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DaveG28
16-03-2008, 05:52 PM
In Bag A (the CVD's), what size hex driver do I need for the little grub screws!?

I can't get my calipers in to check, and neither my imperial or metric drivers go small enough to get them in?

Lee
16-03-2008, 05:58 PM
It is .005"

DaveG28
16-03-2008, 06:43 PM
That small, or 0.05"? I've tried the 0.05" and can't get it to fit, 0.005" may explain!

DaveG28
16-03-2008, 06:47 PM
Actually I am guessing you mean't 0.05, I've looked at a couple of shop sites and can;t find any wrenches smaller than that.

Which means either my grub screws are the wrong size, or the driver I bought is!?

KevLee
16-03-2008, 07:09 PM
They are definately 0.05, make sure the grub screw hex hasn't burred over

good luck

Lee
16-03-2008, 07:38 PM
Sorry dave, yes .05":bored:

DaveG28
16-03-2008, 08:00 PM
Think its the brand new driver I have bought, when I look at it it is wider at the tip than lower down the shaft!

Next question, putting the ball studs for the camber link on the rear shock tower, the instructions just mention the stud and a nut on te other side, but it loks like it might pull out of the carbon in an accident, should I use the 2 spare (there are 4 in the bag, 2 for use on the shock screws) spacers for this or has no-one found a problem with them?

Lee
16-03-2008, 08:40 PM
I havent broken that dave, but i dont see any harm in putting an extra washer on the stud size, i wouldnt put the nut on though as this will move the link backwards and angle it, not sure what it will do but i think a straight link is better.

A washer would provide the same anyway as the stud acts the same as a nut.

DaveG28
16-03-2008, 09:46 PM
Ok, bear with me on this one all, I'm sure its a really stupid question but I have never had dampers before which are filled from the bottom and not the top, so I am not sure how to make sure they are air free?

With others I use you pump the piston up and down before topping off the oil, but presumably I can't do that with these, so do I just brim them before screwing the bottom assembly on?

sparrow.2
16-03-2008, 11:01 PM
Ok, bear with me on this one all, I'm sure its a really stupid question but I have never had dampers before which are filled from the bottom and not the top, so I am not sure how to make sure they are air free?

With others I use you pump the piston up and down before topping off the oil, but presumably I can't do that with these, so do I just brim them before screwing the bottom assembly on?


Push the shock shaft all the way into the cartridge so that the balljoint is at the cartridge. Then plop the extended shaft and piston into the shock body and push it all the way in slowly (ooooer :thumbsup:) Then screw the cartridge into the body slowly and wipe off the excess oil. On Losi shocks you fill the body up to the bottom of the threads before letting the piston sink in.

That does the trick for me and the Aero shocks work pretty much the same.

KevLee
16-03-2008, 11:04 PM
Ok, bear with me on this one all, I'm sure its a really stupid question but I have never had dampers before which are filled from the bottom and not the top, so I am not sure how to make sure they are air free?

With others I use you pump the piston up and down before topping off the oil, but presumably I can't do that with these, so do I just brim them before screwing the bottom assembly on?

Pretty much!


Fill the body up to just above the first thread inside
put the cartridge in and tighten until a couple of threads are left.
push the shock shaft in slowly to the bottom (and let the shock bleed oil)
finally nip up the cartridge
check the balljoint can bottom on the cartridge... if it doesn't loosen the cartdridge and bleed a little more oil.Hope that helps

DaveG28
16-03-2008, 11:13 PM
Great Thanks guys, I like the idea of this way of doing the shocks (plus love the fact that the bottom part is prebuilt) as hopefully one piece will make the top less likely to break!

DaveG28
17-03-2008, 12:03 AM
They are definately 0.05, make sure the grub screw hex hasn't burred over

good luck

If they have will I need to file out the hex?

Do any other makes use 0.05" grub screws of the same type by the way, I normally like to get spares for little bits like that?

KevLee
17-03-2008, 09:08 AM
If they have will I need to file out the hex?

Do any other makes use 0.05" grub screws of the same type by the way, I normally like to get spares for little bits like that?

you can have a go but they are so small you may struggle. I'm not sure why your driver doesn't fit, i've never had a problem with them. sometimes they are a little tight but thats a good thing as they are so small you want a good fit.

They are the same size as used in any car that uses MIP CVDs (associated, losi etc) but Aero will have bits like that available now, if not very soon.

DaveG28
17-03-2008, 08:57 PM
Finally got the cvd's together by literally pushing a second 0.05" tool onto the grub screws :mad:. However, one of them spat my tool out first time I tried it and by then the thread lock had been on about 10 mins, anyone know how quickly it stops being effective, I don't want to lose a pin!?

Also, what are the cvd's made of? Had to really push on them to get the tool in the screw, worried I may have bent them?

If that sounds a stupid question my Tam tourer has aluminium driveshafts, and they bend all the time!!


Finally, for replacements, anyone reckon "ASC7381 CVD Rebuild Kit:T3,T4,TC4" will do the trick? If so I can get some from Losi parts house!? In fact does anyone know if these parts are the same for the cvd and axle too as on the T3?

maxoo
18-03-2008, 08:40 AM
I look for the manual of the Aero A-one...
Someone have this?

maxoo20@hotmail.com

thanks !!

DaveG28
18-03-2008, 07:37 PM
I look for the manual of the Aero A-one...
Someone have this?

maxoo20@hotmail.com

thanks !!

Hi Maxoo,

I can't get to mine till the weekend, but can scan it in then and send it?

Cooper
18-03-2008, 08:29 PM
Also, what are the cvd's made of? Had to really push on them to get the tool in the screw, worried I may have bent them?


I think titanium, thought I read it somewhere

maxoo
18-03-2008, 09:07 PM
Hi Maxoo,

I can't get to mine till the weekend, but can scan it in then and send it?

perfect !!!

big thanks !!!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

DaveG28
20-03-2008, 04:17 PM
Is there any way of getting air into the esc/motor?

I'm not sure of the rules, would airholes on the top of the sidepods be ok?

Lee
20-03-2008, 08:30 PM
Dave the front of the shell has a gap all the way round it, i think this will allow a fair bit of air through.

Also where the steering linkage goes, you can cut this back further if you want too. I cant see there being any problem with thermalling, i havent come accross any problems.

I think you can drill some holes above the fan for the brca meetings but if you are doing euros etc you will get ur wrist slapped:cry:

DaveG28
22-03-2008, 08:11 PM
Right, I am obviously being an idiot with the slipper, but...

How on earth do I tighten/loosen it!?!? I can't get to the nut once its in the slipper in order to grip it so I can either tighten or loosen the slipper clutch!!

Do the instructions show the wrong nut, or is there some tool in the kit I can use to grip the nut??

stuhurley
22-03-2008, 08:14 PM
Right, I am obviously being an idiot with the slipper, but...

How on earth do I tighten/loosen it!?!? I can't get to the nut once its in the slipper in order to grip it so I can either tighten or loosen the slipper clutch!!

Do the instructions show the wrong nut, or is there some tool in the kit I can use to grip the nut??

No it's a feature.... until the tool comes out....stick a flat bladed screw driver in there for now

DaveG28
22-03-2008, 09:10 PM
Grr, not having fun with this build so far, I'm useless!

Ok, have used theflat bladed screwdriver, but sadly the result is I now have a bent (but hopefully tight) slipper screw!! And no part number in the kit for the slipper screw!?

Also, have I managed to knacker it or is it right that the whole slipper assembly/spur is off kilter, it isn't straight at all now I've mounted it into the chassis. Its all pointed to the left front and right rear, have I broke it or does everyone else have the same thing?

Dave

stuhurley
22-03-2008, 09:27 PM
And no part number in the kit for the slipper screw!?
I dont know the part number, but the spur/slipper pads look pretty similar to associated ones...I would think an associated screw would fit.

Also, have I managed to knacker it or is it right that the whole slipper assembly/spur is off kilter, it isn't straight at all now I've mounted it into the chassis. Its all pointed to the left front and right rear, have I broke it or does everyone else have the same thing?

You mean the drive shafts etc dont run down the centre of the chassis?..thats normal

DaveG28
22-03-2008, 09:47 PM
Sorry mate, hard to explain what I mean, I think they all do the same from looking at pics, what I mean is that the spur gear is not straight across the chassis, I don't have the motor mounted yet but it looks like the mesh won't be straight as the spur is at an angle.

stuhurley
22-03-2008, 09:54 PM
Has one of the slipper pads moved?...just been looking at mine and it's pretty straight to be honest

the spur gear has pretty much the same clearance either side of the slipper support and seems to run straight enough.

can you take a pic?

stuhurley
22-03-2008, 10:20 PM
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee71/stuhurley/dsc00278.jpg

DaveG28
22-03-2008, 11:14 PM
Can;t get a pic until Monday, but yours helped thanks, in as far as its confirmed mine is knackered!!

Not sure how though, my outdrives are out of line as much as my slipper is, the entire assembly is off, in an angle similar to (though I don't think as severe as) your rear cvd.

Really :confused:, I wouldn't have thought the slipper mounts could be wrong as they are bolted together, but can't think what else would put the entire unit out of line. I know I have the bent slipper screw but I would have thought that would have created a wobbly effect, not a smooth but always out of line unit.

:confused::confused::confused:

sparrow.2
23-03-2008, 03:30 AM
The slipper screw bends because of the spring under the nut and having to shove a screwdriver up the outdrive to hold the nut. It doesn't actually do anything negative to the slipper.

I would have thought your slipper pads had moved while you were assembling it to get it completely squiff...

stuhurley
23-03-2008, 07:09 AM
Are the alloy mounts out of line ? ...sorry still trying to work out what part isnt straight...

I'd take it all out again and start over (just the slipper and mounts:lol:).

If the mounts line up straight, then its your spur/slipper. Take it apart again and make sure the slipper pads are in the slots in the spur

DaveG28
23-03-2008, 06:26 PM
I'll post a pic tomorrow night, it's the entire slipper assembly, including outdrives and spur, which look out of line compare to the alloy mounts. Which seems impossible to me! I'd have though if it was the slipper pads it would look wobbly as you spin it, but this stays consistently out of line in the same direction!?

Wondering if its optical illusion!!

DaveG28
24-03-2008, 04:30 PM
Ok,

am charging my camera at the momnt so will get a pic up asap, but, and I know this will seem weird....

The problem is that the outdrives have not gone on the bearings "straight". So its like the inside of the bearings you pt on the outdrives are not straight and therefore the whole spur assembly mounts off true.

Could this be the shims, as these bent as they went on? Other than that, anyone know why I'd have duff bearings!?

DaveG28
24-03-2008, 04:45 PM
Haha, talking to myself here but this may come in useful for anyone else building the car:

Ok, found the problem, it was how I had assembled the slipper mount with the two nuts at the bottom which have a screw in each side of them. I had tightened them all up with one side of the mount offset compared to the other, which is what then put the bearings etc out of line. Just reassembled it and the problem has disappeared!

stuhurley
24-03-2008, 05:17 PM
Glad to hear you've got it sorted :thumbsup:

DaveG28
24-03-2008, 06:26 PM
Next Question!!

Not a biggy, haven't got calipers with me and was wondering about the ball cup size on the kit, for the shocks, are they 4 or 5 mm, or imperial, does anyone know? I want to get some spares!

DaveG28
24-03-2008, 06:49 PM
BTW, EASILY the nicest shocks to build I have ever had, certainly puts Tamiya to shame!!

Once there's some spares knocking about, may have to get another set and out them on my 501X!

Dan Cockill
28-03-2008, 07:43 PM
yer i agree very nice shocks :thumbsup: its not really a build question but i thought it would help
also you might want to be careful when you put your batteries in because you might short them out if you touch them to theslipper mount i almost did it so me and kev put a peice of foam over it to stop that :thumbsup:

DaveG28
06-04-2008, 12:57 AM
Ok, two more questions from the build (I have NEVER used a shaft drive car before so apologies if these are stupid questions!)

I've put the gearboxes together and on to the car and two things are apparent:

1. There are bad tight spots in the drivetrain, not knochy all the time but just tight spots. Will these improve with running?

2. The rear diff case overhangs at the back when attached to the chassis, meaning dirt can get in to it. Is there any reason for this? I'm pretty sure I have done front and back correctly, so it seems odd to me? I am planning to just tape over it but just can't see why its there?

KevLee
06-04-2008, 07:30 AM
1. There are bad tight spots in the drivetrain, not knochy all the time but just tight spots. Will these improve with running?

Depends how bad it is? there may be some tight spots that will go with running in. As long as its not notchy, if it is, it may be because the bevel gear is shimmed too far and is clipping the diff plate.


2. The rear diff case overhangs at the back when attached to the chassis, meaning dirt can get in to it. Is there any reason for this? I'm pretty sure I have done front and back correctly, so it seems odd to me? I am planning to just tape over it but just can't see why its there?

Have you fitted the rear brace yet? the brace locates in that gap and covers it

hope that helps

sparrow.2
06-04-2008, 08:38 AM
1. There are bad tight spots in the drivetrain, not knochy all the time but just tight spots. Will these improve with running?



A little tightness is ok as long as you can't "count teeth" while you're turning the drivetrain. If you still don't like it then try running it in with a standard motor hooked up to 4-5V for an hour or so on your workbench and see what it feels like after.

DaveG28
06-04-2008, 11:10 AM
Hmm, there is one point of about 3teeth where you can "count teeth" each revolution. However there are other parts of the revolution where the drivetrain is totally free!?

Would you suggest shimming it more away from the diff egar and running it loose, or give the car a few runs and hope it improves the tight spot?

sparrow.2
06-04-2008, 12:07 PM
Did you make sure there was no flashing left on the gears befor you built the diffs? I suppose it's difficult to say at a distance. Whatever you do don't run it loose or you'll just end up chewing everything up.

Hook it up to a mabuchi or johnson can motor and let it run for an hour and see what it does then.

DaveG28
06-04-2008, 12:29 PM
Yeah I'll try and run it in, there was no flashing but it looked like the "pinion" wasn't totally true, I think thats why it runs looser then tight.

Presumably running tight is going to affect duration/possibly overheat the eletrics, while loose will chew the gears?

Lee
06-04-2008, 06:16 PM
Run it in with toothpaste;)

ben
06-04-2008, 06:26 PM
hahaha. Toothpaste? Colgate or aquafresh. I wonder what colgate sensitive is like :lol:

Lee
06-04-2008, 06:33 PM
Nicer on the teeth:thumbsup:


But seriously, toothpaste is a very fina abrasive;)

DaveG28
06-04-2008, 07:24 PM
Running it in at the moment, sounds nasty at low revs, but ok higher up!

Think the plan is to run it and see if it destroys itself!

Lee
06-04-2008, 07:32 PM
Dave,

I had to move my pinion gear away from the crown wheel i put the shims on the other side of the greabox casing to do this, i then just ran it on the bench, my car is noisey ish but it is also very free. Remember though it is a tub chassis, it will sound worse because of this;)

DaveG28
06-04-2008, 09:01 PM
If I leave it running too tight what will be the impact it will have?

Trying to decide whether to loosen it or not!

PS sounds like you had a good day with it!

DaveG28
06-04-2008, 09:12 PM
Dummest question yet, but I definitely want to get this right before cutting the lugs off my servo!!

I take it from the layour on pics I have seen that the servo outgear/where the horn goes sits on the outside end of the servo in the car, not the inside? :blush:

I've destroyed a few servo's in the last few months removing lugs (don't ask!) so want to make sure I get it right!!

Lee
06-04-2008, 09:15 PM
Correct with the servo dave spline to the outside:thumbsup:

The car felt good today, made some big steps forwards:thumbsup:

And running it tight is not really advised, i would get ti right through shimming it, then if it does wear you can always re-shim:thumbsup:

DaveG28
07-04-2008, 09:45 AM
Re shimmed the front (have forgotten to regrease though!) as per yours last night Lee, way better now thanks!

Rear is a little tight, but smooth so think I'll leave it alone!

With the servo mounting, is there a spare ball stud/nut somewhere in the kit? Looking from Garcia's car that the stud goes on the bottom of the servo arm?

Lee
07-04-2008, 09:50 AM
There should be a link in the kit but i have used a longer stud and a 2mm spacer to try and level the link out a bit, it does depend what servo horn you use though, mine was from a b4

maxoo
19-04-2008, 07:42 AM
hello,

What is the size off the ball bearing in the slipper outdrive please???

thanks !

stegger
19-04-2008, 08:41 AM
Maxoo, you may have to wait for the answer. They are at the first national of the year in kidderminster;)

maxoo
19-04-2008, 08:52 AM
thanks ;)

DaveG28
19-04-2008, 07:28 PM
Hi Maxoo,

Don't know sorry, did you ever get the manual, it may be in the parts in the back?

If not I'm at the national tomorrow (weather permitting!) and I think the Aero guys are there, I can ask for you if you like?

Dave

maxoo
20-04-2008, 04:41 PM
I don't have the manual :(

Thanks for your help !
++

maxoo
21-04-2008, 02:56 PM
nobody have a caliper for help me???

Lee
21-04-2008, 03:03 PM
10mm Inside Diameter

15mm Outside Diameter


HTH:D

KevLee
21-04-2008, 03:04 PM
They are 10 x 15 x 4mm

maxoo
21-04-2008, 03:27 PM
thank you !!!! :D

Lee
21-04-2008, 03:28 PM
Kev, your inbox is full :D

jimmy
23-04-2008, 03:20 PM
My build tip for the day is to take it easy with the supplied threadlock - one moment I had threadlock, the next I didn't - but my photo area was suddenly coated in the stuff. :lol:

stegger
23-04-2008, 03:23 PM
So your building one jimmy is it orange or mint????:)

Lee
23-04-2008, 03:28 PM
I thought the syringes were a nice touch though.


If your careful:thumbsup:

stegger
23-04-2008, 03:29 PM
Is it for a review jimmy????????

Lee
23-04-2008, 03:31 PM
Watch this space ;)

I think someone may be running a review car as well if my sources are correct :thumbsup:

oOple is ace!!

DaveG28
23-04-2008, 07:25 PM
lcome to the club with the threadlock Jimmy!! It happens with all 3 syringes, I found I got round it by putting a pin in the syringes as I squeezed, it helped the air unblock in there!

stuhurley
23-04-2008, 08:05 PM
Trusty old Durga becoming a shelf queen Jimmy? or are you going to give it to Vicky?

jimmy
24-04-2008, 09:59 AM
haha, I'm sure the Durga will come out again one day:thumbsup: It's gonna go on a shelf still covered in mud from batley, southport and Kiddy! :lol:

Those syringes don't like me. the brown greasy one spuffed onto me last night as well. Awesome idea but definitely needs some 'care'. not for clumsy people like me.

Lee
24-04-2008, 10:01 AM
Hows the build going Jimmeth.

nearly finished?

jimmy
24-04-2008, 10:04 AM
Nah, nasty toe-stubbing incident on tuesday, and working on clearning a room (for doing reviews in) last night meant I didn't start until 1030pm or something! Still, I did a bit :)

Body Paint
24-04-2008, 10:18 PM
My build tip for the day is to take it easy with the supplied threadlock - one moment I had threadlock, the next I didn't - but my photo area was suddenly coated in the stuff. :lol:

LMFAO, brings back memories of a certain Associated oil incident in Vaasa, man, you sure can squirt :lol:

matdodd
24-04-2008, 10:37 PM
LMFAO, brings back memories of a certain Associated oil incident in Vaasa, man, you sure can squirt :lol:

What a thing to say :lol:

DaveG28
27-04-2008, 05:59 PM
Lee/Kev etc, when you've sanded down the spacer in the shock cartridges, how much have you taken off, enough to make the orings "snug" but not compressed, or less than that?

Dave

Lee
27-04-2008, 06:02 PM
just snug i suppose Dave, its only to stop them piching the shaft. probably only 0.5mm. they will swell up anyway.

Just try it until it stops getting better i suppose:)

jimmy
27-04-2008, 08:24 PM
I'm told the newest kits will be shipping with ammended spacers - so sanding shouldn't be needed. I'm not sure about my car tbh as I've not done the shocks yet.. but AERO are constantly making small refinements.

spenner
27-04-2008, 08:52 PM
There will be plenty of new parts etc over the coming months to help the car, the Aero guy's are constantly looking to improve on the kit and upgrades that will be available.

Also after today the car is looking very quick... it has taking time but things are coming together.

DaveG28
27-04-2008, 11:52 PM
There's certainly a very fast car in there when everythings ironed out!

Anyone know if the amended spacers are in the spare shock kits/full buggy kits raceplace has in at the moment (guess I am asking the raceplace guys here!)?

Myself and my dad had an unsuccessful attempt at getting the cclips out of the cartridges tonight but no joy (we didn't have anything small enough to get into the 2 little holes on them), was going to order some proper tools but also planning to get shock spares so if the new ones are amended will maybe do that?

jimmy
28-04-2008, 12:07 AM
That's why my cars not progressed, can't be reviewing a car without looking at the 0rings!!! :) so got to head off to a model shop tomorrow to find a tool. went to three places today looking for a tool and no joy :(

DaveG28
28-04-2008, 12:29 AM
My dad found a mail order place, we think with a small enough tool!

I'll post the website up here in the morning Jimmy, I'll give the family a bell when they're up!

If you find one in the meantime, let me know what the inards look like, someone who's seen them in the original kit will probably know if they've changed (though I imagine it's just the length of the spacer thats been changed, nothing else).

Lee
28-04-2008, 07:21 AM
You do need the proper tool chaps:)

I got a pair of 10-12mm internal Circlip pliers, they work fine :thumbsup:

Northy
28-04-2008, 08:03 AM
Jimmy has some good o-rings for his :thumbsup:

G

DaveG28
28-04-2008, 11:03 AM
I've bought tools and spare clips from toolspot.do.uk Jimmy, so if you get stuck try there or Maplin!

Jimmy wouldn't happen to have some whities to put in would he Northy??

Mine arrived fine thx, gonna put them in when I get the cartridge open! :thumbsup:

jimmy
28-04-2008, 11:05 AM
If I can't get the tool at the model shop this lunchtime then I'll order from there thanks. I do indeed have whities to put in there :)

Southwell
28-04-2008, 11:15 AM
Maplins?

Northy
28-04-2008, 12:24 PM
Mr Aero (Bob) has whities too now :lol::lol::lol:

G

Lee
28-04-2008, 12:28 PM
Ready for world domination:woot:

jimmy
28-04-2008, 08:23 PM
Well I've failed - the tool I got from maplin is simply too big in all regards - so got to take it back and try find another. I'm reluctant to get one off t'internet unless someone knows for sure it will fit since I've been EVERYWHERE looking for one and only met with failure :(
I assume I have the slightly longer original spacers since it's easy to tear the seals when threading the shaft thru - which is what I did :( I wouldn't mind but AERO went overboard with these clips that could seemingly hold a tank in place.

MattW
28-04-2008, 08:27 PM
Schumacher diffs are held together with internal circlips. Schumacher have a pair of plliers that fit perfectly, not sure if this will help with the Aero bits - but may be worth a thought.

DaveG28
28-04-2008, 08:30 PM
I know Jimmy, those clips are strong!

My tool's arriving in the morning, as soon as it does my dad will try and use it on the clip (benefits of retirement means he's at home!). If it does the trick will let you know the part number.

Fingers crossed it works, the company said it will do all their clips from 3mm to 30 odd mm, but I'm worried the pins still won't go in the Aero holes!!

KevLee
28-04-2008, 08:55 PM
Schumacher diffs are held together with internal circlips. Schumacher have a pair of plliers that fit perfectly, not sure if this will help with the Aero bits - but may be worth a thought.

From memory they are exactly the same size clips as those used by Schumacher so thats a good option.

Not sure they have gone overboard with the clip, you just need the right tool (or a dremelled pair of cheap pliers :D). Jimmy did you shove a load of silicone oil/grease down the seals first to stop it tearing? it shouldn't tear even the kit seals. Hope you are having fun :)

jimmy
28-04-2008, 09:12 PM
I pumped it full of silicone grease yeah. I don't mind so much, I want to put the whities in there anyway first. I've used this type of clip quite a few times, I think from the old rc10 gold tub shocks, to all sorts of other cars in various places. And I've always been able to do it with what I had lying around - but these clips on the AERO shocks are reet chunky puppies.

RCbob
28-04-2008, 09:21 PM
i think its because they really are "sunk" in to the cartridge that makes them difficult to get out without the tool.

But they will never pop out mid run:thumbsup:

Elliott Hopkins
28-04-2008, 10:10 PM
Oh GOD I HATE INNER CIRCLIPS!

Seriously. If they aren't a pain in the are getting them in they ping across the room getting them out.

I have a gold tub RC10 and my Egress's Hi-Cap shocks have them too.

Elliott.

jimmy
28-04-2008, 10:15 PM
The rc10 ones are a dream compared to these! :lol: These are about 3 times thicker! I couldnt even get them to move!

Southwell
29-04-2008, 06:39 AM
Your hammers obviously not big enough then :lol:

DaveG28
29-04-2008, 10:47 AM
Ggrrr, the tool I got still doesn't fit! :mad:

Jimmy, if you find one could you buy two and post one out to me? I can paypal like with stickers! :thumbsup:

Lee
29-04-2008, 10:52 AM
This is what you need

http://www.shacktools.com/britool-pc10b-130mm-bent-internal-circlip-pliers-p-4344.html?osCsid=e68369c224712f555616aeece3b3a5ec

DaveG28
29-04-2008, 12:47 PM
Cheers Lee, is that the one you've used?

Lee
29-04-2008, 12:58 PM
Mine are not those exact ones, but they are the same size. :thumbsup:

DaveG28
01-05-2008, 01:37 PM
Hi Jimmy,

I've got a pair that works now, if you still need some let me know?

Dave

jimmy
01-05-2008, 01:41 PM
Thanks bud but I've got a pair on the way which will come after the weekend - if anyones going to Bury this weekend tho I wouldn't mind using them there if you can bring them? Lee?
The car is pretty near done but I dont know if I will race it this weekend or save it for Oswestry

Lee
01-05-2008, 01:44 PM
Im hoping to get to bury Jim, as long as its not going to pee down all day:)

stuhurley
01-05-2008, 04:07 PM
I'll be at bury Jimmy. If Lee doesnt make it, I can lend you some circlip pliers I dremmeled to fit

SHY
01-05-2008, 04:34 PM
Well I've failed - the tool I got from maplin is simply too big in all regards - so got to take it back and try find another. I'm reluctant to get one off t'internet unless someone knows for sure it will fit since I've been EVERYWHERE looking for one and only met with failure :(
I assume I have the slightly longer original spacers since it's easy to tear the seals when threading the shaft thru - which is what I did :( I wouldn't mind but AERO went overboard with these clips that could seemingly hold a tank in place.

I've long finished my A-1, with only minor build problems. As to the O-rings I found that the grooves for the E-clips for the pistons are too sharp, and they cut off pieces of the O-rings. When applying some AE green slime and in stead inserting them with the thread first it went well.

jimmy
02-05-2008, 12:59 AM
I went in thread first, and yes I was cutting the orings. There's no chance of leakage since they are so tight :lol: I have it 100% kit setup and it really doesn't feel right at all if I'm honest - even with the supplied 30wt oil it feel super over dampened. I think once I've put a proper setup on there (thanks to Lee for his help) it'll be nice.
The setup aside, the actually car is very nice indeed - superb quality which in all honesty I didn't expect, at least not this good.

DaveG28
02-05-2008, 07:04 AM
Hi Jimmy,

I've had/having the same damping problem, are you going to drill out the pistons and do the oring changes/snad down the spacer?

Those eare my next steps (thanks Lee and Kev :thumbsup:), if you've any other good pointers your trying on the damping let me know!

Lee
02-05-2008, 07:13 AM
Dave, there is no other tips etc regarding the damping, once you have sanded the spacer and put some whities in and drilled the piston then they feel as good if not smoother than any shock i have ever built.


The only thing i have done (so has Kev) is dremel off the little lump on the front hubs (the bit that hits the castor block on full lock) to allow more steering lock. You might not feel you need it but its an option.:)

SHY
02-05-2008, 07:25 AM
OK, so what is the correct length of the nylon spacer?

I agree J, the dampening feels way to hard for a std. setup. Not sure whether I will actually use the car, but if I do I think I'll use Losi shocks.

I'm also very curious as to 0 degree toe-in for the rear! OK, it will probably steer like crazy but must be very hard to control?

2771

Lee
02-05-2008, 07:45 AM
The car is suprisingly good SHY with the 0 rear toe, it actually gives the car a lot of side bite off power. I would give it a try if i were you.

Regarding the shocks, they are excellent, if losi shocks were better, im sure we would be using them:confused:

jimmy
02-05-2008, 10:31 AM
I think the shocks just need those adjustments - from what I know the spacer is now changed in the latest kits (not mine) and Aero actually are still producing pistons so I assume the ones included are the only ones around at the time.. I would hope Aero would work on a better kit setup so people can get going quicker.
I have drill bits from Lee so I can drill the pistons out to his recommendations but I need to get the tool to take the shocks apart first. I spoke to Bob at Aero and he said it might be something they will stock in the shop so people have access to the tool easier.

SHY
02-05-2008, 10:48 AM
What should the holes be drilled to in mm?

jimmy
02-05-2008, 10:53 AM
There's a question. The bits I have are all imperial I think? Lee?

Lee
02-05-2008, 10:55 AM
They should not be drilled in mm. You cant get drill bits close enough to the imperial sizes.

You have to get the number sized drill bits

DaveG28
02-05-2008, 11:23 AM
The higher the grip of the track the better the 0 degree hubs work, on grass it was very good, on dirt and in the wet I've struggled.

with the shocks, I can't tell the drill bits from each other, but I'm hoping I'll be ok with roughly 1.3mm rear holes (whichever Losi drill is closest to that I used) and one size smaller at the front. No spares so screwed if their too big!

Jimmy, I used Tamiya shocks at the first regional, you'd need to change spacers etc on the top mount to make it work right (I had them at an angle and bent three shock shafts!) but its much better than pre-fixed Aero ones!

Northy
02-05-2008, 11:30 AM
I'm ordering some 'number drills' today if anyone is interested? :confused:

G

KevLee
02-05-2008, 11:35 AM
As far as the shocks go i have built them with a thinner top washer to put less pressure on the seals.

Reducing the spacer will do the same thing and i would estimate taking about 0.5-0.75mm off that. The shocks are very smooth and free once you have done this (and added some whities) so ignore how they feel if you have not done this yet.

I currently have them setup with 56 holes front and rear with 30wt front and 25wt rear with Aero blue springs front and red springs rear (thats was in the cold and wet so maybe go up 5wt if its warmer).

These are the rest of my settings

Front
outside on wishbone
inside on tower
long upper link on tower
short link on hub - no spacer
Aero wheels (slighly wider than losi)

Rear
Short inboard wheelbase
short outboard wheelbase
middle hole on wishbone
middle hole on tower
long link on tower - 1/4 from bottom in slot
middle link on hub
Antisquat - 2 x 1.5mm washers

Gearing on 5.5 - 21/87

Notes: removed pip from steering link for more lock
removed material from under steering link balljoint (at wheel) to stop bump steer
Cutdown turnbuckle ballcup to increase droop at rear
one-way

KevLee
02-05-2008, 11:44 AM
The higher the grip of the track the better the 0 degree hubs work, on grass it was very good, on dirt and in the wet I've struggled.

with the shocks, I can't tell the drill bits from each other, but I'm hoping I'll be ok with roughly 1.3mm rear holes (whichever Losi drill is closest to that I used) and one size smaller at the front. No spares so screwed if their too big!

Jimmy, I used Tamiya shocks at the first regional, you'd need to change spacers etc on the top mount to make it work right (I had them at an angle and bent three shock shafts!) but its much better than pre-fixed Aero ones!

Dave, 1.3mm is close to a 55 hole (slightly smaller i think) so it won't be far off. I just feel it works better with 56 (1.2mmish).

This is a table showing you the drill size dimensions in inches
http://www.gcrossett.com/zipzaps/tech/drill_bits.htm

DaveG28
02-05-2008, 03:52 PM
Haven't got access to my instructions at the moment so have a quick question:

With the spacers you put on the pistons above the ball cups, is it the thinner ones to the front?

Lee
02-05-2008, 03:57 PM
If you mean the external spacers on the shock shaft then yes it is the thinner at the front, i actually run 2 O rings on the rear end instead of the large spacer:)

KevLee
02-05-2008, 04:07 PM
Haven't got access to my instructions at the moment so have a quick question:

With the spacers you put on the pistons above the ball cups, is it the thinner ones to the front?

Yes thats how you run it standard.

But If you put the longer type ballcup at the rear you don't need a spacer, maybe just use the very thin one to let the spring retainer sit correctly.

Also, on the front if you choose to run the one-way you may ned another spacer and/or dremel the end of the driveshaft to stop it fouling at full suspension travel.

hope that helps

DaveG28
02-05-2008, 04:40 PM
Yeah that helps thanks, useful tip too as I need to change some ball cups and don't think spares are available yet? This gives me some options with them!

KevLee
02-05-2008, 04:50 PM
Yeah that helps thanks, useful tip too as I need to change some ball cups and don't think spares are available yet? This gives me some options with them!

I'm not 100% sure but i thought these were available now? have you checked with the raceplace?

If you do run the turnbuckle type ballstud i'd recommend cutting it down to the same length as the normal ballcup and spacer together, otherwise you will have too much droop.

DaveG28
02-05-2008, 05:18 PM
Cheers Kev, last checked with them about a week ago, I'll try again!

Dave

redscott
24-05-2008, 06:51 AM
what servos do u all use?
I tried to use my hitec coreless ultra speed hs-965mg its way to big. im looking for something with high speed, good torque, and if possible metal gears. thanx n advance.

KevLee
24-05-2008, 09:36 AM
Hi Redscott, I use the KO 2413ICS and i really get on with it, so much so i put one in my 2wd too.

Some use the Futaba short stack servo (not sure of the number) which seems pretty good also

Dunc
24-05-2008, 09:50 AM
The Futaba low-profile servo model number is S9551. I don't think this has been out too long so you may still be able to purchase its predecessor, the S9550, as well (although I guess the specification isn't as good for this one).

KO have got some new low profile services coming soon (the 2511 & 2512; click here (http://www.kopropo.co.jp/wp/?cat=60)), but don't appear to have released any specifications yet so I'm not sure how these compare to the 2413.

HTH.

DaveG28
06-06-2008, 02:38 AM
Has anyone managed to set the slipper without the "slipper tool" without bending the screw?

When I tried the screw bent, I am building another tomorrow and would like to not bend the damn thing this time!

jimmy
06-06-2008, 09:49 AM
Other than not having a proper tool for the nut, no - no problems. I just jammed a small screw driver in there and tightened it until it felt about right.