What improvements to the 210

[Robocop]

HI
Hearing a few things about the car and just wondering,what could be improved was it rushed at the end?

[Dudders]

Looks great on the track and off track :thumbsup:

[paulc]

I don't regret buying one but the instruction book could be better and i do think it's been rushed out

[TonyM]

In my mind it's better than any other kit I've built. OK, the steering mechanism is a bit flimsy, but I'm sure that will be sorted in time. Let's face it, the superb 410 fell down on it's too thin walled servo saver, but it still is a ground-breaking car. The key aspect for me is that, as a lower rank driver, it feels a balanced and safe car.

I've tried it at my local track today and I can push it into corners as quick as my old X6 and it has none of the 'twitchy' feeling that I had from my more recent TLR22.

All of this with no weight added, which speaks volumes for the dynamics of the car.

[jonathan may]

i will let you now when mine finally turns up.

[sunbeam]

I've seen one snap the stearing arm that conects the turn buckles. It is a little thin there. I shall machine up an alloy one during my build this week.

[stegger]

i will let you now when mine finally turns up.

When did you order yours J ? Mine is supposed to arrive tuesday :thumbsup:
Robocop, what have you heard ? It's much to early to even comment yet. Make a judgment after the car has been run for a while !

[gainsy]

Not disappointed in the slightest :D had no major problems with the build & i think it looks great, not run it yet though but can't wait
I have buds balls in the diff & it feels sweet & the locking nut fits properly in the outdrive, have replaced all the plastic washers with alloy ones which has made everything move nicely
I would say the manual could be better, for someone new to the game setting the diff up could be a problem as it doesn't say how much to tighten it up
The only slight niggle seems to be the turnbuckles being so tight they can't be adjusted on the car, on mine this only seems to happen when the ball cup is wound right in, this is because the turnbuckle becomes a bit thicker where the thread stops so if it enters the ball cup it is going to make it stiff, i drilled into my cups about 5mm & enlarged the hole just slightly, i then greased the threads & now i can adjust them on the car :D easy fix but i was lucky to notice the turnbuckle getting slightly thicker
If anyone is having any problems with the build drop me a pm & i will do my best to help you out

[andys]

Not run mine yet, but built it this week.

No servo saver, dodgy steering geometry that casuse the steering to 'lock' at full lock, and yes the steering looks flimsy too, not surprised one has snapped.

Apart from that, everything else looks good.

As Paul said, it would be nice if the manual explained some of the tuning options, ie motor/ gear options, as well as explaining all the inserts.

I'm sure this will be on the website in time :)

[mikeyscott]

I don't regret buying one but the instruction book could be better and i do think it's been rushed out

Have to agree re the manual. Sorry worst manual I've used recently.

I've taken my time, but at this stage until I learn the car more I have got 100% faith in the build.

Thought the SV manual was very good and in reality I never had a single issue with that car.

[cigbunt]

i cant comment because i dont have one or haven't seen one but im sure there a few people with "buyers remorse"

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buyer's_remorse

[mikeyscott]

I'll decide on the track.

[captainlip]

If this was me posting the thread there would have been a sh!t storm :lol:

[Robocop]

This post is not to put people off i cant wait to get mine but it will highlight things for td to have a fettle with on future kits,i hope i have not upset people but everyone will look at the cars during the build,& things will be tweeked just like on the 410.

[4_cell_racer]

As others have said the manual is lacking info and I found having to guess what to do next to get mine built lol

I also think that the turn buckles maybe a lil too long as as you thread them further into the cups they are also getting closer to where the ball cup!? Trying to get the measurements shown in the manual is hard work! The online manual shows different measurements now!

[Timee80]

If this was me posting the thread there would have been a sh!t storm :lol:
So true. PMSL:woot:

[racingdwarf]

Have to admit, I'm glad to read this thred and hope it's on going as people start to run the car in anger, I am itching to get one but from past lessons I think I may wait a month for some probs to be ironed out:thumbsup:

[fox]

HI
Hearing a few things about the car and just wondering if they regret getting one,what could be improved was it rushed at the end?

Dick head !!

[Timee80]

Dick head !!
A bit harsh! seems a valid question to me

[racingdwarf]

Dick head !!


care to type a bit more and explain why:confused:

[jonathan may]

Don,t post your childish comments here keep them to yourself . it is a valid post and will most likly be constructive one.

[jpmatrix]

Dick head !!

Why is he a dickhead?

[fox]

care to type a bit more and explain why:confused:

Spend £280 on a cougar Or any 2wd

[racingdwarf]

Spend £280 on a cougar Or any 2wd


Ok, but I still can't quite work out were you are comming from?

I did have a first batch SV, wish I had read a thred like this before with that car

[jonathan may]

what :confused:

[Robocop]

Fox
If you dont want td to know what people want to be tweeked or info or problems that people are struggling with or things that can be made better

[fox]

Ok, but I still can't quite work out were you are comming from?

I did have a first batch SV, wish I had read a thred like this before with that car

Really, that's like comparing a Kia with an VW!

[stegger]

Fox, have you had a bit to drink tonight ? Put the keyboard down and go to bed !

[gainsy]

Fox, have you had a bit to drink tonight ? Put the keyboard down and go to bed !
+1 :thumbsup:
Don't worry he's off slaging off stotfold now in a different thread :thumbdown:

[Robocop]

But has anyone said anything really bad no,just things that could be tweeked like manual,Maybe a setup book like xray
I have 210 and v3 on order so its not like i dont like durango just tell td sooner what problems as us mear mortals will put the car through more than the likes or jorn etc.
If people finding a few parts are breaking easy i am sure td would sort it if that was needed

[eyeayen]

@ Fox - clicky here (http://www.hark.com/clips/rwfcqrpcnx-youre-in-more-dire-need-of-a-blow-job-than-any-white-man-in-history)

:lol:

[gainsy]

@ Fox - clicky here (http://www.hark.com/clips/rwfcqrpcnx-youre-in-more-dire-need-of-a-blow-job-than-any-white-man-in-history)

:lol:

:thumbsup::lol::lol:pmsl:lol::lol::thumbsup:

[fox]

Sorry Robocop, my comment was out of order.. However I do think it's a ridiculous to say if you regret buying what is a great car, and great value for money...

[Big G]

I find the lower screw securing the spur/pinion cover to the motor plate is obstructed by the unused mounting points on the side pods which has now resulted in me cross threading it :( roll on the option heat sink version lol.

No complaints with the manual from me :)

[jonathan may]

Im not realy worried upgrade parts will come out and every car has a few problem here and there.

[andys]

Ran mine for the 1st time today...
Diff is a nightmare seems sweet on the bench, but run it on a high grip track (carpet indoors) and it slips like a bugger. Had to tighten it up and it started to feel very tight on the bench, others had a similar problem.

I thought I'd run it, see if it would free up, the car ran for 2 mins then lost all drive.
The fault was the circlip in the diff, it had failed and popped out of it's retaining groove.

4 other people at the track had the exact same problem !
Luckily a guy who ran a Couger had anticipated the problem when building his diff, he noted the diff becoming stiff when tightening (as the circlip begins to fail) and he'd replaced his circlip with a Schumacher one.

I rebuilt my diff as did a mate with Schumacher clips and problem solved.

Diff ran ok, but still is nowhere near as free as say an AE diff ?

So beware, your clip could fail in your diff....

[MarkLeeds]

Ran mine for the 1st time today...
Diff is a nightmare seems sweet on the bench, but run it on a high grip track (carpet indoors) and it slips like a bugger. Had to tighten it up and it started to feel very tight on the bench, others had a similar problem.

I thought I'd run it, see if it would free up, the car ran for 2 mins then lost all drive.
The fault was the circlip in the diff, it had failed and popped out of it's retaining groove.

4 other people at the track had the exact same problem !
Luckily a guy who ran a Couger had anticipated the problem when building his diff, he noted the diff becoming stiff when tightening (as the circlip begins to fail) and he'd replaced his circlip with a Schumacher one.

I rebuilt my diff as did a mate with Schumacher clips and problem solved.

Diff ran ok, but still is nowhere near as free as say an AE diff ?

So beware, your clip could fail in your diff....

I also had the same diff problem at Batley today, however after rebuilding the diff the with the schumacher circlip (thanks Eugene) same happened in the next heat, rebuilt diff again and stretched the circlip slightly and worked ok in the final. And the car was fantastic :D

[jonathan may]

well i will be using the geardiff the moment they are out

[kayce]

I'm always amazed at the threads like this, started by wanna-be engineers whose production experience is limited to clogging the toilet. :thumbsup:

[raymondkerr]

Ran mines today for the first time indoors, carpet. Went fairly well after a tightened up the diff. Has not issues with the diff thereafter. Running an SXX and X12 8.5 at profile 8 on the speedo. Had plenty of power. Had staggers on the front, fitted only to the outer edge of the rim. Steering was ok once I had correct setup the EPA on the radio. Thought about maybe trying spikes or pins on the fronts, not sure weather to go for slim or 4WD fronts as the wheels are wider.

Overall though the car felt good, very similar to my TLR22 when I had it in mid motor config.

The only thing I need to redo is my rear shocks, the pistons stick up about 1.5-2mm from the tops of the shock body which I don't think is right. I have tightened the bottom of the shocks as far in as they go. The front shocks are perfect, but the rears are way too hard, need to go for much lighter oils, I was running 35wt AE oil, but this would appear to be way too heavy.

All in all, very happy with the car so far.

:thumbsup:

[neil_p]

I have the same problem with he rear shocks, but in the build tips thread TonyM (I think) responded by saying that on the Durango hot ups, the Ti coated ones are 52mm compared to 55mm for the kit ones. A mistake or something Durango have done to save money, what I don't know?

[mikeyscott]

Hi Neil,

Sounds like more upgrades etc lol!

M

[neil_p]

Hi Mike, yeah I know!

Doesn't seem to feel wrong just looks wrong:eh?:

[Robocop]

Thats one thing i hated about the cougar the c clip in the diff,wonder if tresrey will make uprated diff halfs like the b4 and losi

[mikeyscott]

Never had a prob with the SV c clip

I do think as you say Neil, why different lengths..

[The Chef]

I went to Coventry today and saw a few 210's. Big high grip astro track. 3 210's started the B final none finished. Two broken steering sets and a rear shock tower from landing on flat from a double hump jump. The guy I spoke to was on his second rear shoc tower of the day.

The guys were quite good drivers not jammers.

Having said that when they were going they did look incredibly well balanced.

[Northy]

You guys that are having the shock piston "stick", have you fitted the cone shaped rubber bump stop onto the shock shaft? :confused:

G

[gainsy]

I have the same problem with he rear shocks, but in the build tips thread TonyM (I think) responded by saying that on the Durango hot ups, the Ti coated ones are 52mm compared to 55mm for the kit ones. A mistake or something Durango have done to save money, what I don't know?

Sounds like a cock up from durango, something they need to sort out free to everyone who has bought the kit, will be emailing them tomorrow about it, i suggest everyone else who has had this problem does the same, the more complaints they get about it the better the chance of them sorting it out for us, dont see why we should pay out for a kit that has problems & then be expected to pay more for something to put it right, if we bought a real car & the suspension locked up the manufacturer would put it right, dont see why it should be any different in the rc world

[neil_p]

Hi G,

It's not sticking, and the rubber bump stop is fitted with the shock end done up tight. Like I said, the shaft measures 55mm with the upgrade shafts measuring 52mm, and it is this 3mm that the piston protrudes past the damper body. But it doesn't seem to effect it, in fact the shocks are the best I have felt, and I thought the AE V2's were excellent!

[neil_p]

Hi gainsy,

You are right about raising this with Durango, but because the dampers felt ok I didn't see it as a big issue, think I will reconsider now.

[gainsy]

Hi gainsy,

You are right about raising this with Durango, but because the dampers felt ok I didn't see it as a big issue, think I will reconsider now.

Tony's problem seemed to be the piston getting stuck in the shock cap, that can't be good & has to be classed as a design flaw, will let you know what kind of response i get from durango :)

[neil_p]

@gainsy,

Yeah cool mate.

I only ran mine as a shake down at SHRCCC indoor, so not as much stress on the shocks as running out door.

Has no one else noticed this or is this a problem with our 3 kits?

[TonyM]

You guys that are having the shock piston "stick", have you fitted the cone shaped rubber bump stop onto the shock shaft? :confused:

G

Yep fitted. The 52mm TiNi is the perfect length with the piston just coming up to below the lip.

[jonathan may]

i have just ordered some 52mm shafts just in case and a few sets of shock towers and spare diff circlips

[gainsy]

Email has been sent to durango about the shock shafts, diff c clips & the steering
Will post what response i get:D

[jonathan may]

anyone now if the 410v3 has the same problem i have one on order as well.

[Robocop]

So i know i started this thread and got abuse from FOX but seems to have been worth its weight in gold

[neil_p]

Does any one know if the front shock shafts from the short course truck are 55 mm. If they are then it could have been a simple mix up that got written into the manual.

One other thing that is bothering me, the manual shows not to fit a screw into the last rear hole on the side pods from underneath. I know if you want to run RM the brace uses this but from the top. I know I could just fit an M3x6 cs screw, just wanted to know if any one else has seen this.

[neil_p]

@Robocop

This thread is totally worth it's weight in golden stuff!

Fox gave a little bit of keyboard verbal in RC Lazy's unboxing video thread, just thought it was funny:thumbsup: he seems to have some issues!

[Robocop]

My 210 is supposed to be on its way to me i dont know if i did the right thing of starting this thread,as problems seem to be putting me off a little but like all cars have problems but these seem to be anoying but really important ones.

[simoncrabb]

TD mentioned this in passing to me when I spoke to them in the week about big bore springs and parts.

The rear shock shafts on the 210 are indeed longer, to give more rear droop than the 52mm ones would offer.

It's totally deliberate.

[Robocop]

What are the shock towers and steering arms made of composite it may be that the mix has been done wrong happend on another car but cant remember which is was a well known brand and model but cant remember if it was a touring car or a buggy:confused:

[MikePimlott]

My 210 is supposed to be on its way to me i dont know if i did the right thing of starting this thread,as problems seem to be putting me off a little but like all cars have problems but these seem to be anoying but really important ones.

Instead of like cougars and tamiya 2wd's and have gear problems out of the box? Or any other car thats new and has problems ? That prevent you from finishing a 5 minute run!!

Surely if you was that concerned you would wait to see how they go first before ordering ?

If not at least you know for next time :lol:

[jonathan may]

TD mentioned this in passing to me when I spoke to them in the week about big bore springs and parts.

The rear shock shafts on the 210 are indeed longer, to give more rear droop than the 52mm ones would offer.

It's totally deliberate.

it looks like there plan has gone Tits up

[Big G]

1 person's piston getting jammed in the top could be that they haven't done the eyelet up quite as much as the rest of us?

It might be worth just adding a 1mm washer underneath the rubber cone just to restrict the stroke slightly. This wouldn't effect the droop.

[neil_p]

Hi Simon,

That's nice to know, but you can see why people are questioning the approved hop ups being 3mm shorter. And again, it doesn't seem right that the piston top protrudes outside the damper body. If they wanted more rear droop, why not make the damper body longer also, or lower the height of the shock tower and keep the shafts 52mm.

Don't think I'm directing this question directly at you Simon:woot:

Would also like to add, the car has some little issues, but it's brand new, and some things are to be expected. Durango have been excellent in the support with the 410, regarding updates and online support, and it was this reason why I bought a brand new release rather than wait untill problems had been ironed out.

The important thing is what little running the kit has had, everyone is reporting that it has been very good, and that I know is right, from what little running I have had with it.

[Robocop]

Instead of like cougars and tamiya 2wd's and have gear problems out of the box? Or any other car thats new and has problems ? That prevent you from finishing a 5 minute run!!

Surely if you was that concerned you would wait to see how they go first before ordering ?

If not at least you know for next time :lol:

Well after 2 years of development you would have thought all the bugs would be sorted out,would you not

[neil_p]

1 person's piston getting jammed in the top could be that they haven't done the eyelet up quite as much as the rest of us?

It might be worth just adding a 1mm washer underneath the rubber cone just to restrict the stroke slightly. This wouldn't effect the droop.

Correct, this will be my remedy to this tomorrow, thanks:thumbsup:

[MikePimlott]

Well after 2 years of development you would have thought all the bugs would be sorted out,would you not

Which part of the production car was on the prototype car 6 months ago never mind 2 years ago?

And its us mear mortals who put these kits to there limits not the big boys who could drive house bricks.
I saw 3 go today at southport and another one between rounds, all looked promising.

[Robocop]

I dont know i just drive the car thats why we pay for them to be right out the box if you bought a brand new real car you would expect it to be right would you not,nevermind that the cars are jumping in the car taking abuse on the track,if it was a real car and fell apart you would take it back would you not,dont want to start an argument but seems a few things have to be looked at

[wacattack]

Well after 2 years of development you would have thought all the bugs would be sorted out,would you not

So do you think that road car manufacturers with multi billion pound budgets have no issues with brand new cars? Look at Honda with the sticking throttle, Mercedes with a car that flips if you change direction too quickly, Ferrari 458 that set fire when you drove it.

[Nick]

If you crashed you real car and broke it would you take it back and blame the manufacture? I’m not saying the shock mounts are weak or not but did they break well you was driving round the track or did you crash first? I agree that there may be problem with the strength of some parts on the car as there is with other on the market! And as time goes by I’m sure the problem you’re all going on about will be addressed and sorted as they was on the 410 on release. At end of the day there will always be teething problems in any car on release and as with any professional company Durango will deal with them as they did with the 410.

From where I’m looking the 210 is one of the best cars out of a box you can buy value for money and quality! Just give it time and I’m sure all the problems you all going on about will be fixed. I myself do not regret my £194 I parted with one bit unlike the title that the post I saw yesterday said.

[jkclifford]

[QUOTE=Robocop;568006]I dont know i just drive the car thats why we pay for them to be right out the box if you bought a brand new real car you would expect it to be right would you not,nevermind that the cars are jumping in the car taking abuse on the track,if it was a real car and fell apart you would take it back would you not,dont want to start an argument but seems a few things have to be looked at

agree with what your saying but, you are buying a competition car, everyone will set them up differnt, there seems to be very little out the box starting point. 22 Told you how to build the car with an out the box set up, which was useless everywher (UK). 210 Set it up how you want it, all the build bugs seem to be a shim here or there. The inside wheel locking seems to be that the c hub is too narrow allowing too much lock needs a packer glued to it.

Longer shafts than shock body seems odd, mine hasn't fouled yet but can see potetial.

Generally though very pleased.

Loving the where shall I put my radio gear, rather than how on earth will I get my radio gear in!!

[bigred5765]

just a quick thought,is the piston coming over the top on the shock body when the spring hanger is on the shock??not that we have or own the car, just seen people complaine about something similar before.?

[TonyM]

Which part of the production car was on the prototype car 6 months ago never mind 2 years ago?

And its us mear mortals who put these kits to there limits not the big boys who could drive house bricks.
I saw 3 go today at southport and another one between rounds, all looked promising.

Yep one was mine and I really liked it once I'd bolted on an alloy 'bent' horn and replaced the rear shock shafts. Steve managed to break a rear shock tower and I think something happened to Mark's in the final, but not sure what. Si woosed out with an excuse that he hadn't fit any outdoor tyres to his :D [the one between rounds].

In comparison to the 22 I was running inbetween the fixes, the 210 felt so solid. Once the teething issues are solved I'm sure it will be the club car to beat for many a year.

[racingdwarf]

[QUOTE=Robocop;568006]I dont know i just drive the car thats why we pay for them to be right out the box if you bought a brand new real car you would expect it to be right would you not,nevermind that the cars are jumping in the car taking abuse on the track,if it was a real car and fell apart you would take it back would you not,dont want to start an argument but seems a few things have to be looked at

agree with what your saying but, you are buying a competition car, everyone will set them up differnt, there seems to be very little out the box starting point. 22 Told you how to build the car with an out the box set up, which was useless everywher (UK). 210 Set it up how you want it, all the build bugs seem to be a shim here or there. The inside wheel locking seems to be that the c hub is too narrow allowing too much lock needs a packer glued to it.

Longer shafts than shock body seems odd, mine hasn't fouled yet but can see potetial.

Generally though very pleased.

Loving the where shall I put my radio gear, rather than how on earth will I get my radio gear in!!


I'm not sure if the 22 kit setup worked anywere in the world,not just the uk,tryed it on our dirt track...nasty wee beasty it was:D

[TonyM]

Does any one know if the front shock shafts from the short course truck are 55 mm. If they are then it could have been a simple mix up that got written into the manual.


The SC front shafts are 44mm and rear shafts are 52mm.

[TonyM]

TD mentioned this in passing to me when I spoke to them in the week about big bore springs and parts.

The rear shock shafts on the 210 are indeed longer, to give more rear droop than the 52mm ones would offer.

It's totally deliberate.

Then the converse argument is that the 52mm TiNi hop-ups are not as effective? If that is the case why buy the hop-up?

[sunbeam]

I'm walking away form a very reliable (and new) Cougar SV pro 2011 for a DEX210. I must say, I'm a little apprehensive with it being a new car and from the first batch.

But what I have seen of the car, and what I've read about the company, I think (hope) any problems with it will soon be fixed and it will be a fantastic racer.

The Cougar is a good car, but I find the company very arrogant in it's approach to problems. I'm sure Durango are not of the same mind, please tell me I'm right.

I have seen the plastic steering arm snap after a hard bump and others here suggest the rear shock shafts, shock towers, locking steering and diff clip may give problems. But that's fine, if we know about it, we can keep an eye on it.

Does anybody know how quickly Durango normally jump on problems, do they send out replacment parts found to be fuilty?

[mark christopher]

So do you think that road car manufacturers with multi billion pound budgets have no issues with brand new cars? Look at Honda with the sticking throttle, Mercedes with a car that flips if you change direction too quickly, Ferrari 458 that set fire when you drove it.
thats very true, but when it does happen a full and complete fix is offered by the manufacture to the customer totally free of charge!!

[steel]

Yep one was mine and I really liked it once I'd bolted on an alloy 'bent' horn and replaced the rear shock shafts. Steve managed to break a rear shock tower and I think something happened to Mark's in the final, but not sure what. Si woosed out with an excuse that he hadn't fit any outdoor tyres to his :D [the one between rounds].

In comparison to the 22 I was running inbetween the fixes, the 210 felt so solid. Once the teething issues are solved I'm sure it will be the club car to beat for many a year.

Mine was a motor problem tony i found the car to be a1 all day loads of grip in the wet few crashes/clips but car was solid i was running craigs set up but with tapered pistons what adam uses :thumbsup::thumbsup:from me

[Adam Skelding]

I'll try and clear a couple of issues up on here:

1. Shocks shafts are correct in the kit. Just make sure you have fitted the rubber bumpstop onto the shock shaft before you fit the rod end.. Also once the spring perch is on there the piston doesn't break the top of the body.

We've had no issues throughout testing with shocks sticking at full compression.

As for the option part page, the 52mm shaft shouldn't be listed there. I'll get it removed today. It's also in the manual...

2. Diff - Circlip. It's best to install the circlip with some good Circlip pliers. It can be rendered useless if you try and force it in... A few tips here to help ensure your diff is built correctly.
a. There are two sides to the clip a flat side and a rounded side. When you install the circlip keep the 'flat' side facing you this way when under pressure from the thrust race the contact faces between the clip and the diff ring are the flat ones.

b. One the circlip is installed. Try to open it out a little either with the circlip pliers you just installed it with. Or insert a large flat blade screw driver between the open ends of the circlip and give the screwdriver a twist, this will open the circlip back out a little removing any 'shrinkage' of the clip on installation.

c. Make sure you put in the diff screw and T-nut in the correct sides. It builds differently to other diffs out there. Don't just build it 'the way you have been building ball diffs for 20 odd years'.

3. Breakages.
Shock Towers
These are always hard ones to justify... Sometimes when you break something you only see the end result of part that has already been weakened. We broke towers in testing and in racing, but TBH they were justified. We have towers from the production batch and the mix is good.

Steering.
Honestly, we never saw a broken one of these during testing, it must have been a really hefty hit.. We even did some testing at Coventry so we know what to expect from the track.

[jonathan may]

I'll try and clear a couple of issues up on here:

1. Shocks shafts are correct in the kit. Just make sure you have fitted the rubber bumpstop onto the shock shaft before you fit the rod end.. Also once the spring perch is on there the piston doesn't break the top of the body.

We've had no issues throughout testing with shocks sticking at full compression.

As for the option part page, the 52mm shaft shouldn't be listed there. I'll get it removed today. It's also in the manual...

2. Diff - Circlip. It's best to install the circlip with some good Circlip pliers. It can be rendered useless if you try and force it in... A few tips here to help ensure your diff is built correctly.
a. There are two sides to the clip a flat side and a rounded side. When you install the circlip keep the 'flat' side facing you this way when under pressure from the thrust race the contact faces between the clip and the diff ring are the flat ones.

b. One the circlip is installed. Try to open it out a little either with the circlip pliers you just installed it with. Or insert a large flat blade screw driver between the open ends of the circlip and give the screwdriver a twist, this will open the circlip back out a little removing any 'shrinkage' of the clip on installation.

c. Make sure you put in the diff screw and T-nut in the correct sides. It builds differently to other diffs out there. Don't just build it 'the way you have been building ball diffs for 20 odd years'.

3. Breakages.
Shock Towers
These are always hard ones to justify... Sometimes when you break something you only see the end result of part that has already been weakened. We broke towers in testing and in racing, but TBH they were justified. We have towers from the production batch and the mix is good.

Steering.
Honestly, we never saw a broken one of these during testing, it must have been a really hefty hit.. We even did some testing at Coventry so we know what to expect from the track.

Nice advise Adam thanks :thumbsup:

[mikeyscott]

Many thanks, going to re- check my diff build tonight re which side I put the C clip

[TonyM]

I'll try and clear a couple of issues up on here:

As for the option part page, the 52mm shaft shouldn't be listed there. I'll get it removed today. It's also in the manual...
.

Thanks for all the advice Adam. Pity I bought the option shafts when listed by MB as spares for the 210 :bored:. I can only think then that there must have been some kind of build error on my behalf, I did have the rubber gromit fitted, so I'm a bit mystified.

Super feel to the car BTW. I used Craig's setup for the National at Southport.

[Matt Butcher]

i cant find it in the manual but what should the shock lengths be?

Run my dex210 yesterday for the first time, i had a couple of issues with the diff during the build and wasnt 100% happy with it, but after its first run all was good, re adjusted the diff again and was faultless all day. im very happy with my frst 2wd buggy :)

Also a quick question for you setup experts out there: how do you get more on power steering other than changing tyres as i only have one set of front wheels at the mo! with stagged ribs fitted.

thanks

[Timee80]

Could tryraising rear inner camber link, lower steering spindle, soften front end, or lengthen front camber link

[Chris Doughty]

Thanks for all the advice Adam. Pity I bought the option shafts when listed by MB as spares for the 210 :bored:. I can only think then that there must have been some sought of build error on my behalf, I did have the rubber gromit fitted, so I'm a bit mystified.

Super feel to the car BTW. I used Craig's setup for the National at Southport.

with the shock rod-end screwed on fully and the shock built with the bump-stop AND the spring cup the piston will not go any further than it should.

As long as you can get the amount of droop that you want when using those option shock shafts, you can use them no problem.

[Chris Doughty]

i cant find it in the manual but what should the shock lengths be?

Run my dex210 yesterday for the first time, i had a couple of issues with the diff during the build and wasnt 100% happy with it, but after its first run all was good, re adjusted the diff again and was faultless all day. im very happy with my frst 2wd buggy :)

Also a quick question for you setup experts out there: how do you get more on power steering other than changing tyres as i only have one set of front wheels at the mo! with stagged ribs fitted.

thanks

you can't overcome 'wrong' tires, but some things that will help.

more caster will give you more on-power steering (but reduce turn-in)
also you could try playing with the trailing axle amount... its a really simple change that should have an effect on the way the car enters and exits turns

[muratti]

with the shock rod-end screwed on fully and the shock built with the bump-stop AND the spring cup the piston will not go any further than it should.

As long as you can get the amount of droop that you want when using those option shock shafts, you can use them no problem.

If you use the shock boots do you also have to use the bump-stop as i think i remember that on the normal DEX410 shocks you don´t need them as the shock boots fully compressed work as a kind of bump-stop, am i correct?

[Chris Doughty]

If you use the shock boots do you also have to use the bump-stop as i think i remember that on the normal DEX410 shocks you don´t need them as the shock boots fully compressed work as a kind of bump-stop, am i correct?

Yes, pretty much, but with it counting on a 'crumpled' rubber it could be a less consistent bump stop amount. it might be worth checking and adding some external spacers to compensate if required.

[Robocop]

Hi
I ordered the 52mm shafts the black ones direct from td can i send them back and either get a refund or the correct ones

[Chris Doughty]

Hi
I ordered the 52mm shafts the black ones direct from td can i send them back and either get a refund or the correct ones

drop an email directly to Durango - support@team-durango.com

Forums are great for 'chat' about products, but if you really need an answer to a question or a query direct communication is the best way.

posts in forums are so easy to miss, it just happens that I saw this one as I'm actively looking on this thread today.

[jondell]

drop an email directly to Durango - support@team-durango.com

Forums are great for 'chat' about products, but if you really need an answer to a question or a query direct communication is the best way.

posts in forums are so easy to miss, it just happens that I saw this one as I'm actively looking on this thread today.

Not much going on today then Chris? feet up, oople on...

[Adam Skelding]

Not much going on today then Chris? feet up, oople on...
Nail on Head!

[jondell]

Nail on Head!

Ohhhh, so there's two of you with not alot on!!

Back on thread.... car is really good, great build and good basic set up included. Found the car needed a few runs to loosen up suspension, as it was pants in the morning dampness when new. As the day went on it was much better than my limited skills.

[mikeyscott]

Ohhhh, so there's two of you with not alot on!!

Back on thread.... car is really good, great build and good basic set up included. Found the car needed a few runs to loosen up suspension, as it was pants in the morning dampness when new. As the day went on it was much better than my limited skills.

Hi Jon,

Where did you test the car? Stotfold?

Any particular tips from the setup master?

Cheers,

Mike

[neil_p]

A big thanks to Chris and Adam for clearing up these things, excellent support from Durango.

Regarding the shafts, I did not try with the spring retainer on, but I want to change oil any way so if I get the chance I will do it tonight and have a look. But I did have the end screwed on fully with the bump stop fitted.

On thing that is bothering me is on the manual, no where it mentions to fit a screw into the last rear hole on the side pods. I know using RM that the pod is used to scure the brace from the top but not from underneath. I know I could just fit a M3x6 cs screw, just wanted to know if any one else has noticed this or weather you shouldn't fit a screw there.

[jondell]

Hi Jon,

Where did you test the car? Stotfold?

Any particular tips from the setup master?

Cheers,

Mike

Ha, unfortunately, i am not the set up master when I'm driving, it as it takes all my powers to focus on controlling it. Yes i was at stotfold. Car was pretty much stock and the changes i made were to swap pistons around as has been suggested, 35wt front, 27.5 rear (losi oil) and then change to a 1.5 rear squat block. Key thing in the build is to get those inserts fitted right, the markings are not easy on the eye.

Also in light of limited wheels, i managed to fit tamiya 201 wheels on the front by shimming out the excess space on the axle (these wheels take 5x10 bearings) and to fit pin drive wheels on the back by using a 3/16 x 3/8 bearing (which is a RC10 B4 front wheel bearing and a perfect fit) and a split pin.

[Chris Doughty]

A big thanks to Chris and Adam for clearing up these things, excellent support from Durango.

Regarding the shafts, I did not try with the spring retainer on, but I want to change oil any way so if I get the chance I will do it tonight and have a look. But I did have the end screwed on fully with the bump stop fitted.

On thing that is bothering me is on the manual, no where it mentions to fit a screw into the last rear hole on the side pods. I know using RM that the pod is used to scure the brace from the top but not from underneath. I know I could just fit a M3x6 cs screw, just wanted to know if any one else has noticed this or weather you shouldn't fit a screw there.

The updated manual online does include these missing screws, take a look, there a quite a few small updates
http://www.team-durango.com/pdf/manuals/TD102006/DEX210-manual.pdf

Jon - glad to see your enjoying the car so far, yes, it might be a bit tight initially, but it should bed into 'perfect' instead of going sloppy.

Jon & Adam - HA! you guys are funny! :p

[andys]

Many thanks, going to re- check my diff build tonight re which side I put the C clip

Don't take the clip out unless you have a new one to replace it with !

You will know if the clip isn't doing it's job as your diff will feel very tight. I found mine was slipping after building the car and it's 1st run on the hall carpet, I had to tighten it to stop the slipping and then the diff felt far too tight - could still slip though..

After a quick run, I lost all drive as the clip failed completely. The diff still feels tight though when it fails, just the drive gear spins freely when the clip goes.

Now I have the Schumacher clip in (looks like a very different kind of metal) it's fine.

I really do think that people who put the clip in the wrong way round will have a problem, if you were lucky and it feels / runs ok, chances are you put it in the right way round !

[tyreman]

The only issue i found with mine was the 1.3mm kit pistons were oversized, and sticking in the shock body, once i reduced the diameter it was really good.

[gainsy]

Thanks Adam & Chris for all that info :thumbsup:

[joho]

Hi Adam, I am very confuse here... For the circlip, the flat side should face the thrust bearing or the diff ring side? Thanks for helping out!


QUOTE=Adam Skelding;568102]I'll try and clear a couple of issues up on here:

1. Shocks shafts are correct in the kit. Just make sure you have fitted the rubber bumpstop onto the shock shaft before you fit the rod end.. Also once the spring perch is on there the piston doesn't break the top of the body.

We've had no issues throughout testing with shocks sticking at full compression.

As for the option part page, the 52mm shaft shouldn't be listed there. I'll get it removed today. It's also in the manual...

2. Diff - Circlip. It's best to install the circlip with some good Circlip pliers. It can be rendered useless if you try and force it in... A few tips here to help ensure your diff is built correctly.
a. There are two sides to the clip a flat side and a rounded side. When you install the circlip keep the 'flat' side facing you this way when under pressure from the thrust race the contact faces between the clip and the diff ring are the flat ones.

b. One the circlip is installed. Try to open it out a little either with the circlip pliers you just installed it with. Or insert a large flat blade screw driver between the open ends of the circlip and give the screwdriver a twist, this will open the circlip back out a little removing any 'shrinkage' of the clip on installation.

c. Make sure you put in the diff screw and T-nut in the correct sides. It builds differently to other diffs out there. Don't just build it 'the way you have been building ball diffs for 20 odd years'.

3. Breakages.
Shock Towers
These are always hard ones to justify... Sometimes when you break something you only see the end result of part that has already been weakened. We broke towers in testing and in racing, but TBH they were justified. We have towers from the production batch and the mix is good.

Steering.
Honestly, we never saw a broken one of these during testing, it must have been a really hefty hit.. We even did some testing at Coventry so we know what to expect from the track.[/QUOTE]

[Northy]

Hi Adam, I am very confuse here... For the circlip, the flat side should face the thrust bearing or the diff ring side? Thanks for helping out!


The flat side (with the square edge) should face the diff ring/diff balls.

G

[Chris Doughty]

Hi Adam, I am very confuse here... For the circlip, the flat side should face the thrust bearing or the diff ring side? Thanks for helping out!

The flat or sharp side of the clip should face away from the thrust race and towards the diff gear

[joho]

Thanks a lot, Northy and Chris! I had the pleasure and pressure:p to make sure I explain correctly in my building report for my fellow Chinese TD fans! Can't wait for the build.:lol:

[mikeyscott]

The flat or sharp side of the clip should face away from the thrust race and towards the diff gear

Flat or sharp indicating it doesn't matter :eh?:

[jkclifford]

flat or sharp, being the opposite of the rouded edge, its where they are punched out when manufactured. You position the square edge of the clip to the shoulder which is holding it in.

[jkclifford]

Actually run it today.


All the little niggles forgotten.

Absolutly amazing.

[drop4205]

make sure you note the size of the thrush washer outside diameter. One is larger than the other and might be the reason some are having trouble. The smaller one goes in first then the caged thrust then the larger thrust washer then snap ring.

[TonyV2382]

I'm walking away form a very reliable (and new) Cougar SV pro 2011 for a DEX210. I must say, I'm a little apprehensive with it being a new car and from the first batch.

But what I have seen of the car, and what I've read about the company, I think (hope) any problems with it will soon be fixed and it will be a fantastic racer.

The Cougar is a good car, but I find the company very arrogant in it's approach to problems. I'm sure Durango are not of the same mind, please tell me I'm right.

I have seen the plastic steering arm snap after a hard bump and others here suggest the rear shock shafts, shock towers, locking steering and diff clip may give problems. But that's fine, if we know about it, we can keep an eye on it.

Does anybody know how quickly Durango normally jump on problems, do they send out replacment parts found to be fuilty?

Uhh...Schumacher arrogant?...I think not homie. ANY problem I have had was solved with not more than 1 email. And to be honest since I bought the schueys Ive had maybe 2 problems all year. Both problems solved with new parts mailed within days and Im in the US.

Owned the dex...never heard back from rango ever regarding any problem. Luckily I had a sponsored rango guy with me when I needed something but if it wasnt for him I wouldve junked it. In the end after going through all the issues it worked well....but I probably wont own another rango....just personal preference, Schumacher service has spoiled me. So with that said, Im sorry but anyone that knows schuey customer service knows they're anything but arrogant, and more eager to please than most companies. You're asking how fast Durango jumps on problems and if they send replacement parts quickly because you know well schuey does in that dept....and fast. So to answer your question simply....no. Ive owned everything under the sun, and no company is as quick as schuey. Just a fact.

good luck with your 210...hope it works as well as ur reliable cougar.

[mjk37]

Would love to see the RF Suspension holders in Aluminum like the 410 option as I have seen one of these break on a very weak touch of the wall and have read of others breaking this as well.

Not expensive to replace by any means but a PITA to fix.

[Andyp]

Would love to see the RF Suspension holders in Aluminum like the 410 option as I have seen one of these break on a very weak touch of the wall and have read of others breaking this as well.

Not expensive to replace by any means but a PITA to fix.

Mmmm, it would ok to have an alloy block but it would only put stress somewhere else, maybe a wish bone break or a hinge pin bend , you may not notice the hinge pin bend till a re build so it could cause some funny handling .

[mjk37]

Mmmm, it would ok to have an alloy block but it would only put stress somewhere else, maybe a wish bone break or a hinge pin bend , you may not notice the hinge pin bend till a re build so it could cause some funny handling .

Just easier to change an arm or hinge pin IMO and the alloy parts on the 410 are a must have.