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-   -   RPM RC10 91 WORLDS (NEW BUILD) CARBON FIBRE TUB !! (http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=187893)

xfactor 21-02-2017 04:50 PM

RPM RC10 91 WORLDS (NEW BUILD) CARBON FIBRE TUB !!
 
Ok,

So after my RPM ULTRA MOLD BUGGY restore/clean up. Its been stated by so many that I could not match this build again. Or could I........:D

Back in 1991/92 I ran the RC10 Team Car. Then the RPM 91 WORLDS conversion came out.

This was a new front end and new rear which the rear needed cutting to allow the original width but longer arms.

I fitted this to my RC10 Team Car and never looked back. I also had the MAN fluorescent PINK chassis.......:woot:

Well I am about to build and BRAND NEW one from parts I have collected and also been sent by RPM them selves.

I have also been working on a first EDITION B Stamped RC10 chassis. This is a first EDITION because the 2 holes for the battery cup were re-drilled. Just like my original.

YES !!! Its fluorescent MAN PINK also ........:D

So will this build compete with the RPM ULTRA MOLD. We will see.

Pictures of the parts coming later of what RPM sent me and what Ive been collecting........:thumbsup::thumbsup:

xfactor 21-02-2017 05:23 PM

Research in to the RPM 91 WORLDS CONVERSION.
 
From the RPM ULTRA MOLD BUGGY first page. There was a little confusion in to why RPM put 91 WORLDS on this conversion, as back at the WORLDS in Detroit the STEALTH car was run.

Well after some research on this, it turns out both were used at the 91 WORLDS in Detroit.

The Team Drivers who did not run the STEALTH car ran the RPM Conversions.

They turned up at the track with RPM front ends made up and were bolted to the RC10 Team Cars and run at the 91 WORLDS. They were also said to have run with 15 degree castor blocks and the RC10T Bell-cranks.......

So there you have it. It was called the 91 WORLDS KIT because it was used at the 91 WORLDS............:thumbsup::thumbsup:

xfactor 21-02-2017 07:44 PM

Chassis Work
 
3 Attachment(s)
Chassis then,

You can see from the pictures that the chassis is cut down at the rear. This is because the RPM arms are longer than the original RC10 arms. This keeps the width the same.

Also you can see where the holes have been re-drilled by Team Associated to straighten up the battery cup from the A chassis. This is one of the early B stamped chassis as the later just had the 2 holes in the new position.

I have rubbed down the chassis, removed the black anodising, undercoated and went MAN PINK !! I have also filed the top edge back to the alloy to leave a rim around the top edge.........

Its hard to get a true colour, but it is Fluorescent PINK !!

CLICK TO ENLARGE..........

daz75 21-02-2017 08:53 PM

I think you may have confused pink with a man's colour :p

xfactor 21-02-2017 08:54 PM

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

Topcat Ron 21-02-2017 10:53 PM

That is an awesome colour dude....love it :thumbsup:

bigalbi 22-02-2017 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xfactor (Post 967853)
Chassis then,

You can see from the pictures that the chassis is cut down at the rear. This is because the RPM arms are longer than the original RC10 arms. This keeps the width the same.

Also you can see where the holes have been re-drilled by Team Associated to straighten up the battery cup from the A chassis. This is one of the early B stamped chassis as the later just had the 2 holes in the new position.

I have rubbed down the chassis, removed the black anodising, undercoated and went MAN PINK !! I have also filed the top edge back to the alloy to leave a rim around the top edge.........

Its hard to get a true colour, but it is Fluorescent PINK !!

CLICK TO ENLARGE..........

Hi, Did you spray yourself? If yes. what paint would you use for a durable finish (or is it pure shelf queen)?

xfactor 22-02-2017 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Topcat Ron (Post 967881)
That is an awesome colour dude....love it :thumbsup:

Cheers Ron,

I am pleased with the colour as fluorescents can be a pain to spray.

xfactor 22-02-2017 11:41 AM

Spraying Chassis.
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by bigalbi (Post 967903)
Hi, Did you spray yourself? If yes. what paint would you use for a durable finish (or is it pure shelf queen)?

Hi bigalbi,

Yes I sprayed the chassis. I used these paints in the picture. If you spray I would also lacquer it if to be used.

They also offer Fluorescent green, orange, yellow and MAN PINK.....:D

The same with Hydro-dipping needs lacquering if to be used.

Powder coating is an option also and is more durable than the other 2 options.

But with any colour when racing if its painted, anodised, hydro-dipped etc....
you gonna scratch it.....:wub

This will not be used its for the shelf as the main parts of this buggy you cant fined or buy............

CLICK TO ENLARGE.....

xfactor 22-02-2017 03:02 PM

Parts I have collected.
 
2 Attachment(s)
So here is some of the parts I've been collecting for this build......:thumbsup:

CLICK TO ENLARGE.....

xfactor 22-02-2017 07:21 PM

RPM parts !!
 
1 Attachment(s)
Some of the parts that RPM them selves sent me for the build.:D:D

Apart from the original B stamped chassis......

daz75 22-02-2017 07:30 PM

Any stickers in that lot ;)

xfactor 22-02-2017 07:59 PM

RPM Stickers and Parts.
 
1 Attachment(s)
Oh YES Dazza,

Original RPM Stickers curtesy of, Daz75 and RPM them selves.

A big thank you to both of them for helping me out......:thumbsup:

Also a few more RPM bits collected for the build........:thumbsup:

CLICK TO ENLARGE.......

xfactor 27-02-2017 04:54 PM

Stealth GEARBOX !!
 
3 Attachment(s)
While I'm waiting to lacquer the chassis, I decided to build the Stealth gearbox.

Back when I ran this buggy I had the HYDRA-DRIVE but to be honest I did not like it. I raced with others that did like it, but I went back to the standard slipper clutch.

But having one made me want one for this build.

So here is the original stealth gearbox with HYDRA-DRIVE fitted.......

CLICK TO ENLARGE.......

Topcat Ron 27-02-2017 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xfactor (Post 967911)
Cheers Ron,

I am pleased with the colour as fluorescents can be a pain to spray.

Did you base coat white first to really make it pop....?

xfactor 27-02-2017 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Topcat Ron (Post 968283)
Did you base coat white first to really make it pop....?


Hi Ron,

The chassis was originally black anodised. I removed the black anodising back to the alloy. Then a good wash, then 2 thin white undercoats, then the Pink was 3 light coats till I got the colour I wanted.

I'm going to try and lacquer it this week so will show again once lacquered....

Hope that helps Ron.......:thumbsup:

Topcat Ron 27-02-2017 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xfactor (Post 968296)
Hi Ron,

The chassis was originally black anodised. I removed the black anodising back to the alloy. Then a good wash, then 2 thin white undercoats, then the Pink was 3 light coats till I got the colour I wanted.

I'm going to try and lacquer it this week so will show again once lacquered....

Hope that helps Ron.......:thumbsup:

It certainly does....I know from resto'ing 80's BMX's it can be hard to get the real "in ya face" brightness of real flouro colours especially as the paints are a lot safer nowadays...Ie not as effective!!!.

Steve Ball 10-03-2017 10:33 PM

Hey Lapper, I can't see the photos. Its funny you are doing this build because me and Pickles were talking the other day and I told him about your RPM build and he said that he bought your RC10 off you :p

Can't wait to see it finished.

xfactor 11-03-2017 04:10 PM

Steveo,

Open ya eyes son.........:D:D:D:D

OOOOOOhhhhh The question is !!!

Has the little man still got it ??:thumbsup::thumbsup:

xfactor 11-03-2017 05:18 PM

Chassis Work.
 
1 Attachment(s)
So I Lacquered the top inside of the chassis. I will do the bottom and sides this week.

I only did the top inside to see if there was a reaction with the paint. There wasn't so all good.

CLICK TO ENLARGE.........


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