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View Full Version : Does the b44 suck that much?


hummer11
17-02-2008, 08:27 PM
I was looking for a new buggy il really want the b44 for a carbon buggy $300 is good vs $300 for a lazer zx-5 sp. everyone says the b44 breaks too much. if you are and expearinced driver and you drive the cars the same way will they still break?

GRIFF55
17-02-2008, 08:38 PM
I built one saturday and my mate raced it today. Took a good few knocks, all in it's stride!!:thumbsup: I had a go after the final and it seemed a very nice stable car to drive. For the money it is one hell of an out of the box racer. All i would suggest getting as an option is a front one way:D.
Hope this helps?

RogerM
17-02-2008, 08:52 PM
I've heard it's a rear top deck per run....... LOL ... but only in some peoples hands. :D

The ZX5-SP is pretty built proof and for my money handles better.

Pay's your money and takes your choice!!!

hummer11
17-02-2008, 09:15 PM
exactly where does the uppder deck break. if it is the ball stud cant you get a longer one and put a big washer on wither side?

frogger
17-02-2008, 09:29 PM
Despite having a box full of spares I haven't yet broken anything on my B44 (touch wood). :thumbsup:

IceMike
17-02-2008, 09:42 PM
I've heard it's a rear top deck per run....... LOL ... but only in some peoples hands. :D

The ZX5-SP is pretty built proof and for my money handles better.

Pay's your money and takes your choice!!!

hes tlkin about me. it breaks round the ballstuds. its the way the carbon fibre is created, it breaks down the reave of it. just rips it clean off. but ya can get stronger ones. the car is great so stable. but i would recomend some of the improvements to the build that ppl are making. such as the front hunge pins. and a front one way.

DCM
17-02-2008, 09:50 PM
Despite having a box full of spares I haven't yet broken anything on my B44 (touch wood). :thumbsup:

thats done it.... heehee

hummer11
17-02-2008, 11:32 PM
I dont kno they are the same price.

Chris Green
18-02-2008, 08:35 AM
I'd recommend trying out both cars, and see which one you prefer. Most people's views on here are going to be biased one way or another.

I personally would say the B44 would be the better choice.

I believe AE are releasing an improved top-deck to resolve the issues with that, and once that is out, there is very little wrong with the car?

With the support that associated can offer, there is no doubt it will a very successful car this season.

c0sie
18-02-2008, 09:29 AM
Rog,

Im a savage..as Wez..or anyone who saw me abuse the B44 at COBRA on Sunday..NOTHING broke..the only problem I had was the rear center driveshaft popped out (how?)..

The B44 is fecking awesome! So awesome that a 1/10th tard like me can abuse it and not have to fix anything :)

millzy
18-02-2008, 09:57 AM
I can second what Chris said, he really did abuse the car and nothing broke on it.....Wes gave it a good hammering as well and the car held up fine.

b44 did look bery good on the track as well.

c0sie
18-02-2008, 10:45 AM
Millzy, your marshalling skills were very much appreciated yesterday, thanks! :D
But yes..the B44 takes a beating :)

Lee
18-02-2008, 10:59 AM
I think its like anything, if you catch it right it will break, i have had some big crashes and the car has driven away and other times if you just land oddly or catch a corner wrong things can break

hummer11
18-02-2008, 01:53 PM
well i can go to the track with my xxx-4 and come back with it in one piece. so the b44 cant be any worse than a xxx-4 can it?
if its better i should be ok

im 15 and cant really try both cars. that would be nice though

alot of peaople have b44s at the track and i havent see any breakages

super__dan
18-02-2008, 02:26 PM
I think its like anything, if you catch it right it will break, i have had some big crashes and the car has driven away and other times if you just land oddly or catch a corner wrong things can break

You've got a B44 now?

hummer11
18-02-2008, 02:27 PM
i am selling my xxx-4 to get a b44

mattym0310
18-02-2008, 02:33 PM
looks like you've just answeredd your own question then...if a lot of people have them then that is a real plus aswell because it means parts support is better and they can help you with setups or any problems you may have. the only thing is, you dont just buy a car because its strong, you have to like how it drives, if it suits your driving style. steal some1s car next time you race and have a go with it, if you like it then you have your answer right there! :)

where do you race?
hope this helps

Lee
18-02-2008, 02:39 PM
You've got a B44 now?


No Dan, still have the BJ4:thumbsup:

I was just saying that sometimes its down to how you catch a pipe or land heavily that can break the car, i have broken stuff on some very slow corners, i have broken more rear wishbones though from landing wrong:(

hummer11
18-02-2008, 02:47 PM
http://www.csrccc.com/csrcforum/
the track is in coral springs FL heres some pics:

http://www.csrccc.com/csrcforum/viewtopic.php?t=840

i helped make it

ome one with a b44 did the big triple and was ok

RogerM
18-02-2008, 04:57 PM
hummer I am sure that somebody will let you have a drive of each of the cars so you can assess how they handle. The ZX5-SP and B44 handle VERY differently to each other, one will definately suit you better than the other that is for sure.

I went for a BJ4WE on recomendation without driving one and found it really didn't suit me at all, the result was a lot of wasted money. Only you will be able to tell which is the better car for you ...... just make sure that you drive one of each that has a reasonable set-up on it and nothing extreme that may influence how you like the feel.

Northy
18-02-2008, 05:02 PM
http://www.csrccc.com/csrcforum/
the track is in coral springs FL heres some pics:

http://www.csrccc.com/csrcforum/viewtopic.php?t=840

i helped make it

ome one with a b44 did the big triple and was ok

I don't want this to sound harsh, but it looks a bit basic. Wow, I just can not start to imagine what we could do with a facility like that! :mad:

Great potential though, I'd just try and make it a bit less straight - 90 degree turn - hairpin etc. :thumbsup:

G

d16dcoe45
18-02-2008, 07:47 PM
Hey Roger M, you mentioned that the BJ4 WE didn't suit you at all--I read your post when you had the car saying how if it had front turn in there was no rear traction and vice versa. Was that the only thing that didn't suit you? You really seemed like you despised the car in that post. I have had a BJ4 WE for about 4 months and I have been finding it very twitchy and nervous-I am not the best driver so having a car that is nervous to drive just makes it that much harder to get around the track quickly without clipping a board-even when compared to my xxx4 that I haven't run since I got the BJ.

We race on a very tight indoor track with lots of switchbacks and tight turns. Most 4wd guys run 7.5 Novak or Peak/Orion motors, I have been running a 6.5 Vector/Sphere combo.

I tried a buddies zx5 sp and that car has tons of turn-in AND keeps the rear end locked in--all using the out of box setup. I was surprised how good it was--it did feel a bit twitchy though, although that could have been due to the superfast JR servo and the radio settings he was using. I myself have a 501x World on order--super, super excited about it, even though there is pretty much zero parts support at my track--still have the bj as a back up.

Richard Lowe
18-02-2008, 08:12 PM
I have had a BJ4 WE for about 4 months and I have been finding it very twitchy and nervous-I am not the best driver so having a car that is nervous to drive just makes it that much harder to get around the track quickly without clipping a board-even when compared to my xxx4 that I haven't run since I got the BJ.
Try taking some washers out from under the front inner camberlink ballstud, and/or adding some under the rear inner ballstud. That will calm it down a bit for you ;)

d16dcoe45
18-02-2008, 09:29 PM
thanks for the tips Richard,

I did remove a washer from under the front bulkhead--compared to the Tebo setup. I will try adding another one in the rear. I have heard that part of nervousness comes from all the alloy parts--that the B44 is more "calm" because of the plastic, any actual truth to this?

Richard Lowe
18-02-2008, 10:28 PM
I can't see that - just like the plastic B4 chassis discussions, I stand by my opinion extra flex just makes the car more random.

Chrislong
18-02-2008, 10:37 PM
I believe there is a middle ground on flex, stiff is twitchy and unforgiving, twisty is random and unpredictable. The ideal is a stiffness that does have a wee bit of give, and this seems to be both fast and predictable with forgiving.... im talking chassis. I think material of smaller parts such as wishbones makes no difference so long as they're not rubber. I select that material based on where strength is required, and more recently.... which material is actually available.

RogerM
19-02-2008, 12:02 AM
Don't get me wrong, I don't dispise the BJ4WE ... it just is about as far away from the handling package I was hoping for as it could get. The car will be very quick in some peoples hands ..... I'd have gone quicker with a grasshopper .... horses for courses and personal preference.

All I will say is that the ZX5-SP is SO neutral out of the box that you can easily tune it to be almost whatever you desire.

d16dcoe45
19-02-2008, 01:57 AM
Yeah, I only did a few brief, slow laps in the Zx5 SP I tried--but even from that I could tell it makes you look like a better driver!! Very accurate car--not sloppy at all. I thought to myself "no wonder he (SP owner) is so darn fast!!"

About the stiffness: Just like everything in this world, there is an ideal balance for things. Too stiff a car (old Losi BK2 graphite chassis) makes a very twitchy almost too responsive car. Hard to drive. Too flexy chassis most likely makes a car that is kind of random and winds up with slow lap times. Remember, this is offroad r/c cars we are talking about here--so the idea of a chassis that feels cut from a solid ingot of steel (like a modern Benz or Porsche) that aids handling by letting the suspension do all the work--doesn't really apply here.

The feeling I get driving the BJ4 WE is that you better be commited in whatever you do--if you make a wrong move the car will respond exactly as directed--there is no leeway or softness to its handling. It makes very deliberate movements on the race track.

hummer11
19-02-2008, 02:23 AM
I think I am going to go for the zx-5 sp. I just started going to the track and I am more of a begginer driver
How Durable is the zx-5 because I don't have money to buy parts every week

RogerM
19-02-2008, 07:00 AM
The zx5-SP is very strong. The weakest point on the car is the front tower mount but ali versions are cheap, I'd get one for the build.
That said the current plastic mount is 1000% stronger than the original ZX5 part.

Pop over to the Kyosho section and I'll give you all the info I can.

hummer11
21-02-2008, 09:15 PM
well it looks like I can't get any car. My dad said I have to sell me xxx-4 for $180before I get my new car which probly won't happen

And I am paying for it

BS

namo
26-03-2008, 10:26 PM
I have been running the B44 since December. I must say it is rather fragile. Last Saturday I went through 2 front arms AND 2 front bulkheads, that seems a little excessive. Never got to finish a race, no fun at all...so much so that I came home and started to put all my associated stuff on eBay so I could switch out. Not sure there is a better alternative to the 44, although the new HPI Hot Bodies D4 WCE looks pretty good, but not out till May. Some early reports talks about arm and shock tower breaks though. Just can't win...
:bored:

AndyM
26-03-2008, 10:39 PM
i recommend the Predator X11 :thumbsup:

its awesome! :)

Garry Driffill
26-03-2008, 11:15 PM
i recommend the Predator X11 :thumbsup:

its awesome! :)

LOL Andy youre my hero :lol:.. The X11 seems ace soo far to me :)

for the thread to be started it already seems that there is an issue with the B44 :lol:.. Stop being tight and just buy a BJ4WE if youre going to buy either ....

Richard Lowe
26-03-2008, 11:15 PM
Not sure there is a better alternative to the 44...
Why not go for the full fat, fully loaded, no compromise origonal - BJ4WE? :)

Garry Driffill
26-03-2008, 11:22 PM
Why not go for the full PHAT, fully loaded, no compromise origonal - BJ4WE? :)

Pimy style richard :D

Northy
27-03-2008, 08:42 AM
the new HPI Hot Bodies D4 WCE looks pretty good, but not out till May. Some early reports talks about arm and shock tower breaks though. Just can't win...
:bored:


The WCE D4 has stronger arms and shock tower :thumbsup:

G

OG RC 10T
02-04-2008, 06:18 PM
I have a B44 and have owned the lazer (non sp)

From what I can tell you they are both about the same durability wise. I have run both with 6.5 motors, on the same track, and I havent had any durability issues with either buggy. They are both top notch.

From what I can say is that the lazer takes longer to build, the instructions are not as good as the B44, and unless they changed this with the sp, you need to buy the hex head screw update.

The cars are equal in my book, with the exception of 2 things. 1- The Kyosho's shocks are easy to build and are incredibly smooth. I Like them way better than AE's shocks. 2- The parts for the B44 are much easier to find and the LHS has many in stock. The shock, transmission, and many other miscleanous parts and fastners are compatiable between my B44 and the other associated products.