new to 2wd - Cougar S1 an option?

[Jnunu1]

Hi

Thinking about a move to 2wd and don't want to go down the b4.1 route .

Seen the Cougar S1 at an attactive price and wondered if it was worth a go as starting point then poss upgrading bits and bobs as I go along?

Are the big bore shocks the "main" difference (apart from all the CF obv.) to the CF version and what else would be an absoloute route. Also looking to run saddles so is it saddle ready out of th box?

Poss also thinking about a dex210 but the S1 is £60 cheaper - will I quickly spend the difference on the S1 on upgrades etc?

Thanks

John

[jim76]

If you plan to run saddles then the x2c will be a far better bet. The cougar isn't saddle friendly out of the box. the full list of differences between the s1 and full fat are on schumachers site.

[adamjimny]

with s1 you get non threaded small bore shocks and carbon are main difference but you will need the saddle lipo kit to run saddles unless you place them in the stick pack layout but i love my cougar. i use stick packs with weight under lipo and its brilliant and well balanced

you wont be upset but may work out better to buy second hand pro with big bores etc and saddle kit on maybe few upgrades for around 100 mark

[Jnunu1]

with s1 you get non threaded small bore shocks and carbon are main difference but you will need the saddle lipo kit to run saddles unless you place them in the stick pack layout but i love my cougar. i use stick packs with weight under lipo and its brilliant and well balanced

you wont be upset but may work out better to buy second hand pro with big bores etc and saddle kit on maybe few upgrades for around 100 mark

Yeah, one went on ebay last week for about £65 but it had the small bores attached so didn't bother.

Will keep my eyes peeled.

[sunbeam]

If you want saddle because that's what you have, don't worry, two saddles fit it the standard single lipo tray end to end. This is how my car runs because I had a saddle B44 and didn't want to buy new cells. The Cougar does not need the saddle conversion. It is spot on in normal short chassis stick form with added weight

I made a .75mm brass under tray that adds 135gram plus 20 gram under the servo, 5 hole shocks 40/35 oil. My car is fantastic :thumbsup:

http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz357/rbush/DSCN4379.jpg

[adamjimny]

i got my sv pro with spares for 110 posted and then bought a s1 as spares but the big bores are better of the two.

i will be trying some threaded small bores tonight which are nearly same as s1 spec shocks to see which i prefer and ill let you know.

iv just added a brass 160g weight under the lipo so ill see how that goes.

[bigred5765]

theres no need for anywere near that weight almost all of the team run little to no weight at all, matty runs weight under the servo only 20-30 grms

[simoncrabb]

theres no need for anywere near that weight almost all of the team run little to no weight at all, matty runs weight under the servo only 20-30 grms

Well, I'd say that was a matter of opinion. The team drivers may be more able to handle a light car?

Some people prefer a heavier car?

[sunbeam]

theres no need for anywere near that weight almost all of the team run little to no weight at all

I was Tallywain a few months ago and Tom was running 90g under the li-po, and Trish bits front and rear brass weight. In total about 150g !

This is why I made the brass plate as the car was to light to get any real traction. I added the weight, stiffend the oil, added the 5 hole pistons and I was instantly 2 laps quicker.

All that info was give to me by Tom at Tallywain and it works !

I don't think anybody would argue with Tom Cockerill ??

[bigred5765]

isnt needed all the time mate,we have run virtualy without all year, but running saddle pack format at the mo so thats probably why

[sunbeam]

isnt needed all the time mate,we have run virtualy without all year, but running saddle pack format at the mo so thats probably why

OK, whatever works for you :thumbsup:

[adamjimny]

how a car drives is ALWAYS personal and after trying with weight and small bores all i can say is wow. drove stable and easy to drive and not just that but usually up against 4wds you get bullied out of the way with them having front end grip but with the added weight mine was so planted when they tried to bully me mine didnt budge from my racing line and they cocked up.

so in my opinion it works amazingly and knocked 1.5s off my lap (small track) and made it more constant (knocked 3s off my average)

[thorns_nz]

Hi all, like the original poster I am looking at the basic Cougar.

How do these go on a 1/8 scale dirt track, that is pretty loose, and bumpy? Are they really designed for astroturf like you mainly run in the UK so may struggle on dirt? Was also looking at the DEX210, but at the price on offer, its around 100 USD cheaper than the DEX so it caught my attention.

Have not run electric buggys before, always 1/8 nitro, so no idea wether a CF chassis over the S1 chassis would be better for rough dirt tracks. Are there any must have upgrades that are needed?

This is the buggy here:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_44_1561/products_id/170574/n/Schumacher-Cougar-SV-Race-S1-2WD-1-10-Off-Road-Buggy-Kit

Thanks,
Paul

[adamjimny]

these cars drive pretty well on anything but as with any model its all how you set them up/what tires you use etc but they go well on any surface.

only downside with s1 spec is shocks are non threaded but still work well and i prefer s1 spec chassis to the carbon fiber one as it flex's a little more making it better on loose surfaces