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-   -   Anyone used Tamiya TA05 steering knuckles on an LRP Blast? (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80954)

graxon2001 19-09-2011 11:19 AM

Anyone used Tamiya TA05 steering knuckles on an LRP Blast?
 
These steering knuckles seem to fit the Blast fine, but when I tighten the wheel up fully, it doesn't spin freely, if at all.

Anyone else had issues with these?

Cr3Ad 19-09-2011 08:15 PM

i cant say ive tryed tamiya steering hubs ive just got the standard ones from the blast and they are a bit of an issue from the rtr mine jump out of the screws from the bottom and my dads did the exact same thing on the same side and it had been over tightened at the factory. ive looked at the maverick ones from the strada look very similar i just dont know if there stronger than the blast ones

graxon2001 20-09-2011 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cr3Ad (Post 555955)
i cant say ive tryed tamiya steering hubs ive just got the standard ones from the blast and they are a bit of an issue from the rtr mine jump out of the screws from the bottom and my dads did the exact same thing on the same side and it had been over tightened at the factory. ive looked at the maverick ones from the strada look very similar i just dont know if there stronger than the blast ones

Were yours always on the front left as well?

The TA05 ones are basically the same size and shape and seem to fit perfectly.

The CVD spins freely in the hand, but when the wheel is on, nothing. :blush:

colmo 20-09-2011 11:26 AM

When you put a wheel on, and it stops spinning freely when you tighten it, it is either because the wheel hex is too deep (solved by using washers to space it out or a deeper hex hub, or even sand down the wheel hex), or the pressure causes the hex hub to bind.

There are a number of solutions for the latter -
1. Use locking wheel hexes - these stop the hex hubs being forced onto the wheel bearing.
2. Find a suitable crush tube - this stops the inner and outer bearings from being pushed together
3. Sand down the back of the hex hubs, so the slot for the axle pin is shallower.

Note: These are generic fixes for the problem, I don't own a Blast!

graxon2001 20-09-2011 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by colmo (Post 556266)
When you put a wheel on, and it stops spinning freely when you tighten it, it is either because the wheel hex is too deep (solved by using washers to space it out or a deeper hex hub, or even sand down the wheel hex), or the pressure causes the hex hub to bind.

There are a number of solutions for the latter -
1. Use locking wheel hexes - these stop the hex hubs being forced onto the wheel bearing.
2. Find a suitable crush tube - this stops the inner and outer bearings from being pushed together
3. Sand down the back of the hex hubs, so the slot for the axle pin is shallower.

Note: These are generic fixes for the problem, I don't own a Blast!

:thumbsup: Good stuff. I just think it's the poor plastic quality is wearing the hex down. It's just odd that everyone has the same problem, and always with the same wheel. :o

Cr3Ad 20-09-2011 06:04 PM

i got the metal lrp hex very good and cheap compared to most metal hex and yes it was the left front ive got a feeling they are over tightened on the assembaly line just on that side i replaced it and just nipped up the screw in the new one and its perfect now no problems

graxon2001 20-09-2011 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cr3Ad (Post 556472)
i got the metal lrp hex very good and cheap compared to most metal hex and yes it was the left front ive got a feeling they are over tightened on the assembaly line just on that side i replaced it and just nipped up the screw in the new one and its perfect now no problems

Cheers for that :thumbsup:

I've been looking at getting some from Freeprawn. Looks like I'd better get my order in :)


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