My Yokomo MR-4bx
http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/...xbak350035.jpg
http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/...xbak350018.jpg http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/...xbak350037.jpg http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/...bak3560011.jpg http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/...bak3560013.jpg http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/...ak35670045.jpg http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/...ak35670036.jpg http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/...xbak350029.jpg http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/...xbak350033.jpg http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/...xbak350013.jpg Chassis: Specialmade by Fibro-lyte (0.5.mm thicker than orginal and less holes in) Shocktowers: Doubble/6.5mm from Fibro-lyte Upper chassis: Special made 2.5.mm Lower arms: B-max BM-008R/BM-008F Sus.pin ball: B-max BM-300B Hinge pin rear: Piano thread 3*54mm Hinge pin front: Yokomo BD-5 BD-009BR (I have drilled the holes in the bulkhead to 3.mm) Plastic rod end: B-max BM206 Wheel hub front: B-max BM-011F Spur: Ass B4 #9653 84.t. (J.C. silent gear) Belts: Tough racing Front TRT B180 Rear TRF B181 Wing Mount: B-max BM-001 Mid pulley: ZC-671H (drilled) Diff.Balls: B-max ZD-505T Tungsten carbide Diff.Lube: Nuclear Diff.Thrust balls: ZS-507T Tungsten carbide Pinions: Tamiya TRF Shock caps: Ass #6443 Stablizer kit: B-max BM-412 (F and R) With custom made plate Front cvd axl: Team C. T04025/ Ansmann 125000942 (Blizzard) Rear Cvd axl: Team C. bone from #TU0233 + Yokomo B-max2 B2-010RA/B-max4 BM-010RAC (with the RAC you also can use the Losi 22 hex with no problems if you want). Or Losi tlr 22 rear axl/mip. Battery post: 3-racing Zx-5 |
That really looks nice.
What shock oils are you using and what surface are you running on |
I have one for sale whit new front arms mod and lots of parts for 100$ Canadien plus shipping just saying.
Den :thumbsup: |
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I drive with the white pistons/ 2#1.4mm holes front and the black 2#1.3mm rear and uses Losi oil 35-40 front and 25-30 rear. |
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I also have the Durango Dex410, but I drive the bx-ho ho;-) -It's so much smoother! |
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ohh
Nice work there Arne!
Razer! hohohoho go on!! |
Looks nice dude, really need to give mine a good rebuild one day.I would take the little rear gear box cover off though, I found it make the diff stayed cleaner for longer without the rear covered, lets the dirt pass straight through.
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Looks good. Is it possible to have some pictures of the modified layshaft pulley out of the car?
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I see what you mean. Since I drive on the astro, I never have any problem with dirt arround the diff-even if it's rubber or sand in the astrotracks. |
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The stablizersystem in the rear looks a bit advansed but actually it makes it more easy to change the belt and the diff.
It's less screws to remove! I bought some carbon on hobbyking and dremel the top of the rear. Now I can easly adjust the inner link up and down, just to remove or put in one of the carbonplates. It's ony 4 screws. :-) |
REO :-)
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http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/...cDes201111.jpg http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/...ofrDHI2012.jpg Some pic when I made it. I used some plastic between the pulleys. I have tighten it, I have no need of the one-way system. But I can of course loosen it if I need:-) |
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Den. |
http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/...3567890010.jpg
Put in the Nosram Pearl v.2/90905 esc. |
Sold mine to Naushad hope you have fun post pics of it wen you get it going bud i had a LRP SXX tc whit 10.5 Novak worked goood let me now wen it comes in.
Den. |
Hi
Thanks Denis... I will let you know.
I'm making electric adjustments to the bx I have now. I also need to fiddle with the shocks. I'm sure I'll get cracking on the bx you've sent me soon enough! Naushad |
Hello,
Have you done some adjustments or specific tooling to fit the Team C dogbones in front and rear ? Front cvd axl: Team C. T04025 Rear Cvd axl: Team C. T02058 And, using Bmax4 arms...does it change the wheels base or/and width? Lower arms: B-max BM-008R/BM-008F Bastos |
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