Looks fantastic!

[Deleted post, couldn't sort massive font!]

Can people please report which shocks they have used successfully with the cobra?


So far heard:


Kyosho Option Gold
RC10 B4 & B5
Schumacher Big Bore (cobra evo OE)

The mardave original shocks were used by Steve Pole and he did well and liked them back in the day. Traxxas shocks were also the correct length as the cobra had quite long shocks on the front. These days you can use any modern buggy shocks but you will need the shorter front shock tower which is available from mardave or fibrelyte. Mardave supply the new car with schumacher shocks these days.

Cheers. I'm just going to meed to watch out for second hand shocks then! The big bores sound great but looks like they're not generic springs meaning not only £80 on shocks, but then £19 or so a pair on springs. The £200+ price tag on the evo takes some getting used to, but them you remember made in UK, and these high spec add ons and it is quite an achievement.


I'd like to go shorter on the shocks where possible. All that drag right up front can't be doing the stability any favours. A ~17mm ride height has been suggested, will look into droop before deciding on a set.

Looks like this chassis had various rear ends on it! Most of these holes will be filled and run with a standard box with evo guts.


If anyone recognises the chassis it looks like it has the motor curl up flattened a bit and a Reedy sticker on the underside.

Hi all

Have been dusting down the cobra with the intention of getting it back on the track. You can see it further back on this thread.


Have upgraded the box with the Evo parts to run brushless and need to rebuild my shocks.

I've been looking at the rear end though and have been planning a new mod.

I'll try to post some photos but I'm struggling now that photobucket is a pay service. My ibb account doesn't seem to post here.

So the basic plan is to address the rear top link which sits at an angle due to the mounting point on the rear hub.

My plan is to create a cad design of the rear hub with a four hole mount set lower down based on the design of a mad monkey rear hub. Designed properly I should be able to get
the top link level with the bottom arm and have four mounting points to add some more adjustment to the rear.

Do you guys think levelling the top link will make any difference to the rear end?

https://i.ibb.co/d2DGCDD/IMG-20210629-212832.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/wWbkCh3/IMG-20210629-212841.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/5rhzzZN/IMG-20210629-192401.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/w7WXpH0/IMG-20210629-192455.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/52HG1tQ/IMG-20210629-192218-01.jpg

Levelling the rear link will give more rear roll in corners and less side bite. Can you not level out the rear link on the inner side. On mine you can. I have the fibrelyte two peice tower.

Yes I can. Was hoping with a redesign of the hub I could get more adjustability on the outside of the link as well.

Been mucking about with an old chassis today to see if an idea I had worked.

https://i.ibb.co/SVHrSkg/IMG-20210704-WA0012.jpg

Decided I wanted to see if I could get the battery pack to move forward to allow weight balance adjustment if I ever wanted. However the old steering set up was in the way.

So made some mods and used a short servo.

https://i.ibb.co/w7GSThw/IMG-20210704-162307.jpg

Can move the battery forward up to 20mm now if I want.

https://i.ibb.co/phZ9rnY/IMG-20210704-162322.jpg

Annoyingly I've noticed that the factory holes for the front bulkheads on this chassis are out so the front is poorly lined up.

https://i.ibb.co/DLYq60n/IMG-20210704-162340.jpg

Now that I know it all works though I may buy a fresh chassis and get it sorted properly.