Superstox Grumble
 

Superstox.
It looks great but when you try to install the electrics there are problems.
There is little choice but to have the esc sticking out beyond the chassis.

If i go racing without sorting this problem out I just know someone is going to head directly at an apex flat out, t-bone me and smash the esc to smithereens. Sod's Law guarantees it.

I had an idea of putting the ball joints on the top side of the hub arms and mounting the low profile servo upright and between the front wheels. This will give loads of space for everything!
Unfortunately there is a big square hole where the mounting posts would go.

So, I have a choice of making a bumper bar to protect the overhanging esc or cut a whole new chassis without a hole in it.

I know there are some Schumacher guys on here...
I would be prepared to buy another chassis without a hole in. I know you are not going to disrupt your manufacturing to humour a single customer. That would be mad. If however you felt so inclined during a spare moment, I would really dig it big time if you could send me a DFX of the chassis so I can machine a new one.

Cheers
Apricot

Try asking here https://www.facebook.com/groups/336445139755237/

If you that worried about your Speedo stick it on top of your servo, I have seen no damage to the cars I have seen race including both of mine. Sorry but your Speedo will get damaged if there was chassis under it, bumpers etc are higher than a chassis in a pile up.

Can you put the speedo stuck to the chassis on one edge?

Happened to mine. Knocked to caps of the esc but was able to repair at home.

Now that'a a :cool: link :thumbsup:

Thanks for replies guys. Wow, loads of interesting stuff on the Facebook page!

I could stand the esc on end or mount it on top of the servo but I'm too much of a tidy freak for that.

I will scan the chassis and re draw it rather than trouble anyone for the original.
When its made I'll post a pic.

you could put it in a potting box from maplin and wrap it in cotton wool :woot::thumbsup:

A simple resolution is to make a square a bit bigger than the ESC, stick that to the chassis then stick the ESC onto that?

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...s/IMG_0992.jpg

I mounted mine initially as in the picture, but have gone to the side as per standard due to air flow !

Yeah that would sort it a bit. Don't know why Shumacher didn't make the chassis stick out a bit where the esc has to go.

in order of preference..
Reposition the servo. ((low profile) remake chassis)
Machine a bumper. (probably use some existing holes)
Do what you said.
Just have it sticking out and drive like a pro. (not possible)
Mount on edge or on top of servo.

I think I'm just going to remake the chassis or I'll never be satisfied.
Unfortunately I have to put new rails and ball screws on the cnc router at work first.
Tapping them holes in the rails sure did give the taps a beating today. Hard stuff.

I can see how the air flow could be a problem.

[IMG]http://i471.photobucket.com/albums/r...8/IMG_0918.jpg[/IMG]

This is the plan.

Mine all fits no problems in the space between the steering turnbuckles and LiPo. Hobbywing Justock esc, Spekky SR3500 rx, KO 2413 servo and a MRT PT mounted on top of the servo.

No heat issues etc etc.

:thumbsup:

How are you guys getting yours hot and needing more air flow? My hobbywing 1s runs nce and cool at 65 mpr.
Why not use a fan for air flow?

What do you think would be best for chassis. 2.4mm thickness or 3.2mm?

Do you. Want to protect the Speedo or alter the handling?

I really don't see what you will achieve making a new chassis mounting you servo as you describe?

The car works great out of the box, with low-profile or 1/12th servo mounted in the stock position. There is plenty of room to mount the radio gear on the chassis without it hanging over the side. just look at the many examples of other peoples setups here or on the gt12 facebook group. mount your receiver in the position described in the manual, up front. This leaves plenty of space to mount the speedo without it hanging over. If it really hangs over that much, it must be a jumbo sized unit, and i'm sure it would be cheaper to replace it for a new £50 1S unit, rather than going to the time, cost and effort to remake the perfectly good chassis that comes with the kit.

Is that a rhetorical question? Presumably you are suggesting that 2.4 thickness would be best.

When I was wondering about chassis thickness I had in mind a vision of an old Mardave Mini (the one with no suspension at the back) doing wild bouncy flexy things.
In my mind, a rigid chassis is best because the part that you have control over is the spring. Anything else doing the bouncy business mars the results of adjustment. Although in practice, something more flexible may be better.. I am unsure.
My guess is that Schumacher have got it right.
I have ordered a piece of each thickness so may as well try both.

Its a regular sized esc and it does not fit. It just doesn't.

why not just buy the new core 1s speedo, small and will fit ok, and only £46 from mbmodels