:woot: very nice track!!!:wub

(pushord-mod & hub-mod: I thought so too)

I phoned him and told him he 'd better post his tried setup here, just as you said/asked.
We'll see from there.

so what I have tryed.
on the rear oils from 25 to 35 singel and dubble drild pistons.
low and high roll center.
every position on the rear rocker arms.
the front the same more and less caster .
puchrods on top off yoke or on the bottem.
and this is how I ended.
front caster 3 shims on the rear off the upper arm.
puchrods on top of yoke .
shocks oil 40 new piston.
yellow springs
0 degree camber .
the rear bottem hole off hub ( low rollcenter to give more drive)
shocks in the middle position on rocker.
oil 35 new piston
red springs
0 degree camber
I think thats about it.
the car feld good at several moments but wasent fast at all.
whith the last setup the car was lose at the rear too lose but its averidge whas axepteble.
any help would be great

what is the car doing on the track buddy ,anything wierd , is it sliding alot and losing grip on the corners too

getting in tho a corner is perfect even in the mid corner but than comming
out her ass is evry ware .
even onn the bumpy places(everyware) the car handels great .
but when exiting a corner I need too wait too long befor tuching the gas

Try the rear like this..

Soft pistons
30wt
lower hole on hub (think you are there already
Lower hole on rear tower
Red spring.

Make sure you don't have more droop on the front than the rear. Also make sure your rear diff isn't slipping or tight... I had a similar issue recently and it turned out to be the rear diff.

Are you running anything under the balljoint on the front hub?

djest putted in new diffs tho richt of the diff problem.
I whas driving in the upper hole on the hub but than tryid the bottem one
and that whas far better.
there is a cone wacher under the front balcup.
have 43 mm off droop raer and 35 front .
will change oil on the rear too 30 .
and try on saterday
it is possible that it was the diff so we chal see iff it works now(had thot abaut it so daerfor it is a new one now)

forgat tho mention whas driving standard puchrods in the front .
talkt tho lewis and he sugjested tho put also the puchrod mod on .
so alraedy prepeard that aswel

glad to hear you (at last) try the pushrod-mod as well :)

had a phone-call with Bart (Phoenix of Feniks).

Seems his problems came from a bad batch of Losi-tyres.
He was not the only one having troubles ... and when they mounted some older, worn tyres, they were significant faster then with the "new" ones.

Unfortunatly, Bart did not have any rims left ... so couldn't mount some new tires with some GOOD losi-tires ...
and he drove with his older Yokomo 4WD B-Max. He managed a podium-place nevertheless.

Well done, Bart.

does anyone of the team-drivers have any information to share about the setup(s) that was (were) used at the Euro's?

Any new tricks, testresults, things we could learn from?

Euro's Setup:

Rear
Red spring with compensator spring
middle hole on tower
New hole in shock mount (more droop)
17mm of shock shaft showing
Old piston's drilled to 57 hole
32.5wt oil
Hubs high
Roll bar in short link (rear hole in wishbone)
wing forward no gurney
toe-in 3 degs
1 deg camber
Wishbone level
Antisquat - Standard brace

Front
Spring - Blue
Old piston drilled to 57 hole
Oil 32.5wt
New position on wishbone using blue servo mounts and hole drilled at edge of webbing
push rod turnbuckle - mounted on top of yoke with cone spacer also
top wishbone fully back (max caster)
ride height - wishbones slightly sagged
camber 2 deg
No toe in/out
Front hubs modded and mounted low

Extras
20g under front shocks
5g to space speedo from shaft
6 x 5g to along spine to space lipo fromt shaft
Trakpower 4900 - approx 280g
Motor Tekin Redline 5.5 geared on 21/72
Tekin RS Pro mounted up front to get weight forward
Diff front and rear, locked prop.
Bumper cut down
Front hinge pin holder filed down and rounded in the middle.
Team xtreme 'Hot weather' wheels
Schumacher Yellow mini spikes
Trishbits foam inserts

Thank you very much for the set up information!! Any chance we can get a picture of the car to see how the electronics are laid out???

have a look at jimmys car, post 75 on this thread http://www.oople.com/forums/showthre...t=11302&page=4. seems to be the norm now. if you have a tekin then you can lay the servo down (for less flex) and still have the space to fit it all in ;)

Any chance of some more info on these?

Thanks for the link Nathan. Do you have your servo laid down or straight up?

layed down. i copied kev and made a carbon mount for my servo then bolted that into the car otherwise one of the servo mounts is either in or very close to a batteryslot so is a very weak mount unless you do this. as a rough guide i leave a 4mm gap between the servo and motor for the sensor wire. for motor removal i then remove the 2 motor mount screws and the "jesus screw" and take the complete assembly out. this gives more room for the speedo ;)

at Spenner, about your setup:

front push-rods: do you know how long the turn-buckles were (measurement between the two ball-heads)?

Pistons: front and rear: old ones ... but are those the ones with 1 or with two holes? (.. and then drilled to 57-hole)?

Rear locked shaft (in stead of diff): how do you get a locked shaft (and diff with glue instead of diff-balls and grease??) and why did you use it? What are the advantages of a locked shaft?

and ... thanks for sharing! :D

front push-rods: do you know how long the turn-buckles were (measurement between the two ball-heads)?

The measurement is different for each car, basically equal droop on the front. The wishbones will be at max droop. When the car is compressed at the front it should bottom out and you will just be able to raise each wheel.
I will get the measurements but i can tell you it is different for each car as mine is different to Kev's.


Pistons: front and rear: old ones ... but are those the ones with 1 or with two holes? (.. and then drilled to 57-hole)?

Pistons are 1 hole with extra 57 hole drilled, and run 57 drill through current hole.

Rear locked shaft (in stead of diff): how do you get a locked shaft (and diff with glue instead of diff-balls and grease??) and why did you use it? What are the advantages of a locked shaft?

Not sure what i put down!!!! But i am running the diff in front and rear with the locked prop shaft. So permanent 4wd.

Hope this helps....

Spenner

I'm doing a full rebuild this weekend, I'd be interested in knowing what you've done to the front hinge pin holder. Cheers mate

thx dude

All we have done is dremelled the bottom. Dremell back and round off as this digs in when landing on some jumps. I have then rounded the centre so there isn't a lip.

Cheers mate, sorry to be a pain but is there any chance of a picture.

Pretty sure this is spenner's car from earlier this year. You can see how cut down the bumper is from stock

http://www.northernracer.com/images/talywain/57.JPG

Yes that is my car :thumbsup:

The bumper is cut down and if you look at the front hinge pin brace you will see that has been dremelled too. This was the area we was working on at the Euros.

For now it is a short term fix but there maybe something on the way....

Will keep you posted

Nice one cheers mate, I'll have a go at that at the weekend.

Setup for Indoor Astroturf Offroadtrack of BRCC (Charleroi, Belgium)

High grip mainly but some less, what makes it difficult. Also a series of short, steep bumps.

MODS:
pushrod-mod,
stickpack
droopmod: rear: new drilled holes in the shocktowers: +2mm, shockshafts showing 17mm
front: added 3mm washer in the shock, 2,5mm cut off ball end and shaft only 14mm showing
Anti-rollbar: extra medium hole drilled on all A-arms.

FRONT:
height: 16mm
shocks:
piston 2 holes
Precompression + blue
35wt (losi)
A-Rbar: medium
Tires: Schum MiniSpikes Yellow (worn out!!) with cut 2 outer and 1 inner row of spikes.
Toe-out: 1 - 2mm
20grams of lead under shocks
Caster: full back
Camber: 2°

REAR:
height: 23mm
Tower middle hole
Shocks:
piston 2 holes
precompression + yellow
30 wt (losi)
tires: Schum MiniSpikes (worn), cut 2 outer and 1 inner row of spikes
Toe-in: 3°
Camber: 2°
Hub high (lower hole)

GENERAL:
Spektrum
MRT personal transponder
Rear wing 17cm, 1cm gurney
Front wing: 2mm washers under rear part.
Lipo CS 5200mAh (30C?)
Tekin RS Pro
motor CS 6.5 sensored.

!! all this with very worn Shum MiniSpikes Yellow. When i tried some new ones, even cutting away several rows of spikes, the car still had some griproll.
I might want to try some Schum Minispikes blue (which i had not when training).
I also tried Schum Staggered ribbs in the front (what a lot of 2WD AND strangely, also lots of 4WD-drivers use on the Schum Cat and B44) but that made the car twitchy and nervous.
Spikes are the way to go with a Pred.


! Also I found the car a bit better with the modded front hubs (lowered); smoother in the turns.


[edit]
last minutes changes, after yesterdays training:
higher in the front: from 16 to 18mm
made the car go easier on the bumps, but lost some traction and steering.
I then removed both rollbars (which i usually never do ?! :confused:) .. and I gained some traction again + even better on the bumps + easier to drive on the changing-grip-section of the track. Don't know why, but it helped. (Can someone explain?)
I do want to test out with some Schum MiniSpikes Blue in the front though.

And I also want to try out with more lead in the car, making it heavier.

roll bars removed.
 

how you doing mate?

I found with my x11 once roll bars are removed, you seem to have more pivot with-in the car. the only thing that was a down fall for me was that the car would want to flip over under hard corner speed. :cry: I think that is do with how the pred is so flat?:confused:

hope this helps. :thumbsup:

@ Lowie : could I use your setups for an indoor grippy carpet race with Minipin yellow tires ? You use a low ride height but how many droop in mm do you use front / rear ?

Thanks

grass setup MAC Vlijmen
 

hi all,

This is the setup I used on the last round of belgium/dutch nationals
It was run on a grass track that became very bumpy with big holes after a whole day of running the day before the race.

The car has big bore shocks, the orange steering parts, lipo chasis, and the short pushrod mod

Front:

wheels parallel
camber: -3°
caster: all spacers in front of upper wishbone
anti roll bar on soft (outer position)
droop: standard
ride height: 25 mm

shocks:
oil: 35 Losi
piston: std 2 hole
yellow spring + precompression gold
no limmiters

Rear:

toe in: 3°
camber -2°
droop: standard
anti rollbar: soft position (outer position)
ride height: 25mm
shock location: hole c= bottom hole
Rear hubs high= bottom hole

Shocks:

oil: 40 Losi
piston: std 2 hole
spring: red + precompression gold
no limmiters

I drove the car with a one way shaft but I think the solid shaft would have been better.

Tires:

front: schum minispikes yellow with one inner and 2,5 rows of outer rows cutted down
rear: schum minispikes yellow with one outer row cutted down

motor: CS 7.5 turns geared 21/72
esc: Nosram
Battery: kypom 5800 35 c stick pack

30 gr of brass under front shocks
30 gr down the spine of the car (next to the battery)
Rear wing: 7"

Car felt gr8 over the bumps, I also loosened the slipper about 1/16 of a turn so the car was more stable during acceleration out of the corners.

cheers

I know these cars aren't as popular here in the US as they are in Europe, but i wondered if anyone had a decent Indoor Clay setup?

I would love to get my hands on one of these cars and a good starting point would be helpful.

Are people still running these with much success? I see some pictures but is anyone making it into the top 10 consistently with the X11?


Thanks



MOmo

Carpet set up
 

Does anybody have a set up for carpet for a B4.1 Gen 2 Vega?

Lee I would go with Danny Mcgee set up, I'm running it on my Vega and its great on carpet:

Hi All,

Here is my setup from Kiddy.

Clearly i've not done much testing with the car yet, but this seemed to be a really good starting point from which i will work from.

Front
Oil: 37.5
Piston: Associated 2 Piston
Spring: Big Bore Losi Green
Shock Position:
Inside on the wishbone
Second hole on the tower
Camber Link:
Inside on the tower
Shortest link on the Hub
2mm under the bump steer washer position
Brass bulkhead

Rear
Oil: 30
Piston: Associated 1 Piston
Spring: Big Bore Losi Pink
Shock Position:
Inside on wishbone
Middle on tower
Camber Link:
Second from top on the longest (inside) hole
Middle on the standard 0 degree rear hubs (turned around the make the camber link a bit straighter)
Short Wheelbase
4 degree's antisquat
3.5 degree's toe in

Motor: Tekin 7.5
Speedo: Tekin RS Pro
Gearing: 26/81

Mark,
Thanks for the reply on the camber links are you refering to using the left on the right hand side and vice versa?
Lee

hi
 

has anyone got a astro set up for rb5 vega gen 1?

rb5 vega setup for astro
 

Still required
Thanks