SkyRc Toro
 

Im after a bit of help/advise please.

My SkyRC Toro 120 will cut out very intermittently.

Last night at Stotfold I lost throttle in the warm up before the final. The steering was fine, just no GOGO juice to move forward. This has happened about 3-4 times before. It normally just starts and goes ok, but last night I had to turn the radio off and on again. Once I did this it was fine, and didn't miss a beat in the final. The speedo has never been hot when this has happened, so over heating is ruled out.

So, I thought it may be my radio, but after talking to a mate who runs the same speedo, but a different radio and has had the same issue. His was fine last night though.

So, my question, has anyone had the same issue with a Toro. If so did you get to the bottom of it. If so what was it :)

I will add that mine is from RCMart, and my mates is from Schumacher. They were bought about a year apart from each other.

Thanks

I also had this happen . I enefed up taking it apart found it full of damp sand from the astro . Its been ok for the ladt few weeks but on sunday it decided to losse its calibration setting for the radio .if i recalibrate it works ok again ubtill its turned off ,took it apart again but this time it will not solve the problem.

I don't have that issue, I don't race when it damp, let alone wet :D:D:D.

I fixed it by turning the "over heat" and "low battery voltage" cut offs off. However, the esc/motor has never been hot or the battery run low :woot::woot:.

i have had this exact issue last week racing. its been the second time it happened at a race. 1st time thought it was a dodgy sensor wire coming out (which was part of the problem).
in the end i have replaced mine with a hobbywing.

my skyrc toro was bought this year from a uk seller

Try turning the lipo and heat cut off's off, it worked for me :)

Had the same issues with reventon pros.

I've been told the term is debounce, but i'm not a software person.
They don't have any.

Any momentary dip in voltage to less than the cut off level and it cuts out. So typically a big start, or a glitch in the voltage monitoring part of the circuit for any miniscule time, and the ESC goes into a low voltage mode.

Even looking at the reported voltage on the CANBUS of a £100000+ Tesla, it jumps around all the time, either side of the *actual* value. So no idea how good the voltage monitoring is on 10 dollars worth of hobby grade electronics.

The motor overheat and lipo battery cutoff is the first thing I turn off on any ESC when racing as quite often the Lipo voltage sags below the lipo cutoff and I find the software can cut in too soon. I only enable it when practicing to stop me taking the lipo down too low.

I had a strange issue with my aluminium Toro 120A ESC yesterday as I found that I had reverse even though the mode was for forward/brake only. It turned out that the throttle deadband was at 160 instead of 80 and I set the neutral, full throttle and brake point again which cured the problem.

i have this in the cold at a winter series, its because the battery is old and tired and cant hack the demand for powerrrr

Had the very same problem at Stotfold turned out to be lipos were on the way out, new lipos and no problem since.