Potential new racer?

[AlexBruv]

Hi,

Went down to Pegasus models in Norwich to look at a few cars.... (got 3 atm)
and whilst i was there they mentioned the Norfolk buggy club and i was quite intrigued to find out more, so searched up on Google and found you're website, read through it all.....

Now i read that only 1/10 buggies are allowed on grass, so i assume that 1/8 aren't?
Are both 1/8 and 1/10 buggies allowed on dirt?

Now as i used to race a TC down at Trowse i have a fairly good understanding on how it works, i.e get there, sign in, charge batteries, get transponders, race, then marshal?

Its coming Christmas and I have been looking at getting a 1/10 buggy to buy,
Maybe be cheap but saw an Ansmann Mad Rat in Pegasus picked it up and to be fair it felt rather rigid and strong compared to the reviews i have read... as it is so cheap i will more than likely buy 2, 1 to race and 1 for spares, is this a good starting point with the ESC, Motor and Battery combo for a starter (i am quite confident driving and racing) as i will probably buy a spare car for parts?

For the motor and speed controller i have chosen a hobbywing xtreme stock esc with an x-car hobbyking 10.5t sensored motor, and (already owned) 2s turnigy 5000mah lipo batteries, would this be a good combo as i have asked a few people already and they have told me that off road sensored is as good as on road sensored?

Now for tires i have read that i can use anything except spikes?
So i have gone for the Fastrax H pattern tires... now will these be fine for dirt and grass or just one surface, i plan on using the stock tires until they wear out and then replace, is this a good choice in tire or is there a better tire such as the bow tire ETC???

And last question, is there anything i should know, like what do i need to race i.e member ship ETC?

Thanks :thumbsup:

[Dandare]

Hi & welcome.

We run RallyX 1/8th & 1/10th electric (majority 2wd) on the dirt & 1/10th electric only on the grass. I would say also the grass layout is too small for 1/8th anyway.

The structure for racing is quite casual & certainly friendly, no transponders though. Depending on numbers, Dave may set up his laptop for lap timing etc & maybe get mains power for the sheltered pitting area for re-charging, lighting etc if it's windy, cold, wet etc.

I'll be bias regarding Ansmann as i run my x2c (mid motor) & a Mad Rat as a back up. They're great cars for the price. Might be worth looking at the Mad Monkey too (equivalent to Mad Rat but mid motor), generally seen as better on high grip ie, grass or astro. Rear motor Mad Rat slightly better on loose surfaces ie, dirt. May also be worth considering 2nd hand. Certainly a Rat or Monkey are cheap enough to get another for spares, though i'd rather get 2 or 3 of the parts which break the most & maybe upgrade too instead of having one of everything, some parts of which you'll maybe never use. Either way, you'll want to upgrade with a set up bearings to replace the kit bushes & maybe an uprated idler gear ,or both for the Mad Monkey, especially with brushless/lipo's.

We've had a few guys with Associated B4.1 brushless RTR buggys which go well too, proven design, better shocks, 2.4Ghz radio etc: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/associated-rc10b4.1-brushless-rtr-2.4ghz-yellow-grey-/rc-car-products/35112

2wd 1/10th tyres, i've found the Mad Rat/Monkey front kit ribs work well on our dirt track, or Schumacher Stagger Ribs. On the rear we generally use the Pro Line Bow Tie M3's. On grass it's Schumacher Mini Spike yellows on the rear & greens if wet, & Stagger Ribs on the front.

The kit rear tyres aren't really ideal for either track tbh, if anything they may work better on dirt than grass.

Can't comment on choice of electrics, i'm sure the other guys more clued up will offer good advice.

That's it, just turn up with your gear, lunch, warm clothes etc. £3 per meeting for electric, i think £4 for nitro RallyX.

Hope some of this helps,

Dan.

[AlexBruv]

Thanks for a good detailed reply,
I have read about upgrading the stock idler gears to a nylon idler gear, or i think it is the firestorm idler gear.
is this right?

I will try and get hold of a pair of pro-line Bow Tie M3 tires and Schumacher Staggers.....
I'll be sure to bring a 12V car battery for power just in-case all my spares, tools, and my trusty soldering iron :lol: ETC.....

am i right in thinking the next meet is on january 15th?
If so i'll be looking forward to it :)

Thanks :D

[racingdwarf]

Hi

Well dan has just about covred it:thumbsup:. As he has said we are a bit more relaxed than a sunday evening at trowse. I think you would be fine with eather a mad rat or monkey,but as also said if you can spend a little more the B4.1 or the losi 22 are both good rtr packages,and are a slightly better quality car.(pegasus can order both in). your choice of electrics looks fine, we tend to stick to sensored brushless, only thing I will say is if you can aford a speed controler that will go down to at least an 8.5 it may pay off in the long run, as you have driven before you will soon get the hang of offroad,and want that bit more power.

As said, 10th on grass, tyres are schumacher yellow compound mini spikes,2wd mini spikes on the front or stagger ribs on the front, also if it's a bit wet a set of ballistic buggy spikes in green compound can be good to have.

On the dirt we run control tyres on the rear, these are the proline bowtie(on the shelf at pegasus) and any rib on the front also allow the schumacher stagger rib.

pop any questions you like at us,I hope we are all more than happy to help, and look forward to meeting you trackside:thumbsup:

Dave

[racingdwarf]

Yep, you will need to replce the ansmann idler gears, but ansmann do some good nylon or metal ones, I will find the part No's up for you

yes I think 15th jan is next, on the grass track.

[AlexBruv]

Thanks...

I have looked around and the Firestorm Flux idler fits But its not too smooth, but as long as it doesn't strip i think it should be fine :)

Xtreme Stock ESC, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180757190192?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1932wt_1270

2s lipo, lowest of 8.5T
60A, 380A burst
Sensored and Sensorless
Has a Turbo boost timing aswell, I have seen the ESC in action on a TC and tbf its a very good ESC, i wil take your word on wanting more speed though :P

So here are the tires i will order (just to clarify)
For Grass - Pro-Line Bow Tie M3, Schumacher Stagger Rib
For Dirt - Schumacher Mini spike yellow, front and rear?
And for wet Grass what about Schumacher Blocks for the rear?

[Dandare]

Part No. for the Ansmann nylon idler is AR28T.

Dry grass, Mini Spike yellow on the back.
I use front Mini Spikes yellow on a rear motor car or Stagger Ribs on mid motor config.
Wet grass use Mini Spike greens instead of yellows.

Dirt, go for rear Bow Tie M3's on the rear & either ribs or Stagger ribs on the front.

[AlexBruv]

Part No. for the Ansmann nylon idler is AR28T.

Dan.

Thanks :)
Question, Does the Mad Rat have a steel, or plastic spur?
and what pitch is it?

[Dandare]

80T plastic, not sure about the pitch, seems some other Ansmann kits are .6 pitch ??

[jcb]

Always good to see some new interest coming through to the off road scene, as far as I can see everything has been pretty much covered.

The ansman seems to be a good choice of car although I have no personal experiance of them.

The only thing I would recommend is that you get a battery that is BRCA legal, although the club doesn't run to BRCA rules should you wish to race at different venues your LIPO may have to be BRCA legal, and if you wished to race in a regional or national event it would have to satisfy the rules. The legal batteries are also tested for safety for that little extra piece of mind. The list can be found at
http://www.brca.org/sites/default/files/library_files/BRCAchairman/2011%20BRCA%202S%20Stick%20LiPo%20List%20v1%20pdf1 _1.pdf

I'd happily recommend, LRP, Nosram, Speedpower, Intellect and Vampire range of Lipo's.

[AlexBruv]

Always good to see some new interest coming through to the off road scene, as far as I can see everything has been pretty much covered.

The ansman seems to be a good choice of car although I have no personal experiance of them.

The only thing I would recommend is that you get a battery that is BRCA legal, although the club doesn't run to BRCA rules should you wish to race at different venues your LIPO may have to be BRCA legal, and if you wished to race in a regional or national event it would have to satisfy the rules. The legal batteries are also tested for safety for that little extra piece of mind. The list can be found at
http://www.brca.org/sites/default/files/library_files/BRCAchairman/2011%20BRCA%202S%20Stick%20LiPo%20List%20v1%20pdf1 _1.pdf

I'd happily recommend, LRP, Nosram, Speedpower, Intellect and Vampire range of Lipo's.

Ill take that into mind.. but are my esc and motor race legal? because if they aren't then could you send me a link to either a race legal combo, or a race legal motor and a race legal esc, thanks :woot:

[jcb]

There is no restriction on the speed controller at the present time, as for motors and all the batteries the current lists here http://www.brca.org/?q=content/homologation-lists-2011-updates/1402

It may cost you a little more initially but you'll only end up buying once.
I've always liked the Nosram motors, with the speed passion ones are supposed to be a little smoother and don't run so hot.

If this is your first foray into 10th off road I'd recommend either one of the spec 10.5 turns or an 8.5, both will give you plenty of speed, especially if you match them with some of the big C rated Lipo's that are available.

Motors and speed controllers are compatible between the makes, and I'd always run sensored brushless. Your best bet is to tell the shop your budget and see what they can get. ESC's from Nosram, Orion, LRP, Novak, tekin and Speedpassion are all well regarded as some of the best on the racing scene.

[AlexBruv]

No restrictions on ESC, thats why i couldnt find anything on BRCA....
Now looking for an 8.5T and/or 10.5T motor, i have a Novak ss pro 10.5 atm in another car, but my as well get an upgrade as i was going to get a motor anyway

EDIT** ... found this, not trying to skimp on quality but its Speed Passion 8.5R http://www.modelsport.co.uk/speed-passion-ultra-sportsman-version-3.0-sensored-motor-8.5r/rc-car-products/366938

[AlexBruv]

Good news!
I have just ordered my Mad Rat,
The list;

Mad Rat Kit
1 pair wheels front a rear (buggy)
Power HD High torque metal geared servo
Pro-line Bow Tie M3
Schumacher Cut Stagger
Schumacher Block rears (no body recommended but ill test/try them)
Xtreme Stock ESC
Firestorm 28T idler (strong but doesn't run as smooth)
And mystery shell with custom paint job

I have a Novak 10.5T motor, will soon order 8.5T
2S 5000mah Lipo
2.4ghz rx/tx

So hopefully i have covered everything :D

EDIT*** .... are there any like ally parts that are worth getting, got some credit on ModelSport to spend :D

[racingdwarf]

Looks like you have enough there to hit the track:thumbsup:, I will take a look at the ally bits

[AlexBruv]

Looks like you have enough there to hit the track:thumbsup:, I will take a look at the ally bits

Hope so :D
I have a Brushed no limit ESC and will use the stock motor for a back-up if something electrical goes wrong...

When it all comes i will get the bow ties, and cut staggers mounted up, drive it with stock tires then put the blocks on so i have 2 sets ready blast the track :lol: ......

Thanks wanna see the ally bits :woot:

EDIT** found all of these ally bits some nice carbon bits, will but them as i break things,
http://www.fusionhobbies.com/Ansmann-Racing-Mad-Rat-Hop-Up-Parts-s/442.htm

[kaylon]

I shall be frequenting this buggy club very soon :) ... I currently run several budget cars myself (brushed) and really enjoy it. I'm all about simply taking part and having fun rather then winning (if i ever do win though I'll buy everyone a drink).

I'd like a wee bit of info though that I can't seem to find about charging etc... do I need to buy one of these big caravan batteries or is there mains somewhere hidden around ?

Also..are there other people around at the club who run cars like the LRP blast etc... I do have an Ansmann X-pro (first gen) which I do love but hate working on :) ... I'm wanting to race either my LRP or my Maverick Evo. I also would love to race my E-Firestorm if Truggies are an option :D

Oh I have a FTX Carnage that I LOVE to so if anyone wants to join me racing these I'd love it!

I'll try and make the 15th of Jan to see what's going on... really looking forward to it :D

J

[Dandare]

Be good to have you come along :thumbsup:

We have indoor pitting with mains power, lighting etc, though this can depend on numbers turning up to race & the weather tbh. If we don't have the benefit of mains then some of the guys have leisure/caravan batterys, myself & a few others just charge from our car batterys.

We mainly race 1/10th 2wd buggys with a few 4wd's thrown in, is your LRP Blast & Maverick Evo the buggys or truck, short course etc variants ?
I would say the X-Pro would be the best bet for club use (or maybe the LRP Blast (buggy??)

Best just come along if you can make it, bring your gear, lunch etc, it's a very chilled out affair with friendly advice on tap if so desired :thumbsup:

Dan.



(if i ever do win though I'll buy everyone a drink).

(This can be arranged, lol)

[AlexBruv]

All my stuff turned up today and my initial thought was, i didn't know i ordered so much...
The pro-line bow ties are really soft i meant like soo soft i would sleep on them :woot:
the only thing is i didn't get the xtreme stock esc :( but i do have a just stock esc to run for now

I have some fastrax ally shocks and some upgrade parts ready for order when stuff breaks...

Roll on 15th

[Dandare]

Roll on 15th

:thumbsup:

[Dufty07]

Cant wait, look forward to meetin u.
Merry christmas N.B.C:thumbsup:

[AlexBruv]

Sorry guys that i haven't been able to make it on any of the weeks.
But i have been ironing out some flaws with the mad rat such as,

a) The shocks are a bit sloppy, a few drives and one of the oil seals have gone, so ill be getting these shocks for it - (rear) http://www.fastrax-rc.com/rc-products.php?productId=0000004356&cat=PO, (front) http://www.fastrax-rc.com/rc-products.php?productId=0000004354&cat=PO ....

b) The screw that goes through the diff to hold it together is a bit weak, it sheared off at a bash in thetford making me go home :( ....

c) The most major one, the front chassis brace - It is weak as hell, i have snapped 3 now. But i have done a mod to the rat to fix it, i have cut the same shape as the front chassis brace out some 2/3mm ally and screwed that over the top of the old chassis brace - It has worked wonders, it also has a little bumper on the end for little knocks.

For some upgrades is it worth getting, the Kevlar spur gear, kevlar diff gear, kevlar front chassis brace, and the carbon fiber shock towers and rear T piece? - here are the kevlar parts http://www.ckhobby.com/shop/?controller=category&path=79_82&page=2 --- I will buy all my other spares from Apex models as it's in the UK.

I have ordered some 30-35WT shock oil and i have some Pro-Line Bow Ties, schumacher cut staggers and schumacher rear block tyres.
I also have a brand new un-painted buggy shell ready to be painted for the track..... should expect to see me in the next few weeks, after i have the buggy dialed.

Thanks guys :D

[jcb]

Sounds like you have most things sorted there. I gather the kevlar gears are a worth while investment, but can't really comment on the rest as I don't run an ansmann. Just be aware that by making one part much stronger you could cause cause a more expensive part to break.

Personally I'd pop along to a race meeting to see what the guys are running that are using the same car as you.

Look forward to seeing you at a race meeting soon.

[Dandare]

I probably wouldn't bother with carbon shock towers, as Jon says it's all too easy (& tempting) to make a part which is quick & easy to replace trackside strong ie, carbon or alloy) & end up effectively moving the weakest link to another component which may take ages to replace. Same with alloy hubs/hub carriers. I believe the rear T pieces were factory modded a while back so they may not be an issue.

I don't know what you've done to your Rat so far but with mine i fitted the ceramic diff balls & upgraded nylon idler gear (part No. AR28T)
Ball raced throughout.

I just bought a couple of the most common (but easily replaced) OE parts which break ie, shock towers, supsension arms, hubs etc.

Dave (Racingdwarf) may have something to say regarding the main diff screw as i believe he uses a different one in his Monkey due to the same problem...

[AlexBruv]

I probably wouldn't bother with carbon shock towers, as Jon says it's all too easy (& tempting) to make a part which is quick & easy to replace trackside strong ie, carbon or alloy) & end up effectively moving the weakest link to another component which may take ages to replace. Same with alloy hubs/hub carriers. I believe the rear T pieces were factory modded a while back so they may not be an issue.

I don't know what you've done to your Rat so far but with mine i fitted the ceramic diff balls & upgraded nylon idler gear (part No. AR28T)
Ball raced throughout.

I just bought a couple of the most common (but easily replaced) OE parts which break ie, shock towers, supsension arms, hubs etc.

Dave (Racingdwarf) may have something to say regarding the main diff screw as i believe he uses a different one in his Monkey due to the same problem...

I have used the hpi racing 28t metal idler gear instead of the stock one - it works a treat, and i have made a front chassis mount with bumper to protect and stop the breakages of the stock chassis brace.

i have ball raced the rat too so that shouldnt be an issue, just waiting on money to buy a new esc - the hobbywing xtreme stock....
I will speak to racingdwarfe regarding the diff screw and see what he reccomends.

Thanks