Here is my final setup from York Regional:

front

springs white (no compreision spring)
oil 25wt losi
piston kit with standard rebound valve
pushrod above rocker
pushrod lenth 33mm
revised front arms - washers in front of wishbone
no roll bar
ride height 19-20 mm
front wing kit with standard lines followed
slight toe in with 1degree of -camber

rear

springs losi blue front
oil 35 AE
piston kit
middle hole on rocker
no roll bar
large rear wing with half guerney
toe in to middle of front wheel
rear upright in upper hole
ride height 21-22mm
Standard anti-squat

I was using worn schumacher yellow minispikes with the outer row cutoff rear and 1 and a half cut off outer front and 1 row cut off the inner front.

Novak 5.5R brushless motor [72 spur, 14/15t pinion]
Nosram Matrix Evo ESC
Associated XP DS1015 servo
EP4200

The track was very high grip on flat grass with some big features.

It looks like you guys are running a lot thinner oil with the new shocks than used to be the case with the old style shocks? (and different rate springs, softer?) Am I right? :confused:

having just re read ya post. im softer on oil due to the larger shocks generating a lot more pac so the car feels and is a lot more supple to drive but still lands off the larer jumps better than previously. as for springs i havent run a pred in years and have just stepped into the x11 with lewis and adam h for help with setting the car up. front wise im abouty the same as before and have personally taken out the compresion spring so that i can go softer on the rear spring hence being a rate down on what previous setups have shown

hth

Nathan

Cheers Nathan. I'm going to try some experimenting this weekend with the ol' X10.

Also the rear pistons in the 'new' shocks only have 1 hole, so thinner oil is used to get the same damping :)

G

southport national setup 08



front

springs blue (no compreision spring) 5 1/2 turn in older style
oil 22.5wt losi
piston kit with standard rebound valve
pushrod above rocker
pushrod lenth 33mm with shockball undone 1turn
revised front arms with 1 washer behind wishbone
cone washer replaced with 4 losi gold ballstud washers. 3 under outer ball with 1 above
extra midde hole drilled for roll bar
roll bar 1.2mm (standard) middle hole
ride height 18 mm (driveshafts just below level)
front wing kit with standard lines followed with shock cartridge white washer under rear mount
slight toe out with 2 degrees of camber

rear

springs blue (no compresion spring) 5 1/2 turn in older style
oil 27.5 losi
piston kit
lower hole on shock mount
roll bar 1.2mm in stiff hole in lowered position (pic to follow)
wheelbase lenthened 1mm
ride height 22mm drive shafts just above level)
1.5mm rear block (reduces on power steering)
large rear wing with no guerney
toe in to middle of front wheel
2 degrees of camber
rear uprite in upper hole

shumacher yellow minispikes with outside and inside row cut off rear and 2 inner and outer cut off front

5.5 nosram 14mm sintered rotor
19/72
nosram istc
speedo settings 2/1/1/1.

notes
6.5 geared on a 19/20 tooth much easier to drive
poss cut extra 1/2 a row off the outer front to get less snatch when grip was very high

any extra info you need feel free to ask or pm

yes please (big eyes)
euh, some more info on this? You lost me? Rear block? Or is this a feature that only exists on the X11 (I have an X10)

thx!!

It is a inner rear hinge pin block that has been machined down. They are only on the X11 though.

one of the advantages of the x11 over the x10 is that is has proper alloy hingepin holders. this obviously adds to the strenth as it now uses 3mm hingepins as well and means that we can adjust things like antisquat very easily on the car. admittedly the antisquat blocks are still in the prototype stages but as far as i know there will be a set of blocks released for the car once testing is completed.

hope that helps

Nathan

Well, i'm thinking about competing with my Pred (X10 with BB shocks) in a local competition. It will be indoors, carpet, but with some nice jumps and other obstacles.
I actually have a little movie about this race last year: (Youtube) GB in Brussels 2007 -- Of-road-heats
I will certainly be a similar track. And a big chance there will be a minimum chassi-height-rule of 15mm.

I only found the setup for Worksop Indoor from Mattym0310 and am wondering if this Worksop-track is one with jumps .. or in other words.. (question 1) will this setup be ok for me, as a good starting setup?

also (2.) what about the BB-shocks on my X10? Any ideas on setup of these.

I'm not looking for a ready-to-use setup, but more for a ready-to-start-with setup, maybe with some hints on what to expect and how to try to adapt the setup.

thx!!

leave everything else as you would normally run it on astroturf, as for the shocks

front 25wt losi oil
piston standard
spring blue
with rebound valve
roll bar in the stiff position

rear 30wt losi oil
piston standard
spring white
no rebound valve.
roll bar in the stiff position

this is a good safe starting point although the team are working on this at the moment to improve it more. i will post a setup after this weekends worksop meeting

I always forget what these springs have to be compared with. blue equals 5.5, wasn't it? And white = 6?

blues are 5 1/2 turn, whites are the stiffest

This is my setup at the moment and one that i have changed very little over the last few weeks... its been a great setup at Eden Park, Stotfold, Kidderminster, wet or dry.

The only mods i have done are to stand the servo up and finding some slightly longer shafts on the rear shocks (this can be achieved by undoing the joint slightly but with the risk of it stripping off). I've also dremelled a little away from the rear of the front upper wishbones to let the suspension droop more and taken a little bit off the rear hubs that catch the wishbones. Getting more droop front and rear has made a huge difference.


Rear

• Red spring with compensator spring
• middle hole on wishbone (thats with the longer shaft, may need lower hole)
• Additional 57 hole in piston (standard one is about 57 also)
• 25-30wt oil depending on temp
• Hubs high
• Roll bar in short link (rear hole in wishbone)
• wing forward no gurney- see picture
• toe-in 3 degs
• 1 deg camber
• ride height - 21mm (which is wishbone just below level)
• max droop (measure with shuey mini spikes) - 45mm

Front

• Spring - Yellow
• Additional 57 hole in piston
• Oil 30-35wt
• ball joint done up on shock just showing thread
• push rod turnbuckle - 34mm - mounted on top of yoke
• top wishbone fully back (max caster)
• ride height 19mm
• max droop (measure with shuey mini spikes) - 40mm
• Roll bar in short link (front hole in wishbone)
• camber 1 deg
• Slight toe out

Extras

• Motor Tekin Redline 5.5 geared on 18/72
• One-way shaft
• Bumper cut down to improve ground clearance on landing jumps - see picture
• Cone washers used on front hub ball joints to prevent them popping out of position

any chance on some pictures of the mods you made, Kevin?

I've atached a picture of the chamfered front top arm that lets the suspension drop a little more. On the rear hub i've just realised that i only removed a little bit of material when i was running the hub low, there is no need to do anything to it in the high position.

The pictures above show the wing mounted forward, to be honest i'm not sure if others do this already but i found i had much more steering and it jumps better like this too.

I think thats about it... Let me know if there is anything in particular you wanted to see.

anybody a set up for carpet indoor for a 08
cheer

done

hiya mate,
i'm using Kev's set up at the moment.. posted just above ( clicky )

hope this helps,

NERCR - Slippy floor and carpet, one large jump plus some rippled mats

Front

• Blue Spring
• Additional 57 hole in piston
• Oil 35wt
• ball joint done up on shock just showing thread
• push rod turnbuckle - 34mm - mounted on top of rocker
• top wishbone fully back except for two small washers
• ride height - slightly lower than the back
• max droop
• Roll bar in long link (rear hole in wishbone)
• camber 1 deg
• Slight toe out
• Standard wing

Rear

• Blue spring with compensator spring
• middle hole on wishbone (thats with the longer shaft, may need lower hole)
• Additional 57 hole in piston (standard one is about 57 also)
• 30wt oil depending on temp
• Lower hole on the hub [high position]
• Roll bar in short link (rear hole in wishbone)
• wing forward half gurney
• toe-in 3 degs
• 1 deg camber
• ride height - wishbone level
• max droop

Extras

• Motor LRP x11 bonded 6.5
• One-way shaft - three o-rings on brake bias
• Bumper cut down to improve ground clearance on landing jumps - see picture
• Cone washers on top of front hubs removed and replaced with two 1mm washers underneath the wishbone and 1 on top.
• Rear anti-roll bar lowered
• Schumacher Mini-pins - yellow compound with blue foams/inserts
• Cut the inner two rings off the surface of the rims (see picture)

http://www.oople.com/forums/picture....pictureid=1014
I think i've remembered everything there :)

@ mattym0310

hi,

with oils soft than you used, the car on curve do not to overturn itself?:confused:

cheers lads but whats
Additional 57 hole in piston
you put extra holes in the piston

* bumper cut: what picture do you mean?
* Cone washer replaced: any pictures? what size are these washers (exterior diameter)
* how do you lower a roll-bar?
* cutting rings on the rims ... why? Is it for better fitting of the Shumi-tyres?

thx :D

ignore.

Hi lowie,
* when I put about the cut bumper I was going to upload the picture kev has already put up but forgot :lol: so here it is
* By cone washer, I meant the blue cone spacer on top of the front hubs [below the upper wishbone]. I have taken this off and replaced it with 2x 1mm spacers/washers underneath the upper wishbone, and 1x 1mm spacer/washer above it.
* anti roll bar lowered at the rear - picture attached, means that a slot has to be cut into the blue hinge pin brace at the rear of the car to hold the ARB. This helps to make it more fluid over the bumps because the ARB is more progressive.
* I found that cutting the rims made it easier to fit the schu. tires so I can get them more consistent each time, and I think it also makes the rims flex a little more without compromising strength.

Timmy, when it says to drill another 57 hole in the pistons it means to drill a second hole in the piston [on the opposite side to the first] which is the same size as the one already there.

http://www.oople.com/forums/picture....pictureid=1016

this is my solution for rear sway bar...

http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/4...2008023di9.jpg
http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/0...jpg/1/w800.png

this is a old bar for old pred...:p:D
in this day i have made some mod on my x11, drill new holes on wishbones for sway bar, anti-squat -1.5 mm than the original. new holes in to carbon rear plate for more droop. (thanks to niggs98)
next sunday i have a race on carpet, my problem is set the damper: because forward i have the old damper, but at the rear i use a big bore....:yawn:

Did you once see me do this? :lol:

G

that's why I started doing it G :)

forgot to mention on my setup that I am also using drilled rear towers to give me more droop

:lol::lol::lol::lol:

my setup for X11 on carpet (side glue) with some jumps:

front:
caster all rear
toe 0
camber 2°
schock standard X11 with 2 holes
oil 40 losi
springs 5.5
pre charge 12 mm.
tires schumacher minipin blu

rear:
anti-squat -1.5 of standard kit
new drill in to carbon rear plates, for more droop
camber 3°
toe in 2°
big bore (piston standard) with 1 hole
oil 20 losi
spring 5.5 + pre compression
pre charge 6 mm.
sway bar soft and medium hole on wishbones
tires schumacher minipin yellow

motor 6.5
ni-mh 4600 east power

please help me, for linoleum setup!!!:cry:

set up
 

herse my much guarded set up for all tracks. the only thing youll need to change is the ride height.

Front
Oil 30wt Reg pistons
Sprong. black no compression or rebound valve spring spacers 1x 4mm 3x3mm & 1x1mm
Washers in front of upper wishbone holder 1x 1mm all others at the back.
shocker pivots ( the blue bits that hold the shock on) up side down and the droop bars attatched under neith.
2x rubber bands on the one way prop shaft.
1deg to out
-2 deg camber
anti roll bar 2nd hole in from outer.
diff tight with no slip
front wing with 4mm of gurnie

REAR
40wt oil std pistons
springs silver and pre compress springs no rebound valves.
1x4mm spacer 2x3mm spacer
lowest hole on upper wish bones.
- 2/3 deg toe in depending on how slippery
Outer on the hub carriers
-1 deg camber
lower on hub carriers to lower wish bone
rear diff slacker than front still with no slip
B44 hish down force rear wing with 3mm of gurnie.
anti roll bar outer

5.5 novak brushless with std spur and 18t pinion

Hope this helps as now iv got the perfect handling pred for all conditions
just put it down and off we go. Had some great results this season
2ns f345, 1st teesside regional and 1 leg of the f2 finals by 12 seconds once i sorted my electrics out.

cheers
James ( big brotha voice) Chappell

and how do you guys cut those inner rings on the rims? With a knife? or dremel?

sounds interesting. Any pics on how this extra droop is achieved?
( I think this was allready covered on the Pred-forum ... but since this forum is not functioning anymore :( ... )

Hi mate, rims are cut just using curved body shell scissors. dremel would be just as easy.

The pics are shown here: http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15796

Just an extra hole drilled alongside the existing shock mount hole.

HTH :)

Thanks!;)

your welcome
 

Your very welcome;):bored:

JC - are you running the 'Big Bore' shocks, or is that setup with the old style jobbies?

he runs big bore i'm pretty sure of it

yeah james is runnning big bores on his pred :thumbsup:

big bores
 

Hi Alfonzo

Yep big bores all round. Basicly the x11/08 set up.

Regards
James