Sorry to hear you had the same issues. I emailed them like some of the guys here have suggested. The reply was fast and they said they would ship the parts out to me right away. Hope I get them soon cause I'm all the way in asia and I think it to take a week or so.

It was just really annoying how I have to put a hold on the build until the parts come in when I could have completed everything in a day. I guess I'm just impatient.

I've noticed the team drivers are running a different top deck and not using the turnbuckle, what is the advantage of this and what are the part numbers?

the moulding is for the stick pack on the old SV, it is to create more flex in the chassis.

I tried it, not much better, try removing the rear two top deck posts and stick with the turn buckle, or do what I have done, which works for me and a couple of other guys with the SV2.

details on page two also make sure you at least 50% rebound in the dampers to.

Neale

I still run the standard top deck and turnbuckle. I only use the middle 2 posts tho, not the rear ones.

Si

Do you screw the top deck down or use body clips?

+1 :confused:

the question is, are Schumacher going to release a two wheel drive buggy that has all the parts that work on Astro out of the box instead of having to leave parts off or buy new shocks etc. ?

What parts have you had to buy??

Why Would you need to buy new shocks the ones that come in the kit are fine

I was wrong regarding setting up the SV2, after reading most of the info for the SV2 I went back to the base set up.

Doing this I then started to just work on the damper settings and after a while I got the a setting that started to work fo me.

This is with every thing as the kit just changing the damper oils, front and rear chambers, and ride heights.

So I have a car that handles jumps, turns well through tight and long fast turns, and what kept me working on the car is the accuracy of steering and the ease of access to every thing, such as taking the diif out is done in so quickly.

regards

Neale

Anyone??:eh?::eh?:

Body clips

hi
I have been doing some testing at worm with my SV2 and have found that adding the full weight kit from Trish improves the handling over a ver fast down hill part of the circuit that with out the weights tends to through the car off line and ca only be driven at a reduced throttle.

The other item I have been working on ias the aero set up and found the bull dog Proline shell works much better then either of the Schumacher shells, test results show better and more consistent lap times.

The forward cab Schumacher body shell seemed to actuall develop lift as on the down hill section is was more prone to lift the front end of the car.

So check out the Trish weight set and the Proline Bull dog shell, the shell is much narrower and comes with a new under tray and rear wing, the new under tray is supplied as the body shell is the exact width of the chassis.

regards

Carb

Rear hex and 17.5 blinky gearing
 

I am trying to use a hex adapter for the rear but not sure which ones work. I have tried using the j concept rear ones without the purple spacer n its still a touch wide. I tried j concept fronts with the purple spacer n its definately too wide. Anyone got the right ones?

Also how should i gear the car with a 13.5 or 17.5 motor hoping to run blinky.

Thanks guys.

I think the schumacher hex that comes with the sx3 and k1 should fit.

U3381

I Hope this helps

Thanks. I used the original conical spacer and just used a jconcepts hex adapter. Works well so far.

Got a pre assembled sv2 never ran before, only adjusted ride height fitted a 7.5 sp motor, esc had 10% drag nothing else set any different than when it was in a b4, roll bar left on.
All i did was tighten a few lose screws.


My question is why would it do a 360 degree spin when turning with or without throttle either fast or slow ?


After first run i removed drag brake and set the slipper and diff properly, i added longer ball cups to rear shocks as it drooped too much and set the shocks in one hole.
I know its a lot to do without knowing whats causing it but checking what other ppl's setups are like it seems this is common to do this.
Also i think the diff and slipper were wound up a bit tight as niether hardly gave when locking pinion and turning one wheel while holding the other.
This along with the motor having a natural drag effect i think is causing it.

Will be testing it on polished floor soon so hopefully it will run.
Anyone experienced this buggy being impossible to drive like this ??

Is your car sorted?

Dunno missed last couple of chances to test it, gotta wait till friday night now.
.....hopefully !

Ok keep us posted. I'm curious what couldve caused it to react like that.