Liquid mask question
 

I tried some liquid mask a few weeks back but when I tried to cut the design I found the mask was too rubbery and wouldn't score smoothly, almost like trying to cut through a balloon. As this was my first try and I was doing ok with masking tape I went back to it and gave up the LM as a bad job.
2 weeks back I bought a second hand car that came with an unpainted, but LMd shell. I decided to try cutting it and it was a joy, so as I need a new shell for one of my buggies I decided to get my jar out once more and I have followed all the correct advice I think - washed the shell, dried it, applied thin coats and let it dry well between the coats. It now has 4-5 coats on nice and even, been drying for 48hrs since last coat and today I tried to cut it and once more the (new) blade just puckers up the rubber
Have I got dodgy LM ? Are there different grades or am I just not doing something right?
Any help gratefully received

What liquid mask are you using ?

Any chance you could take a picture of the shell liquid masked ?

can you describe more what you mean by it 'puckers' up?
at a guess it sounds like you mean the mask is moving when trying to cut it??
in which case it isn't dry properly or you applied a coat to soon/before the previous coat had dried.

what brand are you using?
Parma and Fascolor both do liquid mask specifically for Polycarbonate bodies.

I have had success with this stuff
http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/...7&Category_Cod

No affiliation with the seller, just using the link as an example

Thanks all for your tips and advice. I will try each in turn, although I'm pretty sure it was dry between coats as it had approx 24hrs in the current heat to do so and 48hrs since the last coat

I was using Valleja LM but have called at PBM on my way into office earlier and picked up some fascolor as advised and I'll remove the existing and start again as it still feels too rubbery

is it a new blade you are using..??

It feels as if I'm dragging a blunt knife accross a soft balloon (if that makes sense). The LM should be dry but feels quite rubbery - as I posted in message above, I will try a different make of LM and see if that makes a difference

Hi mate, I use Jon Millers LM never had any issuses with it (except when I have'nt put enougth on doh) I spray it on , dry it with a hair dryer, repeat for 5 coats, and masking is done and ready to cut in 30 mins.

I don't think Vallejo is designed to be cut, it's a resin rather than latex and is supposed to only be painted over where you want protecting. You will get much better performance with any of the masks designed for body masking.

+for Jon Miller / RCS stuff , I was using Bob Dively stuff previously but once I started using Jons stuff I wouldn't use anything else !

I also spray it on using a touch up car paint gun as it's too thick to go through an airbrush , also hair dry between coats and do 5 coats , then I leave it to dry naturally for at least 24hrs just to make sure

You'll be amazed how little you use if you spray it on rather than brushing or sponging it on too

Then use a new blade & don't press too hard !!

Good luck !

Many thanks everyone. The fascolor LM I bought at PBM is great and though I have had to brush it on, it still went on smoothly and cult easily. Just shows that all LM is not equal, and the comments about the Valleja not to be cut makes sense as it simply won't, even with a new blade.

Now the shell is limited by me rather than the LM

Thanks again