trf511 vs dex410
 

trf511 vs dex410 anyone have tried both and your oppinion
would be really appreciated
the price and parts support doesn't make a
difference since i will have parts in stock!!
thanks
pete68

Ah...

Well, I own a 501x and am very happy with it. (A 511 would just be less hassle with maintenance.) Though, honestly, the DEX410 does look like the future. So much less maintenance required and it's a completely different sort of platform. Built from the ground up for modern racing. Having said that, the Tamiya is still very good. (After all, just look at the 2009 EFRA results, they also run pretty well out of the box.)

In my opinion, they're so vastly different that they're barely worth comparing. (Like iPhone and Blackberry: they both do different things so well, it's more of an instinct and personal taste sort of thing.)

Unfortunately, I haven't tried a DEX410, so obviously biassed towards the Tamiya. Though I can see why so many people are opting for the DEX410!

I owned a TRF511 and it was the best 4wd I have ever had the pleasure to drive. Then came the DEX410 and I just had to have one.
Can honestly say that it doesent matter what car you buy. Two of the best cars in the market. Everything else feels like toys.
The TAmiya has got some amazing corner speed on graveltracks and the dex seems to do the job just as good. Havent had the chance to try it out really yet on gravel. Love my dex and loved the trf511 too. A must is the diffcover of Fredrik Emilsson.
What ever you want it is two top of the line machines.

I have to say I really like my 501x worlds car, but I do tend to drive my B44 sometimes as well depends who shows up with what. The Dex410 looks really awesome looking, but I do tend to prefer parts support over anything else. And it's easy to get parts for my 4wd buggies. The Dex410 wouldnt be so hot for me because I live in the United States. People at my tracks either run the B44 or the Kyosho Lazer ZX5 FS. I'm the only one with a 501x now, so I
guess that makes me feel kinda special to have a car nobody else runs.:thumbsup:

I too would really like to know the answer to this question as well...

I've had the CAT SX, B44, TRF501, and now the TRF511. I'm curious about the DEX...There is a big price difference here in the USA between the DEX and every other 4WD.

For the US style tracks I've run, I've found the B44's front end to be too fragile, the CAT SX too twitchy. Took way too much work to get it to handle well and stripped spur gears.

The TRF501 handles great and in the two years I've raced it, only broke a couple parts that were my fault.

The TRF511 handles great but the standard arms are weak and break constantly...

I want to know if the DEX is the shiznits....

TIA

Simple fix for that Bushy... use your 501X arms on your 511. I did that when I built my 511 and not one broken arm yet.

yes you can do that but be carefull, if you get a heavy inpact with the 501x wishbones it can bend the alloy parts, I tend to use a db01 wishbone set there stronger than the 511 but weaker than the 501x;)

Also, the harder arms will bend the hingepin if hit hard enough, so keep one in spare just in case.

Hinge pins can bend, yes, but they are cheap. A package of 4 pins are about $2 USD.

STFU....MOVING ON...

Now to really answer your question...I owned both cars. I cant tell you this. Maintenance on the dex410 will save you time. You can change diff oils replace the diff and adjust the slipper in under 15 mins if you were determined to do so lol. With the tamiya cars it used to take me a real long time to get to the spur or the diffs. Also the ball diffs were a huge hassle. Are they too tight, are they too loose. It gets old. BUT...they both handle very well. I can honestly say, that the dex does everything well. On outdoors and indoors. so thats versatility. On outdoor tracks with the 501 I had to replace belts and rebuild diffs after every run. In the durability dept. the R version of the DEX has a weak point with the front plastic brace. Get the ally one and ur good. Arms never brake, hinge pins never bend, shocktowers never an issue. Only thing to worry about is the drive shaft pins. Read on durangos tips to build those right. 501/511...Arms do break and with that pins will always bend. rear wing mount is a joke and always gets loose. shock towers are surprisingly strong, never broke one. body looks amazing. it looks stunning in all aspects but is a bit fiddly when it comes to maintenance issues and arm/ hinge pin breakage. I remember I had to stock up on pins and arms all the time. as well as front shock shafts. Rear wheel wobble is also an annoying thing and the 12mm hex conversion made it handle worse in every way.

when properly set up and if driver skill is not an issue, then both are remarkable on the track. I really enjoyed my 501, even though you are discussing the 511, its not far off. The reason in the end that I sold my 501 was the maintenance issue. Too much going on. No matter how well you wire you motor leads or servo wires one day something will come loose and catastrophe will strike. I once had my servo mounts come undone and since they run parallel to the front belt, the belt got caught on it and snap! lost the race...DNF.

Not saying the shafts in the dex dont get in the way, but they will not cause such a huge problem. and as I said...removing the spur is literally seconds...removing the diffs...4 screws. You just cant get that with ANY other buggy.

Yes I know this is a late reply but I felt the need to add to it for any future inquiries.

The belts last a very long time (half a year if you race every weekend) if you adjust it properly. Mine is 1,5 years old and only on its 2nd rear belt. Front is the same.

Also, how the hell did you manage to have a servo mount come undone?!? The things are made in plastic and impossible to come undone once screwed in.

To me it sounds like operator error big time.

Nope...def not an operator error my friend. I know the belts are strong but if u go out on a US style track with dirt everywhere and debris...belts will be the death of the car and ur pulleys. And yes the servo mounts do come undone and I was advised to go aluminum and thread lock it to stay in place...and this was fro ma team driver out here in the states.

I also ran on the same track with a cat sx. We both always had the same problem. REPEATEDLY

I run outdoors all the time, I haven't got any issues with the belts or constantly needing to rebuild the diffs on my 501. I am using the newer, more durable, drive belts that come with DB01R and 511.

I agree that the 511 arms brake easily, but to brake a 501 arm you really have to try, like drive full throttle at a concrete wall...

Pins might bend and arms might brake if you hit that concrete wall, though :)

As for 511, the arms brake more easily and thus the pins don't bend as easily as in 501.
Ever heard or seen or read what might happen to a DEX when a pin comes loose from the drive shaft...? Yes, it is what you could describe as a huge problem (flame out :thumbdown:). And yes, it does happen. For the newer models this problem should be sorted, though.

The Cat SX belts are not very strong (regardless of surface), I'll agree with you on that, but the belts on the 511 is a lot better.

We race on any surface, in any weather, and have not heard or seen what you report at all. Thats why I'm hard pressed to believe you.

LoL...Yes lipo explosions...if you dont follow the tips they give you. Newer models are fine. My car is perfect. As for newer drive belts that are stronger maybe...but dude those of you who tell me you dont break a-arms on ur 501/511/db01s must be delusional. I found the 501x versions were strongest, the 511 "high traction" arms were, for lack of a better word, pathetic examples of an a-arm and the db01's were ok but due to the added flex, they broke too. I dont drive like an idiot nor do I bash. And these parts DO break. Theres even a video on this thing on youtube, I think rclazy something or other posted it. Its a weak point guys, its a fact. I never said the car sucked. It handles great. But maintenance wise...cmon...how many screws to access your diff? lol Remove top deck, remove front shocks, remove camber links. cmon. I know this is a hobby but driving more and fixing less its where its at. ;)

Also to access/change ur spur...you have to go through the same song and dance...Uhhh pull a clip theres ur spur on a rango :)

Hey man, to each his own. I dunno your track conditions, But I know whatIve experienced. Running on an indoor carpet or astro...I had no issues. Outdoors with some dirt or indoors too for that matter...pulleys got chewed up, small rocks got inside the rear diff all the time. I mean guys if something can go wrong it will. And I even had the rear optimized diff cover. :thumbdown:

FYI, access to diffs on the 511 is 4 screws front and rear. Access to the spur gear is 4 screws and a trick to remove the layshaft assembly without having to loosen anything else.
And yes, the 501 arms are nearly indestructable.

Yes Ive heard the 511 is way easier to maintain. But you know what they say..fool me once shame on u fool me twice....eh u get it lol. I just had to go with my gut when I bought my new car.

I know the trick to remove the layshaft and it was a hassle still. Dont get me wrong I loved ALL of my tamiya rides cuz when they were on point they were on fire. But there was always this nagging thing at the back of my head as if I was waiting for "the moment" it all went wrong.

I started with a fully hooked up DB01. It had every option known to man on it. I had so many spares from the stock kit I actually built a second one and gave it to a friend to come race with me. Each of us always had the same problems. Needless to say because he was strictly a 1/8th scale guy, this first experience with electric turned him off to it.

Bottom line...it just has to work right the first time. A broken arm here or there, a broken c hub, or even a broken shock tower is FINE with me. but drive line issues? sorry Ill pass.