Losi XXX CR2 Lowrider/Waterfall
 

Wee project.

Losi XXX CR2 Low rider/waterfall gearboxy thing.

Designed to take 22 2.0 innards.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...20shot%201.jpg



http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...apture%202.jpg



http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...apture%203.jpg

Cheers

Want :wub

I've a new xxxcr waiting to be built
Now I have to get one of my thes now
Stop making me spend money on my cars 😄

Small update :D

Since posting the first rendering. I have “refined” it a bit more (I think)
Also I have changed the waterfall slightly to take a B5M battery bar. Did also cross my mind to make it hinged but this works for now and means theoretically you can just but a B5M bar and use it. Also grooved the motor mount to aid cooling and generally chamfered lots of bits to make it look pleasing to my eye.
With the chassis opted for a hole were the gear box would go, as it would be cheaper to cut a hole that mill a pocket out then to protect the bottom of the gear box I have made a skid guard/small rear bumper



I have ended up with 2 possibility’s:

Normal as we shull call it. Basically when the low gear box is on the chassis there wasn’t quite enough room for a saddle pack. So I have just made the chassis/battery are abit longer, just enough to just fit a saddle pack in.
However after I finished it realised there isn’t much room for ESC and the stuff you need
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...m/GA%201_1.jpg

Click for 3D viewer -> https://skfb.ly/Twp7

I then looked to rectify this my making it longer (approx. the width of an ESC) my only concern with this one is that the wheel base may be wayyy too long.
On this version I have also pocketed out the would be 3D printed side pod bit so that brass weight can be added within them Think I will also do this to the above one, calso keeps print cost down.
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...iam/GA%201.jpg

click for 3D Viewer -> https://skfb.ly/TvZY

As I a way Farley happy with the gear box, that is now being printed in SLS Graphite plastic stuff (not via shapeways) via a similar website. Chose this stuff due to its graphite content should make the gear box a bit stiff and more durable that the standard plastic stuff (I presumed its not to dissimilar to the old losi graphite plastic)
in my haste to get it printed I have ended up print a MK1 (1st image) waterfall brace not latter one show in this post.

Once that arrived ill try and post some pics up, then ill set about

A: getting a proto chassis made in acrylic got a local guy who can laser cut one
B: Hack up my older/oldest CR2 chassis Drill a few extra holes in it and see what happens.

LLL

Got these this morning in the post!:woot:

overall very happy for my first proper attempt and a start to finish proces (design to manufacture)

Also very pleased with the material choice.i feel the graphite SLS will have better stregth properties

Cant wait to get home and start mocking it up.


http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...927_100859.jpg



http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...927_100922.jpg



http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...927_100937.jpg

Updates
 

So had some time this afternoon to take a closer look at the bits i had 3d printed.

i decided to make a prototype chassis to make sure

A. The 3d printed gear box fits/clears/bolts in

B.to get a feel for how low it would look

C.Get a rough handle on the wheel base of the thing.


This picture shows how much longer the chassis relative to the atomic extended wheel base chassis.
This is the negligible option as i wanted to try and keep it as close to a cr2 as possible. the other option i have is to make i quite a bit longer but would need to do a check to see if the wheel base would be ridiculous or not.
the extra length is needed to accommodate a saddle pack due the waterfall brace pushing a saddle pack further up the chassis.


http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...001_171459.jpg

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...001_190911.jpg

Also made a very "crude" motor mount (not my best unfortunatley) but again just to give an idea see were things were at.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...001_190735.jpg


http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...001_190720.jpg


http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...001_190605.jpg



http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...001_190556.jpg


http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...001_190743.jpg

The out come of it is.

Motor mount = fine.

Gear box- tweaks needed.Had to cut a 2mm x 1mm slither of the rear of the gear box to get it to sit in nice and how it should. will also need to relocate the hole were the screw goes threw the shock tower/gear box/shock tower.
as it does not quite line up.
Also going to address the side of the hole needed in the chassis where the gearbox goes into.now looking at it on and a psychical chassis i can play around wit the bulge on the gear box get it shrunk

other than that rather happy :)

Probably have to wait till next payday (snoreee) to get more bits printed and get the gear box internals.
Think i will complete the mock up then once happy get a chassis cut and should be straight swap(he ses)

CR2L is born!
(L is for Low or Liam...;))

woow, awsome work you did there !

I´m thinking of doing a lowrider for my 22 1.0 too.
Can you tell me what you payed for the gearbox as i dont want to spent too much money on it.

Thanks
Till

cheers till!

Got the gear box printed for around 31 quid inc postage

i used 3d hubs
https://www.3dhubs.com/
similar to shapeways.

upload your file, select your material (3d hubs has a wider materials choice)if id used the shapeway esque plastic would have been cheaper.

hope this helps

Sorry more updates....
 

So boltted the front end tonight.:thumbsup:

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...005_203036.jpg

Main reason for getting this on was to try and "approximate" the wheelbase.

have to factor abit of human error too.

stuck a dummy rear axle in (which was measured from the out side i might add not the centre) and the front was close as accurate quess witha tape measure.

i calculate it at 293mm if i was to half the rear axle prob be more like 291.5mm even 290.

this is better than i thought considering the wheel bases of below.

AE B6 - 280mm
TLR 22 3.0 - 280mm
PRS1 v3 - 285mm
Kyosho Rb 6.6 - 285mm
Kyosho RZ6 -295mm

So not million miles away. this was also measure with the rear blocks at there outter most position so there is scope to bring it in shorter as also i have seen a feont mod where it allows you to make the have a forward and reward position which are on a rather good rc website...;)

Could i think bring it right down to the 280mm mark just by sliding the gearbox/shocl tower block rearwards more and re jigging/tightening up the waterfall brace.

LLL

What about just designing it for a shorty?
Or do away with the waterfall and bring it on top of the batteries and use it to hold them in to?

Anyway, I can modify the drawing for the CF chassis when you're done :thumbsup:

G

A trick I use on my CR2 for a local tight track is to flip the wishbones. This shortens the wheelbase quite a bit ;)

i guess i was trying keep the approach felxible.as you say if you do away with the North south shorty option(down the middle) just keep it to east west shorty would be simpler.

Intrigued by your idea about using the waterfall as a batt brace.more like this kinda thing?
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...1cbfc32b4a.jpg

Oscar - top tip!cheers i fear tho mine my be in that position already?

Respect and esteem. Always admired people who are doing something and invent.

Yes, exactly like that :D

G

Little update,

gone a bit quiet latley due low on funds, decided to buying a house:woot: :eh?:

any way before this, sent a file away to be printed. it had been prited got an update that it had been posted on the 6/11 well it only nloody arived today (royal mail for you) obviously been on a detour some were

any way these are the bits i had printed.

I had the side bars printed,decided to intergrate the nut into the bar as "looks neater" and becuase i could.

Had some motor plates printed as the one id hacked out of a piece of plastic was no really doing what it should, also got some axle spacer to take the 10mm hex to 12mm.

The side bar are such that they no longer need bolt on the top holding them down like on existing cr2 with the layered side pods.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...33088978_n.jpg

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...89147385_o.jpg

Going to attmept to fit these bits and bobs on tonight and see what we get.

Also got to a point where i have revised the gearbox just waiting for some funds to get one printed up!going to order the internals see how it all fit fingers crossed that should be all with the gear box.

i am tweaking the water fall bracy thing and also exploring an idea northy suggested.

LLL

*

parts fitted yayee!

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...116_201256.jpg

*

Nice and low

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...116_201309.jpg

*

result of frivolus mirroring

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...116_201327.jpg

*

not much space.eek

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/p...116_201400.jpg



so well happy with how its all gone together.well happy with the wheel spacers.

a few thing need correctong but this is all part of the fun/learning process.
Things that looking at:

1.Far to frivolous with the Mirror command in cad and forgot/didnt account for a spur gear ao the right aode pod will need to be amended.

2.the Lipos i am using apart from being ancient seem very tall or this could be the reason they are so tall so nees to look into more detail about lipo height which once established can sort the waterfall brace out.

3.need to make the nut hole at the front tad bigger.

On wards we go

LLL

Cool project - I am loving the 3D printed parts/ test parts!

Where will the speedo go?

It looks a bit like the S2 Evo i built a few years ago, pic attached.

The joys of 3d printing :thumbsup:

im curious about the car to its side. got any pictures of that?

looks quite similar to this guys project
http://www.beatyourtruck.com/forum/s...-K2-(2wd-buggy)