Bmax4-Worlds info/build/tipps/pics

[Fatal1ty]

Here we go! :thumbsup:

Finished the kit this week. Its my 5th Bmax4 Kit, and again it was very nice to build.
The changes as we know:
- shock caps
- inner camberlink mounts
- slipper
- middle drive shaft with blades
- new lightweight body

In the kit you can see there are also some changes in the building steps and in the standard setup. Here you see the minor changes.

http://www.abload.de/img/img_0401hi898.jpg
http://www.abload.de/img/img_0399bs81r.jpg
http://www.abload.de/img/img_0397pr8vn.jpg

The standard setup changed in the following areas!
Front:
- long wheelbase
- outside camberlink hole on the c-hub with 0 shims
- outside camberlink hole on the new mounts with 0 shims
Rear:
- inside hole on the new mounts with 2mm shims
- 1.3 swaybar
- green spring
- wing cut down on last line
- 1° camber

Here are some building pictures.

http://www.abload.de/img/img_0374yo8pt.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_0376138aw.jpg


http://www.abload.de/img/img_03845x8cq.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_0393mb8g7.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_03810w86q.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_0382rr8qd.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_0395bw8tx.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_0396nm83z.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_0398qo8eq.jpg

Finished! Still have to solder some new goldplugs on the cables.

Here are some building tipps:
- do on every side a 1mm shim on the inside of the arms, then you got less play on it
- let the hole drive train run in before the first run (20min with 30-40% throttle on a car stand)
- sand the diff rings with 600-800 paper, they are not flat out the kit
- let the diffs run in!! on the big ring gear there are some small nipples, which rub on the diffrings at the beginning (there are for less axial play of the diff gears). When building, just screw the diffs down until in has little pressure on the diffs, then let it run in on every side 10s holding, 1/8 turn in the screw, ... just until the diffs are smooth and free. Without that, you will think that the diffs dont lock enough. Thats, as I said, because of the nipples of the ring grear which rub on the diffrings. BUT dont sand them down, they are important!
- you cant get the rideheight out the box. Just drive the car 1 battery, and you will see that the spring have settled down. Also they need to "run in" :)
- prepare the spindles with a file, that you have more turn in, and the dont touch the c-hub so fast. You can file them back, just until the steering bridge hits the steering posts. Important, no more!

feel free to ask for questions and more pictures! :thumbsup:

cheers

[discothesnake]

Looks great. I love the b max!!

I have a bmax-4 II and i reckon i will get the worlds pack to add to the car. Do you think i will have to go to Japan for that or will eseller get them in??

Dave

[Kusal]

Google for rc race drift japan; I prefer this one. Site is up to date and shipping costs are OK.
Could be that your LHS also has it?!

[njc11]

On this build did you find you had to shim the spur/slipper assembly more than the kit suggested?

I had to add 2 or 3 cant remember 0.2 shims..

:thumbsup:

[/tobys]

What are you doing building a BMAX Nick?

[njc11]

Dont worry Toby!! lol!!

Ive had my BMAX since they first came out... loved the car.. kept it.. and just thought to get it up to spec.. and keep as a shelf queen :thumbsup:

The car is full BMAX4 II Worlds Spec... Be interesting to see how Col goes with it tomorrw...

:thumbsup:

[Fatal1ty]

On this build did you find you had to shim the spur/slipper assembly more than the kit suggested?

I had to add 2 or 3 cant remember 0.2 shims..

:thumbsup:

Good Point! I did the same, on the backside of the slipper. 2x 0.2 shims more and its ok!