1/10 BRCA Regional Series
 

These are the following dates for the BRCA regional series.

Round 1 26/27 May @ BADMCC
Round 2 16/17 June @ NIMCC
Round 3 28/29 July @ BADMCC
Round 4 22 September @ Drop Inn (TBC)

There will be practice on the Saturday from 10:00-12:30. Then race meeting will commence on Sunday.
The day will run along with the 1/8 RCCAOI National rounds. This was done to avoid clashes of dates and free up space on the calendar for other events such as 1/10 RCCAOI National events etc.

Recommend Tyres for NIMCC and Drop Inn are Schumacher Mini Spikes (yellow compound). The Tyres for BADMCC are Losi blockhead fronts (4wd) Losi x-2000 or Losi bigshot rears (both 4wd & 2wd) or Proline Calibers PLEASE NOTE SPIKES ARE NOT PERMITTED AT BADMCC !!!!

Hope everyone can make this series happen as this is the first it has ran for several years. I would like to take this opportunity to thank the clubs for their support and helping me make this happen.

Great news Andy!! Well done.
I'm delighted that series is going ahead, I hope its a huge success and that it adds to the resurgence in popularity for the sport in the North at the moment :thumbsup:

There are a few questions that I have - to which there are no right answers, I just want to be able to answer them when the drivers down here ask.

Will marshalling rules be changed so that 1/10th electric drivers marshal their own section, or will they be marshalling the nitros also? Personally, I'd have no problem marshalling the nitro heats, or any 5 minute final... but an extended final (cant remember if they are 30 or 45 minutes) would wreck some electric driver's heads :D - maybe its something to be considered.

The BRCA regionals are for just two classes, 2wd Mod and 4wd Mod. Is there any intention to run a Clubman class along side these to attract novice drivers to the championship. The Clubman racers could run in the same heats as the modified, but have a seperate results table and maybe some trophies at the end of the year. As 75% of our racers in the South run in the resricted class (10.5 motor and no esc timing advance) it would be a shame to exclude these drivers.

Regarding the tyres - you've been very good and recommended several suitable tyres for Aghalee. I just want to clarify what is meant by no spikes - the Losi X-2000 has rows of pins around a central X. Are the pins not spikes? If pins (as per the tyre label description) are allowed, could I use a Losi M3 Step-pin? - this tyre has bigger spikes than a Schumacher Minispike, but they are still called pins. It's a very grey area, and we all want to work with you and Aghalee to ensure that their track is not damaged. But perhaps setting 1 control tyre (I recommend Proline Calibers inline with EFRA dirt events) might rule out any technical issues on the day. It also helps the local retialer with stock requirements.

As I said, I'm absolutely thrilled that not only is the series planned and soon to be up and running, but also that there is enthusiasm in the north to go racing outside :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

I think the point Andy was driving it is that spikes flat out don't work at Aghalee.

There's little sense restricting what dirt tyres people can use, as there are so few on the market here - I'll be trying out the cheapy Fastrax ones, pre-mounted and all. Calibres and Losi X2000s have proven to work well there, with the former on slightly moister clay, and the latter when it dries out.

grass type spike tyres are generally harder..not only will they not work they would damage the surface...so any clay/dirt type tyre whatever the tread arrangement would work...I agree with William about a control tyre..this works in all motorsports...I would also recommend proline calibers...that's what I intend to run...holeshots wouldn't last me 2 runs..badmcc seems quite abrasive

there is loads of clay tyres available...maybe not in our local hobbyshop...but the compounds and patterns vary vastly ....far far more than any grass / astro tyre...proline,j-concepts,aka,losi,..amounts to dozens of choices from each manufacturer...control tyre is the only way to go for me..

badmcc?...dirt?...oh no that means I'll have to order the new b4.1 world edition...what a bummer...lol

Calibres, while expensive, do have excellent wear rate. I'd have no complaints using them. Any old rib tyre will work on the front of a 2wd, I'd suggest leaving those open.

- just lie back and think of the team discount....or man up and be the one to work out a dirt setup on the Centro!

If there is no current control tire dont limit the tire choose, i have a ton of bowtie and holeshot tires on rims from last years Euros i want to use up. This event would give me the ideal reason to use them for once.

:thumbsup:

+1 for calibers.
Ran one set for 6 full rounds at Aghalee (BADMCC) last season and they were stonking (they get better the more they wear!)
As Colin rightly says, they are slightly better on moist ground, and slightly skiddish when it gets really dry and dusty

... or as colin says, whens the track is Bournville they are good, when its Cadbury's its ok, and Lindt is just plain wrong :p

Ok here we go !!

1: Marshalling :- depending on numbers we will Marshall ourselves. If not the longest you will have to Marshall will be a 7 min 1/8 race. Finals could be longer again depends on number 1/10 drivers.

2: Clubmans Class :- depends on interest of this class DRIVERS CONTACT ME

3: Tyres :- I'm going with Colin on this one. I don't feel it's suitable to call a control tyre as lots of Tyres are available. The ones I posted are the ones that work at agahlee track. As for definition of Tyres it is as Mark said DIRT TYRES ONLY !! that means GRASS TYRES. This is a ruling of the club and we need to respect their wishes or we won't be allowed back !! If anyone is unsure of a tyre send me a pm with the tyre name and model and I'll check with the club if it's permitted.

Hope this helps !!

Doh NO GRASS TYRES !!!!! should really preview before posting lol

Spot on Andy, that's good enough for me.

I'll make a list of Clubman drivers from our club who are interested and come back to you.

Might be a good idea to take a show of hands at the next National Indoor round on Feb 5th as there will be alot of travelling drivers there.

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

Great news but that means i have to run 1/8th and 1/10th on the same day ill be busy!!!

I can now confirm the last round of the BRCA Regionals has been confirmed for saturday 22nd September at Drop Inn Racing !!

If there is going to be a clubman class would they be included in the overall rankings just with separate class winners and so still qualify for an F ranking or would they be ran as an entirely separate (non-regional) class and therefore not eligible for ranking?

BRCA ruling doesn't run a clubmans class. 1/10 is an open class for motors no limits. So in keeping with this there will only be two classes 2wd and 4wd.

You can certainly run 10.5 motors and you will receive an F grade on your fininshing position.

I haven't received any interest from any drivers about running a clubmans class and with the organising getting to the critical point I don't foresee a clubmans class being run. Sorry guys, but nobody contacted me about showing interest.

Andy

Doesnt affect me too much Andy with no clubman class, but just to highlight something you mentioned in the post above...

Is this strictly true? Surely if someone runs 10.5, and through a feat of superhuman driving ability beats everyone else then their grading would be top of the pile - not F.

i.e. isnt it down to how well you do in the series, NOT on your motor rating?

The "F" gradings are F1, F2, F3, F4, F5 - all are F gradings.
Winner and certain percentage behind will be F1.
Then certain percentage after that will be F2, etc etc.

The F grading I speak of is F2 F3 F4 F5 etc. Yes if a guy running a 10.5 motor wins he does indeed take the win for that round.

BRCA is open motor class. This means you can run any motor you want.

DOH!
Sorry, stupid moment there. :blush:

I'll just be in the corner dribbling...

:drool:

The highest F grade achievable at regional level is F2. But what Will says is correct. The winner takes F2 and then it's worked on percentages after that down to F5 grade.

Hi, I'm new to here. This 2wd off-road class looks appeal to me but apart from my experience in backyard bashing, I have little experience in racing.

Is there anything I need to know more regarding this class, especially with brushless motor and battery setup?

I am looking at AE RC10B4 buggy, would that do for a newbie like me?

Hi Andy,

I've entered the series via rcracecontrol.com - I just have a few questions

The series details 3 rounds with 2 to count and a trophy presentation on sept 22nd at Drop-In. Isn't Drop-In now hosting a race meeting? So shouldn't it be 4 rounds with 3 to count? Please clarify.

Can you pay on the day? Including Drop-In, full prepay entry for two classes wold be £96 (£112 inc. BRCA membership - that's 135 Euro) It's a bit much to be handing out in one lump

I want to pitch this series to the boys in the south and these questions will be asked, so I just want to be clear.

Well done getting it all sorted!

Will

Just to further the questions by Will, if payment in a lump sum is required could it be done via post dated cheques so that the money per event wont be taken out till the date of the event (or slightly before)?

Thanks for getting back to me Will.

The drop inn will only be as stated a trophy day and NOT a round of the championship because of issuses with the track size. So it will be a day ran as per club rules.

The events must be pre paid there will be no pay at track. This allows for organising of trophies etc and allows the clubs involved to set up the timing system before the event to save hassle. As for paying you DON'T have to pay for all races at once. I will be altering the closing dates to closer to the event date so this should make it easier for people.

Hope this has been of some help to you

Thanks
Andy

Hi Andy,

Sounds like a good solution. I'll enter round 1 now and await your updates before entering round 2.

Regards,

William

Not sure what all info u need but I help at the Craigavon club and if u send me a PM I'll help if I can. Would be best to get some club racing before committing to a bigger event.

Hi BarnettGS - Sorry, I missed your post or would have replied sooner. Great to hear of others interested in racing. I only got started a year ago after bashing around and can thoroughly recommend it. Very friendly bunch (mostly! :p) and lots of help.

There are a couple of places in go 1.10th off road racing up north, and a few more down south. All the ones that I have been to have been damn good fun.

I can recommend Drop-Inn racing every other Wed night as Eda has already said. Its a good environment to hone your skills and get some racing practise and experience. Let me know if you are going along, and I'll stop by to say hi. :)

Not at all. :)

From my youth, I have some experiences with a few electric kits including 1/10th touring car and an off-road Marder buggy and some nitro car/trucks. Now I have only one rc which is AE RC10GT2 nitro truck.

The last electric I had was over 10 years ago!

I am looking at RC10B4 RTR buggy because it is cheap enough for me to start the racing/bashing hobby and I hope it is ok enough for any club.

Just a couple of questions - Battery - which capacity/voltage is enough for all day racing, providing time for re-charging etc? And the standard motor which comes with RTR is 3300kV, would that be ok for a start?

Many thanks

Gary

Hey Gary,

The RC10 B4.1 seems to be a popular buggy at Drop-Inn with quite a few racing round every meeting, and much more than once Ive been amazed at how strong they are when they hit the walls! they seem to be built like tanks.

However, in my own opinion, the Reedy 3300kV motor is too slow for anyone but a complete newcomer. Im sure that because you have raced before, and bash around with the nitro that a more powerful motor might be better.
THe 3300 equates to roughly a 13.5 turn motor.
I believe alot of people seem to have good success with a 10.5 turn motor as this seems to give a good balance of flat out speed, and smooth, low end torque.

However, Im no 2WD expert, so "Eda" or one of the other 2wd maestros on here will shed more light.

As for batteries, go for your 2s Lipo and you wont go far wrong. Capacity wise, Im running 5400mAh and I can get about 2 races out of these, so I think anything over 3300mAh and you should easily have enough juice for a race, while not being too large that you cant get fully charged before the next race.
It also depends what fits in your car, and again, I dont know what batteries fit or not in the RC10.

For Drop Inn, the Reedy 3300kv is plenty. You've seen Pierce hurtling recklessly around with that motor, and the only thing he lacks is any regard for throttle control.....just nail the gearing and you're sorted.

A 2wd running a modest motor, or maybe even an 8.5T, which is the most I'd recommend for Drop Inn in 2wd, draws under 1500mah.

Carnim draws far more because a) he drives a 4wd, much less efficient, b) runs a 6.5T and c) is a ruthless throttle-masher :p

I WOULD LIKE TO TAKE OFFENCE AT THAT STATEMENT!!! :mad::mad::mad::mad:


....but cannot as its fairly accurate. :lol:

Great and if I find it lacking, I can always upgrade to more powerful motor later. :)

A last question - Would two packs of battery be sufficient for evening racing? I am looking at 5000mAh ones.

I still have not made up my mind yet whether to join in the racing or not but if I do, I hope to make it before the first round of the series.

Gary

Two 5000mAH might be sufficient for a full nights racing without charging.
They are CERTAINLY way more than the minimum if you are charging between rounds (which everyone does)

You definately want to come racing and join in. Its great fun, and with just that little competitive edge, it keeps it exciting. :thumbsup:

Hi Gary,

Best go down to racing for a look before you buy anything. You;d be surprised what bargains (2nd hand) might be on offer by club members.
1 pack of batteries will do you fine, you'll have enough time to cahrge them between races.

Will

One pack off bats did me for a long time but one of the last days at naul when u had the big jump i cudnt make it half way through they wer dieing i wud reckomend 2 or more but will get by with one if pushed

1 Battery is essential (for obvious reasons :P)
2 Batteries is a luxury which just basically affords you a bit more leeway should things start to get tight time wise.

If you have one battery I would stick with that for a while as it will be possible to race perfectly well on the one pack.

^^ That was me.

Cheers. I think I will start off with just one battery and see how it goes.

Let me know if there is any meeting at NIMCC or Drop Inn coming up soon. :thumbsup:

By the way, is NIMCC's website down?

Drop Inn Racing next Wednesday 29th Feb 7.00 - 10.30. See dropinnracing.com for directions etc.