TM2 Top Team Tips
 

Hi all,
This has all been mentioned before but with a lot more TM2's out there being used now from the second batch I'll refresh the info :thumbsup:

Top Tip:
BEFORE you plug in your lipo dremel or file away the battery brace around the area where the connectors enter the lipo, you will need to remove around 2 or 3mm of the carbon brace. Don't be worrying about strength, this thing is beyond overkill for holding in the lipo so cut away more than you need (better safe than sorry). When you've finished mark the end so you know which way round to fit it in the car. :thumbsup:

Top Tip:
Team C have blessed us all with tapered pistons as standard items in the kit, be careful when building the shocks as the instruction manual shows them the wrong way up. The taper should face down the shaft towards the thread :thumbsup:

Top Tip:
When assembling the rear top deck there are two small spacers that fit under the deck on top of the alloy centre assembly. These are easily lost when working on the car at the track. To avoid dropping them, super glue them to the top deck. :thumbsup:

Top Tip:
If you want a more planted rear end to the car try using the 1 degree alloy rear hubs from the TC02c. To use these you will need to also use the pivot pins from the 2wd family and ream out the hole in the wishbone to accept the larger pin. :thumbsup:

Top Tip:
To create more flex (more grip) cut through the rear top deck with a dremel. :thumbsup:

Top Tip:
Remember that BOTH the blocks that hold the rear pivot pins in place (one in front and one behind the gearbox) can be turned upside down to give more or less anti squat. You can also add spacers under these for even more adjustment as required. :thumbsup:

Top Tip:
The two screws that hold the motor clamp in place need to be TIGHT so my tip is to replace them with cap head screws that you can really crank up tight. :thumbsup:

Feel free to add more of your own TTTTTTT (TM2 Team Top Tips To This Thread);)
Alec

Cheers Alec for the tips am just building my new car so very useful!
Also Iain Mellish recommends drilling another hole in the rear wishbones for more droop and grip for outdoors.
Am enjoying the build so far hope it's ready for Sunday :-)

Also

1. Change kevlar spur gear to standard nylon or RW Racing

Alec, we, as in Team C, have 1 dergree hubs for the T4 and TM2 now. Stephen sent them to me a few weeks back and they work great. A little expensive, but very nice indeed. They also come with bigger bearings and carbon top, like the AE ones. Si no need to buy new ones if the ballstud breaks inside the hub…

So far I have only tried them on my T4. Next week I will also do some testing with the TM2.

Cheers,
Zack

We drilled the inner hole initially to try and get some extra grip in low grip conditions but it also helps soak up ripply bumps very well, I think the standard inner hole leaves the shocks too laid down for my liking outoors....I don't think I'd evr run it on high grip carpet. I think it's fairly easily done and just gives an extra option :)

How much farther in are you drilling the hole? thanks

I tried shimming my diff as per the video but it felt really tight and felt like it was binding a but. I just did it as per the manual and I haven't had any issues but it makes more noise than I expected.

It's been drilled at the same distance apart as what the original inner and outer positions are....sorry if that's a bit vague!

I forgot to mention that with the shocks on the drilled hole position you actually get too much droop, to the point where the drive shafts can almost come out of the out drives....we have put some limiters in the shocks to counter this, not sure if this has any other adverse effects, I don't think so! : /

Reducing travel will reduce weight transfer - it will add a little off power traction.

Hows the car going James?

Did a little testing last night, corners really fast and holds line well. Still don't have all the parts I need and haven't got a shell so was a bit of a cobbled together practice to just turn shake it down and turn the wheels.. Drilling an inner hole of rear wishbones as Ian has done is a definite improvement.

as I put on other post found out last night when I was looking at rear shock towers, the carbon one as wing and shock holes 3mm higher than kit one. this came about as we wanted to move the holes and john j lent me a carbon one at grantham sunday.
then ant brought car round last night and we compared them and found out they where diff even on standard one the drive shafts catch slot in cup on up travel

what parts do you want only ones we have on our car are b4 wheels and cougar front hubs

This shock tower issue wont be a problem for anyone who's bought one as an upgrade. They are an identical fit to the TM2 plastic one.

The issue arose because I lent Glyn one off my T4 (the standard part) thinking it would be the same, but it isn't!

So the moral is dont use a T4 standard kit part on your TM2 lol

I've got the schuey front hubs but the outer ballstud arm is so high the amount of bumpsteer it gives is crazy, probably getting on for 15-200degrees at full travel, I've dremelled it down by 2mm which has helped but really need the proper adapters.

Need a spur as the standard one stripped in about 2 minutes. Waiting for a shell to be sprayed too. And some springs, I tried standard and core rc and found standard front hard and med rear the best.

James, the RW spur is bullet proof.

Agreed unless you get sand in it :mad:

James! Nice to see you with a Team C!

I just tried my TM2 for the first time last week. I finally have a astro-turf track near my house... so I will be doing a lot of testing.

Why are you guys putting shumacher front hubs on?

Im using b4 hubs with cougar axles (practically same as cougar hubs) it narrows the front track width to allow to fit in the BRCA scrutineering box

also the kit setup dosent give as much lock as the b4/cougar hubs

paul

You can use the TM2 hubs with RB5 WC axles which gets it in the box but you need to put a slight chamfer on the wheel hex to stop it binding up..