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-   -   DEX 210 Building Tips/Issues (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82866)

Cream 19-10-2011 11:14 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by fmo (Post 569341)
I received my 210 yesterday and built it last night - superb kit!

There is only one issue where I am unsure if I did it right - the rear end in mid motor config, see attached image. The aluminium block has threads where the long screws go through which hold the rear bumper. These screws then extend up to the nuts in the recessed plastic piece. For me it was impossible to tighten the screws in a way that there is no gap between the gearbox and the rear aluminium brace. The gap is very small, but still there.

Why are the threads in the aluminium brace? I considered to drill them out to be able to tighten the rear end together, but first wanted to ask for your advise.

How did you do it?

Thanks, Frank
Is there a thread in any of the plastic parts?
If not, Screw the bolts into the aluminium brace tilll tight, slide the bolts through all the plastice parts, tighten nut on top to hold everything together.
If there is a thread in any of the plastic parts then there is an issue. As there is no chance the thread will match up in both the aluminium brace and any thread in the plastic sections.

ryanlownie 19-10-2011 11:17 AM
Finished building mine, hats off to all the designers and developers involved. Some great ideas on the car and it went together as good as the best.

It's only something minor but when looking at the servo mounts I liked the idea that they appear to be very easy to undo and allow you to remove a servo in 2 screws (+ the horn screw). However I've noticed that the screw is marginally blocked by the front brace, might be something worth taking a file to before assembly?

http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/6121/210oh.th.jpg

Tweaky 19-10-2011 11:37 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by fmo (Post 569341)
I received my 210 yesterday and built it last night - superb kit!

There is only one issue where I am unsure if I did it right - the rear end in mid motor config, see attached image. The aluminium block has threads where the long screws go through which hold the rear bumper. These screws then extend up to the nuts in the recessed plastic piece. For me it was impossible to tighten the screws in a way that there is no gap between the gearbox and the rear aluminium brace. The gap is very small, but still there.

Why are the threads in the aluminium brace? I considered to drill them out to be able to tighten the rear end together, but first wanted to ask for your advise.

How did you do it?

Thanks, Frank
Yes i noticed that, I assembled it all nice and tight with the spacers in, from underneath, then i ended up cutting the top off the anti roll bar plate, where the Nyloc nuts are housed, and then tighten the Nylocs down with a spanner.

fmo 19-10-2011 12:01 PM
1 Attachment(s)
The top plastic part has recesses retaining the nuts. As you said, these will never line up with the aluminium brace. Probably just cutting off the plastic retainers will solve the issue.
Frank


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cream (Post 569387)
Is there a thread in any of the plastic parts?
If not, Screw the bolts into the aluminium brace tilll tight, slide the bolts through all the plastice parts, tighten nut on top to hold everything together.
If there is a thread in any of the plastic parts then there is an issue. As there is no chance the thread will match up in both the aluminium brace and any thread in the plastic sections.

Cream 19-10-2011 01:18 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by fmo (Post 569407)
The top plastic part has recesses retaining the nuts. As you said, these will never line up with the aluminium brace. Probably just cutting off the plastic retainers will solve the issue.
Frank
Yeah going off your image you only have the three possible options. clear the threads out of the aluminium brace , remove the retaining section of the top block or 3rd if the caphead is small enought to fit in the retaining hex put the bolt in from the top and use the thread in the aluminium brace to hold it all together.

fmo 19-10-2011 02:13 PM
Thank you for your reply.
The third solution was also my first thought, but the rear bumper is fixed through the screws underneath the aluminium brace. I'll check if I would need the threads in the aluminium brace for a rear motor configuration, if not they are virtually already gone...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cream (Post 569437)
Yeah going off your image you only have the three possible options. clear the threads out of the aluminium brace , remove the retaining section of the top block or 3rd if the caphead is small enought to fit in the retaining hex put the bolt in from the top and use the thread in the aluminium brace to hold it all together.

fmo 19-10-2011 02:19 PM
Actually the threads in the rear aluminium brace are needed for rear motor.

So, a fourth solution comes into my mind - I could remove the lower thread of the long screws which would cause the screw tighten to the aluminium brace once completely screwed in. If I would remove this threads the screw could still turn freely in the aluminium brace and the entire rear block would be compressed by the top nuts.

Chris Doughty 19-10-2011 02:19 PM
threads are indeed used when in rear motor config.

what I would suggest is rotate the loc-nut by one flat in the captured rollbar holder and try again, and keep doing that.

rotating that will alter the position that the thread in the nut starts to engage.

once you have found the optimum position glue the loc-nut into the rollbar holder

Cream 19-10-2011 02:42 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by fmo (Post 569464)
Actually the threads in the rear aluminium brace are needed for rear motor.

So, a fourth solution comes into my mind - I could remove the lower thread of the long screws which would cause the screw tighten to the aluminium brace once completely screwed in. If I would remove this threads the screw could still turn freely in the aluminium brace and the entire rear block would be compressed by the top nuts.

Oww captivated bolts, Now you are getting fancy :thumbsup:

Origineelreclamebord 19-10-2011 02:42 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyM (Post 566068)
BEWARE!!!

I just reamed out two holes on the wing using the dimple marks. They are too far apart (at least 5mm). So don't use the dimples as a guide.

Perhaps the wing mounts are wider on an RM build and the dimples are for that configuration?
I really wish I read that before I reamed those holes :cry: By peculiar coincidence the holes have exactly the right distance to be fitted on my TRF201 though :lol:

Anyhow, I hope the wings will be available soon, and seperately from the body?

TonyM 19-10-2011 03:44 PM
As I intend to keep mine mid-motor I drilled the alu holes out. Now tight as a rat up a drainpipe.

mattybucks 19-10-2011 03:57 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Origineelreclamebord (Post 569476)
I really wish I read that before I reamed those holes :cry: By peculiar coincidence the holes have exactly the right distance to be fitted on my TRF201 though :lol:

Anyhow, I hope the wings will be available soon, and seperately from the body?
Get an LMR electra wing on it!!:thumbsup:

Robocop 19-10-2011 04:42 PM
Happy now as everyone said durango will sort out any problems with the car and they are like to say sorry if anyone got a little peaved with me but my first durango and i had a few problems with it but like i say all done.
Like to say thanks to mb models (i did not buy the 210 off them)but i have now purchased a 410 too and they are going to ensure durango do sort my 210.
Thanks happy man now

jonathan may 19-10-2011 05:27 PM
good to hear good thing about TD customer services 210 is my first durango too.

Sheepdog 19-10-2011 06:32 PM
All built, just waiting for my speedo to turn up, wire up and test everything then some track time, a superb crafted RC car, my first TD and a pleasure to build, big thanks to you all for the hints and tips, made things so much easier, glad you liking it a bit more Robocop and great shout on a top thread!! :woot::thumbsup::woot:

captainlip 19-10-2011 08:43 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattybucks (Post 569520)
Get an LMR electra wing on it!!:thumbsup:
These look smart do you stock them?

I'm tired of bending wings and gutted can't get a Tresrey replacement

sunbeam 19-10-2011 09:10 PM
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/z...h/DSCN5198.jpg

2 seconds on the lathe, but can be done with a small file or Dremel. Now it all works as it should and nothing wasted or unusable.

OneKiwi 19-10-2011 09:11 PM
Ran mine today for the first time, no real probs with the diff.
Real happy with the car so far but didn't have time to convert the 22 to MM to run a comparison, will do that next time.

Great build well done TD

fmo 19-10-2011 10:24 PM
that is exactly how it should be done. best solution and well done...

Quote:
Originally Posted by sunbeam (Post 569680)
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/z...h/DSCN5198.jpg

2 seconds on the lathe, but can be done with a small file or Dremel. Now it all works as it should and nothing wasted or unusable.

sunbeam 19-10-2011 10:34 PM
"that is exactly how it should be done. best solution and well done..."

It was your idea fmo :thumbsup:
I just followed your advice, so thank you :)


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