supastox speed help
 

hi, I ran my supastox for the first time, and I was being over taken by pretty much everyone down the straight and round most long corners,
im running 70t diff, I tired 26t,31t&35t pinion and still slow,
im running 1s turnigy one cell gen 2 and turnigy 13.5
any help please

Have you checked your end points on your radio are set to 100% for full throttle. Then you may need to rebind your radio to teach the esc again

Did your car get faster top speed when you went to a bigger pinion or did it make no difference.

it was better with the 35t on but still a lot slower,
I will reset and check the end points and reset the esc and take it from there
what gearing should be best, a lot were running 66spur ?

With gearing it's best asking what others run to get you in the zone. Also depends on what diameter your rear tyres are as the rollout and gearing are a combo.

A few things to consider...

If the change of ratio makes little difference - what is the timing on the motor? In a GT12 try around 40deg assuming that zero on the markings at the back really is zero.

Cells - how old are they? If they've seen a bit of action the internal resistance might have gone up to the point where they don't deliver the volts. If you can try someone else's cell with the same settings as when using your cell it will give you a clue.

Although you've been up and down the pinions, what size tyres are being used? Assuming that you are using 46mm diameter tyres (my best guess!) then...

On a 26T pinion that is 53.6mm/rev - too low. On a 35T pinion that is 72mm/rev - arguably a little high but if you have no timing on the motor it would explain why you saw little change in speed. On 40deg timing aim for 68mm/rev to start with.

The evidence you have given us points me to the motor timing, cells or the end-points issue already suggested above. Come back with more information and we'll help some more!

Have you made any adjustments to your speedo?

Im only a newbie to gt12 myself with my sons car, he had a similar prob

After asking lots of question from lots of people was adviced to adjust the timing up on the motor but keep an eye on the motor temp as you dont want to overheat it, and turn up the punch settings in punch1 and punch2 to max which was 30 on his speedo (toro)
The other thing we were told was to disable drag brake, cos you want to carry as much corner speed as poss, hence you dont want the drag brake slowing you down. if you need to brake you need to do it yourself conciously.
As also stated above, talk to the club members pick there brains find out what roll-out they run for your track, there the best people to ask and most people ive come across have been great and more than willing to help.

HTH's
Shiny.

If your motor is the newer red one then these are the settings:

motor - full timing (endbell rotated as far anticlockwise as it will go.

esc - boost 0, turbo 0, 1st and 2nd stage punch 30, 1st and 2nd stage brake 25, drag brake 0. Leave other settings alone. *You need the program card to do this.

gearing - around 68mmpr. That's a 30t pinion, 70t spur and 50mm tyres. Go up 1t on the pinion for every 1.5mm drop in tyre diameter

don't expect it to be as fast as the top end motors

thanks for the replys, ive got got tyres on now, motor timing fully turned, ive changed the sensor lead, reset the end points and just waiting for the controller to arrive this week because I borrowed on last meeting, hopefully all be well im trying it Friday night so I will post back after ive tested it, I know its a cheaper setup but being over taken and left behind on the straights and round long corners cant be right, so hopefully will be there abouts

Not a long wrong with the Turnigy motor for club use, a friend of mine did a back to back test between the Turnigy and his £70 GM motor and there was hardly anything in it. He said the GM felt ever so slightly sharper but it looked exactly the same to me and the lap-times were very very close to each other. He has modded (dremelled) the timing ring on his motor so is probably running 40+ degrees, still not generating much heat in it but keeping up with the fast guys in terms of speed.


Good advice here on both speedo settings and motor timing, remember to calibrate your new speedo when you get it and you'll be OK

Apart from the motor and dremelling make it an a gal motor only fit for club use

They're no far off though, you'll notice near to no difference between them on a big straight.

Like others said, check your end-points (note some go to 150%, so if you have it set to 100% you're only getting 2/3's of your power), reset-up the ESC, full timing on the end bell and you'll be well on your way :)

Straight line speed is also a lot to do with the speed you get off the last proper corner before the straight. Too many people complain they get passed on the straight and need more speed without looking at the corner speed of the car that just passed them.

Back in the days when I could drive a Modified 12th car, I used to practice at the Chesterfield club. Andy Griffiths, multiple UK National Champion was also there. With a 6.5 motor in my car, Andy would lap me twice in an 8-minute heat driving a 10.5 motor. Guess who was faster down the straight!!

If you gave your Turnigy-powered car to Mark Stiles or Chris Ashton, they would be lapping you even if you were driving their car. The great thing about pan cars is that if you can drive you can win - and no amount of money spent on the best kit will allow you to beat the best drivers if you can't drive. Yes, a faster motor will get you a couple of tenths on the straight, but you will piss that up the wall by missing the first corner apex.

Get the Turnigy to the best speed you can by working through timing and ratios until you have it sorted. Check every adjustment against the clock, not the speed gun. If you are still not the fastest down the straight, try being fastest through the corners! ;)

tested the car last night, found the problem, I had a faulty NEW sensor cable!!!! only found by accident but problem solved,
thanks for all the help :thumbsup:

No point what so ever being the fastest down the straight by half a second and loosing a tenth on each of the ten corners due to no torque or grunt

Just to stop confusion for people reading this. Even if your transmitters end point goes to 150%, you can have it set to 100% as long as you configure your esc with it set this way. If you do this, you will get 100% throttle.

Why not? My car is every bit as fast as the expensive kit at my club.

Good news. Enjoy your value power :-)

Ive recently purchased a GT12, another newbie to the sport.. And what a car, and what great excitement it produces.. I went over to Rayleigh RC Racetrack, for anyone looking for a word class, and I never use this phrase, facility; you must go. Its in Rayleigh in Essex and you can turn up, drive and practice away...

Anyway, I digress..

I have a Dynamite dps 13.5T motor, with a Toro 1s 120A Esc, and my goodness, what speed this car has. I am racing for the first time after at West Kent RCC on the 22nd of March..

Regarding the ESC, I have applied the settings advised in this thread, and crikey, the punch has really turned up the acceleration and the top end speed is unchanged, thanks for now giving me a rocket that now accelerates like bullet. Can I confirm that I abiding by the BRCA Blinky guidelines?

Any other help or advice would be extremely welcomed in advance to my forthcoming trip to West Kent.

Have a lovely evening,
Best Wishes

Stuart

Exactly...

Mark seems to quite like to disagreeing with most people!