Picture of the shock mod to prevent big bores leaking. Double up the O-rings on the outside of the shock cap.

http://www.me-or.com/media/ansmann/a...ock_mod_V2.jpg

X4TE Build Tips
 

Hi
As the Ansmann Team is expanding rapidly at the moment I thought it would be a good idea to set up some threads for build tips for both the X4 and X2C. I know there is advice dotted in threads through out the section, but it will be easier if we can consilidate into one thread and hopefully make it "sticky".

Anyone who has built and run one of these cars is welcome to post in here with any suggestions they have for the initial build of the cars as well as any modifications they may have made to improve on track performance or reliability.

thanks

okay just built the car, overall very straight forward, have listed a couple of points to help.

1. Pre compress diff spring prior to building. You will find after this it will return to a length 1mm shorter than when new.
2. Shimming diffs, buy some extra shims every moulding will be slightly differant and i had to use at least 3 shims in each box. The shims on the gear side should be done first to set the mesh then shim the opposite side to take up any slack.
3. Use any good brand of silicone diffs on the diff rings and balls and a quality black grease on the thrust race.
4. Before building the diffs use some degreaser to remove the transit grease, this prevents lubrication in areas you don't want and stops the diff grease you put in from getting contaminated.
5. As Simon mentions if you are running an increased amount of anti squat the don't forget to trim the area under the input shaft moulding and around the sides by the outdrives to ensure clearance for the wishbones and the pivot block.
6. When building the shocks wrap a layer of PTFE tape around the threads to prevent leaking.
7. Use longer 10mm counter sunk screws on the inboard mount to compensate for the threads running through the anti squat spacers.
8. OPTIONAL, To ease any stress in the diff gears i have allways done the following.
i) put them in a bowl
ii) pour boiling water over them
iii) allow to cool
iv) dry and fit as usual

I'm building one at the moment and have been held up by some really niggling things (like rock hard plastic vs butter soft screws)

My latest issue is: the suspension arm mounts (which the shock towers mount to) are listed as being identical but they aren't, are they? One has much more of lean than the other. I'm guessing the front shock tower is meant to lean inwards - not the rear?

yes, the front one will lean backwards, the rear is vertical. The manual does have a couple of things like that which aren't made very clear. They will be obvious to seasoned racers, but newcomers may not be sure.
Good job we have Oople for all the questions!

Thanks. Has anyone else had the issue with the screws being rather soft? I've got some spares from other cars that work fine so have used them where possible but I have stripped the hex heads on 3 of the kit ones. I'm not a total newbie either and one of my fellow YORCC members has had the same issue.

It's about the only real criticism - well that and the vague instructions.

I haven't found them soft, but i have had a couple where the head wasn't moulded properly.
I think a good quality Hex driver makes things easier. You may want to pre-tap the plastic with an M3 screw, preferably a cap head so you can use a 2.5mm driver.

Hi. Yup, that's exactly what I've been doing: using a cap head (2.5mm) screw to tap the thread first. The driver I've been using is a Schumacher, so it's pretty good.

It's not a major issue, more of a pain in the backside but it's quite telling that I can grab another screw - like one from my LRP Blast - and it goes in fine.

Nice kit though!

One question: what's the exact order of building up the components in the bottom of a shock? The instruction give every part the same number.

I'm going with (from bottom up): O ring on outside of cap, small white washer, red o ring, large white washer, red o ring, small black washer.

That sound ok?

Yeap, that right. You will need to double up the washers on the outside of the cap, our wind PTFE tape around the thread a couple of times to make a better seal. Our the can leak a tiny bit. The first picture in this thread shows the double o ring method

Daft question no. 354: what's the pitch of the spur / pinion ?

48dp

Hi all.
Just bought a set gear diffs for my X4TE. Maybe some of you have experience with these and able to give some advice on installing and setting them up....

X4TE stockists
 

Where can I get one of these?

SMD do them:

http://www.smddirect.co.uk/tu0438-ge...-buggy-t4-1309