My Yokomo MR-4bx
 

http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/...xbak350035.jpg
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http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/...bak3560011.jpg
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http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/...ak35670045.jpg
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Chassis: Specialmade by Fibro-lyte (0.5.mm thicker than orginal and less holes in)

Shocktowers: Doubble/6.5mm from Fibro-lyte

Upper chassis: Special made 2.5.mm

Lower arms: B-max BM-008R/BM-008F

Sus.pin ball: B-max BM-300B

Hinge pin rear: Piano thread 3*54mm

Hinge pin front: Yokomo BD-5 BD-009BR (I have drilled the holes in the bulkhead to 3.mm)

Plastic rod end: B-max BM206

Wheel hub front: B-max BM-011F

Spur: Ass B4 #9653 84.t. (J.C. silent gear)

Belts: Tough racing Front TRT B180

Rear TRF B181

Wing Mount: B-max BM-001

Mid pulley: ZC-671H (drilled)

Diff.Balls: B-max ZD-505T Tungsten carbide

Diff.Lube: Nuclear

Diff.Thrust balls: ZS-507T Tungsten carbide

Pinions: Tamiya TRF

Shock caps: Ass #6443

Stablizer kit: B-max BM-412 (F and R) With custom made plate

Front cvd axl: Team C. T04025/ Ansmann 125000942 (Blizzard)

Rear Cvd axl: Team C. bone from #TU0233 + Yokomo B-max2 B2-010RA/B-max4 BM-010RAC (with the RAC you also can use the Losi 22 hex with no problems if you want).
Or Losi tlr 22 rear axl/mip.

Battery post: 3-racing Zx-5

That really looks nice.

What shock oils are you using and what surface are you running on

I have one for sale whit new front arms mod and lots of parts for 100$ Canadien plus shipping just saying.

Den :thumbsup:

I'm basically driving on astro here in Norway. We have a lot of good astrotracks here now;-)

I drive with the white pistons/ 2#1.4mm holes front and the black 2#1.3mm rear and uses Losi oil 35-40 front and 25-30 rear.

I have a lot of bx-parts in stock, if I didn't-I would have bought yours, no doubt! :-)
I also have the Durango Dex410, but I drive the bx-ho ho;-) -It's so much smoother!

Interesting:P

ohh
 

Nice work there Arne!

Razer! hohohoho go on!!

Looks nice dude, really need to give mine a good rebuild one day.I would take the little rear gear box cover off though, I found it make the diff stayed cleaner for longer without the rear covered, lets the dirt pass straight through.

Looks good. Is it possible to have some pictures of the modified layshaft pulley out of the car?

I can take some more pic tomorrow;-)

Thanks!

I see what you mean.

Since I drive on the astro, I never have any problem with dirt arround the diff-even if it's rubber or sand in the astrotracks.

Yes man, very interesting! Bring it to Lørenskog;-)

The stablizersystem in the rear looks a bit advansed but actually it makes it more easy to change the belt and the diff.

It's less screws to remove!

I bought some carbon on hobbyking and dremel the top of the rear.

Now I can easly adjust the inner link up and down, just to remove or put in one of the carbonplates. It's ony 4 screws. :-)

REO :-)

http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/...cDes201112.jpg
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Some pic when I made it. I used some plastic between the pulleys.

I have tighten it, I have no need of the one-way system. But I can of course loosen it if I need:-)

Pics are gone sorry for the delay bud I was out of town for buisiness.

Den.

http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/...3567890010.jpg
Put in the Nosram Pearl v.2/90905 esc.

Sold mine to Naushad hope you have fun post pics of it wen you get it going bud i had a LRP SXX tc whit 10.5 Novak worked goood let me now wen it comes in.

Den.

Hi
 

Thanks Denis... I will let you know.

I'm making electric adjustments to the bx I have now. I also need to fiddle with the shocks.

I'm sure I'll get cracking on the bx you've sent me soon enough!

Naushad

Hello,

Have you done some adjustments or specific tooling to fit the Team C dogbones in front and rear ?

Front cvd axl: Team C. T04025
Rear Cvd axl: Team C. T02058

And, using Bmax4 arms...does it change the wheels base or/and width?

Lower arms: B-max BM-008R/BM-008F

Bastos