Questions
:thumbsup:Hi guys,
Been a little while, but thought i would ask if anyone has any questions they want to ask me? i try to read all the threads, but sometimes i loose track with being away so often. Thanks Lee |
can i get at least a baseline setup for a med/high grip indoor clay tracks. we're using aka rebars, barcodes and bk bars for tires. and as far as the rear aluminum hubs go, what differences will i see from 0-0.5-1deg?
your a champ Lee :thumbsup: |
Lee have you had anymore chance to test the 502 ?
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There is a thread on here about a trf511 LME ( Lee Martin Edition)
Do you think this will happen if...... I meen WHEN you WIN the worlds. :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup: |
511 gearing for Oswestry on a SP 5.5 V3.0 and a GT2.0 speedo would be handy !
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Hi Lee,
First off I want to express my thanks for your willingness to share your setups and tips with all your Tamiya buggies - must say that I've enjoyed my TRFs with your tips to experiment with. I'm trying to get my TRF201 to work on the outdoor clay track that we run locally and I was wondering if you could share a little bit more about how you go about using weights to tune your car - e.g. when to put weight where and why... Would go a long way in helping me get some better laptimes. :) Thanks. |
Hi Lee,
It is happy to see this topic. I am a your fan and Tamiya fan. I hope you will get the title of world race winner. I want to know that do you know whether Tamiya have had any plan for new top grade buggy model? Thanks |
Hi Lee, please drive more with the 502x :thumbsup:
It seems to have been forgotten?? Keep up the good work, everyone is rooting for ya!:thumbsup: |
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Are there any plans to release updated versions of the 801X and XT?
It seems you have done a fair bit of modifying these to help you in America. I have tried the +4mm wheelbase and I found it to make the car completely different, so looking forward to see what else you do. Cheers Scott |
Hi Lee,
this is very kind of you. :thumbsup: I have 2 qeuestions for you: 1) Some set up guide line for TRF201 on dirt hard packed low traction tracks. 2) Next year i'd like to go nitro and since i'm "Tamiya only" i'll go for a TRF801x. Any chance that we will see them easily available also here in Europe? Can you give me some advice on were to find car and parts(Europe/UK)? Some time ago you posted a topic about you as a future TRF distributor for UK and Eu, am i wrong? If not there is any update about this? :drool: Thanks in advance for your time. Bye WWD :) |
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You've already taken the UK national series with 4 straight wins with the 511 so for the sake of all the people who bought the 502 it would be nice to see you run it for the 2 remaining meetings.. I think it would help us all out with set ups etc.. Thanks:thumbsup: |
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35wt front - blue spring - 1.3 x 2 piston Middle hole on the arm - 2nd out on the tower inside hole on link with 1mm washer - 3mm washer outside. 30wt rear - yellow cut spring (1 coil off) 1.4 x 2 piston Inside hole on arm - 2nd out on tower try meduim wheel base. with regards to the hubs: the more toe in you have - the more rear side bite the car will generate. the less, the looser the rear end. sometimes you can even turn the .5 blocks around so overall you have 2.5 degrees of toe in. this helps the rear end pivot on slow twisty tracks. lee |
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i will not test te 502x until after the worlds. i want to be completely in tune with my 511 with no distractions. afterwards i will test the car again and get some great set ups! |
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time will tell, but i hope so... |
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;) |
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normally i use weights to stop the car grip rolling, settle it through bumps or to stop wheeling..... on dirt i normally run a light car with the weight (apprx 30g) under the rear U plate and in front of gear box, and also a small amount up front. (20-30) to stop wheeling. Lee |
Is it going to be orange?
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Thats up to the japanese im afraid. |
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I don't even run a Tamiya, but :thumbsup: to Mr Martin for putting himself forward to help on here. Good example to other sponsored drivers !
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Aha, an 8th question ;) Basically we have been doing more modifying! We will continue to modify and intensively do so over the winter months. i hope that with some strong results we can release a new car that is a race winner straight out of the box!!! both buggy and truggy! |
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Try running the weight i advised above. also some things i have been going well with lately are: Cutting rear arms 2mm and shortening wheelbase. running plastic rear hubs in middle hole. running inside hole on rear tower. using backward ackerman position using 25 degree caster blocks 79 spur with 24 tooth pinion run yellow springs all round and 35 front 30 rear. 1.3 piston rear and 1.4 front. i hope this helps. 8th - Unsure the best place to buy? maybe just direct from USA? unfortunately i cannot sell anything in europe. :( Lee |
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but for southport...who knows ;) |
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Its just nice to be able to try to help people as much as possible... were not as big, bad and ugly as we may seem ;) maybe you should run Tamiya :p |
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haha!
if only it was that easy ;) |
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Thanks Lee, im on 19/89 already so i`ll give it a whirl :) See you tomorrow. |
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Good luck at The Worlds |
Just want to say good luck Lee at the worlds :)
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Lee,
First of all. Thanks for offering to help us with our setups and general questions.. I don't know of any other sponsored racers who do this on open forums.. Your help is very appreciated. I've been racing Tamiya for several years now. I currently run a 501X and my friend runs a 511X. We have been having trouble with the front arms breaking too often. It mostly happens on off-road tracks with extreme jumps, but has also happened on smoother indoor clay tracks.. I tried to work around the problem by using stiffer springs in the front and slightly heavier oil.. It helped a little, but I know this is not the best way to go.. What do you do to help your car survive extreme jumps without damaging the front arms? To note: I have tried DB-01 arms, stock 501X arms, and the more recent lower profile racing arms. The lower profile arms break the easiest. Unfortunately the thicker DB-01 and 501X arms still break too - but they sure do take more of a beating before they do.. Thanks. |
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I noticed that in some of your setups you run a heavier car (70g under servo + weight under the battery), is that a suggested starting point for higher grip surfaces? Where I run the 201s seem to struggle with: 1) rear grip esp out of corners to line up for the big jumps. I think adding the weight you suggested should help. 2) nose-lifting off the big jumps - in such cases even braking hard doesn't seem to do much to correct the car. I'm just worried if the rear weight will make this problem worse. Any thoughts? Thanks again for your help - and good luck for the Worlds! |
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If your breaking the 501X HD arms then im unsure how you could find anything stronger... maybe after each run just check for cracks in the arms, as they could be cracking without you realizing then breaking on the next run. apart from this, there is not much you can do? continue to run the 501X HD arms and try not to get the big jump wrong and land on one side of the car, try to land flat and level. lee |
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the shorter wheel base and weight will help the rear. weight up front will help jumping. maybe also try a front wing? Lee |
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Your Kampenhout TRF201 set up would be most appreciated!
Car looked dialed :thumbsup: |
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