Yeah, as in the word document I posted

NERCR Regional Set-up
 

see attachment

spoke to Dan and he suggested running the front camber links as E does. Car felt smoother after that.

Ran the green mini pins on the front as they were on the car for the damp start. As the day dried they stayed on as I still had the steering I needed.

Haven't got the alloy inner camber plates that the Team run on the rear though:(

thanks mr Stafford (the big E)
 

Just like to say thanks for the advise and help and the S.E regional
cheers:)

Attached is my setup from the outdoor regional at NECRC (Durham).

The track was grass though it was very worn in places. The car was really stable and excellent into all the corners, traction zones you had to be carefull picking up the throttle but I think everyone had to. If it was higher grip red springs on the back might be helpfull. For more steering I would have dropped a spring on the front.

Couple of great pics from Tel showing how flat the car looked through the first corner

http://www.telsshells.com/DSCF4072.JPG

http://www.telsshells.com/DSCF4174.JPG

This was my setup from Tiverton, heavily biased from Ellis setup so due respect there.

Now you may be thinking this is a clay only setup but the same setup works literally everywhere and it's so good.

For grass I intend to run identical except yellow minispikes with the outside and probably insode row off the front tyres. I ran something similiar to this by the end of last year and it was great then. Will be trying the car this Sunday at Batley so will report back any findings from there.

I destroyed the left rear corner of Jimmy's X6 at southport on Sunday (oOops). I replaced the 3deg rear block with a 4deg (cos it's all I had). It felt no different.
I've never run a car with as much rear toe-in.
Should I have expected it to feel different?
If so, in what way?

I think it should of helped with on power drive correct me if im wrong? after you changed it you car looked to have more rear end coming out of corners than my b4 (round 4 - pretty fricking wet).

Stu, I found a 3-deg block in my box last night, so remind me next time I see you to pass it on.

Stu, it's a subtle change but it just helps settle the rear end. As you say, if you feel no difference why not run the 4 for a while see how it goes, then go back to the 3 and see how it feels.

I remember Batley national last year the 4deg really helped in the traction zones when the grass wore away.

In the wet on Sunday (round 4) Graham reconed my car looked ood and I should have driven it harder. It was super stable into the corners, but pretty hairy on the power. In fairness I couldn't be arsed to change setup as I was expecting it to stop, and it did :)

Your car looked to be able to go much quicker than you were driving it Dan, but Jim and I agreed. I could really see the lack of pendulum (sp) effect round the sweeper at the end of the straight where I was marshalling.

G

Maybe I should have tried it at Tivvy, allthough the car feld good with 3deg. To be fair I was more interested in the hairy poo.

Hi all, does anyone have an Astro turf setup for the x6.

Many thanks

Leigh

read from post 9 onwards in this thread.

stop when you've reached this 1 :D :D :D

Here's mine from the national at the weekend at Bury.

E

Thanks Ellis.

:) Leigh, Surely any setup is dependent on the wheels being in contact with terra firma?
Only kidding big guy, is the X6 a result of seeing Jimbo's go, it was going really well last time I saw it at Coastal and by the sounds of it at Eastrax as well?:)

No needed a 2wd, didnt get on with the B4 so plunged for Trev's X6 went well, but I wasnt so had a bad day in all.

These are my setups from the recent regional and national for both my cars. I must admit to having a little local knowledge but had only been to the track 2 times this year before the national. Both cars were uber dialled, couldn’t be any better. I suggest anyone running on medium/highish grip Euro style tracks to give these a go !

Thanks Dan, really appreciated.
Are you really using 1/2 for the front shock position ? With those springs, pistons and internal limiting, shouldn't they be on the inside hole on the arms ?

I most often have the bottom in the outer hole, but the top normally in the middle. By rights I should take 1 or both the limiters out of the shocks but I never tend to bother. It’s not short of droop and was no problem over the bumps so was quite happy to leave it.

In the rear I always run the middle hole on the wishbone and vary between the original inner and the extra drilled hole. I actually ran both of these at the regional and national so didn’t differentiate on the setup sheet.