X4 diffs

[lordnikon]

Stripped a drive cog (small one) on the X4, main diff drive was also damaged. It looks like i ran the slipper to tight and this was the first thing to give, ho hum.

Any tips on making these things last as long as possible ?? I have let the slipper off now so that should help :blush: lol

Also, do you run these diffs with diff oil, or dry ? If wet whats the best thing to use ? I've Ceramic grased the diff balls and rings etc, its just the drive cogs in question.

Thanks for any info :thumbsup:

[Robbiejuk]

Is this on an X4TE (Carbon one) or an X4pro (Plastic one)?

I am just wondering which gearbox casings you have.

Ultimate advice is make sure you shim the diffs so that they are free but with no backlash. All gearboxes are slightly different and so will require different shimming to be correct. For example when I built my X4 TE I put both shims on one side as per instructions and it was way too tightly meshed, put one either side and it was free and with no backlash. Some have ended up putting three shims inside the box to get the same results.

As for grease I have never run any grease in my gearboxes. Always run them dry or if a little tight then a spot of diff grease, and I mean a little spot. Don't pack them with grease, that causes no end of problems.

Have a look in the x4te build and trick thread for pro4nuts excellent gearbox build advice.

[lordnikon]

Its the X4pro with the plastic cases, seen the shimming and searched for the threads, some seemed to be dry, some wet so was alittle confused. :blush:

[pro4nut]

No stress mate, shimming the diffs is very important.

First add shims on the gear side of the diff to set the mesh. Put your thumb on the little gear to hold it still and then rock the large gear forward and back to feel how tight the mesh is. You should have a tiny amount of movement in the main gear. You may need to buy more shims 2 is often not enough.

Second after you have set the mesh you need to shim the other side to ensure there is no side to side movement of the diff, start without any shims with the car facing away from you put your thumb on one outdrive and your forefinger on the other and see if there is any side to side play. If there is add a shim and repeat until the play is removed.

Good luck.

[jim76]

you may also benefit from the improved rear gearbox case as i think the standard X4pro rear case sits at a slight angle for the prop shaft. The X4TE case sits perfectly parallel to the chassis. Not sure if Ansmann have made that a rolling change in the latest X4pro kits.

Most people have reported no more gear stripping when moving to the new gearbox case

[steve-thebabystore]

I know it was a possible problem before I purchased the car, but since build the gearboxes have been spot on - its a TE so will have the new gearbox ases.

[pro4nut]

Jim the gear box has been changed in the kits.

I have run shaft drive cars since the early preds,

You will strip gears, just like a belt car will snap belts.
If you read my build tips and above post you will be fine.

[jim76]

Lordnikon has the plastic chassis version, not the x4te. Ansmann may have made it a rolling change but he should check the angle of his prop shaft. If it is an early case then definitely order a new case as it is still prone to stripping even with good shimming.

[lordnikon]

I'll take a pic tonight guys and post it up, fingers crossed its the newer one :thumbsup:

[madmax]

i run a x4pro with a bmax rear gearbox case what is basically the same as a te case. the problem with the pro casing is in the molding. when you build the gearboxes i build mine a tad on the tight side and with a smear of grease on the teath run them and after about a meeting they a perfectley meshed for me.