Aero Setups

[DaveG28]

Hi All,

Interested to see what setups people are running on the car if anyone has run it yet, specifically:

1. Damper oil weight

2. Gearing (I don't know the final drive so not sure what people are running, if anyone has a 5.5 or 4.5 motor especially 'd be interested to know?)

3. Slipper settings

4. What electrics (servo's/motors/esc's)

Hopefully I'll be able to get a few pointers from it!

[KevLee]

Hi All,

Interested to see what setups people are running on the car if anyone has run it yet, specifically:

1. Damper oil weight

2. Gearing (I don't know the final drive so not sure what people are running, if anyone has a 5.5 or 4.5 motor especially 'd be interested to know?)

3. Slipper settings

4. What electrics (servo's/motors/esc's)

Hopefully I'll be able to get a few pointers from it!

Hi Dave

This is what i am currently running

1, Front: Losi red piston with 40wt
Rear: Aero piston drilled with losi 54 holes (Blue)

2, on Nosram/LRP 5.5 (with sintered rotor) - 21/84

3, Slipper set to 250gramms on the tool :thumbsup:. But my advice would be to start loose and work your way up gradually. You need a bit of slip to "save" the gears

4, Tekin R1 Pro, LRP/Nosram 5.5, Team Almighty EnerG4600, KO 2413

hope that helps

[Lee]

Kev, whats this slipper tool??? i read that there was one in the manual but it didnt come in the kit so assumed it was a language thing:confused:

[Wraggy]

Kev, whats this slipper tool??? i read that there was one in the manual but it didnt come in the kit so assumed it was a language thing:confused:
its a set of scales Lee:woot:,+ the attachment

[Lee]

I think im midsing something here:o

[KevLee]

I think im midsing something here:o

Yeh, as wraggy said, its a set of digital kitchin scales and a lever arm with drivehsaft attachment. It allows you to consistently setup your slipper without the guess work. I think Aero are working on a something at the moment.

[DaveG28]

Hmm, I normally run with the slipper very tight and let it wheelspin, but I've always used belt drive before so it just breaks the belts, not the gears! From what I've seen of the manual (I don't have it with me), will it be pretty easy to keep removing the slipper to tighten it if I build up gradually? I remember the manual saying back off an 1/8th of a turn I think?

Also, I'm sure someone has already said this at some point but is the kit spur 48dp? I need to get hold of some pinions!

Dave

[DaveG28]

Oh, and back on my receiver thing, KevLee you run Spektrum don't you? DO you use a micro or normal size spektrum receiver?

I'm asking as it doesn't look like my futaba will fit, but if the normal size spektrum does I could get the HRS version and not lose any response time!

[Lee]

Dave, the slipper unit can be removed in 10 secs or so. And yes the spur is 48dp.

Has anyone moved the steering links to the top of the rack to try and get rid of the toe out when the suspension is compressed?

I have done it but not run it yet but i had to shim the hub end by about 1.5mm to stop lots of toe in when it compresses.:)

[stegger]

Lee, the slipper tool is in this pic. I've seen a pic of it being used but this is the only one i can find. It's sitting just under the car;)

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a207/cheshiremodelcars/OOP_8860.jpg

[DaveG28]

Cheers for the info Lee!

Bit of info from Aero (although I'm guessing everyone got the email), they've said the team drivers have been using the 0degree rear toe in so far, so don't think I'm going to bother changing mine!

Has anyone run the car yet, I know they've warned about weak wishbones but I'm interested to see if anyone has dared run it anyway?

Dave

[spenner]

I have run the car the last two weeks at Eden Park and Kidderminster....

I had some sensor wire issues at Eden park which was frustrating, yesterday at Kiddie the car felt really good when the track was dry... could do with a little more time to get perfect set ups..

At the moment there is lot of time being spent on getting the car right for all tracks, this isn't going to happen over night.

I have doubled up on front shock tower to give me the extra 3mm support..
The time spent on getting this car right will only benefit the customers so keep your eyes open on setups and future updates....

Im lucky that i pit with UK Team driver Kev Lee so i can see what effort is being made...

[Lee]

How weak are the wishbones?

The fronts look very similar to bj4 ones.

As soon as i get a dry day im going to have a run out with it:thumbsup:

[DaveG28]

I'm trying to decide how quickly to push mine into action, am I right in thinking there's no spares available as yet?

Does anyone know when they will be available?

[spenner]

Due to the cold that we have in Britain this time of year the wishbone are a little brittle...

They won't break by just going round the track or jumping etc... you would have to hit something to break them.

So they aren't like glass!!!

[Lee]

Will BJ4 ones fit?

And does anyone know when theraceplace will be getting the first batch of bits?:)

[stuhurley]

I broke a front wishbone yesterday and replaced it with a B44 one. There's a small amount of dremmeling to do where the inner hinge pin is (too much plastic on the B44 one) and the hinge pin hole is too small (drilled out to about 3mm).

Also broke a rear hub and replaced it in similar fashion.

I'm fitting alloy rear hubs next but have to get the hinge pin hole drilled out again (3mm).

[Lee]

good to know stu, how did the car go? Did you change it from the std pistons?


Also a little tip, the std O rings feel very hard and tight on the shaft, i rebuilt mine with nortech whities and i filed down the top spacer a touch to stop them being squashed so much. They feel really nice now.

kev told be about the thinner top shim bit but im not sure if he changed the O rings as well:)

[stuhurley]

car was pretty good. my setup needed/needs some work though.

I was running
Rear
32.5wt
blue piston
kit pink spring rear

Front
35wt
orange piston
kit orange springs front.

With hindsight (and talking to some other people)
Rear
30wt
blue piston
Losi Red spring

Front
40wt
red piston
kit orange spring

is a good starting point. (I think KevLee posted above).

Those kit black piston holes are far too small (I just use losi ones now).

Oh, when I changed the front wishbone, I changed both sides. they look identical apart from the extra material around the hinge pin, but you never know. Just keeps it all even

[Lee]

OK cheers stu,

Do you find when running a losi piston at the rear that the car will not pack and slaps down of a jump, i cant get the rear to stop bottoming out from about 8", i think the losi piston might be fractionally smaller in diameter.

I am going to drill out a aero piston to #54/ 1.4mm and try that , the front feels fine though:thumbsup:

[DaveG28]

I broke a front wishbone yesterday and replaced it with a B44 one. There's a small amount of dremmeling to do where the inner hinge pin is (too much plastic on the B44 one) and the hinge pin hole is too small (drilled out to about 3mm).

Also broke a rear hub and replaced it in similar fashion.

I'm fitting alloy rear hubs next but have to get the hinge pin hole drilled out again (3mm).

So is it only the B44 part that needs changing, or did you have to dremel/drill any of the Aero?

I reckon if I can use B44 wishbones and then find some front uprights too (not the ali castor blocks) that'll fit I can risk using the car!

[stuhurley]

yes, you just dremmel the B44 parts to get them to fit...

The rear hubs require an extra 1mm spacer to get them to fit, plus drilling the hinge pin hole.

I'm looking for some drill bits now...any idea where to get them from? (the racers edge ones any good?)

[stuhurley]

OK cheers stu,

Do you find when running a losi piston at the rear that the car will not pack and slaps down of a jump, i cant get the rear to stop bottoming out from about 8", i think the losi piston might be fractionally smaller in diameter.

I am going to drill out a aero piston to #54/ 1.4mm and try that , the front feels fine though:thumbsup:

yeah, that's why I was trying the 32.5wt oil to stop a bit of that. I'll be trying the drilled pistons too (once I get some drills!! :D)

[Northy]

I can order a batch of Losi piston size drills (proper number ones) if you guys want? :confused:

G

[DaveG28]

yes, you just dremmel the B44 parts to get them to fit...

The rear hubs require an extra 1mm spacer to get them to fit, plus drilling the hinge pin hole.

I'm looking for some drill bits now...any idea where to get them from? (the racers edge ones any good?)

Hmm, I use cheapo b&q ones but I'm guessing their not a very exact size! I'd have thought a good DIY drill bit would to though?

Anyone know of any other make of front uprights that might fit too? I'm thinking it could be a little while before we see Aero spares, they've only had about 30 kits so far from a preorder list of @150!

Have to say though, am very impressed with their attitude to us, they've been really helpful to me, and owned up straight away over the wishbones issue!

[Spencer Mulcahy]

I broke a front wishbone yesterday and replaced it with a B44 one. There's a small amount of dremmeling to do where the inner hinge pin is (too much plastic on the B44 one) and the hinge pin hole is too small (drilled out to about 3mm).

Also broke a rear hub and replaced it in similar fashion.

I'm fitting alloy rear hubs next but have to get the hinge pin hole drilled out again (3mm).

Sorry Stu. :blush:

[stuhurley]

lol, no worries spence I dont blame you at all.

Actually, it was a good thing, cos now I know I can use other parts :thumbsup:

[spenner]

As soon as The Raceplace has stock of all Aero products we will announce on here..

We are hoping for end of next week!!!

[sparrow.2]

You can probably get a durga/501x front end to fit. At least the wishbones ought to be a straight fit with a bit of dremelling but would save you the drilling out of the holes.

[Lee]

I got some losi style number drill bits today:thumbsup: the correct numbers too

54 55 56 57

The kit holes are smaller than the losi black piston:o

Im hopefully going to give mine a run tomorrow if its dry:thumbsup:

[DaveG28]

You can probably get a durga/501x front end to fit. At least the wishbones ought to be a straight fit with a bit of dremelling but would save you the drilling out of the holes.

hmm, my other car is a 501x, it'd be great if I could move some parts between the 2, I might get the calipers out this weekend and see! What's the Aero hub bearing size again? Also anyone know the drive shaft lengths?

Just thinking until spares are available could literally put an entire 501x front end on if necessary!

[DaveG28]

I got some losi style number drill bits today:thumbsup: the correct numbers too

54 55 56 57

The kit holes are smaller than the losi black piston:o

Im hopefully going to give mine a run tomorrow if its dry:thumbsup:

Setup question for a dummy like me:

If the piston holes are very small, can't I counteract it with light shock oil?

[Lee]

Yes to get the same feel at slow piston speeds, but say you land of a jump the shock will pack and lock up so not absorb the landing as much as you would like.:)

[Lee]

I had mine out today, i took the aero to batley as well:lol:

The car felt pretty good and its able to be pushed and still stays on line even with the biggest bumps batley could throw at it.:thumbsup:

I tried the setup as kev posted above which was good but i found the car to snatch a little on the grass mid corner, i moved the front camber link to the inner hole on the hub, sorted:thumbsup:, it was more aggressive turning in but felt really nice.

I really didnt know what to try next so i just went from an orange to a losi green spring just to see what it did and it felt very good, the car had more slow speed steering and held lines even better, but i clipped a paving stone and broke a wishbone :thumbdown:, i got some b44 ones on the way home so ill be drilling them out tonight.

All together im a happy chappy, the car feels good and was rapid in a straight line, im going to play with the rear shocks as i think they need thicker oil in (ae 30wt with 54 drilled aero piston Currently)

Looking forward to the weekend now:thumbsup::woot:

[Lee]

Had another run today, had a few teething problems early on, like the screws that hold the front hubs on coming loose. but its an easy fix.


The car felt very safe early on, too safe to be quick. i changed from a 3 deg toe block back to kit and the car was suprisingly good. The track was super slippy(batley) and i was running BB green spikes.

Right now the setup is

Front, 40wt losi green spring, red piston
Inner link on hub, and top inner on shock tower.
0.5 camber
Toe 0 deg

Rear 32.5 wt pink spring blue piston (drilled aero #54)
Std toe
Camber link 3/4 way down on tower, middle on hub
Camber 0.5

Ride height is the usual drive shafts level on rear and wishbones level up front,

The car feels good, i think the car will be awesome when it gets a set of minispikes on it. To give it some side bite. Its very easy to drive it for 5 mins without it biting you.

I am also using a 1 way diff.


slipper setup: with an allen key:woot:

[stegger]

Lee, how did it go yesterday? did laying the rear shocks down improve the rear end or did you break it again:cry: Looked good what i saw though. After getting the teething problems out of the way it should be good:thumbsup:

[Lee]

The rear end felt too soft with them moved in top and bottom, i moved them back for the final but it was hard to gauge if it was better as i couldnt feel my fingers and i took some random lines at times.

I think its 90% there now, just fine tuning, the car can be driven fast and can go up the inside of someone when you want it too. just need to make it reliable but like i say its all pretty much done now.:thumbsup:

[MikePimlott]

Lee i thought your setup yesterday was rear wishbone not connected :lol:
Seems the cold took its toll on the parts.

[Lee]

The only thing that i actually broke yesterday was the front wishbone and this was only where the ball stud pulled out where the shock bottom connects, i put a longer steering link on, the other was too short and made it weak, and my rear camber link nut came off, so ill be purchasing some nylock ones asap.

Just ironing out the creases before the nats:lol:

[Lee]

I have made up a quick setup sheet for the Aero. Have a look i dont mind anyone using it. Let me know if i have missed anything off it:)

2487

[Lee]

Had a good day today with the aero, i seem to have ironed out a lot of the small issues:thumbsup:

I did 3 runs before it snowed and finished them all, so reliability is ok:thumbsup:


The car had masses of steering but was also very predictable, i used a diff, usually im a 1 way man but i felt the diff was easy to drive and the brakes were good for the short blasts between corners on todays track.

Here is my setup from today, any questions please ask.

2521

[jimarea51]

Lee, good skills with the setup sheet:thumbsup:

You refer to losi piston number, are you runing the losi piston or re-drilling the Aero pistons??

I watched your car in your last run and it's starting to look like a serious contender....

JIm:p

[Lee]

:woot: Cheers jim, its getting there:thumbsup:

The pistons are aero ones drilled to various sizes, losi and ae pistons are a slightly smaller diameter so the oil goes down the outside instead of through the holes:thumbdown:

There is a few more things i want to try but i am confident i can turn up at kiddy now and the car will be pretty good:thumbsup:

[DaveG28]

Hi Lee,

Are you cutting any spikes off the tires (outside edge) or running them as standard? If as standard are you getting any grip roll?

[Lee]

I have the inside and outside rows cut off the front, the rears are full.

I experienced some grip roll yesterday on the banking at bury but i think this was because the back end was a bit high. I was also going to take the outer row off the rear if lowering the rear didnt help.

[DaveG28]

Cheers Lee, my tranny module arrived today so fingers crossed if the rear wishbones make it by the end of the week, I'll give it its first run on Sunday in the MW regional, in prep for Kiddy nat!

[Lee]

Dave what is wrong wit the wishbones in the kit?:confused:

[DaveG28]

Just want to wait for the stronger ones to arrive, I'm worried that if the kit ones fail it may break other parts from dragging them along?

Are the kit ones not actually too bad then? I was about to bin the front ones, wheels too!?

[sparrow.2]

Just want to wait for the stronger ones to arrive, I'm worried that if the kit ones fail it may break other parts from dragging them along?

Are the kit ones not actually too bad then? I was about to bin the front ones, wheels too!?


How long have you been building this thing? I thought you bought cars to run them and not to obsess about the build :woot:

No offense meant!

If you want you can fit TRF501x or Durga front arms as well. You have to dremel them a bit but they are STRONG and fit well with a bit of work.

And then get out and run it :thumbsup:

[Lee]

Rear arms arent too bad dave i took one out from landing off the side of the table top at the IF`s. I think any wishbone would of snapped actually.

Wheels will be ok when its a bit warmer, its running them in freezing temps that causes them to crack, but aero are rectifying this. I used my aero wheels for worksop, they were fine.

Also when the wishbones break they dont bend anything:thumbsup:

The stronger ones might though:lol:

[Northy]

Might be worth looking at D4 front wishbones? They are metric too :confused:

G

[DaveG28]

How long have you been building this thing? I thought you bought cars to run them and not to obsess about the build :woot:

No offense meant!

If you want you can fit TRF501x or Durga front arms as well. You have to dremel them a bit but they are STRONG and fit well with a bit of work.

And then get out and run it :thumbsup:

No offense taken, but I couldn't fit my existing electrics in, or the first thing I bought to replace them, so there's been no point rushing building it when I can't then run it anyway!

All my build questions are because I've only ever built Tamiya TRF's (501 and tourers) before so have never built shaft drive and am used to the most detailed instructions ever!! I'm rubbish at guessing this stuff and my kits go a LONG time between rebuilds, so really want to get it right first time! So apologies for boring you all with dumbass questions! :thumbsup:

[modelimages]

dave
you should have your spares tomorrow,kit wishbones are brittle, the glass content was not right, the replacements are not stronger they just have a different composition to make them less brittle. two aeros running at stotfold yesterday and no problems with the replacement parts.
john

[Lee]

Is this spares kit coming to everyone automatically or do we have to request it?

[stuhurley]

Whats the new spring sets equivelent too?

http://theraceplace.co.uk/oscommerce/product_info.php?cPath=36_72&products_id=336

(in Losi colour terms??)

[Lee]

not sure stu but i think they are all softer than losi green, i am waiting for the rates from aero

[DaveG28]

dave
you should have your spares tomorrow,kit wishbones are brittle, the glass content was not right, the replacements are not stronger they just have a different composition to make them less brittle. two aeros running at stotfold yesterday and no problems with the replacement parts.
john

Thats great thanks John! Its really nice how hard Aero have worked on improving the few weak points, think about other cars that have been released with issues and they rarely fix them this quick!

[sparrow.2]

The new wishbones look and feel so much better than the old ones! Nice amount of flex without being too much and way more solid than the first ones.

[maxoo]

the Front caster block are 6° or 4°???

[DaveG28]

Do the instructions get them the right way round by the way? Mine add to the castor of the wishbones themselves, but the driveshafts rub them on full lock!

[Lee]

Yes thats right:)

[Northy]

Is it like a handbrke effect on the inside wheel? :confused:

G

[Lee]

To be honest G i didnt notice it till you pointed it out:confused:

[DaveG28]

I'll get a good idea of if it has any effect this weekend, weather permitting!!

The steering does seem a little different mind, I reach full lock on it with only 50% EPA!!

[Lee]

Dave, there doesnt seem to be much steering lock, but the car has plenty of steering on the track, if you need more though you can always dremel off the bit of hub that hits the castor block. I havent done this but i think kev has. I suppose its there if you need it

[DaveG28]

Just done the "dirveway" test before its first run tomorrow, its nice and quiet and a rocket in a straight line!! :thumbsup:

Think maybe I should have followed everyones advice on the shock pistons though, looks very bouncy at the back, will play with springs/oil tomorrow!

Has anyone found out the spring rates on the spring sets yet? Also, found any alternative pistons, bit worried about drilling mine without having spares!

[KevLee]

Dave,

As a starting point drill your pistons to 57 (black) in the front and 56 (red) in the rear. and run it on 30 wt oil all round with blue springs up front and reds at rear.

you can always go slightly softer later but thats probably a good starting point and is pretty much what i'm running.

I can post my setup here if you are interested but little things are changing all the time at the moment.

If you are using losi pistons, take them out, you'll find very little difference between the different hole sizes because the oil is going round the edge of the piston (they are slighly smaller even if they do look close)

Just done the "dirveway" test before its first run tomorrow, its nice and quiet and a rocket in a straight line!! :thumbsup:

Think maybe I should have followed everyones advice on the shock pistons though, looks very bouncy at the back, will play with springs/oil tomorrow!

Has anyone found out the spring rates on the spring sets yet? Also, found any alternative pistons, bit worried about drilling mine without having spares!

[DaveG28]

Cheers Kev, I don't follow the drilling bit though, is that sizes of hole your suggesting (57 etc)?


Would be great to see your setup, though maybe your right in that its best to wait until its settled first, I may pop over at Kiddy to ask where your ending up on setup though if thats ok? :thumbsup:

[Lee]

Dave, the drill sizes kev is referring too are an imperial size, 57, 56, 55 and 54, these are the size of the holes in the losi pistons 57 being the smallest hole (black) and 54 being the biggest (Blue)

last weekend i ended up epoxying the holes i had drilled in a piston and drilling some more:thumbsup:, im 56 in the front and 556 in the rear. i have made a few changes to my car for tomorrow, so i shall be trying how kev ran his last weekend, i was quite close anyway but i used a losi front spring and was 5 wt thicker in the front.

If you are racing at southport tomorrow come over, your welcome to have a good look at the car and pick my brains.


Off topic but has anyone received the new plastic replacement bits yet?

[bigred5765]

northy sells the drill bit sets
lee did you look in to having them made from ptf
I'm sure some nice man with a lathe will oblige

[Lee]

I am carl the ptfe bar is peanuts, i just need to get a nice man with a lathe now:lol:

[DaveG28]

Cheers Lee, I'm at Ledbury tomorrow, at least until the rain comes!! Are you at Kiddy next week?

By the way, I have no scales at home, I assume it doesn;t come in underweight, I've never see a 4wd even close?

Oh, and no, haven't had the plastic bits yet! Think they may still be working on the wheels though, and I guess they'll want to send it all at once!

[Lee]

No probs dave, ill be there next week, the car is feeling good now, im sure you will be very impressed:thumbsup:

[DaveG28]

Certainly liked it just mucking about today, felt very "sharp" I guess is the best word!

[KevLee]

Cheers Kev, I don't follow the drilling bit though, is that sizes of hole your suggesting (57 etc)?


Would be great to see your setup, though maybe your right in that its best to wait until its settled first, I may pop over at Kiddy to ask where your ending up on setup though if thats ok? :thumbsup:

I think your questions have been answered on the drill sizes. I will post my setup after tomorrow on what i plan to start with next week.

You are more than welcome to come and have a chat next week (i'll be pitting near the raceplace shop). Bob an Kim are planning on being there so you'll be able to have a chat with them too.

[DaveG28]

Sorry guys, do you mean 57 is 0.057" drill bit?

Ran it today, and sadly struggled a little, defintiely with running stock pistons!! Got a bit better when I put my tamiya dampers on it (I don't have the correct drill sizes) although it still didn't like jumps!!


Reasonably happy though, it was similar speed to the 501x I run by the end of the day, not a mile off anyway, and I think will get better once I get the dampers sorted! :thumbsup:

[DaveG28]

While on shocks, are you guys using extra washers to remove the play in the piston between the c clips? My pistons wobble but not sure if thats bad!?

[Lee]

Dave, i did try a washer in between the piston and the clip, i didnt notice any difference to be honest when i did.

With regards to drill sizes its not as straight forward as you think but here they are

#57 = .043"
#56 = .0465"
#55 = .052"
#54 = .055"

If you want some for kiddy, i can get you some, i have to go to the shop anyway.

I ran mine again yesterday, it felt pretty good again but i was on BB greens as it was a bit damp, i only used it for 2 runs and when the track dried i got the B4 out to give it a run for kiddy.

[DaveG28]

That'd be great thanks Lee! Any idea what the standard diameter is, is it less than 1mm?

[Lee]

i didnt measure it but i would guess its equivelant to a losi natural which is .0400"/ 1.00mm

Ill pick some up on the way home on friday:thumbsup:

[DaveG28]

Chees Lee! :thumbsup:

When you over did the drilling and had to epoxy, how wide had you drilled? I'm thinking of trying 1.2mm all round.

Dave

[Lee]

Dave, its not really that i over did it, it was ok as a #54 piston, but i just wanted to try a different combination. Hopefully bob and the aero chaps will have pistons with them at the weekend so i can drill till my heats content, but right now 56 front and 556 rear feels nice, but we will see at kiddy.

[DaveG28]

If you get chance Lee, remember the drills!

[Lee]

Picking them up today on the way home from work :thumbsup:

[DaveG28]

Nice one! :thumbsup:

Made the pistons 1.1mm to start Sunday with, feels much better in the drop test, might take some camber off the front too, I've got some longer turnbuckles as I was struggling to remove enough off the front, I like to run pretty upright.

Think I'll start with about 15psi in the floatation aids too, from the looks of the weather! :p

[Lee]

Dave are you running on the inner hole on the front hub?

[DaveG28]

Yeah, had considered moving it out but had a vague recollection I'd been told on my tourer that shortening that link removes some sharpness out of the front, and I like to keep it as sharp as possible on turn in! My driving is quite :mad:!

[Lee]

Dave, it wouldn`t take away the "sharpness" but it will stop it biting mid corner.

You may of changed it yesterday, it would be interesting to see what peoples set up`s were at the end of yesterday:D

[roro78]

Hello again I Sui (french) I want s'avoir if someone has the setup of all the national races of Martin Lee thanks in advance.

[DaveG28]

I'll post up something on my setup when I get chance Lee, maybe tomorrow or Wed, its of limited use so far though as I have not managed to resolve the damping problem. I now believe this may be as I need to "lighten" up or reduce the packing in the kit seals.

Generally though am loving the amount of steering the car has, it's soo much sharper than the Tamiya, I'm pretty conifdent once I get the damping sorted it'll handle the bumps and give a bit more traction, and then I can work from there on setup. Its definitely showing some glimpses of being very fast, despite me struggling so far!

Got the new gears off the Aero guys too, without the LSD element, looking forward to trying that once I am happy suspension wise.

How did everyone else find there's?

[freud]

LoL RORO tes un grand malade Toi :thumbsup:

[Lee]

Mine felt pretty good dave, very easy to drive yet sharp and precise.

Regarding shocks, get some nortech whities in it and sand down the spacer that sits in between the 2 O rings this will stop them pinching the shaft and causing extra friction.

What oil and pistons did you end up on?

[DaveG28]

I was running 20wt (well tamiya #200) oil, and whichever drill bit was @1.3mm on the rear, and 20wt oil with one drill size smaller on the front.


The front was not too far off, but the rear just sits on the ground when you push it down, doesn't come back at all!!

Definitely not getting negative on the car though, I really feel when I unlock it I'll find it quicker than the 501x, just need time to get it right, and also I think to concentrate on the one car. I ran the 501x for the first 2 rounds yesterday then the Aero after, and really struggled to adapt as the Aero is way "sharper". Then in the 3 runs I did do with the Aero ran 2 different size piston holes with different weight oils too, so never ran the same setup twice!!

Already got some whities on order, and will either sand down the spacer or find a slightly smaller one to replace it with, I assume it only needs a little bit?

How did you find yours?

[Lee]

The car was very good and consistent, sharp, lots of turning yet very stable, even on the greasy track it felt good and was faster than a lot of cars in the heat, it was just me making small mistakes which cost me dear.

1.3mm hole is close to a losi orange (55) and the smaller one you refer to is a #56 (red) im not sure on tamiya oil i have never used it, but i ran losi 35wt front and 30wt rear with 56 front and a 556 rear piston. I ran aero blue spring front and red rear.

The sanding down of the spacer or washer does really help, the o rings also expand with the oil and this wont help.

Front:
I ran a short camber link on the hub (4mm spacer) and in the upper/inner hole on the tower and inner shock position on the tower and outer on the wishbone.

Rear:
Middle hole on hub and inner on tower 1/3 from bottom. shock was middle on tower and w/b.

2 mm in front of wishbone and 3mm behind for wheelbase, the hub was also long but this is something i am going to play with this weekend.

The car felt very good even in the damp conditions. Im still to get a new set of yellows on it and see what it can do:lol:




One tip. Leave the tamiya at home, thats the reason why i sold my bj4, i knew i could get it out and be fairly quick with it, but it meant i would never of given the aero the time. I`m glad i did now its very nice once sorted.

[Northy]

Mr Aero himself bought some 'whities' at the weekend for the team cars :thumbsup:

Dave, I'll get your order to you ASAP :D

G

[Lee]

I should be on commission :lol:

[spenner]

Setup from Kiddie:

Front...

Inner ball stud on hub outer/top shock tower.
Blue spring (Aero) 35wt 56 piston. Aero shock bottoms and collars.
Inner on wishbone and inner on shock tower (Shock).

Rear...
Inner link on shock tower 4mm from bottom.
2 spacers for kick up.
Short wheelbase on hub, medium or 1 spacer in front 2 behind.
Green springs, 30wt 556 piston. Assoc shock bottom (cut) Aero collars.
middle shock tower and middle on wishbone.

Speed Passion 5.5 V2 middle timing.
Raceplace Matched EnerG 4600 Cells
Tekin R1 Pro

Car was really good all day and was capable of putting in some good laps even with the hard tyres upfront!!!
Was twice close too 13 lap pace with one ruined by my own individual errors and the other just bad luck... Marshalls foot in the way and then trying to make love with Tom C's X5 under the rostrum!!!

Must say the car is getting quicker every run and once the right setup is there it will be awesome...
More testing over the next two weeks....

[Cockerill]

Marshalls foot in the way and then trying to make love with Tom C's X5 under the rostrum!!!

Sorry about that John, I was trying to get out the way :(

[KevLee]

Setup from Kiddie:

Front...

Blue spring (Aero) 35wt 55 piston. Aero shock bottoms and collars.


56 piston!! i know coz i drilled them! :lol:

[spenner]

Sorry about that John, I was trying to get out the way :(

It's cool...

If that bath tub your driving wasn't so wide i would have been ok... :) The car just rested on top!!!! (Slim is the future)

[spenner]

56 piston!! i know coz i drilled them! :lol:


Get back to work...

[DaveG28]

So how did everyone setup for Oswestry, and any tips etc on the car?

I'm having a mare with it right now to be honest, so would like to glean as much info as possible to try and improve where I am with it! I can see it can be quick, as Kev showed being in the A (well done Kev!), so not slagging off the car just my understanding of it, but at the moment I am still @20 places lower with mine than when I run other cars.

How did you find it Jimmy, could see various coloured springs on it at different points, did you find a good setup?

[KevLee]

So how did everyone setup for Oswestry, and any tips etc on the car?

I'm having a mare with it right now to be honest, so would like to glean as much info as possible to try and improve where I am with it! I can see it can be quick, as Kev showed being in the A (well done Kev!), so not slagging off the car just my understanding of it, but at the moment I am still @20 places lower with mine than when I run other cars.

How did you find it Jimmy, could see various coloured springs on it at different points, did you find a good setup?

Hi Dave,
The biggest improvement i have made recently has been wheelbase. I have been running mine recenlty on the shortest wheelsbase (inboard and out). I've also found filling the chassis pocket behind the cells with 20gramms of lead a really helps in calming the rear end down. i also run the cells as far back in the chassis as i can.

I have been really happy with the car the last few weeks and it keeps getting better.

Let us know what your problems were and maybe we can help?

This is how i ended up today:-

Front:
40wt oil
56 holes
green losi spring
outside on wishbone
inside on tower
long link on tower in extra drilled hole 1.8mm lower than top
short on hub - no spacer

Rear
3 washers behind wishbone
hub forward
middle link on hub
middle on tower
middle on wishbone
outer link on tower - just below half way in slot
2 1.5mm washer under antisquat plate
566 holes
35wt
red losi spring
cut down camber link ballcup for extra droop

20 gramms lead in rear pocket
inside and outside spikes cut off front
5.5 sintered on 21/84

[jimmy]

I don't have the time to really do loads - not if I want to take a single photo, so I wanted to do as little as possible. I should keep my thoughts for the review really but hey!
practice at oswestry was the first time I drove it, I didn't thread lock a screw and it fell out. The first run was marred with the steering link (from the servo horn) again falling apart because I didn't build it properly (only 2 threads inside one of the rod ends).
Anyway I noticed in practice the rear was loose under power, so Bob suggested putting in some more rear ride height and more antisquat. The car felt better but still wasn't 'right' and I tried some softer (losi) springs which again made things a bit better but the car still felt only OK. I could get it round without too many problems really but it didn't feel dialled.
I knew it needed a one way for that track and for my style of driving so I borrowed a one way off Stu Hurley (and still have it, oops! - see you next weekend bud) and the car was great. I didn't take all the advice from Kev because the car was already very good and I didn't want to mess with it so I left it pretty much as I already had it.

I think I went something like 100+ 90+ and 80+ in rounds 1-2-3, then 56th in round 4 with a couple of silly errors - so I could have done a lot better had I got the car to that point sooner I think. In the final I started 10th and got to third, but then the excitement got to me and I couldn't catch the leaders! :lol:

Anyway, I've got reports (race and review) to write, but its fair to sum it up by saying I wasn't over the moon early in the day - but to be honest I'd never driven it before and after building it I knew the setup would need tweaking a fair bit to get the best out of the car. By the end of the day I was really very pleased with it, I couldn't stop smiling in fact.

The 'setup' I was running by the end was a mish mash of what I've got off Lee, Kev and Bob

front
55 piston holes
losi green spring
camber/ long upper hole on the inside - inside on hub
35wt AE oil

rear
556 piston holes (two 55, one 56 - I think haha)
Losi red spring
30wt kit oil
Camber / middle on hub - long on tower, about 1mm above fouling on outdrives (I have old style rear tower with slots, not holes)
2 x 1.5mm washers under the front brace to give more antisquat.
cut down AE ball cup for more droop

Nortech Whities in the shocks all round - this made a HUGE difference!

6.5 bonded on 17/81 - front outside spikes cut off

rest is as per kit settings.

[DaveG28]

Hi Kev,

Are you running a one way too, I've noticed a few of the guys running it are at the moment?

[Lee]

I think everyone runs a 1 way dave, i have tried a diff but the car just feels better with a 1 way

[DaveG28]

Ah, I'm all diffed up still, is it a B44 one way that fits?

Also, are you all running a kit diff in the back or ones without the rubbery ring inside the gear?

[KevLee]

Ah, I'm all diffed up still, is it a B44 one way that fits?

Also, are you all running a kit diff in the back or ones without the rubbery ring inside the gear?

I'm running a one-way but i think its personal preference, i'm always faster with a one-way so would pretty much never take it out. Its the NTC3 one that fits, but Aero have one on the way i believe

If you are running the kit diff, thin the yellow spacer down, but when its time for replacement get the small hole gear.

[jimmy]

Some people like a front diff, and it's probably good for downsloping jumps on a big jumpy track - but I just don't like it & find I have to drive super agressive just to get round the track. With the one way diff it just goes around without hassle. I always run a one way in my cars, so it wasn't a big surprise when the car was transformed (for me) when I added one.

[DaveG28]

I'm going to change the diff bits now, got a major rebuild on anyway so will put the different gears on.

With a one way I ran one all last year in my 501x as it transformed the car, but when I got the worlds edition just found I didn't need a one way to make it aggressive enough.

I'll post my setup tonight, in terms of observations yesterday though:

1. My biggest problem was landing it from the jumps, I like to land front wheels first but whenever I did this in the Aero it dug in and flipped. Forced back to the Tamiya for round 3 onwards (due to breakage) I found it way more consistent on the jumps. However, think my Aero rideheight was lower than Kev's or Jimmy's so maybe that was part of it

2. Tamiya was sharper steering (which really surprised me!), maybe a one way will help?

I think what depressed me was when I had to go back to the Tamiya due to a major breakage I immediately had better round scores, was hoping I'd have got more of a handle on the Aero by now!

Mine still felt worse on bumps than a lot of the others I saw by the way, how many of you are running whities but original length cartridge spacers, and how many of you have made both changes?

[Lee]

You have to make all the changes that have been suggested previously dave, they are all there for a reason and they all add up to make the car better, there is no point in doing bits and bobs:)

[jimmy]

I still have original length spacers yeah. I think the bump handling is just down to the setup and getting something that works - it's still got a little way to go I think.
I also 'dug in' landng the triple and once over the table top.. I was told that changing to button head screws would solve this - but I think Aero are working on a bumper also to make it slide instead of dig. I ended up always landing the triple flat to stop it happening.. the table top I was usually down sloping tho.

I've not raced the World Tamiya but you're right the one way transformed the original car and made it come alive, I think the same is true for the Aero if you like that style of driving. It rotated thru the corners much more smoothly and predictably by the end of the day.

[stegger]

I don't know if anybody else noticed on there cars, but on lee's car the rear diff outdrives were SCORCIO hot after a run:cry: Drive train was running free:confused: on the way home the only thing i could think of that it maybe is maybe the outdrive was slipping in the outdrive bearing???

[jimmy]

maybe the rear diff / diff rings were slipping? not sure how you'd get them that hot? come on Lee, explain! :lol:

[stegger]

Jim No the diff was rebuilt and was the same afterwards, crown gear was intact;)

[DaveG28]

You have to make all the changes that have been suggested previously dave, they are all there for a reason and they all add up to make the car better, there is no point in doing bits and bobs:)

I've drilled the pistons, shortened the spacers and put whities in, I wasn't aware of anything else which affected the suspension? Looks like droop/antisquat may be better changing too now though from Kev's/Jimmy's posts. The reason I asked on the spacers is I got told yesterday Kev is running full length spacers! Plus Jimmy is too from the below!

[KevLee]

I've drilled the pistons, shortened the spacers and put whities in, I wasn't aware of anything else which affected the suspension? Looks like droop/antisquat may be better changing too now though from Kev's/Jimmy's posts. The reason I asked on the spacers is I got told yesterday Kev is running full length spacers! Plus Jimmy is too from the below!

I'm actually running a thinner washer on top of the assembly though.

One thing you have to be careful of is not tightenning the lock nut up full on the towers. The plastic inserts are designed to rotate on the srew rather than the shock so it wears the cheap screw out first. If you tighten the nut up it with bind, i noticed a car had that problem on saturday (won't say who though :p)

Its worth checking the droop, i can measure what i'm running if it helps? The longer balljoints are a must on the back in my opinion (on most of our tracks) if you run the middle wishbone hole.

If you are at Taly and want me to have a look on the saturday come and find me

[jimmy]

I hope it wasn't mine! :lol: I noticed the nuts can totally bind the suspension up - so just back them off until you get a tiny ammount of play so the shocks can rotate freely. It's somethign a lot of people over look on most cars and can make the car surprisingly naff.

[KevLee]

I hope it wasn't mine! :lol: I noticed the nuts can totally bind the suspension up - so just back them off until you get a tiny ammount of play so the shocks can rotate freely. It's somethign a lot of people over look on most cars and can make the car surprisingly naff.

No, not yours:). It is something thats easy to get wrong on most cars, but in this case the insert is supposed to rotate on the screw so it doesn't wear the shock bodies out.

[DaveG28]

I had that problem when I first had the Tam (from overtightening it) so am careful not to bind the Aero ones! Might try a little looser again though.

If you could measure the rear ball ends that would be great, I can cut down some Aero ones to fit it or use AE ones if the balls the right size? I've had a right old time trying to find correct spare ball ends!!

[Lee]

Schumacher ones fit no problem, AE ball cups will also fit just fine.

[jimmy]

I used AE.. I managed to break (well, bend) one of the camber link ball cups from a big crash off the table top, I replaced these with Losi grey ball cups since that's all I had. Hot Bodies will also work.

[DaveG28]

I did the front camberlinks too! So far I have corally/academy/HPI cups, all saying 4.3mm, all in reality different sizes to each other!

[DaveG28]

OK,

my setup at the moment:

Shocks: Whities, spacer shortened from 6mm (my micrometer says anyway :p) to 5.6mm, blue front springs, red rear, pistons 56front 55rear. Standard ball cups/outer spacers etc. Running kit 30wt oil at the moment.

Wheelbase: one spacer at the rear of the front arms, one at the rear of the rear arms (with 2 at the front of the rear :lol:) I think thats as per kit!

Front:
Camber link on upper outer inside link
camber link far out and high on the c hub (not sure how I'd adjust the outside one, another ball stud further in?)
Shocks mounted inner hole at the top, outer hole at the bottom.

Rear:
Inner camber link on the inner slider, maybe a couple of mill from the bottom (similar to kit's picture)
outer on the middle hole of the hub
no rear toe in as per kit
Single washer under front brace for anti squat as per kit.
Shocks mounted middle holes top and bottom


Drivetrain:
Standard kit all round (not sanded down the rubbery diff things etc, not running one way). Standard spur with (I think) 17t pinion, running LRP sintered (13.something mill, 5.5 equivalent?), LRP touring Sphere ESC.

Using the KO low profile servo.


Any help much appreciated guys (already some good pointers on here), I can do as many changes as I like before I next run, as I am making a chassis change anyway!

One other question, build question really, is anyone else having to file down the rear gearbox cases to mount the rear shock tower? I have the round off the square shape of the casing where the bottom of the tower goes?

Dave

[DaveG28]

I'm running a one-way but i think its personal preference, i'm always faster with a one-way so would pretty much never take it out. Its the NTC3 one that fits, but Aero have one on the way i believe

If you are running the kit diff, thin the yellow spacer down, but when its time for replacement get the small hole gear.

Hi Kev, is that part number ASC1728?

[jimmy]

Dave, the rear tower fitting is fixed on the latest version of the shock tower - not much comfort of course, but thought I'd mention it. You can file the tower or the greabox, I filed the gearbox top like you did, so yes it's normal and really only needs a little off the very corner.

The diffs, well, I thought they might be a little less extreme than they were, but I just found them far too tight when built as kit. AERO have changed this part now to a normal style pulley, so I guess they saw the light also. It's best to take a fair bit off this spacer to ensure it doesn't cause friction. I just laid it on some sand paper and went for it.

[DaveG28]

If/When raceplace get the new tower in I'll get one, not had any problems with the kit version but am convinced I'll screw up those sliders and make them uneven, fixed holes sounds easier to me!!

Gearbox casing filig is no biggy, certainly didn't seem to weaken it in any way!

[jimmy]

haha agreed on the camber slots - maybe ok for someone who pays attention, but it's not designed for people like me. :lol:

[KevLee]

Hi Kev, is that part number ASC1728?




Yep, thats the one

[KevLee]

OK,

my setup at the moment:

Shocks: Whities, spacer shortened from 6mm (my micrometer says anyway :p) to 5.6mm, blue front springs, red rear, pistons 56front 55rear. Standard ball cups/outer spacers etc. Running kit 30wt oil at the moment.

Wheelbase: one spacer at the rear of the front arms, one at the rear of the rear arms (with 2 at the front of the rear :lol:) I think thats as per kit!

Front:
Camber link on upper outer inside link
camber link far out and high on the c hub (not sure how I'd adjust the outside one, another ball stud further in?)
Shocks mounted inner hole at the top, outer hole at the bottom.

Rear:
Inner camber link on the inner slider, maybe a couple of mill from the bottom (similar to kit's picture)
outer on the middle hole of the hub
no rear toe in as per kit
Single washer under front brace for anti squat as per kit.
Shocks mounted middle holes top and bottom


Drivetrain:
Standard kit all round (not sanded down the rubbery diff things etc, not running one way). Standard spur with (I think) 17t pinion, running LRP sintered (13.something mill, 5.5 equivalent?), LRP touring Sphere ESC.

Using the KO low profile servo.


Any help much appreciated guys (already some good pointers on here), I can do as many changes as I like before I next run, as I am making a chassis change anyway!

One other question, build question really, is anyone else having to file down the rear gearbox cases to mount the rear shock tower? I have the round off the square shape of the casing where the bottom of the tower goes?

Dave

Dave,

Try my setup from Oz on the previous page, i've run it like that for the last few weeks on wet slippy astro, dry grippy bumpy astro, and grass and its been ace. I've only just had to change very small things.

There is a hole drilled on top of the hub that you can use to go short on the hub. I found this gave much sharper turn in and didn't "hang on" so long coming out the turn.

55 piston in the back may not have enough pack, i'm running 2 drilled at 56 and 1 at 55 with 35 wt oil.

Also you may be a little undergeared, i was running 21/84 on sunday with a 5.5 14mm sintered. Remember it has the same internal gear ratio as a B44/BJ4 (2.5:1) so you can alway see what those guys are running on any particular track to get an idea.

hope that helps

[jimmy]

Raced the Aero today at southport - started with the setup I finished with at Oswestry. The car was great at oswestry but pants at southport. The grip levels were really high (in areas) and the car was really hard to drive.

I ended up on the same setup as oswestry (posted earlier) with the following changes:

wishbones spaced forward (three white spacers behind)
front shock ball cups unwound about 3 turns to give more droop
40wt oil in the front with kit orange springs
Shocks laid down on the inside hole on the rear tower, and a NEW hole drilled further in on the front tower.*

Thanks to Jim Dixon for his help


The car was awesome, I qualified 6th in the A final - mainly due to the car being hard to drive during qualifying but getting better each round.. Anyway, got up to 2nd, got into first and my nerves went & I was shaking too much to drive so ended up second. The car was really good and easy to drive hard in the final - I still think the setup has a long way to go yet but it's gone really well so far and responds well to the changes we've made.


*The inside hole on the standard tower still leaves the front shocks quite upright - the car felt very edgy and laying the shocks down was what I wanted to do all day. I only got the tower drilled just before the final so had a few laps after qualifying and it was a massive difference, all the other changes were good but laying the shocks down was the thing that helped the most and transformed the car.

[ben]

Jim dixon........ elvo to be :lol:

Glad you got the car running good jimmy

[PaulRotheram]

Pictures of the shell jimmy man! it's ace!

[jimmy]

LOL you just want me to look like a fool!


http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/misc/aerocoke.jpg

The proper shell is behind but I'd not finished it in time....... so had to improvise. Thanks to Northy for downing his coke quickly so I could race.

[ben]

haha i had to do that with my S4. Lightweight. Thats were the speed came from. :lol:

[DaveG28]

Hi Jimmy,

With unwinding the shock ball cups, is that the kit ones or have you put longer ball cups on with more threaded area?

[jimmy]

thats the kit ones on the front, there's still plenty of thread in the rod, but a little (3 turns) makes a good difference to the droop.

[DaveG28]

Think I'd be able to get enough at the back by doing the same?

Don't want to cut down longer cups because I struggle to cut them straight!

[jimmy]

well it doesn't matter if they are that straight or not, just as long as the lengths are the same when installed - just put the shocks side by side, or even lift the rear up and lower it down to see if one wheel touches first...
But yeah, I'm sure you can do the same on the back to get a little extra droop.

[DaveG28]

Think I'd be able to get enough at the back by doing the same?

Don't want to cut down longer cups because I struggle to cut them straight!

[Lee]

well it doesn't matter if they are that straight or not, just as long as the lengths are the same when installed - just put the shocks side by side, or even lift the rear up and lower it down to see if one wheel touches first...
But yeah, I'm sure you can do the same on the back to get a little extra droop.


:lol::lol::lol:

[jimmy]

:eh?:

[DaveG28]

Oops, posting from an iPhone thingammy and it went AWOL and lost the server when I hit submit, so I sent again! Must have been a quick reply Jimmy to beat the second time I sent it!

Soz guys...

[DaveG28]

I'm actually running a thinner washer on top of the assembly though.

One thing you have to be careful of is not tightenning the lock nut up full on the towers. The plastic inserts are designed to rotate on the srew rather than the shock so it wears the cheap screw out first. If you tighten the nut up it with bind, i noticed a car had that problem on saturday (won't say who though :p)

Its worth checking the droop, i can measure what i'm running if it helps? The longer balljoints are a must on the back in my opinion (on most of our tracks) if you run the middle wishbone hole.

If you are at Taly and want me to have a look on the saturday come and find me

That'd be great thanks Kev, with it being a long run I'll probably aim to get to Taly before the end of Saturday. I don't suppose you have a slipper tool I could use also could you? I tend to run slippers virtually locked (and very tight diffs too) as I like to kick the back end accelerating, but I am not convinced my way is best on that!

Thanks,

Dave

[KevLee]

That'd be great thanks Kev, with it being a long run I'll probably aim to get to Taly before the end of Saturday. I don't suppose you have a slipper tool I could use also could you? I tend to run slippers virtually locked (and very tight diffs too) as I like to kick the back end accelerating, but I am not convinced my way is best on that!

Thanks,

Dave

No problem, we can set your slipper on the scales aswell. Just pop over and we'll have a look:)

[Wraggy]

No problem, we can set your slipper on the scales aswell. Just pop over and we'll have a look:)
Kev how accurate do you find the scale's setup ?? and does it work for any slipper on there ?

[KevLee]

Kev how accurate do you find the scale's setup ?? and does it work for any slipper on there ?

Its very good as long as you do it right, its great at setting the slipper after a rebuild, and adjusting it in sensible amounts rather than just guessing or going by feel. It should work on any slipper of that type as long as the driveshaft on my assembly fits the outdive of the diff.

[DaveG28]

Jimmy,

Are you still using just whities but no spacer adjustments in the cartridges? I can't find any great replacements for the kit spacers inside the cartridges so am tempted to run "as standard" except for whities instead of red orings!

[Lee]

Just file a bit off the middle spacer, its pretty easy:confused:

[DaveG28]

Filing it is easy, getting it near flat isn't, at least not with my tools/lack of skills!

[KevLee]

Dave, we can have a look at that aswell on saturday if you want, just bring it over.

[jimmy]

I just replaced with the whities from nortech, and the shocks are fine. The two times I've raced the car it's been really very good indeed once a setup has been found. Both times I've only got the car really nice by either the last qualifier or the final - and I just missed out on winning the last regional with it so safe to say I'm happy. I think filing the spacers down a little in my shocks would be a good idea - but they are fine from what I can tell.

I'm not racing this coming weekend but Jim Dixon will be racing the review Aero and I'm sure he's going to like it! :thumbsup: We'll get his thoughts (and of course mine from when I've raced it) in the review soon.

[V-Rossi]

And when can we expect this piece of literature? :lol: I can't wait till your review is finished:woot:

[jimmy]

finishing off the Xray 808 build at the moment so once that's out of the way I'll finish it up next week hopefully :woot:

[Ron Burgundy]

hey guys, looking at the aero just have a few questions maybe you can help me with. cant find the answers anywhere really and sorta get the idea of others. So here goes;

DO losi/associated rims fit the a-one?

Spares? are there any to speak of?

Shocks, it seems like there is some trouble, whats the go?

Fit of parts etc and slipper/diffs, whats the tricks ?

The biggest Q of all, should we wait until they iron out a lot of probs before purchasing one? I kind of expect a skewed answer here but be as honest as you can, if you can. If anyone wants to PM me feel free, as I would like to get one or a couple but live absolutely nowhere near europe so spares and probs are an issue.

[redscott]

I was wondering has anyone tried using associated or losi shocks. the car is cool on small minor jumps ans straights but, stiff and poor on large jumps.
I've gone from 40wt 2 30wt oil n the front using orange springs. n the rear I've gone from 40wt 2 25wt oil using pink springs. not sure what pistons im using. I left the piston alone since I know david gibson already did some of the shock mods that have been recommended on. just looking 4 options. by way thanks 4 all the servo help.

[maxoo]

What was the setup of Martin Lee or Bob Claes last year at Kampenhout for the Belgium GP??

[DaveG28]

I was wondering has anyone tried using associated or losi shocks. the car is cool on small minor jumps ans straights but, stiff and poor on large jumps.
I've gone from 40wt 2 30wt oil n the front using orange springs. n the rear I've gone from 40wt 2 25wt oil using pink springs. not sure what pistons im using. I left the piston alone since I know david gibson already did some of the shock mods that have been recommended on. just looking 4 options. by way thanks 4 all the servo help.

Hi again mate, the pistons were at .052" in all holes as far as I can remember, also had the better orings and thinner middle spacer in there!

Someone told me Lee used Losi Shocks last year, not sure if anyone else can verfy that? Both Losi and Associated should work though, just need the right spacing at the top to make sure the shocks sit at the right angle!

[DaveG28]

hey guys, looking at the aero just have a few questions maybe you can help me with. cant find the answers anywhere really and sorta get the idea of others. So here goes;

DO losi/associated rims fit the a-one?

Spares? are there any to speak of?

Shocks, it seems like there is some trouble, whats the go?

Fit of parts etc and slipper/diffs, whats the tricks ?

The biggest Q of all, should we wait until they iron out a lot of probs before purchasing one? I kind of expect a skewed answer here but be as honest as you can, if you can. If anyone wants to PM me feel free, as I would like to get one or a couple but live absolutely nowhere near europe so spares and probs are an issue.

Hi there,

Losi rims definitely fit, not sure about associated.

Think spares are fine now, in the UK theraceplace stock them (do you guys ship abroad?) but also the Aero website webshop is now open too, so maybe email them and see what shipping to your country is like?

In terms of tricks etc, only ones I know of are on this forum, but others may enlighten you better! Kevin Lee is going well with the car ( making A finals in the UK nationals) so I'd check out his setups/suggestions on here!

As for the "big" question, from my experience I'd say it depends how much "tweaking" your happy doing on a car. Compared to, say, the Tamiya 501x, I built that from kit and have never even changed the setup, and it just works quite well everywhere. Thats not true if you do the same with the Aero, however if you make the shock mods, do the little construction tweaks like filing the rear gearbox cover to get the shocktower to fit, and maybe follow Kevin Lees setup suggestions (weight in the rear, short wheelbase etc) then I'd guess its already a very good car, and those adjustments are much less than needed on some other kits to make them work!

PS I think the reason for the slow responses from everyone is that we've all been at the latest UK national!

[KevLee]

hey guys, looking at the aero just have a few questions maybe you can help me with. cant find the answers anywhere really and sorta get the idea of others. So here goes;

DO losi/associated rims fit the a-one?

Spares? are there any to speak of?

Shocks, it seems like there is some trouble, whats the go?

Fit of parts etc and slipper/diffs, whats the tricks ?

The biggest Q of all, should we wait until they iron out a lot of probs before purchasing one? I kind of expect a skewed answer here but be as honest as you can, if you can. If anyone wants to PM me feel free, as I would like to get one or a couple but live absolutely nowhere near europe so spares and probs are an issue.

Hi,

Losi rears are identical fitment and offset so you can use Aero/Losi/Associated rear wheels. On the front aero have slightly shorter wishbones and more offset on the wheel so Losi front wheels will fit but will give a slightly narrower car.

Spares are available in the UK from the raceplace.co.uk or direct from the Aero site, i'm sure either could get them to you somehow.

the shocks are very good, they are just improved by having the seals replaced (i'd recommend the Nortec whiteys) and that frees them up, Aero are looking at this for the future though. You also will need to drill the pistons as they come with a pilot hole, but again Aero are working on a range of pistons.

The fit and finish is very good and the car is simple to build and work on.

The main problem with the first release was the plastic (at cold temps) but that was resolved quickly and people who already had purchased the car got replacement parts. The car is extremely strong now so you can be sure of that.

I hope that helps

[KevLee]

I was wondering has anyone tried using associated or losi shocks. the car is cool on small minor jumps ans straights but, stiff and poor on large jumps.
I've gone from 40wt 2 30wt oil n the front using orange springs. n the rear I've gone from 40wt 2 25wt oil using pink springs. not sure what pistons im using. I left the piston alone since I know david gibson already did some of the shock mods that have been recommended on. just looking 4 options. by way thanks 4 all the servo help.

Can you tell me what pistons hole sizes you have in there and also can you confirm the seals have been changed?

[KevLee]

Hi again mate, the pistons were at .052" in all holes as far as I can remember, also had the better orings and thinner middle spacer in there!

Someone told me Lee used Losi Shocks last year, not sure if anyone else can verfy that? Both Losi and Associated should work though, just need the right spacing at the top to make sure the shocks sit at the right angle!

Sorry just read this :). I think that may be a little soft on the piston. I'm running 56 holes in the front (1.18mm or .0465") and in the back two holes drilled to 56 and one to 55 (1.32mm .0520"). Yesterday i ended up on 32.5wt in the front and 25 in the back.

Lee did run Losi shocks last year but only because the Aero shocks wern't available back then. they are a similar shock to Losi but slighlty bigger diameter.

[redscott]

after driving my s4 and testing the aero with associated shocks and springs I desided 2 take the losi shocks off my s4 4 a minute and try them on the aero. all I can say is losi r the kings n the r/c shock game. the car now handles like a completely different monster. now I have 2 wait till this weekend 2 give it a better and more definded test.
Thanx 4 all u guys help. i will post an update later this week. please feel free 2 post any more tip 4 this will b my first weekend racing the aero A1. last was just getting a feel 4 the car on the track.

[Ron Burgundy]

Hi,

Losi rears are identical fitment and offset so you can use Aero/Losi/Associated rear wheels. On the front aero have slightly shorter wishbones and more offset on the wheel so Losi front wheels will fit but will give a slightly narrower car.

Spares are available in the UK from the raceplace.co.uk or direct from the Aero site, i'm sure either could get them to you somehow.

the shocks are very good, they are just improved by having the seals replaced (i'd recommend the Nortec whiteys) and that frees them up, Aero are looking at this for the future though. You also will need to drill the pistons as they come with a pilot hole, but again Aero are working on a range of pistons.

The fit and finish is very good and the car is simple to build and work on.

The main problem with the first release was the plastic (at cold temps) but that was resolved quickly and people who already had purchased the car got replacement parts. The car is extremely strong now so you can be sure of that.

I hope that helps

Thanks guys, appreciate the honest feedback, as it is a fairly good wack of money compared to others (US prices) and it is a great design.

Will go ahead with it and hopefully let you know of its success. Thanks guys again!

[DaveG28]

About to put the one way in the front, can anyone running it remember how they shimmed it? The bit of paper with it gives shim positions for the ntc3 and b44.

I'm still new to this shaft drive lark so worried I'll screw it up!

[DaveG28]

Has anyone found a trick to reduce the bump steer on the Aero? Noticed how bad it was when I tried to set the front toe!

[KevLee]

Has anyone found a trick to reduce the bump steer on the Aero? Noticed how bad it was when I tried to set the front toe!

You can take some material off the steering link to lower the balljoint (at the wheel end), thats what i've done. If you look at the plastic arm you'll see a moulding seam, dremel/file down to that line and it should be about right. Leave a nice radius to make sure you don't raise a stress line.

[DaveG28]

Thanks, I'll try that!

Would it throw it way out to run the ball stud off the bottom of the link instead of the top?

[jimmy]

yeah it would.
I eliminated the bump steer and it looks better than factory! :thumbsup:

I used Black AE B44 ball studs - these are lower than kit items so lower the height.. these on their own are direct replacements (use an imperial thread so you need an imperial nut on the link) and reduce bump steer. To get rid of the remaining bump steer I used a woodwork drill bit - the sort with a centre spike.
The spike sits in the hole on the steering knuckle and you slowly drill down until the main body of the drill bit starts carving out a perfect hole in the steering knuckle. Of course I used a drill bit which was identical diameter to the shoulder of the B44 ball stud.
My B44 ball studs now sit flush with the top of the steering knuckle and have material all round the stud to support it. Super neat and works perfectly.:thumbsup::thumbsup:


sorry, I am really proud of my handywork! :lol:

[elvo]

Has anyone found a trick to reduce the bump steer on the Aero? Noticed how bad it was when I tried to set the front toe!


yes. Assemble the steering the way it was on the Durango. Not sure if I can remember it off the top of my head, but the steering rack goes on whatever side it's not on now, and the ball studs go on the other side of the rack as well. Bump steer is as good as gone.

There are probably pics of a durango on here....

[KevLee]

yes. Assemble the steering the way it was on the Durango. Not sure if I can remember it off the top of my head, but the steering rack goes on whatever side it's not on now, and the ball studs go on the other side of the rack as well. Bump steer is as good as gone.

There are probably pics of a durango on here....

you can indeed do it that way but then you have to add washers under the outer link and the ballcup can catch on the wheel. I tried it that way first.

Jimmy is basically doing the same as me, i also used some short neck ballstuds. Its more than strong enough which ever way you do it so i'd just attack it with a dremmel :thumbsup:

[DaveG28]

Cheers for the tips guys, had noticed the stud sits high, may try a tamiya replacement as I already have them!

Struggled again last weekend but have another 3 straight weekends running it now, so thinking Losi shocks and reduced bump steer for this weekend and go from there!

[spenner]

Having run the Losi shocks on the Aero for the first couple of weeks i think you will find the car much harder to set up.
The shocks will require totally different setting to any other car, as the weight in the Aero is very central. This means the car feels very soft..

With the current settings on the Aero shocks you shouldn't have any problems.
One thing to remember is to not lock the nut up fully on the shock as this will cause the shocks to rebound very slow.

If you are finding the car unstable on the rear then try moving to longer wheel base.
Another thing is to make sure you check your slipper as this can work loose over time and will effect the car drasticly..

[DaveG28]

Well, I'm using whities, have added droop to the rear (as much as possible without driveshafts popping), and using 56 size holes in the pistons with 30wt oil all round and blue front/red rear springs. Basically the car jumps fine and is also ok at single bumps, but is horrible where there is a rough surface and turns. I was running at Bury and if I tried to be at all aggressive it would start to bounce around then fire off into a series of barrel roles. My 501x was less settled in a straight line but way better on bumpy turns.

I want to try and reduce the bump steer as I'm guessing this may be the problem from the above symptoms, but other ideas much appreciated!

[spenner]

Im guessing you are running 56 drilled piston's ??
i would try 35 wt in the back, as it sounds to soft which is causing you to bounce around. In the front again i would go up and try 40 wt with the blue spring, this will take away some of the grip which will cause the car to roll easy.
Make sure you are running drive shafts level. middle whole on all wishbones, if you have too much or the front end feels very sharp then move to outside on wishbone.
Inside hole on front shock tower and middle on rear.

Are you using Aero springs or losi ???

[DaveG28]

Aero!

Cheers for the tips!

[spenner]

Try losi red spring on rear and losi green on front.
It will help for now.

[pinoylst]

Hi jimmy and Kev!

Could you guys post pix of the mod you did to remove bump steer?

Many thanks...:)

[KevLee]

Hi jimmy and Kev!

Could you guys post pix of the mod you did to remove bump steer?

Many thanks...:)

Heres a picture of the mod, just dremel to the "seam". Hope this helps

3119

[pinoylst]

Thanks for the tip and pix Kev!!!....I've got some dremeling to do rrrrrrRRRRRRrrrrrRRRRR.....:)

[DaveG28]

Just done mine, think I've been a bit conservative though, still got a fair bit of material above the line and a fair bit of bump steer!! May attacke it again tomorrow night, or may go with it as is for now and adjust during the day on Sunday...

What impact on the rest of the handling would it have to put the spacer above the spindle instead of below (the spacer that seets between the spindle and hub carriers?)??

[jimmy]

nice one kev, I forgot about this - heres a couple of pics of what mine looks like.

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/misc/aeroballs01.jpg
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/misc/aeroballs02.jpg

[DaveG28]

nice one kev, I forgot about this - heres a couple of pics of what mine looks like.

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/misc/aeroballs01.jpg
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/misc/aeroballs02.jpg

Your just showing off cos it looks so smart Jimmy!!

Does look quality though, much better than my efforts!

[jimmy]

lol, true I was showing off :lol:
the drill bit I used was 5mm, which is the same diameter as that shoulder on the B44 ball stud.

[pinoylst]

Ooooo.....Excellent job jimmy!!!! Looks factory finish....you have the right to show it off!!! LOL!!!

[DaveG28]

Made some progress today, the bump steer reduction made it steadier, and also lowered the rideheight to driveshafts level as per Spenners suggestion!

Was getting murderous grip roll, but think that may just be Southport from Jimmy's earlier post, probably needed harder shock oil in the front rather than kit 30wt. Still using Aero springs, might try Losi's next time!

Where is everyone on wheelbase now? I'm rear hubs forward and 2 spacers behind on the inside, so could shorten it by one spacer?

Also, couple of questions, getting strong pull to the right under hard acceleration, is this likely to be the diff, or something in the steering?

Finally, found I had very little steering at high speed, then suddenly sharper as it got slow, is this probably down to bumpsteer still (I had dremelled the spindle, but could still use a lower ballstud design if necessary), or more likely the dampers? Its like below a certain speed it suddenly falls over the outside front wheel!

[spenner]

At the moment i personally have found the car to handle much better with longer wheelbase. I am currently long on the hub and 1 behind on the wishbone.

25 wt in the rear/losi red spring
30 wt in the front/losi green spring

I have also been struggling recently for no real reason, car is quick but very unstable. Having tried different things with Danny Claes and Kev Lee in Turin it was pin pointed to the slipper!!!!

IT IS ESSENTIAL on the Aero the slipper is not too loose or the car will be a real handful...

If the car feels a handful over bumps/jumps, breaks away mid corner or exiting corners under power this could be your problem.
It is very good idea to have a spare slipper.
Current setting for mine is 300 which is pretty tight.

[spenner]

On the inside on the hubs there is small lip that hits the alloy hub carrier at full lock, if you need more steering this can be removed.

[DaveG28]

I need a new slipper, not just spare, mine is really bent for some reason, I must have whacked it on something pre install!

Might ask the Aero guys to bring a complete assembly to Eden, and beg to use one of you guys slipper tools! Having said that, think I'm running it tight not loose at the moment

Fast but unstable is a fair description, I'm having to drive it do much less aggressive than I like, but speed isn't bad with it!

[KevLee]

At the moment i personally have found the car to handle much better with longer wheelbase. I am currently long on the hub and 1 behind on the wishbone.

25 wt in the rear/losi red spring
30 wt in the front/losi green spring

I have also been struggling recently for no real reason, car is quick but very unstable. Having tried different things with Danny Claes and Kev Lee in Turin it was pin pointed to the slipper!!!!

IT IS ESSENTIAL on the Aero the slipper is not too loose or the car will be a real handful...

If the car feels a handful over bumps/jumps, breaks away mid corner or exiting corners under power this could be your problem.
It is very good idea to have a spare slipper.
Current setting for mine is 300 which is pretty tight.

Don't forget that you have inboard toe-in Jon... that knocks about 6mm off you wheelbase. So if you are running 0 deg inboard i'd recomend going as short as possible

Also dave, did you cut anyspikes off your tyres? and are you running a one-way?

[DaveG28]

Hi,

Yeah one way is in, assuming it didn't get broken by my weekend smash (the driveshaft bent at the one way end) and I ended up with inside and outside row cut off the tires on the front, everything left on the back though. I think Southport might be unusual for this, but I could have grip rolled so easily even then!

[jimmy]

lay the shocks down, including a new hole on the front tyre - that made the Aero super stable and easy to drive on a dry southport track.

[DaveG28]

A new hole on the front tyre??:( You mean shock tower yeah?:thumbsup:

Was tempted to try and bodge that together, but it'll be a year before I'm next at Southport outdoor so unless I need the same effect somewhere else will probably leave it as standard!

Going through them at quite a rate mind, 2 meetings (one at Southport/one Bury) and I've done a total of 4 shock towers!! 2 Each end! Had never done one before then!

[Northy]

Why not double them up? :confused:

G

[DaveG28]

Some people do, and I may end up doing, but had never had one fail in the first few meetings of running it so didn't bother! By the time I realised I didn't have enough spare to double up!!

[jimmy]

I'm off my tits! :thumbsup:
yes, front shock tower, lol.

[KevLee]

The reason I asked about the one-way is that it does make the car much twitchier. On high bite astro I cut 2 inside and 2 outside off the front and often the outside on the rear. To be honest I did that most of the time on the xx4 too. You will still get loads of steering but it will stop it grabbing, on grass I generally cut the inside and outside off the front at most.

If you run the diff you can leave a lot more tyre on I found but the one-way is the way to go!

[DaveG28]

I may try mucking about with the tyres at Oswestry this weekend and see how it goes there, not sure though as I am stuck with the bent driveshaft for now, and it may not be pleasant trying to run that!

[KevLee]

I may try mucking about with the tyres at Oswestry this weekend and see how it goes there, not sure though as I am stuck with the bent driveshaft for now, and it may not be pleasant trying to run that!

About that bent driveshaft..... make sure when your front suspension is fully depressed the shaft doesn't bottom out in the outdrive. I have dremelled the ball of the dogbone and elongated the slots in the outdrive. I've also added a couple of washers to stop the shock compressing as much.

Can you not bend it back for the time being?

[DaveG28]

I'll check on whether it bottoms out, that is probably it though as the Oring is well squashed!

have tried straightening it and got it a bit straighter, but can't get it right, my vice is a fancy "soft clamp" type that works great for everything but giving something a whack!

[DaveG28]

Put it all back together and all seems fine with the driveshaft :thumbsup:....

Anyway, reason for post, Tamiya ball studs are also an option for reducing bump steer, I've used some of their low profile types off the touring cars on both ends of the steering links and they sit very low (its the type with no external hex, but where you put the allen key in the centre of the ball, hope that makes sense) and reduce the issue.

I've also taken the spindles right down to the centreline, still seem strong enough as they stayed in one piece when the turnbuckle snapped! :thumbsup:

[pinoylst]

Yes Dave, that makes sense. It's similar to the Yokomo ball stud where you use a 2.0 mm allen driver to put it in. The tamiya ball stud will hold up well.:thumbsup:

[DaveG28]

More good progress today using your ideas guys, thanks :D

Bumpy oswestry track, tried the losi springs as suggested (red rear, green front) and also dropped to 25wt oil in the back (30wt in the front) and it was easily the best its felt! Also took a 2nd row of spikes off the outside of the front tires (plus a row off the inside) and a row of the rear outside too, and it enabled me to drive much more aggressively!

Looking forward to Eden park next week!:D

[KevLee]

More good progress today using your ideas guys, thanks :D

Bumpy oswestry track, tried the losi springs as suggested (red rear, green front) and also dropped to 25wt oil in the back (30wt in the front) and it was easily the best its felt! Also took a 2nd row of spikes off the outside of the front tires (plus a row off the inside) and a row of the rear outside too, and it enabled me to drive much more aggressively!

Looking forward to Eden park next week!:D

Glad it went well ! i generally find i'm on 25-30wt in the rear and 30-35wt up front depending on temperature and track.

[roro78]

Hello Kevin

It is met with the GP of Belgium you my lent your foret.pourait you gave me settings final GP of Belgium and the Championship of Europe 2008
Thank you
roromarie@wanadoo.fr

[KevLee]

Hello Kevin

It is met with the GP of Belgium you my lent your foret.pourait you gave me settings final GP of Belgium and the Championship of Europe 2008
Thank you
roromarie@wanadoo.fr

Hi there!

these are my settings from the GP and Euros.... hope it helps


Front

piston - 667
oil 37.5
spring losi green
short link on hub
long link on tower (with addition hole drilled 1.8mm lower than top hole)
shock - outside on wishbone
shock - inside on tower
wishbones level

Rear

Piston - 556
oil 30
spring - losi white
shock position - middle on wishbone, middle on tower
middle link on hub
short link on tower (1/4 from bottom)
wheelbase - long on hub/ middle on inner pin
2 degree toe in blocks (soon to be released)
Wishbones level
2 x 1.5mm washers under squate plate

Extras
5.5 sintered on 22/87
25gramms of lead in rear pocket
cut down camberlink ballcup on rear shocks for increased droop
front one-way
x-2000s and taper pins

For the Belgium GP it was the same as above but with 32.5 oil front and rear and the front shocks on the inside wishbone hole. I also used cut down losi silver springs on the front. Tyres were yellow mini pins with inner outer row cut off on the rear and 3 inner/ 3 outer on the front.

[roro78]

Thank you is very nice
A tu news on the release date of the new rear refused because sella'm strongly Aero does not respond to mail items that we are that this is normal?:thumbsup:

[sparrow.2]

Thank you is very nice
A tu news on the release date of the new rear refused because sella'm strongly Aero does not respond to mail items that we are that this is normal?:thumbsup:

T'inquiete pas trop, Bob et Danny ont eu beaucoup a faire avant l'euro et avec Kampenhout. J'ai vu les nouvelle piece pour le toe-in et elles sont bien belles! La voiture est apparament beaucoup mieux avec, specifiquement sur la glisse! Sur l'accroche c'est mieux aussi. A Kampenhout la bagnolle de KevLee avez l'aire planté!

[DaveG28]

Hi Sparrow,

Can you translate to English, if it was about the new rear toe in blocks, I wouldn't mind knowing when they're available and have had the same email issues with them?

[sparrow.2]

I was just saying that they probably had a lot to do in the runup to Kampenhout and the euros. The new hub carriers with 2,5° and 4° do a lot for the car's handling, especially on slick tracks.

Kev's car looked really good at the GP!

[DaveG28]

Yeah I'm really looking forward to them coming out, I'm hoping some rear toe in will let me be more aggressive on the throttle in corners!

[roro78]

Oh GP of Belgium had already Kevin's new play, and I can not find it planted

[Diesel]

Hi there,

It is now one month I drive my Aero A-one, it is really nice and fast, i thank you very much for all setup you gave.

At the moment I have a very big problem to have parts.
Last time I have driven on a very treaky track with very big jump. The problem is that lots of chassis have been broken, and mine to! I had an extra one but nearly broke it again !:cry:.

I reenforced rear end with specific parts.

I really tried hard to get a new order, mail (tried all we had in web site , phone, even postal mail nobody answer, it is getting boring...

Any one has a solution for me ? (before selling the car of course)

[spenner]

Email or contact The Raceplace they have stock and should be able to help you.

[Diesel]

Thank you for this information, I will do that if Aero doesnt answer.

[Diesel]

My problem is that quantity in stock says 0 :(

I am obliged to wait Aero to decide answering mails.

[spenner]

Email John at the raceplace direct...

The website crashed a little while ago and hasn't been updated properly since.

He has plenty of Aero spares.... we have also sent Aero a message for you, they was having problems with there server.

[modelimages]

sorry for the website quantity being wrong, i have updated it now and a full update will be done after southport.
john

[Diesel]

Thank you for helping me. :thumbsup:

[roro78]

Hello Kevin
Little you to me given the adjustments which you did have has Talywain? With you of the news for the production of fused back which you had in Belgium?
I will want order a certain number of pair of Aero piston to be able pierced with the diameters losi but it still does not answer the email has you news?
So long
roromarie@wanadoo.fr