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=51286

How did they break? if you use the plastic balls they fail quite quickly and the hinge pin can then damage the hanger.
I always ran plastic - but if I had the money I'd have liked a couple of alloy hangers on there.

Yes that's the diff joint you need - don't be tempted by any 3rd party nonsense, get the real Tamiya diff halves.

[Sanotter]

How did they break? if you use the plastic balls they fail quite quickly and the hinge pin can then damage the hanger.
I always ran plastic - but if I had the money I'd have liked a couple of alloy hangers on there.

Yes that's the diff joint you need - don't be tempted by any 3rd party nonsense, get the real Tamiya diff halves.

ok that sounds awesome thanks man :D did you make the durga review?

[F1END]

...don't be tempted by any 3rd party nonsense, get the real Tamiya diff halves.

I couldn't find a proper Tamiya one when I needed it, so I got the 3-racing one and it's been fine. Some ceramic diff balls will help too.

I'd definitely recommend the alu suspension mounts, and a set of metal suspension balls (TA50994). Don't think I've had an arm pop out since putting those on.

As far as gear ratio goes, you'll probably want around a 19-21 tooth pinion depending on what motor you get.

You'll also find a ta05 carbon battery strap (TA53884) will help if you want to put a beefy lipo in. Either that or go mad with a dremel on the chassis :woot:.

[Sanotter]

I couldn't find a proper Tamiya one when I needed it, so I got the 3-racing one and it's been fine. Some ceramic diff balls will help too.

I'd definitely recommend the alu suspension mounts, and a set of metal suspension balls (TA50994). Don't think I've had an arm pop out since putting those on.

As far as gear ratio goes, you'll probably want around a 19-21 tooth pinion depending on what motor you get.

You'll also find a ta05 carbon battery strap (TA53884) will help if you want to put a beefy lipo in. Either that or go mad with a dremel on the chassis :woot:.
ima put on a 8.5/10.5 to start then go to a 6.5, what pinions to use? thanks for the advise, ill definatly get that then :)

[F1END]

I'd probably stick about a 19t on an 8.5.

[Sanotter]

what about for a 6.5t?

[DB01RS]

I'm running the kit 23t on my 6.5 speed passion on short astro track (Kidderminster) put a 25t on it for longer, straighter astro track (Coventry)